
i%v>" ...-^mmi 



"second, revised and enlarged edition of" 

ANDERSCH BROS. 

Hunters and Trappers 

Guide 

ILLUSTRATING THE 

Fur Bearing Animals 

OF 

North America 

THE SKINS OF WHICH HAVE A MARKET VALUE. 



Describing the Various Animals, Geographical Location, Habits, 
Mode of Living, Propagation, and how to 

Hunt and Trap Them 

WITH REVISED 

Game Laws 

OF ALL THE 

States and Territories in the U. S. 



How to Skin Animals, Manner of Stretching Skins, Trappers' 

Secrets, with Illustrations of Various 

Standard Traps, describes 

Skunk, Mink, Fox and Opossum Farms 

and how and where to raise these animals for profit, number required 

to start with, size of farm, how to breed, 

kind of food, etc. 

By ANDERSCH BROS., - Minneapoi^is, Minn. 



COPYRIGHT 1906 
BY 

ANDERSCH BROS., MINNEAPOLIS, MINN. 

ALL RIGHTS RESERVED 



rUBRARY of CONGRESS 
Two Copies Received 
NOV 19 1906 

K Copyright Entry 
CLASS A XXc/No. 
COPY^B. 





Intttoductory Pncfacc. 

SPACE of three years has now elapsed since the first edition 
of this booic was given to the public; the appreciation of that 
volume is shown by the remarkable demand that bared the shelves 
before the trad^ was really aware of the existence of this pub- 
lic-ation. Scarcely a year had passed before the necessity for a second edition 
or re-print dawned upon the author, who, only after due deliberation, intelli- 
gent inquiry and assurance of co-operation, undertook to improve and enlarge 
the scope of its usefulness by embodying in a comprehensive and thorough 
manner, new secret methods and the experience of hundreds of experts in the 
vocation of hunting and trapping. 

The deep rooted interest in this volume manifested by those associated 
with the occupations of Hunting and Trapping, the public in general and the 
Fur Trade in particular, is greatly appreciated. The nature of the subject will 
lead the reader, as it has the author, over the entire New World, and the 
ecliptic penumbra of our observation is extended northward to the frozen 
seas and southward to the pampas. 

To the willing observer and studen- Natural History, like Astronomy, is 
ever reaching, and when once taken up, the subject is extremely interesting. 
Lower animals play an important part in man's every day life, and we largely 
owe our existence and sustenance to them. They are useful in life and death, 
furnishing us with meat, fat, milk, fur, wool, drugs, and many useful and 
ornamental articles; they carry our burdens and supply us with comfort, pro- 
tection and companionship. 

This work, covering as it does a field not hitherto occupied, embellished 
with artistic and superb illustrations true to nature, all technical and scien- 
tific terms and descriptions eliminated by the use of plain, common language 
throughout, should be acceptable to the people to whom it is particularly 
dedicated. 

The form of this work has necessarily been modified in order to bring 
the whole matter within reasonable compass, as well as to adapt it more per- 
fectly to the wants of hunters and trappers, which it is designed to meet. 
The technical and critical information has been condensed as far as was 
deemed compatible with a book of this nature, but any one desiring know- 
ledge of a distinctively scientific character should peruse the works of Muller, 
Haeckel, Wallace, Owen, Darwin, Von Baer, Cuvier, Brehm, Linneaus, or our 
own Audubon, Bachman, Coues, and other authors. 

We are greatly indebted to the many hunters and trappers, also to some 
of the publishers, for the kindly assistance and courtesies extended, in the 
compilation of this book, and many thanks are accorded them for their 
generous co-operation. 




Origin and Evolution 



OF 



Man, Beast, Weapons and Traps. 



PROF. HAECHEL has satisfactorily traced man in the process 
of evolution through animal and vegetable life to the very 
lowest form of life consisting of a minute cell, and he sup- 
poses that this cell was produced by or from inorganic matter by 
some occult process, technically denominated as spontaneous gen- 
eration. Darwin never withdrew, even in his last work, the sen- 
tence in which he intimated his belief "that life may have been 
originally breathed by the Creator into a few forms or into one." 
He traced man to the humble and unarmored molluscs, called 
Ascideans, whence man's line of ancestry ran through the lower 
vertebrata; thence to the monotrematous mammals, and finally 
to the anthropoid apes. 

In the process of evolution, when animal life was engendered 
from the vegetable, the resultance of some form of copulation, 
the conception of which seems impossible for local realization 
and description. The theological version of Creation and divi- 
sion of life falls asunder, excepting when leaning upon Darwin's 
popular intimation, "that at some remote period life may have 
been breathed into one or more forms by the Creator," but very 
probably the infinite spark of life was inborn in the very exis- 
tence of being. 

Leaving the vegetable and animal transmigrative period and 
skipping a million years, we find the evolutionary epoch has some- 
what specialized the living forms, but man is yet at a great dis- 
tance. Nature, or the natural selection and survival of the fittest 
has conspicuously developed higher and higher species, and fin- 
ally, after an elapse of ages and ages, omitting some detailed 
histological differentiations, we behold the concrete result — man. 
The mind can scarcely perceive the slow progress in the advance- 
ment of man, and the necessary ages required to produce man 
as we are, and as we find him today. 



10 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Animal Instinct '^^^ pregnant crude conception of animal in- 
. 1^ stinct in man as relegated to us from the 

lower forms, seems fair to be exterminated 
in the future progress of evolution. One can perceive the marked 
comparative abatement of these instincts when the highest order 
of man, as represented by the American, English, German and 
French, is compared with the low barbarous and uncivilized tribes. 
This energetic progress and advancement is not only notice- 
able in the human family but also in domestic animals, and the 
influence of the two, coupled with the ever forward evolutionary 
progress, will spread to wild animals, birds, reptiles and fishes, 
and in the ages to come, the will of man in a still higher form, 
will be supreme and alone accountable to nature and the crea- 
tive mind. 

The origin, as well as the destiny of each 
As Man and Beast individual is from nothing to nothing. 
Come They The past is written by historians, the 

Will Qo. future anticipated by scientists, and as 

each generation passes along the path of 
existence, familiarizing and learning by their investigation, they 
each leave behind some useful achievements from which others 
profit. What is true in the human family is reasonably true in 
a milder sense of animals, but notwithstanding the latter's limited 
powers of beneficial conception they, like the human race, learn 
by lessons. A burnt child dreads the fire; so does a trap-nipped 
fox or wolf dread iron or man's contrivance to capture him. 
The animal language, be it a facial expression, action of the 
body, or sounds from the mouth, are all expressive and the mean- 
ing intelligently conveyed. 

The bodies of the first animals were of 
diminutive size and form and that the 
The Lost Species change from plant to animal life took 
^ . . place in some tropical climate seems 

Extermination reasonable; also that ages were required 

of Animals. j^^ ^j^^ climatical distribution of life species, 

especially of terrestrial habitat. The ex- 
istence of the mammoth before the glacial period, and that 
these and other monstrous animals were killed by the cave 
dwellers, is demonstrated by the weapons, remains, and other 
items found in the excavations. Dawkins found engraved 
ivory with the cave men of Pleisteone, in the cave of La Made- 
line. Tools, hunting weapons, dug-outs, traps, spears, snares, 
and remains of bodies indicating extinct species, were found 
in many parts of Europe, Asia, and in America. Thousands 
of species were lost in the glacial period, also in the Bibli- 



Andersch Bros.' Hunter s and Trappers Guide. 11 

cal denudation of Asia, still others became extinct by disease, 

ravages of strong animals, and by confusion of propagation. 

That many species became extinct by being zealously hunted and 

trapped by man cannot be doubted. Even in our day, we grasp 

the passing of the buffalo, the beaver, and the otter, and scores 

of other animals and fishes, and notwithstanding the severe laws, 

the period of total extermination of the above mentioned species 

is not centuries but years. In our own period of evolutionary 

changes, we harbor the true belief of total extermination of the 

American Indian, many species of animals and kinds of plant 

life. On the other hand we see the many herds of cattle, sheep, 

swine, and the human family numerously enlarged and improved. 

We ponder at the many inventions, discoveries, manipulations, 

watch the winters and the summers pass each other, see our 

friends go, hear of distant calamities, note earthy disturbances, 

energetic changes, progress — call it all evolution. 

^ . . , ,., Alan's earliest implement of defense, the 

Origin of Weapons ^ , • . ^ i • i • i 

. _ first assistance to his physical prowess 

3nciir3cs X-' i 

in the chase and in combat, was when he 
stooped, picked up a stone, and hurled it at his adversary. A 
club was the second. The third and fourth in order was the 
spear or the sling. We now pass to the stone age and we find 
the first true implements, the result of man's study and labor, 
the commonest, most widely distributed, was the Imperforate 
axe, of roughly dressed flint, diorite, greenstone, or almost any 
material workable into desired forms and that retained the requi- 
site sharpness of edg;e. Daggers, swords, spear heads, made out 
of bronze came next in order. The bow and arrow is traced 
to the bronze age, but whether its use predominated in an earlier 
period is lost in obscurity. The earliest tools were flaked stones 
and cracked bones, and one can conceive the possible result 
from such tools in the forms of weapons. 

The capture of animals by snares was first introduced in the 
bronze age and the existence of deadfalls at times when Europe 
had a tropical climate is augmented by discoveries made in gla- 
cial deposits. Historians relate that prisoners were set at liberty 
during the early ages for the purpose of capturing wild beasts 
of prey, and upon their return with evidence of success were 
pardoned, but invariably they were devoured by the beasts that 
they set out to kill or capture. Many that were fortunate in this 
pursuit returned to join those that were not, and these men soon 
became the expert hunters and trappers of those days. These 
men killed or captured the wild beasts by running them into 
self constructed dens, dug-outs, enclosures, or waylaid them in 



12 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

paths and killed them with clubs, slings, spears, lances, arrows, 
etc. 

The American Indian, probably greater developed in the trait 
of hunting and trapping, confined himself largely to hunting 
such beasts that gave him food and clothing and such skins as 
were mediums of barter with more distant tribes. The bow and 
arrow, battle axe of simplest form, and spears, predominated, 
but in later years, or in places where game was not plentiful, figure 
four arrangements, dug-outs, pit and deadfalls were resorted 
to. Probably no other tribe or nation were as successful in the 
art of lassoing and snaring large and small animals as the 
American Indian, likewise the original American race as con- 
stituted by the many tribes were more proficient and still greater 
experts with the bow and arrow. 

The use of poison in the destruction of animals is recorded 

by Chinese long before the Biblical version. Poisoned spears 

and arrows were used in warfare long before the Christian era, 

and the American Indian knew the effect of poison hundreds 

of years before Columbus touched our shores. 

.. . _ . Leaving ancient arms, weapons, traps, 

Modern Traps and , ° •. r ti i / i 

^ dug-outs, pitfalls, box traps, bows, spears, 

slings, set arrows, drop-weights, and dis- 
regarding the doubt as to whether gunpowder was used in China 
and India at a remote period and whether the combination of 
potassium nitrate, carbon and sulphur was discovered in the 
1 2th century, we skip this period to study the weapons, traps 
and methods employed by the native Indian and hunters and 
trappers operating in the United States and Canada, during the 
19th and 20th century. The interested reader will now please 
peruse the following pages, first to form a thorough acquaintance 
of the animal by studying the descriptive articles in the fore part 
of this volume, later digesting the modern methods of hunting 
and trapping, and finishing up by reading the hundreds of origi- 
nal articles from experienced hunters and trappers. 




The Fur Bearing Animals 

OF 

North America 

WHOSE SKINS HAVE A MARKET VALUE 



Minutely Describing, Illustrating and Classifying the Various 

Animals, their Characteristics and Habits, Mode of 

Living, Propogation, Food, Geographical 

Location, Etc., Etc. 




THE WEASEL. 

(Ger. Wicscl, Szv. Vessla, Lat. Pntorius Vulgaris.) 

LITTLE carnivorous animal, the smallest 
of the marten or weasel family, is found in 
nearly every state and territory in the 
Union, Audubon says, "also in Alaska." 
What Dr. Coues says of the Putorius er- 
minea, with slight modifications, is also true 
of the weasel : "A creature of thoroughly 
and conspicuous circumpolar distribution, 
extending probably as near the pole as any 
land animal, it is modified, when changed at all, by latitude as ex- 
pressed in the climate to which it is subjected, state of its food 
supply, etc." 

The American weasel resembles the European, but a difiference 
of length in the vertabrae and color of fur on the tip of tail, is 
noticeable, and climatic conditions of Europe, like that of this 
hemisphere, are responsible for the variation in body, size, color, 
etc. 

On this continent we can divide this little courageous animal 
into separate groups, so as to give a closer and more definite de- 
scription of their size, color, habits and respective value of 
their skins from the manufacturer's point of view. 

Pji.g^. The smallest weasel on this continent is chiefly found in 
the southern and middle states, often seen and known 
to inhabit western as well as Atlantic states. It is sometimes con- 
fused with young northern species during the summer months, 



14 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

which it closely resembles, and perhaps occasionally, at least it is 
so claimed by naturalists, seen in northern states as far as New- 
York, Minnesota and Washington. This species is easily dis- 
tinguished from the larger variety by its short tail, smallness of 
body and continued brown, chestnut or chocolate dress, winter 
and summer. The belly portion however, is covered with a strip 
of light colored fur, beginning with extreme end of upper lip, 
continuing along its neck, belly, and ending at the anus, though 
somewhat dividing and terminating systematically at the inner 
portion of the knee. 

The body measures six to seven and one-half inches, rarely 
eight inches, to which a tail varying from two, two and one-hah 
or three inches, must be added. The black furred tip of tail is 
less conspicuous. The animal is equally ferocious, and its small 
size enables it to enter openings apparently not exceeding one 
inch in diameter. 

Second- Probably the best known amongst the weasel is the 
large, brown, chocolate, chestnut colored animal that 
inhabits the middle, northern, eastern and western states. Is 
found sparingly in the southern, states and Canada. 

The body of this species measures ten to fourteen inches from 
nose to root of tail, the latter attaining a length of from four 
to eight and one-half inches, depending upon the maturity of 
the animal. The body is more cylindrical and plump, as compared 
with the first described species. Has an unusually long neck, and 
its tail (of variable length), attains a greater length as compared 
with either of the other two species. The ears are large, high, 
and orbicular. The legs are much stouter and its toes fairly 
covered with long, coarse hair over-lapping the claws. The habits 
of this species, like all others, is terrestrial, arboreal and not aqua- 
tic. 

During the late spring, summer and fall months, the body is 
covered with rather a thin pelage of brown, chocolate or chest- 
nut color with a somewhat lighter colored undergrowth of fur 
fibres. The belly portion, beginning with the under lip is of a 
yellowish cast, and this color extends to the inner portion of the 
legs. Quite often a white strip of fur is noticed extending from 
the lip, neck and chest, and terminating near the anus. At other 
times the under lip is covered with clear white pelage and the belly 
with the aforesaid yellow or whitish fur. The above described 
change in the animal's pelage is especially true of those inhabiting 
the extreme northern parts of the United States. The clear white 
pelage covers the entire bodv, head, limbs and tail, with the 
exception of the extreme pencil-like tip. It should be noted that 
not all the animals change their outer garment from the brown 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 15 

to the white color, especially in the middle section of this country 
where the climatic conditions are not as favorable as compared 
with the animals inhabiting the more northern part of the United 
States. 

i have seen and examined as many as three thousand skins 
in one season that more or less indicated the change from the 
white to the brown and the brown to the white fur, and at inter- 
vals examined hundreds of skins taken from animals during the 
winter months that failed to realize for the owner any remuner- 
ation, due to the predominating brown color, occasionally partly 
colored with intermingled white and brown guard hairs, and semi- 
brown undergrowth of fur fibres. Only such skins having a 
clear white coat of fur, have any commercial value. These are 
sold as ermine skins, at a lower range of prices, though objections 
are plentiful. This species is easily distinguished by the furrier, 
due to its long tail and smallness of body as compared with the 
Siberian ermine. 

On approach of cold weather, (October, November), the outer 
garment gradually changes from brown to the white ermine coat 
of fur, and by December or latter part of November the animal's 
outward appearance resembles that of the ermine. 

. ,. The last species, often called the "American Ermine" 

is found in the northern part of the United States, 

Canada, and Alaska. It resembles the Siberian ermine more 

closely than the other two species above described. (See article 

under Ermine.) 

in- ^ know of no animal that is more courageous 

enera escrip- ^r\-^Q^ size and ferocity is considered, than the 

tion and i t^ i ^r 

weasel. It openly wages war upon many of 

the larger quadrupeds, and by its quickness, 
ferocity and deadly attack, causes dreadful ravages amongst 
them. 

The body is extremely elongated and appears longer on ac- 
count of its neck and head being of same circumference, and its 
ability to stretch its body, especially when seeking to enter small 
crevices of rocks, knot-holes, as well as other openings made 
by such animals as the mouse, rat or squirrel. The legs art 
very short and thin, and the paws extremely tender, being cov- 
elred with a hairy growth, and its toes are the possessors of 
sharp claws which are used to great advantage by the animal 
in climbing. It inhabits plains as well as mountains, and is 
known to roam in the forests where it seeks its principal food 
supply. Even the large muskrat falls prey to the little weasel, 
also moles and rabbits ; is known to enter the chicken coop, 
killing as many as twenty-five birds in one night. It is ex- 



16 And ersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

tremely fond of killing small animals and birds, not only for 
food purposes, but more so for pleasure. It possesses unusual 
courage and seemingly with unlimited daring and boldness, 
affronts large animals ; is known to pounce upon sheep, calves and 
other domestic animals, who rid same off their backs with diffi- 
culty. No small animal possesses immunity from the weasel, 
but in its turn is also hunted and destroyed by the larger species 
of its tribe, such as the mink, marten and other carnivora. 

Its favorite hiold or bite is on the victim's neck, head or throat. 
Not only will the weasel or ermine lay in wait for a possible 
victim, but stealthily follow the tracks and pounce upon the 
victim's back, which, unaware of the danger, succumbs in a rather 
one-sided combat. It pursues birds of all kinds and it is common 
for hunters to disturb the animal while so occupied. 

A certain European writer relates an instance where a large 
bird' of prey captured a weasel, and with it in its talons, rose 
in the air. In a few minutes, however, the bird began to show 
signs of uneasiness, rising rapidly in the air, or as quickly falling, 
and wheeling irregularly around, whilst it was evidently en- 
deavoring to force some obnoxious thing from it with its feet. 
After a short, but sharp contest, the bird fell suddenly to the 
earth, not far from the observer who intently witnessed the 
interesting maneuver, and saw the weasel, apparently unhurt, 
scamper away. Upon examination he found that the weasel 
had severed a large blood vessel, also ate a big hole under the 
bird's wing. 

The animal frequently visits nests located in the loftiest trees, 
in clefts and rocks, in search of eggs, young and old birds. 
Many a mother bird has lost h^r life in protecting her young, and 
often in such battle the weasel, in misjudgment of distance, 
weakness of branch or limb, and at other times due to the savage 
attack of the mother, is hurled to the earth. 

The mother brings forth a litter of four to eight young at 
a time, which are born blind, and generally in a hollow tree or 
log, under a pile of rocks or in some burrow, softly padded with 
hay, dry leaves and similar vegetation. If the young are in danger, 
the mother will carry them off in cat fashion to a place of safety 
and protects them with unusual courage, and if necessary, with 
her life. The mother loves her young dearly, who, like kittens 
are amusing and playful. An instance is recited where the 
mother sacrificed her life in protecting her young in a desperate 
encounter against a dog, who upon the close of the combat was 
bleeding furiously about the lip, head, ears and neck. At the 
age of twelve months the young have generally attained their 
maturity and the life of the animal is from six to ten years. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 17 

One must accede to this animal a wider and more extended 
range of activity against a greater variety of objects ; possessing 
persevering and enduring powers of chase, with a natural love 
of destructiveness, taking more life than is necessary for its 
actual wants. The great cats, who procure their food supply by 
particular mode of attack, their hunger being satisfied, quietly 
wait until again prompted by hunger. This is not so with the 
weasel or ermine. No animal or bird with insufficient strength 
or other powers of self defence, is beyond their ruthless and 
relentless pursuit. This enemy assails them not only on the 
ground, but under it, on trees, and some claim, in the water. 
Swift and sure of foot, keen of scent, he is able to track, run 
down his prey, and make the fatal spring upon them unawares ; 
owing to litheness and slenderness of body he is able to follow 
the smaller animals through the intricacies of their hidden abodes 
and kill them in their homes. It is evident that if he does not kill 
simply in gratification of supreme bloodthirstiness, he at any 
rate deliberately kills more than is necessary for his require- 
ments. His parallel cannot be found among the larger Car- 
nivora. Yet which one of the larger animals will defend itself 
or its young at such hazardous risks? The physiognomy of the 
weasel will suffice to betray its character. The teeth are almost 
of the highest known raptorial character; the jaws are worked 
by enormous masses of muscles covering all the side of the 
skull. The forehead is low, the nose sharp, the eyes small, 
penetrating, cunning and . glitter with an angry, green light. 
There is something peculiar, moreover, in the way that this 
fierce face surmounts a body extraordinarily wiry, lithe, and 
muscular. When the creature is glancing around, with the neck 
stretched up. and flat triangular head bent forward, swaying from 
one side to the other, we catch the likeness in a moment — the 
image of a serpent. 





Andersch Bros.' Huniers and Trappers Guide. 19 

THE NORTH AMERICAN ERMINE. 

(White Weasel. Ger. Hermelin, Suf. Hermelin, Eng. Stoat & 
Ermine, Lot. Putorius Erminea.) 

S STATED elsewhere, this animal resembles 
the Siberian Ermine very closely and there 
is no apparent good reason why the change 
in name from White Weasel to Ermine is 
improper from a commercial and scientific 
standpoint. Dr. Coues, after a thorough ex- 
amination, heralds the change, and in his 
view we fully concur. The only difference 
noticeable is that the body is slightly smaller, 
the fur not as long, neither quite as silky. 
The peculiar sulphur-like yellow color is noticeable in all species 
of the erminea, also the pencil-like formation on tip of tail. 

The animal does change its outer garment periodically but the 
change is not so sudden as certain authors relate. Bell states : 
"The winter change of color which this species so universally as- 
sumes in the northern climates is affected not by loss of the sum- 
mer coat, and the substitution of the new one for the winter, but 
by the actual change of the color of the existing fur." Another 
prominent author states his views in the following words : "The 
transition from the summer to the winter colors, is primarily 
occasioned by actual change of temperature, and not by the mere 
advance of the season." Mr. Blyth, commenting upon the above 
two assertions, has the following to say: "Authors are wrong 
in what they have advanced respecting the mode in which this 
animal changes its color, at least in autumn ; for in a specimen 
which I lately examined, which was killed during the autumnal 
change, it was clearly perceivable that the white hairs were all 
new, not the brown changed in color." 

Close observation of the animal and more so in the handling 
of thousands of skins from animals killed at different periods of 
the year, give one the opinion that the animal changes, rather 
sheds, its coat twice a year. In autumn, September and Novem- 
ber, varying somewhat in the different latitudes, the summer hair, 
gradually, almost imperceptiblv. drops out, and is immediately 
succeeded by a fresh coat, which in the course of ten to twent> 
days becomes white. In the spring months the change in color is 
just the opposite. The change is natural, not only from the out- 
ward appearance, but also from the flesh part of the skin. The 
inner part of the skin, after all flesh and fat is removed and 



20 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

becomes dry, has the natural white and prime color. The skin is 
thin and clear, not so when the skin is removed from the animal 
during its shedding period in the spring, at which period the 
outer portion of the skin is black and unprime. At this period the 
new fur fibers are still perceptible and the old guard or outer 
hairs are loose in their respective cells. Subsequently the change 
in color of this animal's fur comes in periods when other ani- 
mals shed their outer garment to a greater or less extent. 

The male is invariably larger than the female. Both are pro- 
vided with glands from which the animal when under the influ- 
ence of fear, anger or sexual passion, emits a peculiar fluid of 
a highly penetrating, offensive and horrible odor. In color the 
fluid is yellow, and it is believed that this fluid is responsible for 
the yellowish, sulphur-like color of the pelt. Others again state 
positively that this peculiar color on the fur is the result of the 
animal's unclean habits, abode, and continued contact with their 
own or the mate's water. The fluid containers or glands are 
situated one on each side of the anus just upon the verge of the 
opening. On the animal slightly averting the anus, these papillae 
may be readily perceived. Slight pressure will cause them to 
stand erect, and at the animal's pleasure may squirt and distri- 
bute its fluid in a firm spray at a variable distance not exceeding 
two feet. At other times the fluid trickles in drops or in a stream 
about its parts. 

The average measurement of skins received from Canada and 
northern part of United States indicate that the body of the 
largest animal is 15 inches in length and the yearlings about 8 
to 9 inches. Many skins are received indicating that they were 
taken off from kittens measuring 5 to 6 inches in length and ^ 
to I inch in width. The large skins usually measure 13 to 15 
inches long, 2jf^ to 35^ wide. The length of tail, varying some- 
what, is usually 2 to 4 inches. Once in a great while a clear 
white skin with a longer tail, is received, but presumably this 
is an exception, and possibly the animal emigrated from a more 
southern latitude. A large number of brown skins (summer) 
from the same region received during the late spring and summer 
months, are practically of the same size and dimensions. See 
illustrations of skins elsewhere in this volume, also article "Trap- 
ping and Preparing Skins." 

This animal as well as the weasel, shows no sign of becoming 
exterminated. Higher prices for their pelts has a tendency to 
increase the activity on the part of the hunter and trapper in 
pursuing same, as will be seen in the table of number of skins 
marketed in thio country and London. In former years the 
ermine fur was controlled by royalty, and certain penalties by 



• Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 21 

law were attached to outside persons wearing garments made 
from these skins, but of late years, owing to the large number 
marketed, and from other causes, the skins are used for various 
purposes and by all classes of people, not only in Europe, but 
also in the United States and Canada. 

The price of the skins varies considerably, depending upon the 
demand and supply. The skins of the European ermine ranges 
from 50c to $2.50 while that of the American species 
including the white northern weasel, very seldom exceeds $1.00 
and in most cases 25 to 75 cents being paid the trapper. The 
last two years however, are an exception, and the ruling price 
for good skins ranged from 75 cents to $1.25, one American 
concern alone marketing in London 60,000 skins. 

The skins are used for various purposes, principally for ladies' 
wearing apparel, on royal clothes and garments, at other times in 
connection with other furs, principally with krimmer, Persian 
lamb, seal, etc. The yellowish, sulphur-like parts are used in 
conjunction with the black pencil-like tip of the tail. Manu- 
facturers dislike the sulphur-like color on the skins ; such skins 
are commercially called "stained" and bring a less price than 
those that are clear white. (For mode of propagation and habits, 
see article under Weasel.) 




Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 23 

THE MINK. 

(Ger. Ncrts, Lat. Putorius (Lutreola) vison.) 

T IS not commonly known that mink and skunk 
are now the greatest producers of revenue to the 
American hunter and trapper; the reader can 
judge for himself, especially after perusing the 
table on a subsequent page, which gives the num- 
ber of skins marketed in a given period. 

The mink belongs to the weasel family and is 
found in North America, Europe and Asia. 
Naturalists divide the North American mink into two, sometimes 
into three, separate species, 'but I believe that there is no good 
occasion to make such division. If same is desirable from a de- 
scriptive and scientific point of view there can easily be made as 
many as two or three divisions of animals in a single state, and 
probably twenty or thirty in the entire northern hemisphere. The 
fur trade has its own division, for instance : Southern, South- 
western, Central, Eastern, Northern, Fish, Prairie, Cotton and 
the fine Northeastern and Canadian. 
jj . .. This animal differs notably from the weasel or 
ermine in its larger size, much stouter form, and 
lasting color of its pelage. It resembles the marten, also the wild 
ferret. The ears are short, well rounded, furred both sides, and 
the adjacent fur covers members in certain altitudes. The head 
is small, rather low and fiat, sub-triangular, with a rather well 
rounded otter like mouth. The lower portion of its mouth is 
small. The extremity of the snout is protuberant and definitely 
naked. 

Its legs are stout, short, and well proportioned. The front 
legs measure i^ to 2]/^ inches in length, the rear ones always 
exceeding the front by J/2 to ^ inches. Each of the four feet have 
five rather long toes, which are armed with short, crooked claws. 
The legs and feet, excepting the pads, are covered with fur. The 
claws are retractable at will by the animal. The body is long, 
slender, and with its slender neck has a general vermiform ap- 
pearance, and measures from nose to root of tail 12 to 26 inches 
in length, to which a tail of 6 to 9 inches is to be added. The 
above variation in size is further explained elsewhere. The 
male always exceeds the female by J4 to 1-3 its size. 

Its pelage varies extensively in color, length, quality, and 
density, according to the section the animal inhabits, but the 
fundamental color is brown. The further south one goes, the 
coat of the animal becomes paler, while just the opposite is true 



24 A ndersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

in the northern latitudes. The tail is always a few shades darker 
than tlie fur on the body and invariably is this also true of the 
animal's back as compared with the fur on its belly. A white 
spot is common on the animal's breast, other times this spot 
appears only on the lower lip. Once in a while a mink will have 
a few white hairs on the extreme tip of its tail, otherwise the 
color of its pelage is fairly uniform. 

The outer garment consists of two distinct sets of fibers, the 
inner or undergrowth of fur fibers proper, and the outer or guard 
hairs. The former are soft, silky, downy, adhering very closely 
together, and in color are usually lighter than the predominating 
guard hairs. While the former are ^ to 3/2 inch long, the latter 
always protrude ^ to ^ of an inch above the undergrowth, 
consequently ^ to i}i inches long. The guard hairs are coarse, 
smooth, glossy, rather pointed and well distributed all over the 
body, becoming shorter about the head and feet and longer at 
the tail ; on the latter the hairs are inclined to stand out horizon- 
tally, giving it a bushy appearance. 

These are found in all parts of the southern states. 

" r*" The animal attains a size of 16 to 18 inches with a 

'" ■ tail 6 to 8 inches in length. Its fur is rather coarse, 

especially is this true of the lower growth. The guard hairs 

are also coarse and comparatively pale and void of lustre. 

Are found in these states along rivers, creeks 

1^. . and lakes. Are about the same in size as the 

more southern species, but are better furred, 

more robust, and their skins always command a better price from 

the dealer and furrier. The fur is more dense and of better color 

and larger individual specimens are also noticeable. 

The animal that inhabits Maine, New Bruns- 
°'^^^^®'^" wick, parts of Quebec and that particular sec- 
tion, is comparatively small. The body is 10 to 
14 inches, with a tail 5 to 6 inches long. The fur during the latter 
part of December and January is extremely beautiful. The rarest, 
best and highest priced skins come from that section, especially 
when its small size is considered. The fur is soft, silky, not so 
deep or long, but very dark, rather of the wavy and changeable 
color type. 
p . . As the name indicates, the animal is found chiefly in 
„. . prairie sections, about streams or in light growth of 
timber. He becomes very large in northern states, 
notably so in Dakota and Manitoba. While the ordinary size of the 
prairie mink, especially those inhabiting the open sections of 
the middle west, and west, is from 22 to 30 inches, the writer 
has seen minks and their skins measuring 32 to 36 inches from 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 25 

nose to root of tail, and with the latter a total of 43 inches over 
all. The animal and skin, while extraordinarily long, were othei- 
wise well proportioned. The former in a natural position at 
middle of body measured 12 to 12J.4 inches in circumference and 
3/^ to 4 inches in diameter, the skin averaging in width from 
shoulder to rear portion, 4^/2 to 5 inches. The pelage of this 
species is somewhat coarse, but of fair color and very suitable for 
coat collars, cufifs, etc. Under no circumstances must the pelage of 
the prairie mink be compared with southern coarse mink, as these 
northern skins are worth twice to three times as much. The 
female is much smaller than the male, and has a more valued 
coat, being finer in texture and darker in color, 

_. These attain an average size, are more aquatic, live in 
... . and about water more than other species and their food 
consists chiefly of fish. The fur is more evenly distrib- 
uted, the outer guard hairs protrude less over the fur fibres or 
lower growth, as is the case with the other species. In general the 
fur is more sleek, top hairs shorter and all are of more uniform 
color, in this respect resembling a lot of dark, brown, glazed coffee 
beans. The odor of the animal is constantly that of fish and 
seemingly this odor remains in the skin for a long time. 
- . It is claimed that the white underground species is 

Mink, rather more of a freak of nature than a distinct species, 
and that this growth is quite unnatural, sometimes 
caused by sickness, other times by confinement. Some naturalists 
seem to think that this peculiar color crops out at intervals, and 
for explanation go back generations when it was claimed that 
there were no mink, but ermine, and that in the ages of evolution 
as explained by Darwin, such are the reminders of the changes 
that were brought about in the natural course of evolution. Such 
minks are found sparingly in the central, western and middle 
states. Apparently the theory that this species is more of a freak, 
must give room for additional thought, as hundreds and thous- 
ands of skins are annually marketed showing these particular 
characteristics. The general construction of its body, size, habits, 
etc., resembles the other minks. It does not breed separately, 
but in connection with the regular species, thus indicating har- 
mony amongst them. The outer garment is practically the same 
as on other species, and the only difference noticeable is that 
instead of having brown or dark colored fur fibres, its under- 
growth of fur resembles cotton, being clear white. Occasionally 
this white cotton like growth is noticeable only on sections of the 
skin, particularly on the top of the animal extending 4 to 6 inches 
from the root of its tail, other parts having the normal color. 
On account of the animal resembling the other very closely, 



26 Andersch Bros.* Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

hundreds of trappers are annually disappointed, being obliged 
to accept a lesser price for such skins ; many unexperienced buy- 
ers purchase these skins without knowing the difference until 
they come to sell them. The easiest way to detect these cotton 
or white underground mink, is by blowing into the fur at various 
places, especially just beyond the tail. Such skins cannot be used 
advantageously in their natural condition and are either dyed 
or blended. 

The mink is very active, light of foot, carnivorous, 
and its essential aquatic nature leads it to seek in 
general well-watered sections ; will scarcely ever be found far 
away from water except it be caught during the journey it makes 
from one stream or lake to another. Its amphibious mode of life 
is well known to all hunters, trappers and those that come in 
contact with this carnivora. His movement on land lacks some7 
thing of the extraordinary agility displayed by the more slender 
bodied weasel. It habitually prowls about stone piles, frequents 
underground retreats, and is altogether a more openly aggressive 
marauder, not less persistent or courageous in its attack. In 
swimming most of its body is submerged and in smooth water 
its coming and going is almost imperceptible. Its ability to climb 
trees is unquestioned ; it scarcely frequents them but will take to 
the tree if it thinks its capture can be averted. 

Its keen sense of smell enables it to track and trace other 
animals, consequently is less concerned for a fresh supply of food 
than most other animals. Its principal food is fish, frogs, rep- 
tiles, muskrats, mice, and rats ; birds and fowls of all kinds are 
relished. Much to the detriment of the farmer, it frequents 
the hen roost, but in this respect it is not as much an unnecessary 
slayer as the weasel or ermine, though instances are recorded 
where as many as forty chickens were killed by a single mink 
in one night. Its ability to gain entrance through openings of 
1 5^ to 2 inches in diameter, is well noted, and in the event that 
the opening is too small, it can increase it in a remarkably short 
time. The male and the female can at their pleasure, emit from 
their respective glands a horrible smelling odor. For further 
description of this fluid and manner of discharge, see article under 
Weasel. 

The rutting season usually begins in latter part of February or 
first part of March. At this time the male wanders carelessly 
along the shore of streams and lakes, having in mind only the 
search for the female. Apparently the male is on foot day and 
night and during this period is more easily trapped. The female 
is scarcely seen at this time being in some abode, obviously to 
keep away from the male as much as possible. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 27 

During the month of April, or early part of May, the mother 
brings forth a litter of four to six young, which are carefully 
hidden in some hollow log, burrow or cave. The mother con- 
tinues with her young until they are about half-grown, and 
pays particular attention to keeping them away from the male, 
who, if opportunity presents, will kill its offspring. The animal 
attains its maturity in one year, the female arriving at age of 
puberty at the end of this period. The young are born blind and 
remain so for four or five weeks. 

Mink can be tamed if taken young, especially before they have 
their sight. It is unwise to attempt to tame the animal after the 
age of three to six months, and especially if he or she is of a 
vicious disposition. If taken young, by continued petting and 
handling, they become like domesticated ratters and have all the 
playfulness of young kittens. At a later period they become ex- 
tremely mischievous as their keen scent leads them to pantries, 
hen houses, dovecotes, and a canary bird in a room is very 
annoying to them. The animal's extensive power with the mouth 
can hardly be estimated unless one has seen the animal in a trap, 
cage, box or other place of captivity. When wild minks are con- 
fined with tame ones, the latter always prove stronger and come 
off victorious in the contest that ensues. 





'O'd 



a V 



*^ 



p. m 

E ° 




Andersch Bros/ H unters and Trappers Guide. 29 

THE MARTEN. 

(Ger. Harder, Lat. Mustela Americana.) 

MONGST the fur bearing animals of the weasel 
kind, the marten with its various species, is most 
important, especially since their skins command 
high prices and ready sale. In all zoological 
works the martens oscillate with the sable. The 
latter, however, is simply a large marten found 
in higher latitudes. 

The Beach, or Stone marten, which inhabits 
Europe, is distinguished from the Pine marten 
by its pure and large, white furred throat, also by 
its other external features and size. 
The Pine marten of Europe resembles the American marten, 
but in that country like in the New World, marked contrast and 
difference between animals from one, to that of another section, 
occur. Thus the marten from Scandinavia differs in size and 
color, but not in habits, from that found in Germany, Austria, 
Spain and Italy. The former is large in stature, its pelage is 
finer, darker, denser, and in general, longer. 

The sable, or Asiatic species, as the name implies, is found 
in Russia and northerly portions of islands belonging to Japan; 
also equally large and similar furred animals are found in the 
extreme portions of North America, but these receive a sectional 
name and are commercially known as Hudson Bay sable. The 
fur of the sable as compared with the marten, has a mellow char- 
acter, is darker, longer, finer in texture, the skin larger and more 
beautiful and for that reason commands a much higher price. 

The Russian sable measures in body 20 to 24 inches from 
nose to root of tail and the latter from body to extreme tip, 10 
to 12 inches. Some individual hairs on the tail are 3 to 4 inches 
long. The latter are very glossy, dark brown or black and 
invariably three to four shades darker than the fur on the body. 

The American marten in respect to size, resembles the Euro- 
pean Pine marten. The animal inhabits the northerly Atlantic, as 
well as the Pacific states, is found in mountainous regions, prin- 
cipally in forests, in the latitudes extending from Maine to Ore- 
gon, although its existence in the middle states as far south as 
Pennsylvania and Ohio, Colorado and Wyoming, is, and has been 
established ; but of late years most of the skins have been received 
from Canada where the animal is still plentiful. Beautiful, as well 
as high-priced skins are received from Maine, Lake Superior, re- 
gion around Lake of the Woods, Northern Minnesota, Michigan, 



30 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Wisconsin, and notably from the St. Lawrence River and Hudson 
Bay region, also along the Canadian Pacific Railway from Selkirk 
to Port Arthur. 

The color of the skins from Montana, Washington, Wyom- 
ing, Oregon, and extending along the Pacific coast, up to Alaska, 
excluding the extreme northern or inland portions, are generally 
of a canary or light brown, intermingled with steel-like colored 
hairs. Similar colored skins are also received from different 
sections, which are all dyed to imitate the darker kinds, but in 
this state are readily distinguished by the manufacturer who fails 
to pay the same price he would for the beautiful natural colored 
skins. 

The color of the American marten during the winter months is 
almost indescribable, due to the endless diversities occasioned 
by age, sex, season and climatic conditions. Its fur is long, ex- 
tremely soft and full. It can be divided into three kind of fibres ; 
the first is very short, fine, soft and downy ; the second about the 
same, but in addition wavy, ^ to j^ inch longer, and becomes 
noticeable from the outside ; the third represents the long, beauti- 
ful outer or guard hairs. These are fully twice as long as those 
on the mink. The predominating color of fur ranges from a 
light canary, orange, light brown, dark brown, dark and almost 
black, excepting the fur on the throat, which is rather yellowish 
or clear white. The legs are short and covered with black fur. 
The tail seems bushy and that member is very valuable in the 
fur trade. 

J. . . The American marten, like the sable has carnivorous 
and arboreal habits ; its home is in the forests, scarcely 
ever found in open sections and being of a sly and suspicous 
naturei it is one of the first to disappear, amongst the smaller 
animals, with the advance of civilization entering its woody 
resorts. Mr. Ross has recorded a remarkable fact of the animal's 
periodical disappearance. "It occurs in decades or thereabouts 
with regularity, and it is quite uncommon what becomes 
of them. They are not found dead. The failure extends througb- 
out the Hudson Bay section at the same time, and there is no 
tract or region to which they migrate where we have not posts, 
or into which our hunters have not penetrated." 

Making its home away from civilization, it is not guilty of 
invading the farmyard, but otherwise is very active, industrious, 
cunning and predaceous, and finds its subsistance in the weaker 
rodents, mice, moles, insects, squirrels, frogs, birds and fish. If 
forced by burger will eat nuts and berries. 

Its odor is mild as compared with the musk of the mink or 
ermine. It rarely kills after its hunger is appeased, nor does 




Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 31 

a blind ferocity lead 't to attack animals larger than itself. 

The mother brings forth a litter of three, seldom exceeding 
six, young, which she nourishes for some time, and Steller says 
that the mother will readily protect them from the male by carry- 
ing them out of danger in her mouth cat-fashion, usually to 
some crevice or hole in the bank of a hill, the opening of which 
she closes with her body and presents the intruder with a fero- 
cious look. 

THE FISHER. 

(Pennants, Marten, Pekan, Lat. Mustcla Pennants.) 

■|-i^^^^ FISHER is strictly a North American animal, 
ll\^Hi ^"^ naturalists claim that he forms the connect- 
iLkjSi^HL^ ing link between the IMustela and Gula. He is 
rated as belonging to the weasel family, of which, 
with the exception of the wolverene, he is the 
largest and strongest of the entire species. The 
scarcity of the animal can be noted by reviewing 
the table found elsewhere in this volume. They 
are chiefly found in Canadian timber sections, are 
very scarce in the heavily timbered sections of the northern states. 
A few skins are annually received from the timbered sections 
of Washington, Oregon, Montana, Minnesota, Wisconsin and 
Michigan, but as above noted, the animal is chiefly found in 
Canada. It weighs from 12 to 16 pounds. 

In his habits he resembles the marten, being arboreal, car- 
nivorous, and occasionally seen in the early morning or later in 
the afternoon, preying after small animals, but as a rule the fisher 
possesses nocturnal habits. He is known to rob traps of their 
victims, and is occasionally nipped himself. They are scarcely 
ever seen in open sections, but like the marten live in forests and 
away from civilization. 

The specimens before us now indicate that the animal meas- 
ures 24 to 30 inches from tip of nose to root of tail, the latter 
measuring 14 to 19 inches, the tail in the largest specimen 
measuring 16^ ' inches, in the smallest 13J4 inches. Its black 
furred legs are stout and on the largest specimen 4 to 5 inches 
long. 

In color the pelage varies unusually much, and each individual 
skin viewed, indicates a variation from light steel grey on the 
head and fore part of the body, terminating and blending into 
a rich brown, nicely topped with long black guard hairs. The 



32 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



long slender tail is considerably darker furred. The undergrowth 
or fur fibres are shorter by }i to ^ of an inch, as compared with 
the top guard hairs, which are much coarser but gradually become 
more pointed at the tip. The nature of the fur is mellow and 
soft, and furriers say that it works up handsomely. 




I,ate Fall Scene 
Elastern Canada 



THE FISHER 



From Original Painting. 

Property of 

Andersch Bros. 



The following account from B. R. Ross, covering his exper- 
ience in the Mackenzie River region (Canada), is interesting: 
"In this district it (the fisher) is not found except in the 
vicinity of Fort Resolution, which may be considered as its 
northern limit. In the numerous deltas of the mouth of the Slave 



Andersck Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 33 

River it is abun-lant, frequenting the large grassy marshes or 
prairies, for the purpose of catching mice, its principal food. In 
appearance it bejirs a strong family likeness to both the marten 
and the wolverene. Its general shape assimilates more to the 
former, but the head and ears have a greater similitude to those 
of the latter. It is named by the Chippewayan Indians *Tha cho' 
or great marten. Its legs and feet are stouter in proportion than 
those of the marten, and its claws much stronger. In color and 
size it varies greatly. Young, full-furred specimens, or those 
born the previous spring, can scarcely be distinguished from a 
large marten except by a darker pelage and a less full, more 
pointed tail. As it advances toward old age, the color of the 
fur grows lighter, the long hairs become coarser, and the grayish 
markings are of greater extent and more conspicuous. 

"The largest fisher which I have seen was killed by myself on 
the Rivier de Argent, one of the channels of the mouth of 
the Slave River, about 15 miles from Fort Resolution. It was 
fully as long as a Fulvus fox, much more muscular, and weighed 
18 pounds. In the color of its fur the greyish tints predominated, 
extending from half way down the back to the nose. The fur 
was comparatively coarse; though thick and full. The tail was 
long and pointed, and the whole shade of the pelage was very 
light and had rather a faded look. Its claws were very strong 
and of brown color; and as if to mark its extreme old age the 
teeth were a good deal worn and very much decayed. I caught 
it with difficulty. For about two weeks it had been infesting my 
marten road, tearing down the traps and devouring the bait. So 
I resolved to destroy it. I made a strong wooden trap. It climbed 
up this, entered from above, and ate the meat. A gun was next 
set with no better success, it cut the line and run oflf with the 
bone that was tied to the end of it. As a 'dernier resort' I put 
a steel trap in the middle of the road, covered it carefully, and 
set a bait at some distance on each side. Into this it tumbled. 
From the size of its footprints my impression all along was that 
it was a small wolverine that was annoying me, and I was sur- 
prised to find it to be a fisher. It showed good fight, hissed 
at me much like an enraged cat, biting at the iron trap, and 
snapping at my legs. A blow on the nose turned it over, when 
I completed its death by compressing the heart with my foot 
until it ceased to beat. The skin when stretched for drying was 
fully as large as a middle-sized otter, and very strong, in this 
respect resembling that of wolverene. 

"In their habits the fishers resemble the martens. Their food is 
much the same, but they do not seem to keep so generally in 
the woods. They are not so nocturnal in their wanderings as the 



34 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

foxes. An old fisher is nearly as great an infliction to a marten 
trapper as a wolverene. It is an exceedingly powerful animal for 
its size, and will tear down the wooden traps with ease. Its 
regularity in visiting them is exemplary. In one quality however 
it is superior to the wolverene, which is that it leaves the sticks 
of the traps where they were planted ; while the other beast if 
it can discover nothing better to hide, will cache them some 
distance ofif. It prefers meat to fish, is not very cunning, and is 
caught without difficulty in the steel trap." 

Habits ^^^ habits, as will be noticed, are arboreal, carnivorous 
and nocturnal. It is liberally claimed that the animal, 
as its name implies, is an expert fisher, but this is again forcibly 
contradicted. One trapper claims that the fisher will crouch down 
with head slightly in the water and lie in wait for the swift 
pickerel or trout three to five hours at a time, seemingly without 
moving a muscle. Its favorite position as claimed by this trapper, 
is on a fallen log across a brook or stream on a bank where the 
water is shaded by willows. Nevertheless all agree that one of 
his principal articles of diet is fish, notably the speckled Mountain 
trout. 

The breeding season is in the early spring, and the female 
brings forth a litter of 3 to 5 young, which are kept away from 
the male until they are able to defend themselves and live upon 
their own resources. Strange to say the father will kill his off- 
spring and for that reason the mother takes the young to some 
isolated place and protects them against all foes, and readily risks 
her life to protect the young from all intruders. 





Andersch B ros.' Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 35 

THE WOLVERENE. 

(Ger. Vielfrass, Fr. Glouton, Eng. Ghitton, Lat. Gulo lusciis.) 

HIS carnivorous animal, the clumsiest of the 
marten or weasel species, is known under various 
names, and its nomenclature may be interesting 
as well as amusing to the average hunter and 
trapper : Latin — Gulo antiquorum, Murtela 
rufo-fusca, Medio dorsi nigro, Murtela gulo, 
Ursus gulo, Meles gulo, Taxus gulo, Gulo si- 
bircus, Gulo arcticus, Gulo volgaris, Gulo Cu- 
curis ; Russian — Rossamaka, Rossamack, Roso- 
mak ; German — Vielfrass, Vielfras ; Dutch — 
Veelvraat ; French — Goulon, Glouton ; English — 
Glutton ; Norwegian — Jerf, Jerv, Filfras ; Swedish — Jarf, Jerf , 
Filfrass; Laplander — Gieddk; American and Canadian — Wolver- 
ene, Carcajou; Indian — Okeeroohawgew, Okeecockwgees, Ouee- 
quehatch. 

It inhabits the whole of British possessions in North America, 
is sparingly found in the United States, but has been known and 
still exists in some of the Northern States from the Atlantic to the 
Pacific Coast, especially in the regions of the Rocky Mountains. 
Has formerly been seen and was captured in Maine, Masschu- 
setts, very recently in Michigan, Wisconsin and Minnesota, and 
in the Rocky Mountain regions of Wyoming and Montana ; and 
specimens are still in existence showing that it inhabited to a 
greater or less extent the states of Utah and Colorado. Very few 
skins are now received from the northern states and the supply 
principally comes from Canada. The European species, which is 
still in existence, resembles that of the American to a great ex- 
tent. 

The wolverene is a night prowler and makes his home in bur- 
rows, hollow logs and crevices of rocks ; often he partakes of sleep 
in dens of foxes as well as former dens of wolves, and, in fact, 
seeks rest and sleep wherever it may be found. 

Its principal food is mice, rabbits, mink, marten and similar 
animals. It follows the wolf and the fox in the hope of obtain- 
ing a portion of their prey. Is known to climb low-limbed trees 
from which it pounces upon its prey, and succeeds in a remark- 
ably short time in subduing its victims. It then proceeds to de- 
vour the body, and what it cannot consume is carried away and 
hidden below the surface of the ground or snow. It is particularly 



36 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



known to follow lines of traps for many miles, partaking of the 
bait and victim, and even if unable to devour the food so found, 
it will delight to break into the traps or spring them as the case 
may be. 

The wolverene is very seldom captured ; is known to enter the 




Eastern Canada 
Full Furred. 



THE WOLVERENE 



From Original Painting:" 
Property of Andersch Bros. 



huts of the Laplander and to carry away frying pans, ammunition 
and similar articles, which it buries, and in consequence thereof 
is a dreaded animal, being detested by the hunter and trapper as 
well as the inhabitants of the extreme north. Is known to prey 
upon beaver and otter. Historians greatly exaggerate the con- 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 37 

sumption of food as well as the tricks and mischief which are 
laid at its door. 

The following story from Mr. Lockhart may be very interest- 
ing: — "The winter I passed at Fort Simpson," writes Mr. Lock- 
hart, "I had a line of marten and fox traps, and lynx snares, ex- 
tending as far as Lac de Brochet. Visiting them on one occa- 
sion I found a lynx alive in one of my snares ; and being indis- 
posed to carry it so far home, determined to kill and skin it be- 
fore it should freeze. But how to cache the skin until my re- 
turn? This was a serious question, for carcajou were numer- 
ous. Placing the carcass as a decoy in a clump of willows at one 
side of the path, I went some distance on the opposite, dug a hole 
with my snow shoe about three feet deep in the snow, packing the 
snow hard down after packing the skin in the smallest compass 
and putting it in the bottom of the hole which I filled up again 
very carefully, and then strewing loose snow over the surface till 
the spot looked as if it had never been disturbed. I also strewed 
blood and entrails in the path and around the willows. Return- 
ing next morning I found that the carcass was gone, as I ex- 
pected, but that the place where the skin was cached was appar- 
ently undisturbed. 'Ah, you rascal,' said I, addressing aloud the 
absent carcajou, 'I have outwitted you for once.' I lighted my 
pipe and proceeded leisurely to dig up the skin to place in my 
muskimoot. I went clear down to the ground, on this side and on 
that, but no lynx skin was there. The carcajou had been before 
me, and had carried it off along with the carcass ; but he had taken 
the pains to fill up the hole again and make everything as smooth 
as before." 

Mr. Lockhart also relates that the wolverene habitually sits on 
his haunches and shades his eyes with one of his fore paws, just 
as a human being would do in scrutinizing a dim or distant ob- 
ject. On one occasion he was drifting down stream in a canoe, 
and came within a short distance of one of the animals on the 
bank ; it stopped on perceiving him, sqiiatted on its haunches, 
and peered earnestly at the advancing boat, holding one fore paw 
over its eyes in the manner above described. Not seeming to take 
alarm, it proceeded on a few paces, and then stopped to repeat 
the performance, when Mr. Lockhart, now sufficiently near, fired 
and killed the beast. 

At times the wolverene displays more boldness than this in tha 
presence of man. It has been known to seize upon the carcass of 
a deer, and suffer itself to be shot rather than relinquish posses- 
sion, though the hunter had approached within twenty yards 
of his game. When pressed by the pangs of hunger, still bolder 



38 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

exploits are sometimes performed, as in the instance narrated by 
Capt, J. C. Ross. In the dead of an Arctic winter, his ship's com- 
pany were surprised by a visit from a wolverene, which clam- 
bered over the snow wall surrounding the vessel, and came boldly 
on deck among the men. Forgetful of its safety in the extrem- 
ity of its need for food, the animal seized a canister of meat, 
and suffered himself to be noosed while eating. 

The animal is of great strength, but lacks activity of body, 
being heavily and clumsily supported on thick-set, rather low legs 
and rests upon large feet. The animal resembles that of a small 
bear. The palms and soles are generally furred, but the digits 
are naked. The back is high and arched, the figure in general, 
drooping both before and behind, the head and tail being carried 
low while in locomotion, similar to a bear. The head is broad 
and rounded on every side, with a rather short, stubby nose, low 
ears, and eyes sunk rather deeply into the skull. 

On the body the fur is of a blackish, deep dusky brown color. 
The length of the fibers beginning at the extremities where they 
are very short, gradually increase to 35^ to 4 inches on the sides 
and hips, thus giving the well-known shaggy appearance of the 
animal. There is a light grey patch between the ears and eyes 
which is extended from the shoulders on both sides and forms 
the ruff or shaggy aspect heretofore noted. The two broad 
bands on the animal's sides are occasioned by the variation in 
color, being of a chestnut or yellowish brown, or even fading 
to a dingy brownish white, starting at the shoulders and run- 
ning along the sides and turning up, meeting its fellow on the 
rump near the base of the tail and forming a rather indistinct 
lyre-like connection. The claws are sharp, strong, much curved, 
and about an inch long. The tail resembles more that of the 
badger, excepting that it is twice as long ; the hairs on this member 
are from five to seven inches long, rather coarse, and the entire 
member is of a brushy instead of a plume-like appearance. 

The fur is used for various purposes and owing to its scar- 
city brings fairly high prices, but the principal use is for robe or 
mat purposes. The total number of skins annually collected and 
marketed rarely exceed 3,000, one-half of which are marketed 
by the Hudson Bay Company, at London. The price varies con- 
siderably as the darker skins bring much better prices, generally 
from $3.00 to $10.00. 





Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 39 



THE SKUNK. 



ARLY historians, naturalists and travelers, 
pointed to the American skunk as the most 
detested animal on the face of the globe, and 
many are even to this day so deeply impressed 
with the distant horrible experiences that he 
or she will refuse to wear a manufactured 
garment made out of skunk skins, and the manufacturer is obliged 
to call the skins from which the garment is made "Black Mar- 
ten." Thirty and forty years ago the animal was detested by 
the hunter, trapper and farmer, and it is surprising to 
note the change in conditions, due largely to the enlighten- 
ment of the rural population as to the benefits of the skunk, also 
to the rapid increase and value of their pelts. Many skunk farms 
are in existence, the owners making a business of raising these 
animals for their pelts. While this may be a queer business, 
nevertheless it is perfectly legitimate, and as far as known, profit- 
able. A ready sale of the pelt is to be had, and the skins from 
these domesticated animals generally bring higher average prices, 
being well handled and killed at a time when the fur is at its best. 
The skunk is by no means confined to North America, as the 
animal is also found in southeastern Europe, South America and 
in Africa. In these countries he is known under Stinktiere, Su- 
rilho. Cape Zorillo, in fact his nomenclature covers a wide range 
and is still greater confused by naturalists disagreeing on certain 
species. Mr. Gabriel Sagard-Theodat, the prominent French 
writer, in his history of Canada, (1636), designates the animal 
"enfan du diable" which apparently was the recognized Canadian 
French name for this animal; others mention the "devil's own 
beast." The Cree Indian knew the animal under Seecawk. Some- 
times he is erroneously called polecat, fitch and chinche. He 
belongs to the weasel or marten family. 

The skunk is found in nearly all the states and territories of 
the Union and climatic and geographical conditions are respon- 
sible for the great variation in size and color of its pelage. There 
are very few fur-bearing animals as plentiful, and especially so in 
the civilized sections, that bring such a handsome income to the 
trapper as does the skunk. As noted, the chief difference in char- 
acter, besides the size of the animal itself, lies in the color of its 
fur, and the animal from the outward appearance is closely de- 
scribed in the following pages. 

The body is 16 to 22 inches long, its tail from root to farthest 




Mounted 
Male 



THE SKUNK 



Icwa 
Matured 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 41 

point of fur, 12 to 16 inches, the latter being covered with hair, 
the color of which varies, depending upon the color of the fur on 
the body. For instance, the fur on the tail of a black or shori 
striped skunk is black or nearly all black, while that of the broad 
or narrow striped skunk is interspersed with black and white 
hairs. While the skin of the animal is very valuable, the tail is 
rarely used, though manufacturers of late years have consumed 
the hair in the manufacture of brushes and similar purposes. 
The legs are short and close to the body, the paw is naked, and the 
five toes on each foot are closely grown together like that of the 
badger. The foot is well adapted to digging. The toes are not 
webbed; the head is small, with short, rounded ears and rather 
long, projecting nose, with two small piercing eyes. Audubon 
describes the animal in the following words : "The skunk, al- 
though armed with claws and teeth strong enough to capture his 
prey, is slow on foot, apparently timid, and would be unable to 
escape from many of his enemies if he were not possessed of a 
power by which he often causes the most ferocious to make a ra- 
pid retreat, run the nose into the earth, or roll and tumble on the 
ground as if in convulsions ; and not infrequently even the bravest 
of our boasting race is by this little animal compelled suddenly 
to break off his train of thought, hold his nose and run as if a 
lion were at his heels." 

The skunk in general appearance is always neat and clean, 
and in walking seemingly takes special pride, as when promenad- 
ing, its tail is erect and its back peculiarly curved. Very few 
animals are as harmless as this creature and were it not for the 
peculiar odor which it distributes when in danger, it would be 
more hunted and probably eradicated in sections. Its princi- 
pal weapon, as heretofore noted, is a peculiar secretion and fluid 
possessing a very disagreeable odor. This fluid is of a palt 
yellow color and is discharged by the animal when in danger, in 
thin-like streams and with such accuracy and aim as to strike any 
object within 6 to 12 feet. The fluid is secreted in two anul 
glands from which by the contraction of the sub-caudal muscles 
and by uplifting of the tail it is discharged in the form as above 
stated. Trappers who are familiar with this secretion state that 
the discharge of this perfume looks like a puff of steam or white 
smoke. Dogs and other animals are adverse to attacking a skunk 
and only inexperienced or so-called "tenderfeet" will view this 
animal from the rear unless at a great distance. 

The animal is carnivorous, nocturnal, not entirely terrestrial, 
as occasionally he is known to climb trees, perhaps not of choice 
but rather compulsion, being forced to this fancied secure posi- 



42 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

tion by the hunter or his dog. Consequently his arboreal, like 
his amphibious habits, are rather undeserved credentials. The the- 
ory that the animal climbs trees in search of food and birds, is 
discredited. The animal is beneficial in many ways to the farm- 
er, and his eradication from any farming community should be 
prevented, and laws prohibiting the wanton destruction encour- 
aged. 

The contrast in size of the animal and the important varia- 
tion in the color of its pelage, due to climatic and geographical 
differences, cannot be denied. The breeding and inter-breeding 
of the different colored furred species is the principal explana- 
tion why the young of a litter are so much unlike in color. A 
Michigan trapper recently sent my firm eleven skunk skins, two 
larger than the others, presumably one from the male or father, 
the other from the female or mother ; the balance were from the 
offspring and were all much smaller. All were dug out from 
under an old granary. The skins graded as follows : 
1 Large Narrow Striped Skunk Skin "Father." 
1 Medium Short " " " "Mother." 

3 Small Short " " " "Cubs." 

4 Small Narrow " " '* " 
1 Small Broad " " *' " 
1 Small White 

The largest of the skunk species are probably found in 
Manitoba, where a few years ago four animals were killed and 
weighed by me; the average weight of the male was 15 pounds 
and that of the female ii}i pounds. All of the animals had 
two long white .furred, rather narrow stripes extending from 
neck, over body, terminating at the tail. The average weight of 
the northwestern male skunk is from 6 to 10 pounds, that of the 
eastern or southwestern animal 4 to 6 pounds. 

The predominating color of the fur of all species is black 
and white with the exception of the Texas skunk, which due to a 
peculiar soil, is of reddish cast. Some of the animals have a clear 
coat of fur, others are all black excepting a small white star, but 
the majority have two stripes, some terminating at the center of 
body, on others the stripe continuing from the forehead over the 
body, terminating at the tail. The stripes on many are so wide 
that very little black fur is left, and quite a number of skins are 
annually received that have practically no black fur at all. The 
white fur is usually of clear color, but occasionally skins are 
received that have a yellowish cast. 

jj . . This carnivorous and nocturnal animal is unlike most 

every other animal possessing these habits. He can be 

seen in the early morning returning to his haunts, and once in 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 43 

a while in the middle of the day ; at no time is he in a hurry, or 
will he discommode himself by getting out of your sight or es- 
pecially away from your path and it is not to be wondered at 
that the farmer, as well as the hunter, will give the animal the 
right of way. His mode of locomotion is slow, and rarely will 
he be found away from his haunt a greater distance than one or 
two miles. His abode is usually in a hollow log, under some 
old barn or granary, or in a hole on the sunny side of some hill. 
He enjoys a sun bath, probably more than does the bear or the 
badger. His meal is made up by free consumption of worms, 
bugs, grasshoppers, mice, birds and eggs. In some sections he 
is known to be quite a vegetarian, consuming as he does, roots, 
berries, vegetables, and fruits. Occasionally frequents the hen- 
roost, not only for eggs, but for the hen as well. 

In enemies he has to contend with the hunter and trapper, 
the fox and the wolf; but the latter two must be in an extreme 
state of hunger before they will disregard the pungent 
fluid and devour his body. Dogs are rather skeptical in attack- 
ing the skunk unless it is their first experience. In this respect 
they are no different than the hunter. 

The animal passes the winter season in a state of incomplete 
hibernation, and at regular intervals he will arise, come out of 
his abode and expose his body to the sun, and judging from the 
effluvium, empty its distended pouches, but the stench thus 
caused, soon ceases, which is not the case when it is spurted under 
irritation or in self-defense. Dr. Coues states "that the animal 
uses this secretion in the relation of its perpetuation of the species, 
though overshadowed by its exaggeration into a powerfully ef- 
fective means of preservation of the individual, is evidently the 
same as in other species of Mustelidge, each one of which has 
its own emanation to bring the sexes together, not only by simply 
indicating their whereabouts, but by serving as a positive attrac- 
tion. In the case of the skunk, it would seem that the strong 
scent has actually tended to result in a more gregarious mode of 
life than is usual in this family of mammals ; and it is certain, at 
any rate, that the occupancy by one animal of a permanent winter 
abode serves to attract others to the sam.e retreat. Burrows 
are sometimes found to contain as many as a dozen individuals, 
not members of one family, but various adult animals drawn to- 
gether. One other effect of the possession of such unique powers 
is seen not so much in mode of life as in the actual disposition 
of the creature. Its heedless familiarity, its temerity in push- 
ing into places which other animals instinctively avoid as danger- 
ous, and its indisposition to seek safety by hasty retreat, are evi- 



44 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

dent results of its confidence in the extraordinary means of de- 
fense with which it is provided. In speculating upon the devel- 
opment of this anal armature to a degree which renders it sub- 
servient to purposes for which the glands of other Mustelidse, 
though of similar character, are manifestly inadequate, and it 
may not be amiss to recall how defenseless the skunk would other- 
wise be in comparison with its allies. A tardy, terrestrial" ani- 
mal of no great strength or spirit, lacking the sagacity and 
prowess of the wolverene, the scansorial ability of the marten, 
the agility, sr. . I size, and tenuity of body of the weasel, the 
swimming and . ving powers of the otter, and even much of the 
eminent fossorial capacity of its nearest relations, the badger — 
lacking all these qualities, which in their several exhibitions con- 
duce to the safety of the respective species, it is evident that ad- 
ditional means of self-protection were required ; while the abun- 
dance of the animal in most parts of the country, and its audacity 
in the face of danger, show that its confidence in the singular 
means of defense it possesses is not misplaced." 

Th Wh"t '^^^ animal that has a clear, white-furred pelt 

Skunk ^^ very sparingly found, in fact so seldom, that 

many consider it a freak of nature and not a dis- 
tinct species. It is common to receive skins which are commer- 
cially called "white skunk skins," but these have some black fur, 
either on the shoulders, neck or legs, and occasionally a few black 
hairs or an extremely narrow stripe of black fur in center of the 
skin, beginning about the shoulders and terminating at the tail. In 
length, quality and texture, the fur compares favorably with the 
other species. The skins have little value. The range of prices 
depends somewhat upon the size of the skin, primeness, density, 
quality and texture of the fur fibers. A choice, perfect, clear 
white-furred skin (in its natural state), suitable for manufactur- 
ing purposes or for specimen purposes, is worth 75 c to $2.00 
Those that are partly stained or of a yellowish cast, are in little 
demand and their price ranges from 20c to 50 c, which is also the 
price of skins that have more or less black hairs or fur, in con- 
nection with the predominating white fur. 

The white skunk is found in common with the black, short 
striped and narrow striped species, chiefly in the localities where 
the black and short striped species are more plentiful. Are un- 
known in the locality that the large, narrow and long striped 
skunk inhabits. Are found in the eastern, Atlantic, middle and 
western states, but the percentage of white furred skunk skins, 
including those also commercially called "white skunk skins," 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 45 

is small. Trappers dislike this species, and are aggravated to 
find a white skunk instead of a black or short striped animal 
in their trap. 

The animal that has a black coat of fur is found 
in many states, those of New York, New Jersey, 
Pennsylvania, Michigan, Wisconsin, and eastern 
Canada, are better furred, and in consequence command better 
prices than those coming from the central states. The black 
skunk is also found in Illinois, Indiana, Kentucky, Arkansas, 
Virginia, North Carolina and South Carolina, in fact in every 
locality excepting in the northwestern states, also northwestern 
parts of Canada. The animal cohabits with the other species, 
and there is no apparent rule governing the breeding and inter- 
breeding and the probable coloration of the offspring. Some- 
what disregarding the color of the parents, the litter contains 
black, white, short, narrow and broad striped youngsters. The 
fur of the black skunk, especially the eastern variety, is soft, 
wavy, and of a deep lustrous black. Those animals that have 
only a small white furred star at the forehead are commercially 
called "black skunk." The tail of such a skin is invariably 
covered with long, black hairs. The animal that inhabits the 
southern and southwestern states is rather small and the fur in- 
ferior, consequently the skins command a lower price as com- 
pared with those found in the middle or eastern states. 

g. ^ gt • H This animal inhabits the same section as the 
g. . black skunk, the only difference between them 

is that the small white star of the former de- 
velops into prongs or two distinct white-furred stripes, starting at 
the forehead and terminating at or about the shoulders or center 
of body. Quite often the forehead is entirely covered with white 
fur, and immediately beginning at the top of head the white hair 
continues in two prongs, each varying in width from three-eighths 
to three-fourths of an inch. Should the white stripes continue 
clear across the body and terminate at the tail, such skins can- 
not be classed as short striped but are known as long, narrow 
or broad stripe. 

Short striped skins are second in value, the price being about 
one-third less than that of the black skins. The white stripes are 
of no value to the manufacturer, these are cut out by him, and 
for that reason the skin that has the greatest amount of black 
fur is worth more and the value lessened by the increase of the 
white stripe. The fur of the tail is black with intermingled 
white hairs. The disagreeable odor is removed by the dresser 
(tanner) and by the time the skin reaches the manufacturer, it 



46 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

is cleansed from all impurities and ready to be made into garments 

., e* • J This animal inhabits nearly every state and 

Narrow Striped ... r ^.u tt • i i 4- x' 

Skunk territory of the Union and greater part of 

Canada, and is the true American skunk, the 
one that is so much detested by the traveler and the early histori- 
ans. His coat of fur is black, excepting two white stripes begin- 
ning at the forehead and terminating at the tail. The width of 
these stripes varies somewhat, depending upon the size of the ani- 
mal, usually three-eighths to three-fourths of an inch. There is 
always a goodly portion of black fur between these stripes. The 
white stripe is of no particular value, and after the skin comes 
back from the dresser, the manufacturer removes the white stripe 
and sews the balance of the skin together. The white stripes 
are narrow and close together, but widen apart at center of back, 
and again narrowing when close to the root of tail. The largest 
animals of the skunk family come under the long or narrow 
striped species. Some of these animals are as large as the badger 
and raccoon. The smallest skins come from Texas and other 
southern states ; the fur is rather coarse and such skins have 
little value. 

J ^x • J This animal is found in common with the 
Broad Striped . 1 ... i-n- • 1 • 

g. . previous species, and its ditierence is only in 

the width of the white stripe which is wider, 
and the quantity of black fur on the skin is lessened, thereby di- 
minishing the value of the skin. This species is found more plen- 
tiful in the southern and southwestern states, is quite numerous 
in the Atlantic, western and northwestern states. On some speci- 
mens the white stripe is so broad that very little black fur is 
left. Perhaps this is more true of the smaller skins received 
from Texas and other southern states, and, of course, these have 
little value. There is no apparent iron-clad rule, or a dividing 
line between, or just where and when a skin should be called 
broad stripe and not a narrow striped skin. This naturally must 
be left largely to the judgment and discretion of the buyer or 
the manufacturer, who, in grading, seeks an average more than 
any particular dividing line. The tail is covered with white hairs 
with occasional interspersed black hairs. 

o St • d '^'^^^ animal has a long, horizontal white stripe 
g. . extending from forehead, continuing over the 

body, terminating at root of the tail ; the latter 
is covered with white fur and is probably more bushy in proportion 
to its size, than the other northwestern species. He is found only 
in the lower tiers of states bordering Mexico, probably more nu- 
merous in California than any other portion of this country. The 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 47 

skin is of no great value. The fur is rather coarse and the 
skins undesirable 

From the above description it will be noted that the value of 
the pelt lies principally in the quantity of black fur, diminishes 
by the increase and increasing by the lessening of the white fur. 
The clear black and most glossy furred skins bring the best 
prices; the skins of the eastern animal are more desirable as 
compared with those from the middle states. Manufacturers 
desire the extreme large, long striped skins obtained in some of 
the northwestern states, including Manitoba and other parts of 
Canada, for the reason that the fur is long and lustrous and the 
skin very large. 

Of late years the white stripes that are cut out of the skins 
are being used in the manufacture of spurious tails which are dyed 
to imitate the natural tail of mink, marten, etc. At other times 
these white pieces are sold in connection with other fur scraps or 
cuttings to hat manufacturers at a price of 2 to 3 cents per pound. 

Only those skins that are prime in leather and full furred, 
command good prices. Skins that are unprime are habitually 
poorly furred and the leather possesses insufficient strength, also 
the principal guard hairs protrude through the leather. The 
average price of skins, and the quantity annually marketed for 
a period of years, will be noted elsewhere. These tables are 
very interesting and should be perused by the reader to obtain 
a closer conception . of the magnitude and the probable future 
resources of this animal. 

A story related by one of the perpetrators of a joke upon a 
young Russian deserter located in North Dakota, is very interest- 
ing. In company with three others, he was taken on a hunting 
expedition in quest of foxes and coyotes, the latter for the bounty, 
and the former for his pelt, which was worth $4.00 to $5.00. He 
was impressed with the great value of silver or black fox skins and 
their color, etc. During the forenoon each of the three succeed- 
ed in killing one or more foxes and wolves, but the young Rus- 
sian was rather unfortunate and depressed in spirits, he not 
having had any success. A little later on he perceived a large 
stone pile, and upon nearing it some black furred animal entered 
therein. Apparently this movement was also noted by the others, 
but the Russian became excited, thinking that he had seen a 
black or silver fox enter the stone-pile. The others, however, 
knew that the animal he had seen was a skunk. It was agreed 
that whatever the animal might be, the Russian was entitled to 
its capture. The others gradually withdrew, but before depart- 
ing, cautioned him, also intimated that the probable capture of 



48 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

the black looking animal might place hundreds of dollars in his 
pocket, especially if it happened to be a well furred black fox, 
and if he could be captured without injuring the skin. The 
companions in withdrawing chuckled to themselves and left the 
"tenderfoot" to his wits and at the mercy of the skunk. 

The ambition of the Russian was to capture the fox alive and 
immediately rolled a large stone at the opening so as to prevent 
sudden egress. Stone after stone was now rolled and thrown 
aside, he working like a Trojan for about 20 minutes, before he 
reached what he thought was the den. There was no fox in 
sight, and more stones were removed, and while so occupied a 
skunk came out from one of the excavations ; turning his tail 
to the enemy, who at that moment perceived the supposed fox 
and started to grab him, but in return received one or more 
charges from the concealed battery. Perhaps this was too sud- 
den for both, at least indications pointed that both were surpris- 
ed, but as neither party gave quarters in the battle that followed, 
as may be expected the Russian became the victor, but much to 
his sorrow immediately thereafter. Holding the skunk by the 
neck with both hands he begged assistance, claiming he could 
not see and had difficulty in breathing. He finally dropped the 
skunk, which decamped back to the stone pile, while he reached 
for his handkerchief, wiped his face and eyes, spat, and acted 
as if demented. His face, hands and clothing were full of per- 
fume, which became unbearable to him, and upon being told 
that the animal was a skunk and not a fox, he cussed the skunk, 
stone pile, country and his companions, but all to no avail. The 
hunt ended right there and then, and they all departed for home. 
Upon arriving home his clothes were removed and burned. His 
style of action in battle was criticised and the probable result 
is that when he again enters into a fight of this nature, he will 
attack the enemy "face to face." 





Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 49 

THE CIVET CAT. 

Little Striped Skunk. Lot. Mephitis (Spilogale) Piitorius. 

AMERICAN civet cat must not be con- 
fused with the animal inhabiting Africa or 
Southern Asia known as the African civet 
from whose pouch a perfume, commercially 
known as "Civet" is extracted. This little 
four-striped skunk, under which name it is 
also known, belonging to the skunk family, 
possesses cirnivcrous and nocturnal habits. The animal is found 
in nearly all southern, central and Pacific states ; is scarcely found 
in the states bordering Canada, and is unknown in the latter coun- 
try. The animal is quite numerous in the central states, and es- 
pecially so in Iowa, Missouri, Kansas, Indiana, Illinois and Ne- 
braska. A large number of skins are annually received from the 
southwestern and 'western states, also from Florida and Texas. 
The animal measures from 23 to 28 inches from end of nose to tip 
of tail and stands four to five inches high from the heel to top of 
shoulder. The construction of the animal's body is such enabling 
it to be quick in action and the body proper weighs three, not 
exceeding four pounds. 

The fantastic, harlequin-like coloring is seldom duplicated in 
any two species, and in fact, no two skins in a lot of three to 
five hundred can be found alike — due to change and number of 
spots and the peculiar formation of the stripes. The animal 
possesses a coat of soft, black fur, having a white star in the 
center of the forehead, and four parallel and almost equi-distant 
stripes, beginning on the uppermost portion of the head between 
the ears, and ending at or about the center of the body. Another 
stripe-like formation on each side of the stripes heretofore men- 
tioned being curved in harp or lyre-like shape, encircling and 
ending about the center of the body. This concludes the stripes 
and the remainder of the black fur is intermingled with 6 to 8 
other small white spots. The tail possesses a growth of hair 
usually 4 to 5 inches in length, while that of the tailbone proper 
seldom exceeds 7 inches, usually 5 to 6 inches, a total length of 
10 to 15 inches, (four-fifths of bodv). Dr. Coues, in describing 
the ?tripes and the fur, notes as follows : 

"The notorious inconstancy of the white markings of skunks, 
even of those in which the pattern is normally simplest, finds 
room for exaggeration in the highest degree in this case where 
the normal markings are numerous and complicated. In some 




a o 

Dm 

ma 



?2 



T3 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 51 

cases, owing to interruption of the usual stripes, I have counted 
no less than eighteen separate white marks, exclusive of tail- 
tip and the vague chin-spots. The three head spots and the four 
parallel dorsal stripes on the anterior part of the body are the 
most constant, and may, so far as I have seen, be always traced, 
though the medium pair of stripes are liable to slight interrup- 
tion. The lateral pair are the firmest of all the markings. There 
is special liability to a break in these stripes where they begin 
to curve downward on the side. Complete break here, fusion 
of the solitary pair of dorsal spots with the transverse flank 
stripe, and lengthening into a stripe of the hip-spot result in three 
vertical, crescentic stripes succeeding each other behind the end 
of the main lateral stripe, that runs from the ear over the shoul- 
der. Interruption of these transverse crescents may give a 
set of numerous spots, without traceable stripes, on the hinder 
part of the body ; indeed, the markings of this part of the body 
are wholly indefinite. The lateral spots at the root of the tail 
often fuse into one. The tail is ordinarily black with definite 
white tip, but may have white hairs mixed with the black through- 
out, or be all black or all white. The shoulder stripe sometimes 
sends short spurs around toward the throat and' breast. The 
chin and upper throat may be perfectly black, or streaked through- 
out with white. The part of the ear corresponding with the 
white markings about it is commonly light colored; the rest of 
the ear is black. The naked muffle is dark colored. The claws 
are horn colored." 

The animal's wide geographical distribution most naturally 
results in marked differences in size of the animal, and color 
of its pelage. The habits, however, are the same. The black 
fur is quite pure and glossy with the exception of animals from 
certain parts of Texas where the soil has a tendency to give 
the fur a reddish hue. The skin from animals above denoted 
Dossess four to six white stripes with numerous white spots, and 
its tail is covered with long, black and white hairs. The skins 
are used natural or dyed black, and chiefly for lining purposes. 
The price of skins varies considerably, usually 15c to 35c. The 
fur is not as staple as that of mink, skunk or muskrat. 

Hab"ts "'"" respect to habits the animal closely resembles that 
of the skunk. It is nocturnal and carnivorous, better 
adapted to climbing trees and more readily covers distances than 
does the skunk. His favorable abode is under some old build- 
ing, shack, crib, etc., at other times in some hollow log or bur- 
row made by other animals. Such is generally on the side of a 
hill facing the morning sun. His principal food is worms, bugs, 



52 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 




grasshoppers, frogs, mice, birds and rats. In some sections it is 
claimed the animal is a great vegetarian. 

By the two anul glands from which by the contraction of 
the subcaudal muscles and by the uplifting of the tail, a fluid 
ranking in odor to that of the skunk, is discharged. The animal 
can discharge this obnoxious fluid at its pleasure. 



THE BADGER. 

(Gcr. Dachs, Lat. Taxidea Americana.) 

OTABLE diiferences between the American 
and the European badger has caused naturalists 
to distinguish and divide these into separate 
species, where they rightfully belong. The four 
members or sub-family of the Melinae are found 
teOogs' in Europe, Asia and America. The animal found 
on this continent is again sub-divided and the 
oflfspring known as the Mexican badger is spar- 
ingly found in Texas and the bordering states along the Mexican 
frontier to California, but principally confined to Mexico. 

The American badger (T. Americana) makes his home largely 
in open or prairie sections and is quite abundant west of the 
Mississippi River, though sparingly found in nearly every other 
state and territory in the United States ; also in parts of Canada, 
but in the latter country his existence is doubted northward of 
latitude 60 degrees north. Inquiry among traders operating north 
of the Great Slave Lake would indicate that the badger is un- 
known in that region. The badger is quite plentiful in the 
southern states, but the animal is smaller, his pelage somewhat 
differently colored, which is also coarser and the general char- 
acter of the southern typical badger gradually melts into the 
Mexican sub-species berlandieri. 

The body is stout, broad and flat, rather depressed and clumsy, 
about 24 to 32 inches long with a stubby tail measuring 4 to 6 
inches. Its legs are short but heavy, being stoutly built, and 
its feet resemble those of the bear, long and large with five toes 
into which an equal number of long, curved claws are firmly set ; 
those of the front feet measure i^ to 2^ inches on outside 
curvature, while the rear claws are rather stubby and only one- 
half to two-thirds as long, also the toes and feet are only pro- 
portionately as large as are the front feet. The head is rather 
small, and like the body, flat, especially very broad across the 



Andersch Bros/ Hunirrs and Trappers Guide. 53 



forehead. Its snout is pointed but not necessarily long. The 
dental formation consists of 34 teeth. In the animal's natural 
erect position the belly portion ^'s scarcely more than 3 to 3>4 
inches from the ground, while to the top at center of back a total 
elevation of 12 to 13 inches may be attained. 

A large, full-grown northern male badger when at its best 
will weigh about 40 pounds ; thst of the middle or western states 
25 to 30 pounds, and the sout'. ern species not much over 20 
pounds. The female or the two-year-old male is only two-thirds, 
probably three-fourths as large and as heavy. The fur of the 
badger varies greatly in color and texture as a fortutious matter 
of age, season, natural surroundings and conditions, besides the 
usual climatic and geographical differences that form a con- 
spicuous part in noting the differences in species, and become 
the nucleus in the naturalists' opinion when sub-dividing or re- 
arranging the order of mammalia. Nature does not provide a 
like coat of fur for animals inhabiting different climates, and 
a contrast is even noticeable between animals possessing, as 
does the badger, hibernating habits, where one is exposed to the 
elements and the other remains for one or more winter months 
in his or her cave or burrow. Manufacturers, fur buyers, traders 
and trappers, in fact almost everyone connected with the raw 
fur business, are puzzled in the contrast of quality, quantity, length 
and texture of the fur fibers that exists between badgers from 
the same locality, of equal age and size, and like period of the 
season. Both skins may be prime from the flesh side, while 
one may possess a soft, long, mellow, and in fact perfect coat of 
fur, the other is unprime, harsh, shallow, coarse and flat, and en- 
tirely unsuited for manufacturing purposes. 

The pelage of the mounted speciman accompaying this ar- 
ticle, measures lyi to 2 inches on the upper part of body, while 
at its side the outer guard hairs are three-fourths to i inch 
longer. (254 to 3 inches.) The belly portion is covered with 
a short, coarse growth of fur three-eighths to one-half inch in 
length. In color the main fur fibers are divided by the outer 
points, being gray and of a silver tipped nature, and beginning 
at the middle, gradually turn into a light yellow, somewhat dirty 
looking, color. The fur on or about the tail is considerably 
coarser and a peculiar yellowish cast predominates. The fur 
about the upper portion of its legs, also about the neck, is short 
and black. The male generally possesses a darker coat of fur 
and is also more conspicuous in size than the female, the latter 
being one-third to one-fourth smaller and the body more 
flattened. 




Mounted Specimen 
owned by Anderscb Bros. 



THE BADGEB 

Extra laree and full srrown 



South Dakota 
Full Furred 



^ Andersch ^ros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 55 

Habits ^^^^ animal's feet and claws are especially adapted 
for digging, and it is no wonder at all that the badger, 
if observed within a reasonable distance, can make a burrow of 
sufficient depth to bury himself before the intruder reaches the 
spot. In sandy soil, the badger will make a burrow of sufficient 
depth to bury himself in the remarkably' short space of two 
minutes, and the hunter on approaching the spot where the 
animal was seen, finds only the traces of his fresh work ; by 
disturbing the ground he will find the animal on his back ready 
to assume the attack. The badger above all other animals is 
noted for its flatness ; even when running it looks broad and flat, 
and its body seems to sweep the ground during its rather slow, 
heavy and awkward progress. Seen when crouching in fancied se- 
curity, or hoping to escape observation (and it will sometimes 
remain long motionless in this posture, permitting near ap- 
proach), the animal might easily be mistaken for a stone or 
clod of earth. The very hairs lie flat, as if parted in middle, and 
form a fringe along either side, projecting, as one writer has 
remarked, "like the shell of a turtle or the eaves of a house." 

The food consists of roots, bugs, worms, eggs, birds, mice, 
rabbits, and frogs ; also seeks the nest of bees, and, seemingly, 
the tough hide is impervious to the stings of the native bee as 
well as the bumblebee. The abode of the badger is in some hole, 
quite often on the sunny side of some hill. He has from three 
to five subterraneous passages leading to his living room. The 
latter is well supplied -with food and padded out with vegetation 
such as straw, grass, leaves, etc. Usually one passage is used 
for entering and egress, the others being built for air purposes ; 
also in case of danger to have free access or exit. Quite often 
the animal will expose himself to the rays of the sun, and when 
ill-disposed will walk about the opening of the exit, up and down, 
making a quick turn at each end and view the surroundings with 
a demeanor indicating nervousness. 

The breeding season begins early in the spring and during 
the month of May the mother brings forth a litter of three to 
five, which are born in her den. After suckling them for a 
period of 60 to 75 days, she trains them to catch, kill and devour 
mice, bugs and worms. Shortly thereafter the mother loses her 
affection for her young and they are placed upon their own re- 
sources, but continue to inhabit the same abode until the be- 
ginning of fall. The father cares little for the comfort of the 
children or that of the mother during the entire period. The 
young mature in 24 months, and the animal attains an age of 
10 to 12 years. As a rule the male badger will inhabit a certain 
abode all by himself, and only during the breeding time will hc 



56 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



assume the companionship of the female. It happens quite often 
that a red fox will inhabit part of the den with the badger, and, 
seemingly, the two animals get along nicely, neither one disturb- 
ing or observing the other. In the fall the badger will carry 
leaves and other soft material into his den with which to pad 
and upholster, also to absorb the dampness of the ground in 
his quarters, thus making ready for a severe winter. Just be- 
fore winter sets in, the badger will carry a moderate supply of 
food to his den or permit same to remain in some of the passages 
heretofore occasionally used. When about to begin his winter 
sleep, the animal will place his head between his two front feet, 
lie on his belly and sometimes slumber along for weeks and 
even months at a time. During warm spells or thawy nights the 
animal is likely to proceed somewhat beyond the outer opening, 
and after a stay of one to five hours will return and resume his 
sleeping posture. 

This animal should be killed for its fur only in the winter, 
and even then quite a number of the skins received indicate that 
the animal was not sufficiently exposed to the elements, or at 
any rate the fur is unprime, regardless of the fact that the skin 
on the flesh side indicates primeness. Only such skins that have 
a long soft-furred coat are of any value; flat, unprime badger 
skin 5 should not be marketed. 




Killed by 
L. J. Wright 



Collinsville 
Conn. 



WILD CAT 




Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 57 

THE WILD CAT. 

(Ger. Wildkatse, Lat. Lynx Rufus.) 

ONSIDERABLE confusion exists between dif- 
ferent naturalists ; some claim that the Amer- 
ican and European wild cat is closely related 
and direct descendent of the domestic house 
cat ; others are likewise determined that this 
carnivorous cat is a lynx, and that climatic 
and geographical differences are responsible 
for the variation in size, color and other char- 
acteristics. 

In this country, the ordinary wild cat, in- 
habiting as it does nearly every state and territory in the Union, 
shows marked variation, and unusual differences in size and 
color exist. The animal is known under different names : bob 
cat, bay lynx, red lynx, etc. The species certainly resembles the 
true lynx much more than it does the house cat, and any of the 
latter names would be more appropriate. Some of the northern 
species resemble the Canadian lynx so closely in size and color 
and markings of fur, also in its tail, that, unless closely observed, 
one would believe that they are the same species ; this however 
is not true of the beasts found in other parts of North America. 
A full-grown northern wild cat will measure 32 to 36 inches 
from nose to root of tail. The latter is about 5 inches long, 
rather slender, and the fur of that member closely resembles that 
of the body, excepting the tip, which has a semi-circle of black 
fur on the end. Such a cat will weigh from 30 to 36 pounds, but 
individual male beasts have been known to weigh as much as 
40 pounds. The legs are stout, but incomparable with those 
of the Canadian lynx. They seem rather long and slender and 
are well furred. The feet are proportionately as large, and 
sharp and re-tractable claws, well curved, enables the beast to 
climb trees with remarkable ease. The pelage of the northern 
species during the winter months consists of a rather dense 
coat of fur, fairly soft, resembling somewhat the color of the 
true Canadian lynx, being light brown with whitish tufts here 
and there, and the back portion has rather a reddish cast. Oc- 
casionally the fur of the northern wild cat is of a silver grey 
color. The belly part is covered with a less dense growth of 
fur with whitish colored interspersed tufts of black hair. There 
are two apparent dorsal stripes of darker hair beginning at the 
forehead, continuing over the body, but at times these stripes 



5S 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



are indistinct, and give way to tufts of fur that are two or three 
shades darker. 

The ruffious formation or whiskers as they are sometimes 
called, that make the Canadian lynx so conspicuous, is also 
noticeable on the wild cat. The fur on the tail is notable in its 
intermingled, alternating, ring formation, ending as it does with 
a black tip of a semi-circle form. The fur on the southern and 
western species is rather short, harsh and of a reddish cast, and 
the black spots or tufts that scarcely appear only on the belly 
of the northern species, are more numerous and nearly all over 
the animal's body. Fully as large, if not larger, beasts inhabit 




NORTHERN 

WILD CAT 



some of the western and southwestern states. Individual skins 
received from Colorado and other mountainous sections, measure 
42 to 44 inches from nose to root of tail. The latter member, 
from sections, attains a total length of 7 to 7>4 inches. The 
animal that inhabits the southeastern and middle states is com- 
paratively smaller, invariably weighing 18 to 22 pounds. 

In the fur trade that species commonly known as the red 
lynx, which is found in the western, also Pacific states, is graded 
as "wild cat." the skin resembling that of the latter. In quality 
the fur is inferior, while the average weight of these animals is 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



59 



from 20 to 30 pounds; some species weigh considerably more. 
The value of wild cat skins varies considerably, those of the 
northern being worth from $1.00 to $2.00; those of the middle 
and northwestern states, 65c to $1.50 and those of the southern 
25c to $1.00. During the summer months the fur is extremely 
short and of a reddish cast ; especially is this true of the south- 
ern species and such skins are of little value. 

Hab't '^^^ animal possesses great strength, and when pur- 
sued, hard pressed or cornered, will, with daring and 
ferocity of extraordinary degree, go for the intruder, be it dog, 




From Original Painting- 
owned by Andersch Bros. 



WILD CAT 



Late Fall 
Northwestern 



beast, or member of the human family. Otherwise the cat is of 
a cowardly disposition and will seldom attack anything out of 
the ordinary run. He much prefers dense timber where his food 
is more easily obtained. His meals consist chiefly of birds, 
rabbits, mice, rats, weasels, squirrels, muskrats and occasionally 
his nocturnal habits bring him to the barnyard in quest of 



60 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

chickens, geese and ducks; nor will he object to carrying away 
a small suckling pig or small lamb. 

Their home is made either in a hollow tree, in some cliff 
under rocks, or other obscure locality, where they are entirely or 
partly protected from the elements. The mother brings forth 
a litter of four to seven young, which she protects and nourishes 
until they are able to procure their own food. The playful dis- 
position of the kittens resembles that of the domestic cat family. 

The animal's lair is occasionally 20 to 30 feet above the 
ground in some lofty tree ; in all cases the abode is quite com- 
fortable, being padded with moss, dried leaves, etc., and especially 
is this true if the abode or lair is in a cavity below the roots of 
some huge tree. The animal is detrimental and a nuisance, and 
his eradication is much desired on the part of hunters, due to 
his large consumption of wild birds and game. In cat fashion 
he stealthily steals, winds, crawls, nearing his victim, in the 
most noiseless fashion until within distance, when he will sudden- 
ly dart out or pounce upon his victim from some elevation. 

THE CANADA LYNX. 

(Ger. Liichs, Lat. Lynx Borealis or Lynx Canadenis.) 



CARNIVORANT is much larger than the 
wild cat. Is chiefly found in Canada. Was 
formerly in large numbers in the heavily- 
timbered sections of the northern part of 
this country, and is now sparingly found in 
the tier of states extending from Maine to 
Washington. One or more of these species 
are found in nearly every country; has been 
one of Europe's most hated and eagerly 
sought after in the animal kingdom ; is now 
rarely found in civilized sections, although still abounding in 
Norway, Sweden and Russia, and especially in Siberia and other 
northern latitudes. Its peculiar howls during the night cause 
great uneasiness to the unprotected traveller or miner. He in- 
habits a mountainous section and is rarely found in the open, but 
principally in thickets, dense woods and forests, and always away 
from civilization. 

An average full-grown Canadian lynx measures from nose to 
tip of tail 35 to 40 inches. The latter member is about 5 inches 
long, and the animal will weigh from 25 to 40 pounds. Oc- 
casionally a much larger and heavier animal is captured, but it 




Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 61 

is safe to state that the average length from nose to root of tail 

is 30 to 35 inches. The largest skin coming to my notice during 

the past few years, measured 43 inches from nose to root of tail, 

and the latter member, including the black furred tip, was d/s 

inches long. The estimated weight of this brute was certainly in 

the vicinity of 50 pounds. The body is robust, thick and heavy, 

and apparently the animal is far less fleet than its congener, the 

bay lynx. The thighs are extremely long and the legs thick, 

massive and clumsy. The large paws are also massive, the toes 

thick and so completely concealed by the fur that the tracks 

made in the snow by this animal are indistinct. The ears are 

somewhat larger than those of the wild cat, well pointed and 

furred on both sides, with a bunch of long, soft, black pencil-like 

hairs extending from the extreme portion of the ear from ij^ to 

i^ inches in length. Naturalists claim that this bunch of hair 

acts to the animal's sense of hearing as do the long hairs on 

each side of the cat's mouth to its sense of smell. The tail, which 

is 5 to 6 inches long, is covered with fur resembling that of the 

body, excepting that at the end a heavy plume-like tip of a 

lustrous black color is very prominent. Peculiar long hairs, of a 

ruffious formation, often called wdiiskers, grow on each side of 

the neck just below the ears and terminate underneath the throat 

The animal's pelage during the winter months is of a rich, 

soft, mellow character, varying in color from a light brown to a 

silver grey. The belly portion is of a whitish nature and the 

fur one-fourth to one-half inch longer as compared with that of 

the back ; the latter is one and one-fourth to one and three-fourths 

inches in length, and always of darker color. The black furred 

spots that are so conspicuous on the belly portion of the wild 

cat, are entirely absent in the lynx. The skin has become very 

valuable during the past years, and consequently the animal is 

eagerly soucjht after by the hunter and trapper and is becoming 

scarcer every year. Alost skins that are received find their way 

to the market from Canada, and from the northwestern states, 

from Michigan to Washington. The Hudson Bay Co. probabl> 

market as many lynx skins as all others combined. The skins are 

used largely in the manufacture of ladies' wearing apparel, such 

as boas, scarfs, and for trimming purposes. 

u ... The Ivnx possesses carnivorous and nocturnal habits 
Habits. , ,-. <■ ^ ^. . 

and his clumsy construction seems of no apparent 

detriment to his swiftness and precision on foot, also when in the 

trees. He is an excellent climber and frequently pounces from 

a cliff or tree upon his prey, while at other times he will follow 

stealthily until within springing distance and surprise the victim 

by pouncing upon him. He is sometimes seen in the loftiest of 



Andersch Bros* Hunters and Trappe rs Guide. 63 

trees in search of birds or in the chase of small quadrupeds. He is 
known to cross rivers in his chase of animals, also when pur- 
sued by the hunter. The animal is a night prowler and is seldom 
seen during the day, which time he generally spends in a semi- 
sound slumber. The lynx is more retired in his habits than our 
common wild cat and keeps away from habitation, being usually 
found in the depth of the wilderness. He confines himself strict- 
ly to a meat diet, probably more so than any other carnivorant. 
In this respect he is fastidious, preferring fresh meat to that of 
stale or putrid. He has no particular love for fish, yet is known 
to devour them ; but whether the brute is able to capture them 
in the water is unknown to us. When alarmed or pursued, he 
leaps, or bounds, rapidly, almost in a straight line, from danger, 
and if hard pressed he readily takes to a tree. He is able to leap 
from a considerable height to the ground without feeling the 
jar, alighting as he does on all four feet, and instantly de- 
parting, beginning the battle if dogs attempt to stop him. That 
the animal is able to capture a young deer, is not disputed, but 
to do this he must have a favorable location so that he can pounce 
upon the victim's neck. He will often follow the trail of cattle, 
deer, moose, bear and even that of the hunter or trapper. He is 
known to disturb traps set for mink, marten and other animals and 
at other times (probably from experience), refuses to touch or 
go near a setting, but rather crouches down or elevates himself 
to some lofty position, where he awaits the anticipated visitor 
to the trap, upon which he pounces. A half-breed, who has 
trapped for years in British Columbia, relates an experience 
probably seldom witnessed by man : 

While inspecting a line of traps set for mink, marten, and 
occasionally one for a fox, he came across a partly devoured 
rabbit that had evidently sprung a marten trap and had been 
found by a lynx, which was in the act of devouring the rabbit 
when disturbed by the approach of the trapper. Knowing the 
habits of the lynx, and feeling assured that the animal would re- 
turn to finish his meal, the trapper set two of the largest steel traps 
he had with him, "No. 2>4," about the remaining portion of the 
rabbit, and departed for the other side of the creek. While cross- 
ing the creek, he noticed, at a distance, two wolves evidently fol- 
lowing his trail. He felt somewhat aggrieved at not having at- 
tached the chains to a drag to detain the wolves in case one or 
both should spring the traps. Apparently the lynx was in the 
neighborhood all this time, as only fifteen minutes expired before 
Mr. Lynx came back to the rabbit. He sniffed around and acted 
as if something was wrong. Apparently he was desirous of 
finishing his meal, but was afraid to approach too close, He 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 65 

crouched and lay motionless on his belly, then he would ascend 
near-by trees, only to leap at once to the ground, acting in a very 
frenzied manner, indicating to the observing trapper that he 
wanted the rabbit very badly and was endeavoring to discover 
some way of obtaining it without delay, and without being obliged 
to venture too close to the spot where it lay. After the lapse of 
nearly ten minutes, he suddenly leaped from a tree, ran to the 
place where he had left the rabbit half an hour before, grabbed 
it, and turned about and ofif he went. But, alas ! His forefoot 
sprung one of the traps. He yelped, dropped the rabbit from his 
mouth, took hold of the chain, and twisted it and whined. His 
hasty action, disregarding his usual trait of caution and alertness, 
was prompted by his eagerness to obtain the food that he thouj^lit 
belonged to him, rather than to let the approaching wolf have it. 
Having viewed all this from a tree, the trapper slowly descended, 
crossed the creek and taking his rifle, first killed one of the wolves 
and then the lynx. The bodies were skinned and about tl cm three 
Newhouse traps were set; the next day a wolf (probably the 
other) had sprung the trap, and a rifle ball ended his misery. 




essi.- 




Andersch Bros' Hunter s and Trappers Guide. 67 

THE MOUNTAIN LION. 
(Puma, Cougar, Am. Panther, Catamount.) 

ANIMAL, known under the various names 
above, also American Tiger, is found prin- 
cipally in the western part of the United States 
along the Rocky Mountains from Mexico to 
Klondike in Alaska ; also along the Sierra Ne- 
vadas and Cascade Mountains and probably in 
other portions of Canada, especially in the 
mountainous regions of Athabasca. The illus- 
tration accompanying this article indicates that 
the brute is 59 inches from nose to root of tail, the latter 33 inches 
long, and he stands 28 inches high from the ground to top of 
front shoulder. The animal possesses a uniform color, the south- 
ern species being of a few shades lighter than that of the northern, 
the latter being of a beautiful tan or golden brown color. The 
fur on the southern species is rather short and harsh, and evenly 
distributed about the body and tail. In color the belly portion is 
always a few shades lighter. The animal has a white furred spot 
below the eyes, and quite often the fur on the neck and chest is of 
a whitish color. The fur of the northern species is about one 
inch long, not quite so harsh, but by no means soft or silky, and 
as aforesaid, of a golden brown color. Individual skins coming 
from the Klondike regions measure nearly six feet from nose to 
root of tail, and the latter is 36 inches long; but this skin was 
probably from an unusually large brute. The animal is eagerly 
hunted but is far from being exterminated. Undoubtedly it is 
great sport to bring this monstrous brute to bay. Mr. Theodore 
Roosevelt, now President of the United States, has killed many 
of these lions in the mountains of Colorado. There is no great 
danger in hunting this brute if one is cautious, but no one should 
attempt it unless he is a good shot, for if cornered or wounded 
the brute it likely to revert the tables. The animal is armed with 
sharp teeth, long and heavy claws, and his sneaking and pouncing 
attitude is only too well known. 

The animal possesses carnivorous, nocturnal habits, and be- 
ing of a bloodthirsty disposition, he awaits the coming of game 
from the trees, ridges, or upon some cliff, from which points 
he is able to pounce upon the victim. Their peculiar howls are 
distinguished from other animals and their lion-like roar sends 
chills through the inexperienced hunter or miner. Regardless of 
his bloodthirsty and ferocious nature, the animal will give wide 



68 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



range to man, and even if wounded he will seek to escape, but 
if closely pursued has been known to pounce upon the hunter, 
and if taken unawares, the latter is doomed. They are good 
climbers and readily take to trees when pursued by dogs, from 
which position, the hunter, if a good shot, can bring the brute 
lifeless to the earth. 

His food consists chiefly of animals, both domestic and wild, 
and very few of the small mammals are excepted by him ; all 
fall prey to this monster. He is able to carry away sheep, young 
calves and has been known to kill heifers, also colts. That a 
large number of deer fall prey to this monster, cannot be denied. 




Photographed Springtime 
Along N. P. Ry. in Mont. 



YOUNG MOUNTAIN LION 



Courtesy of 
N. P. Ry. Co. 



When the lion has seized a victim, he tears open its neck and 
laps the blood before he begins to eat. Small animals are de- 
voured entirely, but the larger ones he eats only in parts, usually 
the neck and shoulders. The other parts are sometimes covered 
up with leaves, branches, grass, etc. His sense of smelling and 
of hearing is acute. His skin is used chiefly for rug, robe or 
mounting purposes, and unless head, feet and tail are perfect and 
attached, the skin becomes undesirable. Any hunter who is 
fortunate in bringing down this monster and desires the skin 
mounted should not fail to obtain the skull and leg bones. 




Andersch Bros.' llmders and Trappers Guide. 69 

THE JAGUAR. 

(Gcr. Unze, Lat'. Felix Onza.) 

HAT is true relative to ferocity, habits, etc., 
of the Puma, is also true of this animal, 
the largest of the cat species found on 
this continent. Although its home is 
chiefly in South America, it was formerly 
found in large numbers in the southern 
states, especially in Louisiana and Texas, 
and it is still numerous in Mexico. It is 
safe to say that this cat has been driven 
away or captured, and that very few, if 
any. exist at the present time in the United States. 

A full-grown jaguar will measure 55 to 60 inches from nose 
to root of tail, the latter being 25 to 30 inches in length. The 
fur is soft and spotted similarly to that of the leopard, although 
the coat of the animal varies considerable in color, from a light 
brown and reddish hue to a dark, almost black appearance, all 
having peculiar spots upon the body and portions of the tail. The 
end of the tail however, possesses a dark plume-like tip followed 
by seven or eight ring formations similar to that of the raccoon, 
alternating black and brown and corresponding in color with 
that of the body. 

Its favorite haunts are in swamps and jungles, bordering 
close to sections of timber and dense brush, and it is a frequent 
visitor in pastures, often lying concealed for hours near a path or 
trail where cattle, horses, mules or wild beasts are known to 
travel. He becomes master in a remarkably short period, rarely 
exceeding fifteen minutes, of the largest steer, cow or mule, and 
it is safe to say that whenever his teeth and sharp claws are im- 
bedded in the animal's back and neck the monster has the prey 
at his mercy and every effort and the strength of the victim to 
remove the jaguar is of little avail. Small animals are downed 
with one of his paws — the animal possessing unusual and 
enormous strength — and often his victim is torn asunder by one 
stroke. -,^-^'- '--^'>,^! 

The jaguar will follow animals into the water, but seldom 
climbs trees after animals or birds, though is able to climb and 
remain on trees and their branches for an indefinite period. Is 
known to swim a long distance and to go on board of anchored 
boats seeking food. Brehm relates having seen a jaguar near 
a stream in a crouching position looking into the water and suc- 
ceeding in catching fish by a sudden movement of the paw, 



70 



Andersch ^ros/ Hunters and Trappers Cruide. 



similar to our domestic or other species of the cat family, in that 
respect. 

Rengger relates that the male, also the female, jaguar live 
alone during the greater portion of the year, and only during 
the months of August and September do the two sexes seek each 
other's companionship. A litter of two or three cubs is brought 
fourth in the den or pit, the latter being protected from the sun or 
rain to a greater or less extent, generally in a thicket or forest. 




Drawn by ROCKY MOUNTAIN COUGAR Courtesy of N. P. Ry. 

Ernest Thompson Seton (For illustration of Jaguar see page 8) 

The skins are used largely for rug purposes and have little 
or no value unless the head, claws and tail are perfect. Many 
mounted specimens can be seen in this country, also in Europe. 
Prominent southern planters and hunters possess skins as well 
as mounted specimens, the former made into rugs, the latter 
decorate their dining rooms or libraries. 



Andersch Bros/ Uuniers and f rappers Guide. Ti 



THE WOLF. 

The Timber, The Brush or Buffalo, The Prairie or Coyote, 
The Black, The White, The Texas. 

||C^BK| his animal is found in nearly all sections of 
III^K^ the globe. Particularly so in North Amer- 

lla^SV^ ^^^' ^^^^ ^^^ certain parts of Europe. Al- 

|J||9fl|^ though varying in size, color, and apparent- 

^^r^t^ -^ ly of different species, they all belong to 

the dog family, but we shall confine our- 
selves to the species that are known in this country. 

There are very few farmers in the western states that have not 
at one time or another come in contact with one of these brutes. 
What the fox is to the poultry yard, the wolf, especially the larger 
species, is to sheep and calves. The wolf, like all other animals, 
fears man, but when in large numbers, especially if man is fear- 
some and the wolves hungry, the latter are rather aggravating, 
and at times victor over man himself. 

The Timber Wolf. 

A hunter in giving chase, or in his attempt to capture this 
brute, which like all others of its species belong to the dog family, 
has to contend with an animal of almost human intelligence. 
Few, if any, have superior sagacity and the art of dodging, and 
are at th^ same time more dangerous if cornered, than this car- 
nivorant. He is large, robust, periodically lean, swift of foot, 
and has highly developed sense of smell, hearing and sight. His 
appetite is almost constant, and not of a fastidious order. Single- 
handed he is a coward, but his appetite may revert to his fero- 
cious nature at any opportune moment. 

He is found in northern, western and northwestern states, 
also in Canada. He must not be confused with the smaller order 
elsewhere described under brush or buffalo, neither with the 
still smaller variety of prairie or coyote. Is also known under 
the name of giant wolf and grey wolf. The pelage of the north- 
ern variety during the winter is of a whitish to a greyish color, 
with one or two indistinct dorsal lines of black tipped hairs on 
the animal's back, extending from its neck to the tail. The fur 
part on the belly is of a dull, white color, and its legs are covered 
with a short fur ranging from a whitish to a slight yellowish cast. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 73 

The latter color is almost absent on the northern species and be- 
comes more distinct the farther south we go. The fur in general 
is coarse, and apparently the older and larger the animal, the 
coarser its fur. Such skins have a shaggy appearance, are of 
small value, and their use is confined to the making of rugs, robes, 
sleeping bags, etc. 

Recently there was shipped to us from Canada what was con- 
sidered by the shipper and his friends, to be a good speciman of 
a large timber wolf. The animal was killed by a Mr. Johnson in 
the vicinity of Galgary and shipped in a frozen state, reaching us 
in a well-preserved condition. The dimensions are judged to be 
as follows when the animal was alive : 

Length from root of tail to extremity of nose 633^ inches 

Tail, root to tip 18 inches 

Height from floor to top of shoulders 29^ inches 

Circumference of body estimated 34 inches 

Skins from other sections, and* in particular one from 
northern Minnesota, measured 56 inches from nose to root of 
tail, the latter measuring 18^ inches over all, or its vertebrae 15 
inches. The predominating color of the latter was steel grey, 
intermingled with dorsal of black-tipped hairs, and about the neck, 
shoulders and outer portion of limbs, a yellowish cast was notice- 
able. The belly portion was white. The body, especially round 
the chest, shoulders and the top portion of the front of the animal, 
was more densely furred ; also the outer guard hairs longer as 
compared with the pelage on tlie other part of the body. The 
interspersed black-tipped guard hairs that appeared so noticeably 
on the animal's back, especially about the shoulders, terminated 
only near the tip of the tail. 

The Brush Wolf. 

This is also a northern species, somewhat smaller than the 
timber or grey wolf. Naturalists very often class this northern 
animal with the timber or grey variety, but in doing so they 
largely rely upon the exploits of the early explorers who failed to 
note the distinction, and those who did were impressed with the 
close similarity of the color of its pelage, construction and habits, 
and noted the comparative difiference in size, but they inadvertent- 
ly labored under the impression that they had a young grey wolf 
before them. 

This animal is found in northern sections, usually about tim- 
ber, along the bank of creeks, rivers and lakes ; his favorite haunt 
is in brush, thickets, interpersed with open sections. He period- 
ically inhabits prairie states, and of late years numerous skins 



74 



Andersch BrosJ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



have been received from the bordering states and particularly 
so from Canada. In size he is about one-half between that of the 
small prairie and the big timber species. The male is about one- 
fifth to one-fourth larger than the female. The former attains 
a weight of 60 to 80 lbs. One fair-sized specimen that came to 
my notice, and which was killed in northern Wisconsin by being 
poisoned, weighed 71 pounds. As noted' elsewhere, its pelage re- 
sembles that of the big timber wolf, but instead of its coat be- 
ing coarse and shaggy, the fur on this one was unusually soft 
and dense. It does not compare in texture with that of the red 
fox. The predominating color ranged from a dirty white to a 
light grey, with a yellowish cast about the legs and hips, also 
with black outer hairs indiscriminately interspersed on its back. 




Caught in a 
No. 3 Steel Trap 



THE BRUSH WOLF 



Courtesy Outdoor Life 
Cenvey, Col. 



The skin of the animal during the winter time, if not otherwise 
damaged, is suitable for various purposes, and of late years the 
manufacturer has purchased the better grade of such skins, which 
are converted into the spurious tails so extensively used by the 
furrier in the making of ladies' neckwear, boas, etc. 



The Black Wolf. 

This dusky brute is now sparingly found on this hemisphere. 
Audubon and Bachman and other prominent naturalists claim 
that the black wolf, 40 to 60 years ago, was numerous in the 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



75 



southern states and in fact all over the United States. But what 
was true then is certainly not true today. The black wolf is b^ 
no means extinct in this hemisphere, but is exceedingly scarce, 
and probably extinct in most states. During the last 15 years, 
no less than 100,000 wolf skins of the various species came to 
my notice, and out of this number no more than twelve or fifteen 
were of the black variety. 

The animal seldom attains a greater size than that of the 
brush wolf, although a larger specimen came to my notice two 
years ago. The animal from which the skin was taken must have 
weighed 85 to 90 pounds and resembled the timber variety more 
than the other species. Its pelage is comparatively finer than that 
of the timber or brush variety, being soft and mellow, also denser. 




THE END OF A COYOTE HUNT 

As its name signifies, the color of its pelt is black with steel grey 
hairs promiscuously interspersed with the large, lustrous guard 
hairs that bring the beauty to the skin. The fur is not kinky, 
curly or wavy, but the fibers are straight, smooth and of a mellow 
character. At times a white spot is noticed on the animal's chest, 
and again on the animal's tail. The black wolf resembles so 
closely a large, straight-furred black dog, that if the animal was 
tame and would follow a person in the street, he would pass un- 
noticed, unless for his remarkable size and beauty. 

The following extracts from Audubon are interesting: 
"About 70 or 80 years ago two young negroes residing near 
the banks of the Ohio in the lower part of Kentucky, habitually 



76 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

visited their sweethearts who were employed on a plantation some 
four miles distant. As to the lover every moment is precious, 
they usually took the shortest route which led through the cane 
brake. Winter had set in and the night was cold, dark and 
gloomy, when these two negroes, each with an axe on his 
shoulder, walked briskly along the narrow path, each having in 
mind only the damsel of his choice. Some transient glimpses of 
light now and then met their eyes in the more open spaces between 
the trees, or when the heavy drifting clouds, parting at times, 
allowed a star to peep forth upon the desolate scene. Fearfully 
a long and frightful howl burst upon them, and they were in- 
stantly aware that it proceeded from a troop of hungry and per- 
haps desperate wolves. Pausing for a moment, a dismal silence 
succeeded. All was dark save a short space of the snow-covered 
ground before them. Resuming their pace hastily, but with axes 
in their hands prepared for the attack, suddenly the foremost man 
was assailed by several wolves which seized on him, and inflicted 
terrible wounds with their fangs on his legs and arms, and as 
they were followed by many others as ravenous as themselves, 
several sprang at the breast of his companion, and dragged him 
to the ground. Both struggled manfully against their foes, but 
in a few moments one of the negroes had ceased to move. The 
other reduced in strength threw down his axe and sprang onto 
the branch of a tree and gained a place of safety among the 
boughs. Here he passed a miserable night ; next morning the bones 
of his friend lay scattered around on the snow which was stained 
with blood. Three dead wolves lay near, but the rest of the pack 
had disappeared." 

Superstition prevailed, not only in the southern states, but 
also continues among certain Indians and others in Canada as to 
killing this niggardly brute. A certain trapper and Indian trader 
informed me some years ago that this black brute is shunned by 
the white man as well as the Indian, that all believe that the 
fortunes of the individuals are affected by the killing of a black 
wolf. 

The White Wolf. 

In former years the white wolf was found to be quite numer- 
ous in Montana, Idaho, Washington, Wyoming and Oregon, but 
of recent years has become almost extinct, at least such are the 
reports from that section, which are confirmed by the exceedingly 
small number of white wolf skins received in this and other prin- 
cipal markets of the United States. They are still quite numerous 
in Alaska and British North America. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers (hiiai,. 11 

The skins are of no great value, being that the pelage is 
coarse, shaggy, and quite often the fur is of a yellowish cast, 
at other times interspersed with grey outer hairs which reduce 
the value of the skin, from the manufacturer's standpoint. The 
brute in size resembles more the buffalo or brush wolf than it 
does the big timber variety. Trappers observed, and Indians 
labored under the impression that a white furred wolf is a freak 
of nature, but their theory is apparently incorrect. Audubon 
says that the white pelage is the result of severe cold. Regnard 
informs us that in Lapland, wolves are almost all of whitish grey 
color ; there are some of them white. In Siberia wolves assume 
the same color. The Alps, on the other hand, by their relation 
may be compared to the region of the Rocky Mountains in 
America. In both countries the wolves become white. When 
Audubon compared specimens from the northern states with 
those of the Alpine regions, he found that both bore strong 
resemblance to each other in form, size, color of their pelage, 
and labored under the impression that there is no good reason 
why the older school of naturalists found distinctive character 
and separated the wolves into different species. Certain tribes 
of Indians were opposed to killing the white wolf, believing 
as they did that by so doing they would incur the ill-will of 
tl.eir gods, etc. 

The Prairie Wolf or Coyote. 

This brute is known the world over and resembles the Euro- 
pean more than any of the other species. In the size and color 
of its pelage notable differences are to be recorded as between 
the animals inhabiting the northern states as compared with 
those of Texas or other southern range states. The former has a 
darker colored fur, and the yellowish cast is less prominent. 
The coat of the latter is coarse, short, somewhat light grey on the 
back and its yellowish cast predominates all over the body 
excepting the back. 

Dr. Coues describes the prairie or barking wolf (Canis la- 
trans) as by far the most abundant carnivorous animal in the 
western states and the coyote is commonly known as a thorough 
nuisance. The following words are borrowed from his works : 

"The coyote theoretically compels a certain degree of ad- 
miration, viewing his irrepressible positivity of character and his 
versatile nature. If his genius has nothing essentially noble or 
lofty about it, it is undeniable that few animals possess so many 
and so various attributes, or act them out with such dogged 
perseverance. Ever on the alert, and keenly alive to a sense 



Andersch Bros.' H unters and Trappers Guide. 79 

of danger, he yet exhibits the coolest effrontery when his path 
crosses ours. The main object of his life seems to be the satis- 
fying of a hunger that is always craving; and to this aim all his 
cunning impudence and audacity are mainly directed. 

"Much has been written concerning the famous polygloi 
serenades of the coyote, by those who have been unwilling 
listeners, but it is difficult to convey an adequate idea in words 
of the noisy confusion. One must have spent an hour or two 
vainly trying to sleep before he is in a condition to appreciate the 
full force of the annoyance. It is a singular fact that tne nowi- 
ing of two or three wolves gives an impression that a score are 
engaged, so many, so long-drawn are the notes, and so unin- 
terruptedly are they continued by one individual after another. 
A short, sharp bark is sounded, followed by several more in 
quick succession, the time growing faster and the pitch higher, 
till they run together in a long-drawn, lugubrious howl in the 
highest possible key. The same strain is taken up again and 
again by different members of the pack, while from a greater 
distance the deep melancholy baying of the more wary lobo 
breaks in, to add to the discord, till the very leaves on the trees 
seem to be quivering to the inharmonious sounds. It is not 
true, as asserted by some, that the coyote howls only just after 
dark and at daylight. Though they may be noisiest at these 
times, when the pack, is gathering together for a night's for- 
aging, or dispersing again to their diurnal retreats, I know 
that they give tongue at any time during the night. They are 
rarely, if ever, heard in the daytime, though frequently to be 
seen, at least in secluded regions. Ordinarily however, they 
spend the day in quiet, out-of-the-way places, among rocks, in 
thick copses, etc., and seek their prey mainly at night, collecting 
for this purpose into packs, as already noticed. 

"The coyote, although a carnivore, is a very indiscriminate 
feeder, and nothing seems to come amiss which is capable of 
being chewed and swallowed. From the nature of the region 
which it inhabits, it is often hard-pressed for food, particularly 
in the winter season. Besides such live game as it can surprise 
and kill, or overpower by persevering pursuit, and force of 
numbers, it feeds greedily upon all sorts of dead animal matter. 
To procure this, it resorts in great numbers to the vicinity of 
settlements, where offal is sure to be found, and surrounds the 
hunter's camp at night. It is well-known to follow for days in the 
trail of a traveling-party, and each morning just after camp is 
broken, it rushes in to claim whatever eatable refuse may have 
been left behind. But it cannot always find a sufficiency of animal 
food, and is thus made frugiferous and herbivorous. Particularly 



80 Andersch Bros/ H uniers and Trappers Guide. 

in the fall, it feeds extensively upon 'tunas,' which are the juicy, 
soft, scarlet fruit of various species of prickly pear (Opuntia) ; 
and in the winter upon berries of various sorts, particularly 
those of the juniper (Juniperus pachyderma), and others. 

"Coyotes are so annoying that a variety of means are used to 
destroy them. They may be shot of course, but to hunt them in 
the daytime is uncertain and hardly worth the trouble, while 
night shooting is still more laborious and unsatisfactory. Their 
cunning, inquiring disposition is ordinarily more than a match 
for man's ingenuity in the way of traps. The most certain, as 
well as the easiest methods of obtaining them is by poisoning the 
carcass of a dead animal or butcher's offal with strychnine. 
There is no doubt, also, that the odor of asafoetida is attractive 
to them, and a little of this drug rubbed into the poisoned meat 
greatly heightens the chances of their eating it. Since, after 
eating the poison, they suffer greatly from thirst, it is well to 
place a tub of water conveniently at hand, which generally keeps 
them from making off for water, and so being lost. There is 
considerable difference in the fur, both as to quality and color, 
according to the season. In the winter it is fuller, thicker and 
softer than in the summer, and has much less tawny or rufous 
about it, being almost black and grizzled, grayish white. 

"Except under certain circumstances, there is a chronic feud 
between our domestic dogs and these dog-wolves. A good-sized 
dog will easily whip a coyote, though he may not come off un- 
scathed from the sharp teeth and quick snaps of the latter. I 
have known a smallish terrier even to kill a coyote, of which he 
caught a throat-hold, enabling him by vigorous shakes to beat 
the wolf's skull against some boulders between which the conflict 
took place. Notwithstanding, there is abundant evidence that 
the coyote will cross, and bear fertile offspring with the do- 
mestic dog; and I believe that the female of either will take the 
male of the other. During the season of heat, which is in the 
spring, I have known dogs to disappear for several days, and 
return in such a dilapidated condition as to leave no doubt 
that they had been decoyed away by some female coyote and 
received hard treatment from her or her relatives. The hybrid 
is said to possess the bad qualities of both parents, and the 
good ones of neither, as usual with bastards, and to remain 
snappish and intractable, in spite of severity or kindness. The 
gestation of the species, as is well-known, does not differ mater- 
ially from that of its allies. It brings forth in May or June, in 
secluded places, usually under or among rocks. Five or six 
puppies are ordinarily produced at a birth. 

"A variety of absurd stories regarding its re-production pass 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 81 

current even among the best-informed backwoodsmen; many 
affirming that the pups are born shapeless, inchoate masses, to 
be afterwards licked into proper shape by the mother." 

The mating season occurs during the spring months, vary- 
ing somewhat upon the altitude and climate. After 60 to 65 
days the mother bears four to eight young. The birthplace is 
usually in a hollow log, cave or burrow, and sometimes in 
dense brushes. The young are born blind and remain in this 
state for a period of twenty-one days. Their growth seems 
retarded until they reach the age of forty-five to sixty days, when 
they develop by astounding degrees. The mother attends to them 
carefully, and her love does not cease until late in the fall when 
the young drift away and begin life upon their own resources. 
In their playful mood they resemble the actions of a litter of pups. 
They bark, bite, and amuse each other in dog fashion. 

The average age of the prairie wolf or coyote is from eight to 
twelve years, though individuals have lived as long as fifteen and 
twenty years. As a rule the large northern timber wolf attains its 
enormous size only after three years and continues, and probably 
not earlier than 10 years does his age begin to show m ms 
tactics, and shortly thereafter he is left behind if he finds himself 
in a chase with younger brutes. 

The female is invariably smaller than the male, and her 
depredations are more noticeable during the season when with 
her young. At times she takes very desperate chances, apparently 
disregarding her usual cautiousness in her endeavor to procure 
food for her young. 






THE FOX FAMILY. 



The Swift or Kitt Fox, The Red Fox, The Grey Fox, The Cross, 

The Silver Grey, The Black Fox, The White or 

Arctic Fox, The Blue Fox. 



THE RED FOX. 

(Gcr. Rot Fuchs, Lot. Vulpcs fulviis.) 




HE American red fox bears close resemblance to 
the European, but one who compares the two to- 
gether will readily note many distinct differences, 
notably the American has a larger body, longer and 
softer fur, and finer and larger tail, and the value 
of the skin is much greater than that of tlie Euro- 
pean specimen. They all belong to the dog or wolf 
family. 

In size the American red fox varies unusually much in the 
ditterent sections; so does its color and length of fur, and the 
value of Its skm diminishes ; or increases, as the case may be 
I he smallest annual is found in the eastern states, while the 
largest makes its home in northern Minnesota, Dakota, in Mani- 
toba, parts of Assiniboia, Alberta and Saskatchewan. The 
latter are not only larger in size, but the fur is much lono-er 
hner, and in color usually two or three shades lighter than that 
of its eastern brethren. 

Probably the largest and best furred skins come from the 
iurtle Mountain regions. The marked variation in color and 
quality of fur on the red fox is entirely due to climatic con- 
ditions. The average red fox will measure 25 to 30 inches in 
length, and its tail, which is bushy, has a white furred tip 
The weight of a northern fox is from 25 to 35 pounds. An 
eastern fox will scarcely weigh more than 20 to 25 pounds. The 
color of its pelage ranges from a deep red to nearly white with 
a yellowish tint. Audubon's description of the animal, is as fol- 
lows : 

"Point of nose, outer extremity of ears, and outer surfaces of 
legs below the knees, bhck; forehead, neck, flanks, and back 
bright reddish, and a little deeper tint on the back and fore- 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 85 

shoulders; around the nostrils, margins of the upper jaw, and 
chin, pure white ; throat, breast and a narrow space on the upper 
surface, dingy white; extreme end of brush slightly tipped with 
white; inner surface of ears, and base of the outer surface, 
yellowish. The hair on body is of two sorts ; long hairs inter- 
spersed among a dense coat of softer, brighter, and more 
yellowish fur; on the tail the longer interspersed hairs are more 
numerous, and many of them are quite black, giving the tail 
a more dusky appearance than rest of the body." 

Dimensions red fox killed in central Minnesota, January, 1905. 

Length, point of nose to root of tail 30 inches. 

Length of tail (vertebrae) 15 inches. 

Length of tail over all 18^2 inches. 

Circumference of body (fur natural) 24 inches. 

Circumference of tail (fur natural) 15 inches. 

Height at shoulders 16 inches. 

|. . .. Notwithstanding the great diversity in the color 
of the animal's fur and other differences in the var- 
ious sections of the United States and Canada, they can all be 
safely included in this species of the red fox. There is probably 
no other animal that is as daring, more cunning, at the same 
time always on the alert, quick of action and keen of smell, as 
Mr. Reynard. 

Being carnivorous and possessing nocturnal habits, he becomes 
a robber of the first magnitude. Like the wolf, when the ground 
is covered with snow, he has difficulty in obtaining sufficient food 
and becomes quite desperate. His food consists of rabbits, mice, 
squirrels and other small quadrupeds. He certainly does not 
neglect grouse, chickens and other birds. The fox is also 
known to frequent ponds and rivers in search of fish and crabs, 
which are rapidly devoured with greatest appetite. Owing to 
their fondness for eggs and poultry, the farmer's barn-yard and 
coops are often frequented. In this respect he is known to be 
a greater robber than the mink, or weasel, and probably more 
harmful than the two just mentioned, or the wolf. If hunger 
is severe decomposed meat, fish and poultry are relished by him. 

Its mode of capturing prey, is numerous, and due to his 
cunning, extreme fine sense of smell and hearing, is able to 
approach and capture his victim, by creeping stealthily within 
springing distances, and like a cat, spring upon it unawares. 
Should the victim be a small animal, such as the mouse, the 
fox will tantalize, tease, maltreat and handle the victim in a 
playish mood, similar to a house cat handling a recently cap- 
tured mouse. 



Andersch Bros/ nuniers and Trappers Guide. S7 

The mating season starts in the early spring, and after an 
expiration of two months, the female brings forth a litter of 
from four to ten young, which are born blind. The mother 
remains steadily with her new-born babes two or three days 
before seeking nourishment. She is extremely fond of her 
young, and protects them against all enemies. Is known to 
carry her young away from their birthplace upon approach oi 
danger. The den is generally well concealed, usually in holes 
dug in the earth, or in rocks and sometimes in hollow trees, 
at other times the birthplace is in dens made by other animals, 
especially the badger, with whom she readily attains great 
friendship. 

In about 25 to 35 days the young will begin to assume grit 
and expose themselves in the sun and play in a frolicsome mood, 
but usually the mother is close at hand, and gives her young the 
advice and protection she affords. Later on the mother will 
take the young for a short stroll, teaching them the art of 
thievery, manner of preying, and when they become five to six 
months old, she leaves them to shift for themselves. 

It is seldom a person is able to approach a fox den, but 
some years ago while in Montana, I was attracted by a peculiar 
noise, and upon investigation found six to eight young, evidently 
awaiting the return of their mother. It is pleasing indeed to 
watch them from a distance, and especially when their mother 
appears with insufficient food for them all. It is to be noted that 
both the mother and father provide food for the young, espec- 
ially will the latter attend himself to the wants of his offspring 
in severe weather. 

The fox has enemies in the wolf and bear, besides man. It 
has not come under my observation that our eagles are of suffi- 
cient boldness to pounce upon a red fox, much less their ability 
to lift a full grown fox with them into the air. The following 
however, is interesting and undoubtedly true. 

Mr. Tschudie, as related by Brehm, states that he personally 
saw a large eagle grab a fox and fly away ; a few minutes there- 
after, the eagle with its prey descended on a ridge, and for 
curiosity's sake was followed by Mr. Tschudie, and, much to 
■his surprise, on his approach the same fox ran past him, and on 
nearing the place of descent found the eagle bleeding furiously 
and unable to alight. The fox had evidently turned the tables 
by twisting, while in the air, and got hold of the eagle by the 
throat, and on the approach of Mr. Tschudie the fox was dis- 
turbed from devouring its former antoganist. 



88 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



THE GRAY (GREY) FOX. 



■ilS"' 




(Vulpes Virginianus.) 



HE gray, like the red fox, is carnivorous, 
nocturnal, more shy and of rather a cowardly 
disposition, is found in all southern, middle, 
western and Atlantic states, scarcely seen in 
the northern states and almost unknown in 
Canada. Although timid and suspicious to a 
greater degree, his cunning and voracity place 
' him in a prominent rank among the animals 
, that prey upon weaker species than them- 
selves. The gray fox, in the eyes of the south- 
ern planter, is what the red fox is to the 
northern farmer. Judging from personal ob- 
servation and contact with these two species, 
and from the best information obtainable coming as it does 
directly from farmers, hunters and trappers, it appears that the 
red fox is far more to be dreaded than the gray ; the latter is a 
pilfering thief, the former a more daring and cunning plunderer. 
In size the gray and red fox are almost identical but variation 
in general construction and in color of pelage covering its 
body, head, legs and tail exists. The chief comparative char- 
acteristics in color, is that the pelage of the gray fox is gray, 
feet, ears and legs red, and while lower portion of the tail is red, 
the upper is invariably black, terminating in a black tip. The 
belly portion is always of a reddish cast, intermingled with three 
or four white blotches, usually one at lower lip and extending 
to neck, another at the animal's chest or between its fore legs and 
the last about the rear flanks. The pelage as a whole is much 
coarser and especially is this true of extreme southern species 
as compared with the red fox. The guard or outer hairs of the 
southern gray fox are harsher, coarser and occasionally bristle- 
like, resembling somewhat in texture and color the outer garment 
of a two-year-old silver tip bear. The gray fox is also known 
under Woods' gray fox. 

In its habits the gray fox resembles its northern breth- 
ren. It lacks boldness, is easily scared and refrains 
from visiting the barnyard to as great an extent as Reynard of the 
north. Inhabiting a more civilized section, and having no severe 
winter to contend with, his food is more easily attainable in the 
open or wooded sections, consequently his depredations and noc- 
turnal visits are less frequent and costly to the inhabitants. His 



Habits. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 89 




winter Scene 



THE GREY FOX 



S. W. states 



favorite place of abode is along thickets, or \n large tufts of 
broom corn. 

He is forced to seek safety frequently in the limbs of trees, 
when hotly pursued by hounds or the hunter. Thus his arboreal 
habits are not natural. Lacking the retractable claws, he nec- 
essarily gains his higher altitude by jumping, catching or pulling 
himself from one limb to another until he has attained a suitable 
position on some obscure limb. Not having personally seen the 
animal climb, I naturally investigated twenty or thirty reports 
from hunters and trappers, and invariably found that the animal 
will not climb trees of its own accord, and only occasionally if 




90 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

chased, will he seek a place of refuge by the unnatural trait of 
climbing. 

The gray fox produces three to five young at a time, and 
these are invariably born during the month of April. Their usual 
abode is in caves, burrows and occasionally in hollow logs. 

THE SWIFT FOX. 

(Kitt Fox, Lat. Vidpcs vclox.) 

HE swift fox is the smallest of all the foxes, and 
strictly a northern species. Judging from the 
number of skins received, the animal must be 
quite numerous in Montana, Idaho, Oregon, 
Washington, and in that part of Canada em- 
bracing British Columbia, Alberta, Assiniboia, 
Saskatchewan, and probably extending to the 
(Jreat Slave Lake. 

In size he is only one-third to one-half that 
of the red fox. A good comparison can be had by viewing the 
stuffed specimen in connection with a red fox, as illustrated else- 
where in this volume. The animal is certainly swift of foot, hard 
to shoot or trap, exceedingly cunning, more so than the red, gray, 
or southern prairie fox. Its pelage is more of a woolly nature, 
topped with gray pointed guard hairs that extend over the fur 
fibers one-quarter of an inch. The belly portion, beginning with 
the under lip and extending to the rear flank, is covered with a 
thin, but long white fur. Its legs are partly covered with white 
and reddish colored fur, the tail, which is eight to ten inches long, 
is less bushy and terminates with black hairs. The animal is very 
cute, neat, and of a pleasing appearance, but when cornered, shows 
his teeth as do the other species. 

Habits Like the other species, the swift fox possesses car- 
nivorous and nocturnal habits, but being of small size 
is obliged to confine his depredations to small animals or birds 
Mr. Twamley advises me from Lethbridge that the swift fox is 
fully as hard, if not harder to trap, than the red, cross or silver 
fox. He further states that many are annually killed with 
poisoned bait. The same gentleman tells me that he is a match 
in swiftness, cunning, sense of sight and smell to the red fox. 
He is certainly sly, and the color of his pelage and smallness of 
body are advantageous in his pursuit of game. 

An interesting narrative of an encounter between a swift fox 
and a large Canadian goose is related by him and is here ap- 
pended. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 91 

"One morning in the early fall, I chanced to observe a very 
interesting battle between a swift fox and a large Canadian 
goose, in which the former, as luck happened, at first won, but 
later paid the penalty. Coming slowly over a hill to a lake known 
to me as a stopping or resting place in the southern flights of 
our large Canadian geese, I perchanced to see a flock of them at 
the extreme edge of the water. Wishing to get closer, I crawled 
upon all fours to a more advantageous position, when to my 
surprise a swift fox jumped from its place of concealment, slight- 
ly elevated, and landed square upon the back of a large gander. 
My first impulse was to fire immediately, but upon second 
thought resolved to await developments. The fox, as noted, 
jumped upon its back, but failed to secure better than a wing 
hold, and being of light weight, the goose had little difficulty in 
its fluttering and attempted flight, to literally dn-g the fox several 
feet further into the water. As luck would have it, the tussel took 
place in very shallow water. After a continued struggle and flut- 
tering, the fox finally secured its desired hold, and the matter, 
so far as the goose was concerned, was a thing of the past. Upon 
being sure that the goose was unable to escape, the fox jumped 
and waded to shore, shook himself, and then again made for the 
goose and slowly dragged it to the shore. At that point I inter- 
fered by discharging the rifle, killing the fox instantly. This 
gave me the fox to skin, and a goose to eat." 

The skin is of small value, seldom exceeding $i.oo in price for 
the best. The average price for years past ranged from 35c. 
to 75c. The season for propogation is in conformity with that 
of other species inhabiting that locality. The abode of the par- 
ents at that period is in caves, burrows, under rocks, seldom in 
hollow trees, and always in some isolated localitv. 




Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 93 

THE CROSS FOX. 

HAT such a fox should be different from what the 
name signifies, would be like calling a half-blood an 
Indian, or an Indian a Caucasian, or vice versa. No 
satisfactory explanation has been given why it is 
that the northern species will interbreed, and' not 
the southern. Of course we all know that the cross 
fox is the probable result of inter-breeding between 
a red and black, or a red and silver. Historians 
fail to state the beginning of this inter-breeding, neither are we as- 
sured just what were the original breeds or species. Perhaps at 
one time there were only black, red and swift foxes ; these three 
seem to possess distinct features. To advance the theory that 
the northern cross fox is closely related to the southern gray fox 
and that the present differences are entirely due to climatic 
conditions covering a period of perhaps 800 to 1,000 years, is in 
line with the modified changes noted even in our own time. What 
old trapper or keen observer has not noted the changes in our cli- 
mate as compared with fifty years ago, likewise changes in the 
color, habits and numerosity of wild animals? 

The writer has personally observed the close relation between 
the cross and silver fox captured recently, and as much as twenty- 
five years ago in the state of Iowa, northern Minnesota, and one 
specimen in particular claimed to have been captured in central 
Illinois. Such an animal or its skin, if placed at a distance of 
ten feet from the observer and not permitting closer examination, 
one who is qualified will be in doubt as to whether the animal or 
skin is a northern silver or a southern gray fox. Qose observa- 
tion, however, will convince that the species is just between the 
two. The size and color are identical. The fur, of course, is 
coarser, and probably not as deep. 

As will be noted, a cross fox is not a distinct species, and that 
in size he resembles the gray, black or silver fox. The pelage 
indicates variable changes, some leaning more towards the red, 
others toward the silver fox. The lower portion of the back, the 
belly and the hips, are usually covered with black fur. In the 
northern latitudes it is to be noted that the cross fox species will 
breed more together than inter-breed with the black, silver, or red. 
fox. The habits are all about the same. 




94 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

THE SILVER GRAY FOX. 

SILVER gray fox is a northern species, scarcely 
*t1^^k' found in the northern states of our Union, more 
ll&SnO^ numerous in Canada. and Alaska, also in other 
ll|mS^ cold sections of the globe, notably in Sib'eria. In 
size, habits, mode of propagation, etc., it re- 
sembles the cross and red fox ; is slightly larger 
than the blue or white fox. Its pelage consists 
of a beautiful coat of silver gray to black fur, 
that in beauty is only next to that of the scarce 
black fox. The price of the skin is graduated by its size, perfect- 
ness, primeness and general appearance, varying upon the quality, 
texture and color of its black fur. The darker furred skin is 
worth more than a lighter. The animal's tail is covered with a 
dense coat of jet black fur. The guard hairs are jet black, lus- 
trous, all pointing away from the body and all toward the white- 
furred tip. 

As noted elsewhere, this species, also that of the cross fox, is 
the result of habitual inter-breeding between the red, black or 
white fox. An instance is cited where a silver fox, with young, 
was captured and placed in confinement. The young were born 
fifteen days thereafter. The old, as well as the young, were 
retained in captivity for years. The following winter after the 
capture, one of the pups had a nice silver pelage, the others re- 
sembled more that of a red fox than anything else. The mother 
was now confined eight months, and the owner deemed it advis- 
able to procure a male, in which he finally succeeded. Upon the 
latter's arrival he was placed in an enclosure adjoining that of 
the female. For a week or so their demeanor was anything but 
friendly to each other. In ten days an opening was made in the 
oartition, through which one could visit the other at their pleasure. 
The visits failed to materialize, at least none were observed. The 
fact that both of the animals were aware of the existing opening 
and that one or the other put his or her head through the open- 
ing, gave us the assurance of their knowledge. Their manner 
while at the opening, however, indicated that entrance was for- 
bidden, or that one or the other expected trouble. After three 
weeks to a month the two became rather friendly at times. Later 
the partition was entirely removed, but even then one would avoid 
the other's company to a greater or lesser extent. But presumably 
during the night or at other times unobserved, they finally became 
friends and enjoved each other's company. The following May 
there were born four young, three of which grew up to nice silver 
foxes, while the fourth was a specimen of a cross fox. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 95 

The fox, as well as all other carnivorous animals can be domes- 
ticated, but this takes time, money and patience, and unless given 
a wide range of freedom, the skins are of little value, even if taken 
'ofif at the right time. 

THE BLACK FOX. 

: ■"-• HIS, one of the Arctic species, is found only in ex- 

*| ^ ">> treme northern latitudes. Northern Canada, Alas- 

^^/ I / ka, Siberia and in some of the Islands of the Al- 

^m Jmn ^^^ eutian Group. Few perfect skins are annually 
BuLZSi^iiH^ marketed. In general appearance the animal re- 
sembles the silver fox, excepting that its pelage 
instead of being of a silvery nature is lustrous black, especially that 
portion about the shoulders. The tail is long, bushy, and all black 
furred, excepting the tip, which is white. Its pelage is soft, sil- 
very, seldom wavy or kinky. Living as they do in isolated places, 
man does not have the opportunity to study their habits, but what 
little is known of them indicates that their chief food is mice, snow 
birds and lemmings. In his persistent pursuit of food, if occasion 
necessitates, crosses rivers and other large bodies of water. Not 
being fastidious in his appetite, he is content with any form of 
flesh food, be it animals, birds or fish. He scarcely ever seeks 
shelter unless pursued by his enemies or on approach of severe 
weather. 

Nothing can be said about his habits that is notably untrue of 
the other Arctic species. All naturalists who have given the sub- 
ject some attention, join in the belief that the black fox is a 
natural species, and not the result of intermediate breeding, as is 
the silver, cross, also the southern gray fox. Hudson Bay fur 
traders, also Indians, as late as 1888, observed large droves or 
packs of black, white, blue and silver foxes, probably the result 
of being chased by wolves, or in quest of food, or other times 
seeking mates, which all seems plausible. 

The animal's abode is usually under some cliff, rocks and in 
burrows. He is successfully raised for the pelt at various places, 
particularly so on some of the small islands forming the Aleutian 
Group. Favorable results are obtained when the animal is per- 
mitted his freedom, and as Elliot, one of the early explorers of the 
Behring Islands informs us "other less valuable fox cannot reach 
this remote island, for not even the ice furnishes them with a 
bridge, and besides this the inhabitants guard against the deterio- 
ration of their foxes, consequently no detrimental cross-breeding 
can take place, and the beauty of the furs, of which the inhabi- 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 97 

tants sell 200 to 300 annually, is beyond reproach and is uni- 
versally acknowledged." 

The breeding season of the Arctic fox begins with April, some- 
times as late as May, and in about sixty days the female gives 
birth to a large litter of cubs, in some cavern, crevice of a rock 
or burrow. As many as ten to twelve young are born annually. 
Her lair is preferably made by her in a mountain side, or at the 
edge of some woody region, which enables the mother to guard 
against approaching danger. Being over-zealous in the care of 
her young, she at times inadvertantly leads the trapper right to 
her abode, by yelping and barking at a distance, undoubtedly with 
the impression of scaring the intruder from the locality. Much to 
the detriment of the mother, as well as the young, these tactics 
are known by the inhabitants, who eagerly search for the place of 
confinement. 

THE BLUE FOX. 

This is strictly an Arctic species, and is found in the same sec 
tions as the white and black fox, apparently distinct from them, 
but resembling them in size and habits. The animal is eagerly 
sought after, as its fur is quite valuable. The notable difiference 
is entirely in the color of its pelage, being of rather indistinct 01 
bluish hue. There are no blue foxes in the United States. 

THE WHITE FOX. 

The white fox is also an Arctic species and inhabits the polar 
regions. It is somewhat smaller than the red fox, also smaller 
than the average silver or black fox and is entirely distinct from 
either of them, but experienced hunters and trappers state that this 
species is sometimes known to live in the same burrow with some 
of the other Arctic foxes. 

Their pelage is of a clear white color, rather compact and 
of a woolly nature. The animal is quite numerous in the extreme 
northern portion; At numerous times individuals and pairs, were 
removed from the extreme north and placed in confinement, but 
the result has been unfavorable, as the fox, like most of the othrr 
species, long for their freedom. 



'^s^i^B^!'^^ 




THE BEAR FAMILY. 

The Black Bear, The Brown Bear, The Cinnamon Bear, The 
Grizzly Bear, The Polar Bear. 

THE BLACK BEAR. 



BLACK bear is the best known species, due to its 
numerosity and wide geographical distribution, 
inhabiting as it does all sections of the globe, ex- 
cepting Australia. It is known by naturalists 
as the Baribal, Muskwa and the Ursus Ameri- 
canus. On this continent the black bear is found 
from the Gulf of Mexico to the Arctic regions 
and from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, dif- 
fering somewhat in size, habits, quality and color 
of its pelage, which variations are entirely trace- 
able to climatic conditions. He resembles the European bear 
very much and the animal's nomenclature is extensive and diver- 
sified, as the knowledge of his existence has reached every tribe 
and nation. Much has been written about the black bear that 
has made him very popular, his ferocious habits have at times been 
ignored and at other times largely exaggerated. 

The black bear of the north is much larger, stronger, ferocious 
to a greater degree, and his pelage, especially during the winter 
months, is much more valuable as compared with his southern 
brethren. A full-grown northern black bear will weigh 500 to 
650 pounds, while the large yearling or two-year-old will com- 
pare favorably in size and weight with a full grown southern 
species, ranging from 250 to 400 pounds. Hunters relate that 
during the '6o's, also early '70's of the past century, black bears 
were killed that weighed as high as 750 pounds in the dense pine 
forests of Minnesota, Wisconsin and Michigan. The average 
yearling black bear of the north would measure forty to forty-five 
inches, when two years old, fifty to sixty inches, and when full- 
grown six to seven feet long from tip of nose to root of tail. The 
ears are small and well rounded, being covered with a short, black 
fur, the eyes are exceedingly small, while the snout is short and in 
general the head is smaller in proportion to that of the brown or 
grizzly bear. Its legs are strong, while its feet are large, the latter 
possessing each, five long, but dull and almost immovable and un- 
retractable claws. Thirty-five to thirty-seven monstrous looking 
teeth are firmly set in its jaws and the animal's power in its mouth 
is tremendous. Its lustrous black fur is from three to five inches 

LOFC. 



100 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



in length, the undergrowth about two-thirds of the latter size. 
The latter quite often is wavy and instead of being glossy has a 
dull appearance ranging from a deep brown to a jet black. The 
fur is evenly distributed over the skin, but gradually tapers as the 
body terminates into legs, head and tail. Oftentimes the guard 
hairs about the hips become rabbed and the fur matted. The 
latter then becomes of a woolly appearance, 

L, . . That the animal pos:esses carnivorous as well as om- 
nivorous habits, cannot be denied, feeding as he does 
indiscriminately upon vegetation, such as grass, fruits, leaves, and 
when opportunity presents upon poultry, sheep, veal, rabbits and 
deer. Occasionally when his ferocious nature is aroused will cap- 
ture and kill other live stock and many instances can be recited 




Michigan 



EIACK BEAR 

In a No. 5 Newhouse bteel Trap 



From a Photo 



where the brute turned to cannibalism, although this action on the 
part of the animal is rare. Honey is eagerly sought by all of 
these species, and probably nothing is more pleasing to them than 
to discover a beehive. His sitting, sliding, scratching, hugging, 
tumbling habits, and the brute's aptitude of walking erect on his 
rear legs when approaching man. also his peculiar way of swing- 
ing his head when leisurely strolling, are his chief characteristics 
and of course these are well known to those who have come in 
contact with the black bear. His habitual sitting up on his rear 
haunches, invariably destroys the value of the skin for robe and 
rug purposes, also for the taxidermist. The fur about the hips 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. lot 



becomes badly rubbed, matted, and of a woolly appearance. Dur- 
ing the winter months the animal is conspicuous by its absence, 
being in some den partaking of the winter sleep. The extent, dur- 
ation and period of this hibernating habit depends largely upon the 
weather, surroundings, food supply, and upon the animal him- 
self; sometimes lasting three to four weeks, at other times as 
many months. Quite often during mild and thawy weather, the 
bear will awake from his winter slumbers and seek food and drink. 
When his appetite and thirst are satisfied he may re-enter his den 
and remain there for weeks, at other times he refuses to re-enter 
and immediately begins looking for prey, and being emaciated and 
run down, his requirements are large in that respect. 

Bears held in captivity, unless exposed to the elements and 
in some large, roomy locality, with all the natural surroundings, 
will lose their hibernating habit. Occasionally in his wild state 
and in his natural home, he will neglect to partake of this periodi- 
cal winter sleep. This brute is an expert swimmer, fairly good at 
climbing, and it takes a good man to run away from him if the 
animal becomes enraged. While the cubs and young bears hab- 
ituallv climb trees, the old ones very rarely climb them unless in 
search of food and then they quite often tumble to the earth on 
account of the claws being dull. Nature has provided him with all 
the facilities for escape that man has, being equal to the average 
man in running, climbing and swimming, hence if pursued the 
chances of escape are somewhat dubious unless backed with lots 
of nerve and good weapons. 

The female brings forth a litter of two, three or four, occa- 
sionally five, and rarely one cub. The cave or den, where the 
mother raises her children, is generally warm, being padded with 
dry leaves, grass or other vegetation and is usually on the sunny 
side of some hill or mountain. The den is generally in som6 
inscrutable place with impervious surroundings, which obstacles 
the hunter readily overcomes by manifold methods. In such cases 
the female will carry the young away to another obscure locality, 
sometimes a distance of three or four miles. While so engaged, 
should she meet the intruder, and cannot readily proceed in her 
wishes, she will turn upon the hunter, showing fight, especially if 
previously molested. Regardless of their clumsy construction 
they can outrun the pursuer, and it is not an easy matter to escape 
from this animal after he or she is enraged and turns upon the 
pursuer. 




102 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Tra ppers Guide. 

THE BROWN BEAR. 

This brute is about extinct in the Appalachian chain of moun- 
tains and is now sparingly found east of the Rockies, more numer- 
ous in some of the western states, about the Sierra Nevadas, Cas- 
cade mountains and along the Rocky mountains extending from 
New Mexico to Alaska. Idaho, Washington, Oregon and Mon- 
tana have lately furnished most of the skins, but the animal is 
probably more numerous in British Columbia than anywhere else 
on this continent. This species is more or less confused with the 
cinnamon bear, which it closely resembles. Great variation in size, 
strength, ferocity and color of its pelage exists, due to the vast 
territory and the marked changes in climatic conditions. The 
northern animals are by all means the strongest, heaviest and 
probably more ferocious than their southern brethren. As com- 
pared with the black bear the brown bear is about his equal in size, 
but in certain localities, especially in British Columbia, the brown 
bear attains an enormous size exceeding in that respect the black 
bear by loo to 250 pounds. 

The fur of the southern brute is coarse, uneven, shaggy, harsh, 
less dense, and in color ranges from a dirty yellow to a light 
brown, and such skins are of little value, even when prime. The 
pelt of the northern brute is quite valuable, especially that from 
the two-year-old or three-year-old animal. The older the animal 
the coarser the fur, and consequently the skin is of less value un- 
less it is extremely large and suitable for specimen purposes. The 
fur of the three-year-old animal is from three to five inches long, 
quite often of a wavy appearance, soft, mellow, and in color rang- 
ing from a light brown to a deep, rich, dark brown. Two beauti- 
ful colored and furred skins, coming probably from two-year-old 
animals, are before me now. In length the fur is seven to seven 
one fourth inches, in color light brown, with the inner fur two or 
three shades still lighter. The fur fibers are wavy, silky, mellow, 
and in general the skins are very beautiful. The animals from 
which they were taken were killed in the Caribou mountains of 
Athabasca, Canada. As to their habits, there is no distinct dif- 
ference between this species and the black bear. 

THE CINNAMON BEAR. 

The cinnamon bear (Ursus Cinnamoneous) is found rather 
sparingly on this side of the Canadian line, although quite a num- 
ber are annually dispatched in the mountainous regions along the 
Rocky and Cascade mountains in the states of Montana, Wyoming, 
Washington, Idaho and Oregon. The brute is more numerous on 
the Canadian side following the Rocky Mountain chain clear up 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 103 

to Alaska. This is not an Arctic species as some suppose, neither 
is the animal found as far south as the brown bear. Being more 
of a northern species it is quite natural that the animal is large, 
strong, robust and ferocious, and it is not surprising at all that 
the Indians consider it a feat second in importance when a brave 
succeeds in killing a large cinnamon brute to that of the famous 
grizzly. The cinnamon bear is more or less confused with the 
brown bear. As will be observed he is of larger stature, and in- 
stances are recorded where the animal attained the enormous size 
comparatively with the grizzly bear. 

Its pelage, as its name implies, is of a dark brown, resembling 
the color of cinnamon bark. The fur of a medium aged animal 
is soft, mellow and three and one half to four inches long. The 
body is well and evenly covered with rather a dense coat which be- 
comes shorter as the body terminates into the head, legs and tail. 
Occasionally skins are received where the fur is much longer, on 
the other hand the fur of the older animals is short, harsh and 
rather uneven. 

A certain Mr. McDonald, a member of the mounted police in 
Canada, witnessed a fierce combat between a cinnamon and a black 
bear. The former became the victor only after four to six hours 
of the fiercest combat probably ever witnessed by man. Being so 
evenly matched, no apparent advantage was gained by either one 
over the other, until the black bear was unfortunate in being rolled 
into a rapidly-flowing creek, and being fairly exhausted and held 
down by the weight of the brown bear, it required comparatively 
only a few minutes until the black bear was drowned. In describ- 
ing the fight he states that it resembled that between two huge 
dogs, biting, growling, scratching, hugging, rolling, etc. The 
noise these brutes made while so engaged was indescribable. In 
habits, the animals dififer slightly, if any, from the black, brown 
and grizzly bear. 





An dersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 105 

THE GRIZZLY BEAR. 



HIS monster inhabits strictly mountainous 
regions and is now sparingly found in the 
United States. Vv'as formerly in large num- 
bers in Montana, Wyoming, Oregon, 
Washington and southward along the Rocky 
and Cascade mountains. He is numerously 
found in British Columbia where a large 
specimen was recently captured weighing 2,800 to 3,000 pounds. 
He is also found in the extreme northern parts of Canada, and in 
Alaska. The largest skin that came to my notice measured eleven 
feet, three inches in length and average width of seven feet and s'x 
inches. The fur on this skin was poor, he being killed during the 
early fall months when the skin and the fur were unprime. 

The pelage of the grizzly bear varies greatly in color, so much 
so indeed that naturalists as well as the fur trade divide the 
species into two grades, the grizzly and silver tip. The outer 
garment of the former is dark grey to black, with interspersed 
grey or silver hairs. The fur is shaggy, harsh, uneven, and espe- 
cially is this true of the older animals, while the fur of the younger 
brutes is even, somewhat fine, rather dense, and two and a half 
to three and a half, possibly four inches long. The fur of the 
silver tipped bear skin is more even, and tends toward a greyish 
color with white silvery tipped hairs, rather evenly dispersed and 
prominently predominating, making the skin rather beautiful as 
well as serviceable. Occasionally the fur on the latter is of a 
dark, steel grey, with interspersed white tipped hairs. Only the 
skins that are prime are of any value, as summer skins are unfit to 
be tanned and can only be used for specimen purposes. This 
brute is sometimes confused with the cinnamon, also the brown 
bear, of which he is their master. The animal has enormous 
strength in his legs and jaws, and with apparent ease is able to 
drag a horse or cow for miles. His collossal weight and size en- 
ables him to subdue any and all wild animals which inhabit this 
globe and in a probable encounter with the African lion or the 
huge elephant he would come off the victor. 

The fur on this monster carnivorous brute is of a shaggy ap- 
pearance. The word "grizzly" is justified in describing the con- 
dition of the fur of the old species, probably more so than the 
two to four-year-old brutes. The color of its pelage varies, not 
only in the different sections but also in the animal's age. The 
older the brute the more shaggy, grizzly and faded the fur. 



106 Andersch Bros.* Bunters and Trappers Guide. 

THE POLAR BEAR. 

The polar bear ranks second, if not first in size of all the var- 
ious species of the bear family. He inhabits the extreme polar 
regions where ice prevails the year round. By no means does he 
alone belong to the Western hemisphere, as he is found on three 
continents. On this continent the polar bear is found about the 
eastern coast along the Baffin Bay, north of Hudson Bay Strait 
and across the continent to Alaska. 

Its pelage consists of a coarse coat of yellowish white fur of 
various length ; but that of the body is usually three to four inches 
long. The ears are short, neck rather long, body long in propor- 
tion to its height and has unusually long feet. The claws are 
heavy and not so stubby as those of the land species. In his habits 
he varies somewhat from the other strictly land species, being that 
he is confined to the extreme northern regions the year round, 
living as he does amongst ice, often obliged to procure his only 
food from the deep seas. This bear like all others is carnivorous, 
also possesses omnivorous habits, and devours with voracity the 
carcasses of whales that drift ashore ; in fact devours all dead 
animals that the waves hurl against the icy shores of the Arctic 
region. 

Capt. Lyons describes the polar bear at full speed, "as a kind 
of shuffle as quick as the sharp gallop of a horse." Quite often 
the animal swims off to floating ice or to icebergs and is carried 
with them hundreds of miles in the direction that the wind hap- 
pens to be blowing. Capt. Peary reports that the Esquimaux 
on the coast of Mellville Peninsula attain part of their subsistence 
from the flesh of the female bear, which they dig out from the 
snow. Mr. Graham states that the female retires to her winter 
quarters in November, where she lives without food until she 
brings forth usually two cubs about Christmas time. The cubs 
in size resemble those of a shepherd dog. The offspring, es- 
pecially if tired, ascends the animal's back, where they ride se- 
curely, either in water or shore. The following report from Capt. 
Lyons is interesting: 

"At the commencement of winter the pregnant bears are very 
fat, and always solitary. When a heavy fall of snow sets in, the 
animal seeks some hollow place in which she can lie down and 
remain quiet, while the snow covers her. Sometimes she will 
wait until a quantity of snow has fallen, and then digs herself a 
cave; at all events it seems necessary that she should be covered 
by, and lie amongst, the snow. She now goes to sleep, and does 
not wake until the spring sun is pretty high, when she brings 
forth two cubs. The cave by this time has become much larger 



Andersch Bros.* Hunters and Trappers Guide. 107 

by the effect of the animal's warmth and breath, so that the cubs 
have room to move, and they acquire considerable strength by 
continually sucking. The dam at length becomes so thin and weak 
that it is with great difficulty she extricates herself, when the sun 
is powerful enough to throw a strong glare through the snow 
which roofs the den. The Esquimaux affirms that during this 
long confinement the bear has no evacuations, and is herself the 
means of preventing them by stopping all the natural passages 
with moss, grass, or earth. The natives find and kill the bears 
during their confinement by means of dogs, which scent them 
through the snow, and begin scratching and howling very eager- 
ly. As it would be unsafe to make a large opening, a long trench 
is cut of sufficient width to enable a man to look down and see 
where the bear's head lies, and he then selects a mortal part, into 
which he thrusts his spear. The old one being killed, the hole 
is broken open, and the young cubs may be taken out by the hand, 
as, having tasted no blood, and never having been at liberty, they 
are then very harmless and quiet. Females, which are not preg- 
nant, roam throughout the whole winter in the same manner as 
the males. 




Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 109 

THE RACCOON. 

(Ger. Waschbar, Lat. Procyon loter.) 

HE raccoon is a native of North America, belongs 
to the bear family, and is somewhat related to the 
South America species better known as the crab- 
eating raccoon. This animal has all the good, and 
nearly all the bad habits that any other fur-bearing 
animal possesses. He is an expert climber, very 
good at swimming, a fairly swift runner and expert fighter, and 
his nocturnal and omnivorous habits are only too well known 
to the hunter and trapper. He is found in almost every state 
and territory of the union. Probably more so in the southern 
states than in the western or northern. He is scarcely found 
in Canada, although he does exist in the southern portion thereof. 
Under no circumstances is he an Arctic species and is not found 
in that region at all ; in fa.t, he does not inhabit any section in 
which the polar bear is found. 

The body of the raccoon is thick, plump and resembles that of 
the badger, although being shorter and differently furred, and his 
body is elevated four or five inches higher than that of the badger. 
Climatic conditions are responsible for the marked variations of 
the animal as compared with those inhabiting the northern, west- 
ern, eastern and southern parts of the United States. While a 
full-grown northern raccoon will weigh twenty-five to thirty-five 
pounds and the body measures from twenty-two to twenty-eight 
inches in length, to which a tail of five to seven inches is attached, 
the extreme southern species will rarely exceed twenty pounds in 
weight, its body only measuring sixteen to twenty inches in 
length. While the former possess a coat of dark, dense, and 
rather fine fur, the latter has a thin, coarse and light-colored 
pelage. The tail is covered with dense fur of the ring formation. 
The rings change in color, alternating with the predominating 
color of its body. 

The fur of the first above species as noted, is very dark, long, 
comparatively fine and the inner coat resembles that of the beaver, 
being dark brown, wavy and very dense. The outer guard hairs 
are black to dark brown in color, and extend on an average of one- 
half inch above the fur fibers. The prime northern skins can be 
used for various purposes, the principal use being in the manufac- 
ture of fur coats. The best skins arc probably picked out, plucked, 
dyed, or used natural, to imitate beaver. The pelage of the south- 
ern species is lighter in color, often of a brown leaning towards a 




Northern States RACCOONS AT HOME TakenSfrom a Photograph 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. Ill 

reddish hue, and the fur is more thinly distributed as compared 
with that of the northern species. The skins of the southern, 
middle and western states are chiefly used for gentlemen's over- 
coats. 

The best skins for this purpose come from a section of Mis- 
souri, where particular attention is paid to the handling of them 
and are commercially known as "New Madrid Skins." These 
skins are handled largely by negroes who are specially educated 
in taking the skins off the animals and the stretching and drying 
of same to the best possible advantage for themselves and the man- 
ufacturer. As the animal is found in all states and territories of 
the union, with the exception of Alaska, an exceedingly large 
number of skins are annually marketed and consumed. It is var- 
iously estimated that 3,000,000 to 4,000,000 skins are annually 
marketed. The city of St. Louis is the leading market for the 
southern raccoon skins, while Minneapolis and St. Paul are the 
leading markets for the northern raccoon skins. 

Habits ^^^ animal possesses nocturnal and omnivorous habits, 
is an excellent swimmer and climber, and if chased 
will cover a considerable space in a remarkably short time, and 
when opportunity presents will seek shelter in a tree or in a hol- 
low log, and with swiftness and precision will jump from one tree 
to another, and if occasion demands from the extreme height of 
the tree immediately to the ground, alighting on its feet, and cat- 
like fashion attempt to decamp to a place of safety unless detained 
by the dogs or hunter. . 

His food consists chiefly of nuts, grapes, fruit, vegetables and 
eggs. "He can be seen in the evening rambling about marshes and 
streams in search of frogs, fish and turtles, and at night will chase 
mice, rats, birds, as well as rabbits. Besides these he readily con- 
sumes vast quantities of vermin, bugs, crabs, etc. The poultry 
yard is often visited, and nothing is more pleasing to him than 
some domesticated animal, such as the pigeon, chicken, duck, and 
the large goose is not objected to by him. Not only is he fond 
of the meat, but considers eggs a greater dainty and repast. The 
egg is artistically held in his long paws, is broken with his mo^ith 
and the contents gradually sucked out. He possesses the peculiar 
habit of dipping his foot into the water and then rubbing it bet- 
ween his fore paws to wash it. This is one of his playing at- 
titudes. He is auite often seen about streams and water where 
the chief part of his food is found. He takes especial delight in 
reaching out his paw for shining objects or articles in the water, 
such as a tin can, piece of glass, broken mirror, etc. If the 
article is unprocurable with his paws, he readily dives for it. 
The old as well as the young are of a playful disposition resemb- 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide, 113 

ling somewhat the fox or the bear. He is a keen observer, and 
it is a pleasure to watch him when he is playfully inclined. 

He is a cheerful, handsome and lively fellow. His bear-likt 
gait with his head swinging one way and then another and with 
his high arched back and drooped tail, makes a pleasing picture; 
but upon the slightest disturbance or the discovery of some scent, 
his interest immediately is aroused and especially if he perceives 
some harmless animal. He at once pricks up his ears, listens, 
sometimes stands erect on his legs, and swiftly darts after the ob- 
ject, while if fooled, he may revert his disposition to a playful 
mood and dart upon some tree with an agility for which one 
would hardly have given him credit. Frequently one can see him 
running on a horizontal branch like a sloth or a monkey, with 
body hanging downward. He is fond of playing tricks and is very 
often inclined towards an inquisitive and mischievous nature. The 
animal can be tamed if captured young, and if successful the ef- 
fort is rewarded by his constant cheerful disposition and ever 
giving enjoyment to the children. He enjoys being petted, and 
becomes much attached to persons. Of the qualities of the 
raccoon, Mr. Beckman has the following to say: 

"An animal of unlimited inquisitive intrigue and obstinacy, 
with a tendency to search all nooks and corners. In sharp con- 
trast to these qualities he also possesses coolness, self restraint, 
and marked sense of humor. His contending obstinacy often 
naturally brings about the queerest results as he realizes the 
impossibility of attaining any special object he has been striving 
for ; the fiercest ferocity gives place to an apathetic indifference, 
and obstinate perseverance changes into resignation. On the other 
hand he often passes quite unexpectedly from a lazy sulkiness, 
into the best of spirits by turning a somersault, and in spite 
of all self-restraint and sagacity, commits the most serious 
blunders when once his desires have been attained." 

The raccoon not only furnishes a skin that is valuable, but his 
flesh is also eaten by many southern people. During the latter 
part of April or Mav the mother will bring forth a litter from 
four to six young. The home is in some hollow tree or fallen 
log. The young attain their majority not earlier than two years, 
but are largely placed upon their own resources as soon as they 
are able to depart from their place of birth ; although the mother 
will assist them more or less until the beginning of fall when they 
are able to care for themselves without her assistance. It is very 
amusing to see the mother followed by her offspring in search 
of food, and especially if the mother is fortunate in obtaining 
some live animal, and under her supervision the animal is teased, 
maltreated and finally devoured by the young. 




114 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

THE RING TAIL CAT. 

(Lat. Lemur.) 



HIS species belongs to the monkey family and is 
the only one in the United States whose fur 
skin has a market value and that is commer- 
cially used by the fur trade. The animal in- 
habits the extreme southern parts of the 
United States, Texas, southern part of New 
Mexico, Arizona and parts of California, but 
principally in Texas and Mexico. From these 
sections the skins are distributed throughout 
the remaining states and territories, bein-^^ 
marketed in the principal fur-centers of the 
United States, vast numbers reaching Minne- 
apolis and many finding their way to London 
where large numbers of skins are annually 
oflfered at the auction sales. 

Its feet raise the body, which is twelve to fourteen inches 
long, about three inches from the ground. The tail, in alternate 
rings of black and white, is the most prominent feature, not only 
because of its particular markings, but by reason of its length 
and peculiarly bushy appearance; also that the length corre- 
sponds, or nearly so, with that of the body. Its hands resemble 
those of the common monkey with almost perfect fingers. The 
color of the body is of a grey to dirty yellow intermingled with 
darker guard hairs. The belly portion is always lighter, and the 
fur is soft and absorbs dye very readily. 

Years ago there was no demand for these skins, but during 
the past five years manufacturers who experimented with them, 
found many places where the skins could be advantageously used, 
and at present the hunter or trapper receives a fair remuneration, 
ranging from 15c to 40c per skin. A full-grown ring tail cat 
will weigh three to four pounds. 

Its general characteristics and habits are like those of 
the monkey, and is closely related to the lemur tribe 
of Madagascar and similar species in the West Indies. Natural- 
ists claim that this lemuroid is the connecting link between the 
monkey and Marsupialia family (pouch animal), imagining them 
to be the successors of a genus of unknown animal of the same 
family as the opossum. Their large eyes are especially adapted 
for use at night and their well-developed ears and soft, thick, 



Habits. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



115 



woolly fur, characterize the lemuroids extremely as nocturnal 
animals. Their chief food is insects, frogs, mice, also certain 
vegetables. Apparently the animal prefers the impenetrable 
virgin wood, which is rich in fruits and insects to that of the! 
ordinary timber section or open land. 





- ""^-g^^g 






■■'-t 




■ ^ 1 

fx- 


^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^^K^wS^^^^pi^ ^^^ 


,,-. 








^^TC-i 


'^fv 


kf^rs^ao^ 





From Original 
Drawing 



THE RING TAIL CAT 



Owned by 
Andersch Bros. 




T9E OFOSS^TM AND HEI^ FAMJI,T From a Photojfrapb 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. ll7 

THE OPOSSUM. 

(Virginian Opossum. Lat. Didelphys marsupialis.) 

This omnivorous animal has also carnivorous and arboreal 
habits and belongs to the marsupial family, and in form resembles 
a rat, some say a pig. His head is long, rather conical, snout 
long and pointed. The body is stout, clumsy, and especially so 
during the early winter months. The saying that "a person is as 
fat as an oppossum," is a true reflection to the opossum, as the 
animal is abundantly possessed with surplus fat during the winter 
months. 

The body measures sixteen to twenty inches in length, with 
a tail denuded of fur almost of equal length. The tail is eminently 
prehensile, covered with scales, and that portion nearest the body 
with a slight growth of intermingled hairs. The following de- 
scription is taken from Audubon : 

"Nails of moderate length, curved ; inner toe on the posterior 
extremities destitute of a nail and opposable to the other toes, 
thus forming a kind of hand. Tail, which may be considered a 
useful appendage to the legs in aiding the motions of the animal, 
prehensile and very strong, but capable of involution only on the 
under side, long, round and scaly, covered with a few coarse 
hairs for a few inches from the base, and the remainder with 
here and there a hair scattered between. Soles of the hind feet, 
covered with large tubercles. The female is furnished with a 
pouch containing thirteen mammae arranged in a circle, with one 
in the center." 

The animal's winter pelage consists of a coat of fur re- 
sembling in color somewhat that of the badger, being of a mixed 
character, consisting of an undergrowth of fine, close, woolly 
texture of whitish color, from which protrudes a less dense series 
of long, distinct, thick, harsh, rather brittle-like hairs ; the latter 
always a few shades darker and sometimes black tipped. The 
fur fibers are white next to the skin, but gradually become darkei. 
and in sections the tips are black ; in other sections of a brownish 
or reddish cast. The young differ somewhat in color from th^ 
old, are more uniformly lighter in color, but the fur becomes 
darker and assumes its natural state in the lapse of six to nine 
months. The meat is consumed by many trappers, especially so 
by the colored people, who prefer a fat, plump, roasted opossum 
to any other meat; the animal is hunted by this race to a great 
extent, not only for the meat, which they consider delicious, but 
also for the skin, which, if prime, commands a ready market. 




From Original Paintinsr 
Owned by Auderscb Bros. 



THE OPOSSUM 



Southern States 
One year old 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Quide. 119 

Habits ^^^ animal is detested by the agriculturist, the fruit- 
grower and the poultry farmer. Being a good climber 
he is able to hold his weight by encircling the limb with his tail 
and springing from one branch to another in monkey fashion. 
He is slightly awkward on the ground, his movements apparently 
lazy, his walk plantigrade, and at times the running gait re- 
sembles a series of ambling leaps. His great toes and hind paws 
enable him to grasp and hold firmly to the limbs of trees, while 
his prehensile tail assists the animal to secure a desired position 
and immunity from falls. He is able to suspend himself by 
means of his tail for hours at a time. His constant, fastidious 
appetite is not confined entirely to flesh, as the animal will devour 
quantities of fruit, vegetables and other vegetation. His favorite 
passages are along fences and creeks, where the frogs afford him 
a tolerable repast. 

He is very tenacious of life, and resorts to simulation when 
very hard pressed. At times he will roll up like a ball, at other 
times lie silently, feigning death. Many a farmer in capturing 
the thief in his poultry yard, gives the animal one or more sharp 
raps on the head or body, knocking it down, in which position 
with open jaws, extended tongue and dimmed eyes, he will feign 
death; the farmer in many instances carries the apparently dead 
opossum in the house, shows it to the family and lays it aside 
with the intention of skinning, and probably eating his meat, only 
to find later that he has regained his liberty. Apparently the 
animal prefers darkness to light. He sleeps through the day in 
the holes in the earth or hollow trees and lives with his mate only 
during the pairing time, leading a solitary life during the rest 
of the year. It has no fixed habitation, but uses any cranny 
which it descries in the morning after completing its nocturnal 
wanderings. In the early morning the opossum is especially 
in quest of some burrow inhabited by some weaker rodent, thus 
obtaining food and a day's rest without great effort, and is free 
of all concern until the approach of another night. 





Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 121 

THE MUSKRAT. 

(Ger. Bisamratte. Lat. Fiber zihethicus.) 



EARLY historians bethought a muskrat to be 
an overgrown water-rat, but such is not the case, 
although the above animal belongs to the same 
family. In their habits they bear close relation 
to the beaver, and certain Indian tribes always 
considered the beaver to belong to the muskrat 
family, but being older and somewhat overgrown. The head and 
body is twelve to sixteen inches long, and covered with rich, 
brown, soft fur, which becomes more dense on the belly bui 
assumes a much lighter color on that portion of the body. In 
appearance the fur is very similar to that of the beaver, but 
lacking in fineness, wavy appearance, also in length. The guard 
hairs are a few shades darker and one-quarter to three-eighths 
of an inch longer than the undergrowth or fur fibers proper. 
Marked differences in size and quality of the fur, due to climatic 
and geographical variations, are notable characteristics. The 
muskrats inhabiting Wisconsin, Michigan and eastern states, also 
eastern Canada, are superior in size, and the fur is much richer 
than those inhabiting Minnesota, Dakota, Iowa, Montana and 
the western portion of Canada. Besides differences due to 
climatic conditions above enumerated, the color of the fur varies 
from a light brown to an extreme black, also \n fineness and 
density. The black-furred musquash (or better known as musk- 
rat) inhabits a section along the Atlantic ocean, rangmg irom 
Virginia to Connecticut. 

The body is plump and rather cylindrical in form, the small 
head is attached to an extremely short and rather indistinct neck ; 
only the hind feet are webbed and turn obliquely inwards. By 
observing them in action one is reminded of the foot of a duck 
or goose when swimming. The tail is eight to ten inches long, 
rather two-edged and rudder-shaped, and is covered with scales 
intermingled with hair, the edges being rather heavily fringed. 
The tail has no commercial value, and in that respect differs 
entirely from that of the mink, fisher, otter and other fur-bearing 
animals, excepting the beaver. The hind feet are webbed and 
used in swimming, the tail, when not used as a rudder, lies mo- 
tionless below the level of the water. The muskrat is an ex- 
cellent swimmer and diver and their endurance in water is espe- 
cially notable. 



122 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

The muskrat is at home in North America and covers a vast 
territory from the Atlantic to the Pacific ocean, from the Gulf of 
Mexico to the Arctic regions, probably excepting the alluvial 
lands of Florida, Alabama, Georgia, and, perhaps certain parts 
of Carolina. In winter time they live in houses built by them- 
selves in the fall months. The home is dome-shaped and is built 
from weeds, plants, and sticks, that are firmly held in place by 
being interwoven and puttied together with mud, or a peculiar 
sort of gluey substance. The entrance is below the water surface, 
thus the animals are protected against rough weather and the 
cold. The houses vary considerably in size and height ; while 
some are only six inches above the water, others protrude three 
to four feet above the level. The large houses are four to 
five feet in diameter. The muskrat will usually build his house in 
shallow water, fifty to one hundred yards from the shore, often 
in marshes and ponds. In some places the houses are built on 
land, and occasionally their abode is in hollow trees and in holes 
made in the earth close to the shore ; in most cases the entrance 
into such abodes is below the water level. 

L, ... The habits of the muskrat are strictly amphibious and 
nocturnal, although it at times becomes visible during 
the daytime, feeding, playing or swimming from one place to 
another. His food consists chiefly of grass, roots, clams, mussels, 
flesh, garden vegetables and fruit, especially apples. The musk- 
rat is very prolific, bringing forth five to ten young at a birth, 
and as often as three times a year. It seems that this species 
mature quickly as the female of the first litter becomes pregnant 
and bears young before the expiration of ten months, although 
the latter perish in large numbers, perhaps more so should the 
winter be severe from the start and the food supply short; also 
due to their youth and lack of judgment in getting away from 
the depredations of the mink and other animals. Their chief 
enemies are the mink, otter, beaver; but what wild animal pur- 
suing carnivorous habits will not consume the flesh of the musk- 
rat, and most of them relish the meat admirably. 

The animal provides himself with a large food supply, which 
is gathered by all the members of a family during the fall months 
and carried by them into their abode. This food is stored on 
special shelves provided for this purpose; other shelves are 
provided in their dome-shaped houses upon which the animal 
rests, sleeps, or spends his time while in the abode. Many be- 
lieve that the animal remains in the water constantly, but this 
is not true. Should their home be disturbed, be the intruder an 
animal or trapper, the muskrat will immediately plunge into 
the water from its resting place on the shelf and depart into one 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Chiide. 123 

of the openings below the water level and swim rapidly away to 
some known destination, or simply try to escape. 

In the event that the water on the outside is frozen, artificial 
breathing is resorted to ; this mode of breathing is very inter- 
esting and particularly so to those not acquainted with this 
habit. Under normal conditions, should the animal desire to 
depart from its abode, it makes a special effort to supply itself 
with a quantity of fresh air, and immediately plunges into the 
water, swimming rapidly below the ice as far as the supply of 
air permits. He will then place his mouth and nose very close 
to the ice, lie perfectly motionless, expelling the air from his 
lungs, which immediately forms bubbles. The air thus assumes 
a fresh supply of oxygen, and the animal will swim from one 
bubble to another, inhaling the fresh supply of air, and when the 
bubbles are all gone, depart for its destination. This operation is 
repeated every two or three minutes. Should the animal be dis- 
turbed while in the act of breathing and be separated from the 
supply of fresh air, he will drown. Hunters and trappers ac- 
quainted with this artificial breathing on the part of the muskrat, 
will often rob the animal of his air. The operation is as follows : 

When the ice is of sufficient thickness, the trapper with a cane 
will slowly walk to one of these dome-shaped abodes, and with 
his stick, give it one or more sharp raps. If the house is in- 
habited, he will hear a splash when the animal plunges from the 
shelf into the water. With his eye he will follow the course of' 
the animal, and just as soon as the muskrat is in want of a fresh 
supply of air, he will permit it to rise next to the ice, when he 
will separate the animal from the air by disturbing it while in 
the operation of breathing. The muskrat, of course, will depart 
immediately, but only for a short distance, when he again seeks 
to obtain air; the trapper follows, repeating his operation and 
probably by the third attempt, the muskrat, deprived of air, will 
drown. All this takes place in a few moments. The drowned 
muskrat will of course float next to the ice, when the trapper 
makes a hole and removes the body. 

Their houses are so constructed that this method of artificial 
breathing is not resorted to, as a sufficient supply of fresh air 
prevails the year round. The abode must be very warm as the 
water therein does not become frozen. Presumably the animal 
has some way of keeping the water from freezing in the abode; 
otherwise they would be prisoners since the only openings are 
below the water level. 




Andersch Bros/ H unters and Trappers Guide. 125 

THE BEAVER. 

(Ger. Biber, Lat. Castor fiber.) 

HE beaver in duration of his instinctive type, is 
one of the oldest animals, and seemingly his 
coarse substistence, rugged strength, aquatic 
habits and prolific nature, eminently fitted him 
for just such a career upon this earth. He is 
of notable interest to the human family, and 
besides furnishing us with his pelt and his 
peculiar secretion known as castoreum, we ad- 
mire his constant, energetic and intelligent skill in the pursuit 
of his daily occupation and highly developed architectural ability 
in the construction of his home and the "beaver dam." 

The American and European beaver are closely related, also 
to that found in Asia. In comparing the American with the 
European species, no marked outward differences are discernible. 
Scientists who have devoted much time and energy to this 
subject, after anatomical dissection, state that there are differ- 
ences, that the contrast is principally in the skull and castor 
sacs, and not in the general construction and size of body, head, 
feet and tail. The general belief that these differences, slight a^ 
they are, were due entirely to climatic and geographical con- 
ditions, is apparently punctured by the aforesaid statement of 
the scientists. 

The beaver is a rodent, possesses gregarious, amphibious and 
nocturnal habits, and by nature is a burrowing animal. Appended 
is summary given by Mr. Morgan in his "American Beaver," of 
three beavers captured in 1866, during the months of February, 
March and April, near Lake Superior. 

Male 

Weight .32 lbs. 

Length from tip of nose to end of tail. . . .42.25 

Length of scaly portion of tail 9.75 

Circumference of head before ears 14. 

" behind ears i4-50 

" behind shoulders 20. 

■' middle of abdomen 26.50 

" before hips 25. 

" root of scaly tail . 7. 

middle of scaly tail 8.50 

The principal food of this animal is the bark of deciduous 
trees, also the wood itself; at times consumes coarse grass, pond 



Female 


Female 


29^ lbs. 


36 lbs. 


42.25 


42. 


10. 


10.50 


13. 




15-50 


14-25 


19. 


21.50 


24. 


27.25 


22.50 


24.50 


6. 


8. 


875 


10.50 




Mounted. Owned 
by Andersch Bros. 



THE BEAVEB 



Full-grown. Feb. 
or Early March 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 127 

lillies, etc. The male attains a greater size than the female, and 
to determine the sex of the beaver from the outward appearance 
is difficult, as they are monotrematous and there is nothing from 
their outward appearance to indicate the difference in sex. It 
will be observed from the above table tnat the average weight of 
the beaver is from thirty to forty pounds, the length of the body 
from thirty-two to thirty-eight inches, and the tail, which has 
a scaly appearance, from nine to eleven inches long. Much 
larger specimens have been received from the western states, also 
parts of Canada, and one male beaver in particular coming from 
Montana weighed fifty-eight pounds and the measurement of 
the body was proportionately larger. 

The four incisors are extremely long, and are conspicuously 
used by the animal in severing roots, when burrowing below the 
earth, also in cutting trees, as will be observed by the illustration 
of Beaver Cuttings in connection with this article. The eyes 
are very small, and their small ears adhere closely to the body 
and are almost indiscernible. His sense of hearing and smell is 
acute, while that of sight is of short range. The animal does 
not rely much upon his sight unless the objects are at close 
range. 

The body bears close resemblance to that of the muskrat, 
only on a larger scale. It is thick and clumsy, gradually en- 
larging from the head, and is largest around center of abdomen, 
from which point the body gradually tapers in both directions, 
probably more forward, and the rear is somewhat abruptly 
rounded off at the root of the tail. The fore feet are rather 
slender with toes that are well separated and flexible, and in 
appearance resemble hands. The claws or nails in the front feet 
are sharp, strong, compressed and channelled beneath. The 
middle toe is longest, and those on each side a little shorter. 
The under and inner ones are the shortest. The hind feet bear 
close resemblance to those of the goose, being webbed beyond 
the roots of the nails and have hard calloused soles, which are 
especially adapted for the required aquatic habits and give the 
animal excellent propelling power. While swimming the fore 
feet are closely pressed back against the abdomen and are ol 
no use in its swimming operation. These feet or hands are 
capable of very considerable rotary movements and are made of 
especial use by the animal in holding sticks, limbs and trees, 
and in and with them, carries stones, mud, sod, etc., from one 
place to another, but in this operation the mouth is of great 
necessary assistance. 

The most noteworthy part of the beaver is the tail, though 
of no commercial value. The tail, spade or trowel, is of oval 



128 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 

shape, flattened on upper and lower sides, and is from nine to 
eleven inches long and attains a width of five to six inches at 
its greatest breadth. It leaves the body in a cylindrical form, 
perhaps one and one-half inches in diameter, although immedi- 
ately upon its descent becomes flattened. The tip or extreme 
end is of a semi-circular shape and the entire edges are hard 
permitting the animal to use this member rather roughly without 
endangering the inner or flesh part. The entire tail is covered 
with a sort of six-cornered scale, intermingled with a slight 
hairy growth. These scales, which are such in appearance only, 
cover the entire surface both above and below, and are arranged 
in respect to length in the so-called quincunx form, diminishing 
in size towards the end. Their numbers are nineteen to twenty 
and twenty to twenty-one on the under surface, of the extreme 
wider portion. The skin of this member is tough, and upon 
being tanned one finds that these scaly substances are nothing 
more than longitudinal divisions, merely dips or depressions, 
and not scales, as that term is understood, having in mind the 
scales of a fish. The tail is of no great value to the animal out 
of water, but while swimming acts as a rudder or propeller and 
tends to direct the movements of the body and assist the animal 
while diving, or to elevate or depress the head while swimming. 
It is also used to give signals of alarm to its mate, and the 
violence of the blow in the water is shown by the spray that 
is thrown up two or three feet. 

The nose is small and within it there is a skin having a gate- 
like appearance which prevents the beaver from inhaling or 
partaking water. The pelage of the beaver resembles that of 
the muskrat in color, but the fur fibers are much finer, denser, 
wavy, longer and of greater strength. The outer, or guard hairs 
are coarse and their length predominates one-half to three- 
quarters of an inch above the fur fibers. The former, instead 
of beautifying the fur pelt as they do on the otter, mink, fox 
and even the muskrat, tends to decrease and diminish their value 
and appearance; therefore the tanner or dresser removes these 
hairs by a process called plucking, which leaves a fairly light 
brown or dark surface resembling somewhat the color of the 
otter. The contrast in the color of its outward fur during the 
winter months is discernable between animals inhabiting the va- 
rious sections. Those in the southwestern states along the 
Rocky mountains, Colorado and Wyoming are of a reddish cast, 
especially is this color prominent about the legs and belly portion. 
The color of the fur of animals inhabiting Montana, western" 
Dakota and parts of Idaho, is pale. This pale, or silvery color 
prevails not only on the under guard hairs, but also on the fur 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Ouide. ' 129 

fibers. The further north one goes the darker is the fur of the 
beaver. Have seen skins from the northern part of Canada 
that are as dark as the darkest of otters. In texture the fur of 
the dark beaver is finer but not quite so dense, as in the case of 
animals inhabiting Montana. 

Formerly the beaver was found in most of the states and 
territories, but of late years he has become so scarce, notwith- 
standing the rigid laws, that it is safe to say that only a question 
of a few years remain until the animal will be totally extinct 
in this country. His home is naturally in the forests, about lakes 
or streams and his habit of making dams and retaining the 
supply of water is elsewhere explained. 

Brehm relates that beaver cultivation was already in progress 
as early as 1773, and that the animal's life is prolonged to the 
remarkable limit of fifty years. There are numerous beaver 
farms in this country but the cultivation and increase is slow and 
tiresome. If the place is suitable the business is a profitable one. 
Habits During the fall, winter and spring months the beaver 
can be found about the rivers, also lakes, especially 
at or near some inlet or outlet. During the month of September 
the beaver, like the bees during the gathering season, are busy- 
bodies. A popular saying, "work like a beaver," is only too 
true of this animal, for in the making of their homes, laying in 
roots, herbs, bark and wood, also in the building and repairing 
of dams he is kept busy almost the entire time and up until the 
approach of severe winter. The huts, or beaver houses, as 
commonly known, are dome-shaped, being made out of sticks, 
brushes or weeds, and cemented together with mud, dirt, slime 
and other similar materials. Their houses are similarly con- 
structed and in appearance resemble the home of the muskrat, 
although much larger, and sometimes the dome or upper part 
protrudes out of the water three to four feet. The houses 
are usually roomy, and of sufficient size to hold anywhere from 
four to sixteen animals. Some trappers, also naturalists, claim 
as many as thirty beavers occupy one house, but the author 
believes that this is exaggerated or was caused by unusual 
conditions, and that at the present time seldom more than eight 
to twelve inhabitants are found to occupy one of these huts dur- 
ing the daytime. The entrance to these homes is on the bottom 
and always below the water level. Some years the home is 
built in deeper water than in other years, and trappers believe 
that such location has more or less to do in the forecasting of 
the coming summer, as to whether the season will be a dry or 
a wet one. This may be superstition, but the probable forecast 
seems true. Some beavers (bank beavers) neglect to build 



130 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



houses, but make their homes by digging holes into the banks 
of rivers or lakes. Such entrances are always below the level of 
the water. 

The building of beaver dams is not only remarkable, but the 
construction and manipulation is such that human hands with 
like material could scarcely improve. These dams are usually 
built where insufficient water prevails and are of apparent neces- 
sity to the welfare of the beaver. The increased and steady 
supply of water that these dams afford, gives to them the re- 
quired playground, protection against the severeness of winter 




Beaver Cuttings 

and protects their food supply ; also materially assists them in 
their occupation. That this species requires a reasonable depth 
and area of water, is well known, and seemingly will not do well 
in localities where the water is shallow. Shallow water retards 
the animal in the swimming, and diving habit ; also offers 
obstacles to their method of carrying logs, branches, roots, etc., 
either for the construction of their home, repairing of dams or 
for their food supply. Besides this the forethought that shallow 
water may freeze to the ground, in which case the animal would 
be caug^ht and unable to escape. The dams naturally stretch 



Andersch Bros.' Hunte rs and Trappers Guide. 131 

from one side of the river to another, and are often one hundred 
to two hundred yards in length, being from two to twelve feet 
high, four to six feet thick on the bottom, and ranging to a width 
of two to three feet on top. The latter is leveled off very nicely 
causing an even overflow. The length, thickness, height and man- 
ner of construction depends upon natural conditions, as some 
dams are only five yards long and should the water flow slowly, 
are only two feet thick at the bottom and about six inches on top. 
Some dams are built straight across, others have a convex curve 
leading up stream. The latter is usually constructed where the 
current is swift. Other dams, besides crossing the stream, are 
contmued on land and constructed in a semi-circular shape, and 
the end reaches the river on a higher elevation ; the result is 
the formation of a bay and the backing of water, and as one 
travels through the country he will often notice alluvial mead- 
ows caused by these dams. At times the beaver will cut down 
one or more trees in such a manner that the trunk will fall 
directly in the place where the dam is desired, and this trunk 
forms the nucleus in the buikling operation. 

Often numerous dams are to be found in one vicinity. This 
is due to one or the' other sex of the offspring bringing his or 
her mate to its former home, where a new dam either below or 
above the original one is built. When the young attain an age 
of three years they depart f.-om their parents and after they 
have mated build a dam for themselves and their expected family. 
Trappers and naturalists state that in this operation the parents 
are of great assistance to their youthful and probably inex- 
perienced offspring. This again is denied by careful observers. 
The dams are constructed out of short logs, brush, stones, grass, 
dirt, etc. Entire trees eight to twelve inches in diameter are 
rapidly felled, the beaver cutting same down with his teeth, 
generally in such manner that the tree will fall towards the river. 
After a tree is felled, it is cut into small pieces from four to 
six feet long, the length depending somewhat upon the thick- 
ness and weight of the piece and the purpose for which it isi 
intended ; these are conveyed to the river, eich animal taking 
its own burden. Some will take logs, others brushes, sticks, 
weeds, stones, dirt, etc., while some are kept busy by inter- 
mingling, binding afid fastening the materials together. The 
female is the most active builder and is usually consigned to 
the job of constructing, while the males will bring the material 
to the desired location. 

Although not exclusively nocturnal in his habits, the beaver 
performs the principal part of his work at night. That he is 
of shy and timid disposition cannot be denied, and if disturbed 



Castoreum and Generative Organs of Male and Female Beavers 




1 Castor Sacks or Bark Stones 

2 Oil Sacks or Oil Stones 

3 Cloacal Cavity (Open) 



3 
FEMALE 



^iu 




"iiiliiiinrlnini 


^^^' 


riM 


'iMSfekiiiii 




pp^ 


f 


T^ 


2 


^ 




■*— ~«i 


a^^^ 


i 


1^- 






i 



4 Vaginal Tube 

5 End of Rectum 

6 Bladder 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide, 133 

will soon decamp from his location. He is socially inclined and 
this disposition is manifested in their strongly developed pro- 
pensities to dwell and live in the family relation. This is also 
corroborated by the numerous inhabitants of a given locality, and 
the many assistants in the building of their lodges, burrows 
and dams; also in the providing of their winter supply of 
food. o -. -ro .'-,{ 

The breeding or mating season begins as early as March 
in the southern states and as late as May in the extreme 
northern climates. The female brings forth from two to five 
young during the month of May, June and as late as the fore 
part of July in the extreme northern climates. A beaver family 
consists of a male and female, and their offspring of the first 
and second years. The mother will nourish the young for a 
few weeks, after which time the latter take to bark. The animal 
is full-grown in about three years, and their life in the wild 
state is prolonged from ten to twenty years. 

The experience of a trapper as related by Mr. Morgan per- 
taining to the peculiar cry of the young beaver, which resembles 
that of a child of a few days old, is repeated: He was going 
to his traps when he heard a cry which he was sure was that 
of a child; and fearing the presence of an Indian camp, he 
crept in cautiously through the cotton-wood to the bank of 
the stream, where he discovered two young beavers upon a 
low bank of earth near the water, crying for their mother, 
whom he afterwards found in one of his traps. Mr. Mor- 
gan's own experience is as follows : "On one occasion I was 
similarly deceived in an Indian lodge at the mouth of the 
Yellowstone River, where a young beaver was lapping milk 
from a saucer while an Indian baby was pulling its fur. It 
was not until after several repetitions that I noticed that it 
was the cry of the beaver instead of the child." 

That the beaver, after they attain a mature age are sensitive, 
in that respect resembling the human family, is expressed by 
many trappers and believed by them as well as the Indians. 
Should the father or mother die, or be captured, the grief of the 
remaining one at times is so great that he or she will refuse 
to pair, and begins a solitary life which is continued until 
death. The animal migrates from place to place, especially 
when one district becomes too thickly settled ; at other times his 
migration is forced upon him by the country becoming pop- 
ulated, •: " ' / -'-rOr| 

The animal can swim under water a distance not exceed- 
ing one-fourth of a mile when its supply of air becomes ex- 
hausted. There is quite a difference in the opinion of trappers 



Andersch ISros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 1^5 

as to the durability and length of time the animal can remain 
below water without a supply of fresh air. Observation would 
indicate .that two to three minutes is the average time. An 
incident is recited where a trapper held a captured beaver below 
the water for ten minutes, feeling assured in that time the 
animal's life would be extinguished, but such was not the case. 

One should observe and study the accompanying illustrations 
of this article, especially the ones pertaining to the beaver cut- 
tings and the location of the castorium and oil bags, probably 
better known as bark and oil stones. 

The value of the pelt differs, depending upon the locality, 
size of the skin, time of year, and upon the demand and fashion. 
Tables containing prices for a period of years will be noted 
elsewhere. The castor bags, when properly dried, bring $6.00 
to $9.50 per pound. The contents are used for medicinal as 
well as perfume purposes, and are bought by the fur dealer, 
who in turn disposes of same to the manufacturer. The pelt, 
after it is tanned and plucked, is used for ladies as well as for 
gentlemen's wearing apparel. Its high cost prevents its common 
use, also tends to bring forth low priced imitations, such as 
nutra, raccoon and at times coneys. The latter are shorn and 
blended so as to resemble the beaver. The small pieces or 
offals of beaver trimmings are disposed of to hat manufacturers. 

THE OTTER. 

(Gcr. Land or Fisch Otter, Lat. Lutra canadensis.) 

HE land otter on this continent like all fur bearing 
animals that are indiscriminately distributed 
amongst the states and territories, also Canada, 
as is the otter, cannot but show a marked contrast 
in the size of the animal and color of its furred 
pelt. Naturalists claim as many as twenty dif- 
ferent species, but all resemble each other very 
closely. On this continent we have only one species, but the fur 
trade sub-divides the otter into three geographical types — the 
northern otter, the southern otter and the Pacific coast otter. 
The former is found in the northern parts of the United States, 
in Canada and Alaska. The southern otter, as the name im- 
plies, inhabits the southern states, particularly Florida, Georgia, 
Alabama and the Carolinas, and portions of Texas. The Pacific 
coast otter is found along the Pacific coast from Mexico extend- 
ing along California, Oregon and sometimes those captured along 




136 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

the coast of British Columbia are classed and marketed as Pacific 
coast otters. The Alaska otter differs somewhat from the other 
species, but those inhabiting the numerous islands, resenible the 
Pacific coast otter very much, while those of the inland are classed 
as northern otters. 

The otter is generally distributed over North America ap- 
parently nowhere in great abundance, but years ago was ab- 
solutely wanting in few, if any, localities adapted to its habits. 
Due to the high price of the skin the otter is zealously hunted 
and has become extinct in many localities. It is safe to say 
that the otter is gradually disappearing, and like the beaver 
will become extinct, notwithstanding the laws that give the ani- 
mal protection. 

The otter is peculiar in its construction, resembling some- 
what the mink and the marten, only in magnified appearance. 
The ears are small, well rounded and almost hidden from view 
by the long and glossy fur. The head is broad and flat on top, 
consequently the ears are wide apart. The nose is stubby, 
rather broad, well rounded and remarkably well developed. The 
small eyes are rather forward, nearer to the muzzle than to 
the ear and deeply set in the skull. The body is plump, thick, 
and long, and during the winter covered with short, dense, silky 
and glossy fur. The undergrowth resembles that of the beaver, 
but is more silky, equally as wavy, and adheres to the skin in 
a more dense form and is perhaps somewhat lighter in color, 
especially on prime skins from the extreme northern regions, 
which in outward appearances are extremely dark, while the 
fur fibres next to the skin are very light, almost of whitish 
color. The guard hairs are rather coarse in sections, glossy, 
varying in color from a brown to an extreme dark or black* 
These coarse hairs are by no means harsh, on the other hand 
are soft, pliable, dense and evenly distributed all over the body. 
There is probably no better wearing fur than the otter, espec- 
ially in its natural state. Only poorly furred skins, or those 
coming from the southern states are plucked. The others are 
left in their natural state as plucking would diminish their beauty 
and value. 

The short fore limb is succeeded by a stout wrist and broad 
flat hand. The fingers are very short and when divaricated, 
their tips describe merely a semi-circle around the center of 
the palm. The toes are almost completely webbed by mem- 
branes reaching well within the center of the palm. The upper 
part of the hand or foot is covered with a hairy or fur forma- 
tion while the lower part of the foot is naked. As above stated 
the feet are stout and short and closely attached to the extreme 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 137 

sides of the body, thus the walking on land is more of a hardship 
than pleasure and its travel awkward, being of waddly appear- 
ance. If in danger the otter is likely to increase his speed of 
locomotion on land to a remarkably rapid gait, and the pursuer 
is obliged to run in order to keep up with him. The claws are 
similar on both hind and fore feet, being short, stout and some- 
what arched. Perhaps those of the fore feet are somewhat 
larger and sharper and more curved than those of the rear feet. 

The tail, which is two to three inches in diameter at the 
root, is quite well rounded, but becomes flattened as it tapers 
gradually to a true point in its descent. It attains a total length 
of fourteen to eighteen inches, depending somewhat upon the 
size of the animal. The member is completely furred with 
fibers resembling those of the body. The fur is very dense and 
diminishes in length as it nears the tip. The upper portion 
possesses a coat of very dense fur and is always two or three 
shades darker than that of the body. 

The body is extremely slender and few animals vary more 
in stature than does the otter. The average size of the northern 
otter is from thirty-four to forty inches from nose to root of 
tail. Much larger specimens are occasionally captured, and one 
in particular that was received from British Columbia measured 
fifty-one inches, its tail nineteen inches, or a total of seventy 
inches. The animal from which this skin came must certainly 
have weighed forty-five pounds or more. The usual weight of 
matured northern otters is from thirty-five to forty pounds; 
that of the southern or middle states, twenty-five to thirty 
pounds. The usual difference in size between the male and fe- 
male exist; the latter is one-fifth to one- fourth smaller. The 
following measurements by Dr. Coues, taken from the govern- 
ment records, is corroborative, especially since his measurements 
are taken from eastern or probably middle state species: 

"Some individuals are, in round terms, twice as large and 
heavy as others apparently equally mature, and, at any rate, cap- 
able of reproduction. An average total length of full-grown 
individuals is four to four and one-half feet; some specimens 
however touching five feet, while others fall short of the first- 
named dimensions. The species appear to grow several years 
after puberty. Nose to root of tail three feet ; tail one and one- 
half feet ; nose to eye, one and three-quarters to two inches ; nose 
to ear three and one-half to four inches; ear less than an inch 
high, and about as broad ; fore foot from wrist three and one- 
half inches ; hind foot four inches ; girth of body about one and 
one-half feet ; stature a foot or less ; weight ordinarily twenty 
to twenty-five pounds. I have recognized no particular sexual 



138 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

differences, though the female may, as usual in this family, 
average smaller than the male." 

Habits ^^ ^^ "°^ often that the hunter or trapper is able 
to observe the otter, consequently his habits are not 
thoroughly known. The Almighty Creator willed it that the 
animal become an excellent swimmer and diver and to confine 
himself largely to the water. The construction of its body, 
limbs, dense fur and long tail, gives the animal the desired 
facilities to remain in the water for a long period. He is known 
to swim miles under water, also to dive in deep or shallow water 
from high distances. His home is in various sized rivers and 
other bodies of fresh water. Its swiftness enables it to catch 
fish with remarkable ease, and at times is known to wantonly 
kill large numbers for the simple pleasure it gives him. Their 
principal food is confined to fish ; if these are unobtainable, the 
otter will devour the flesh of muskrats and other procurable 
meats. Instances are recited where the animal captured wild 
ducks which were taken into his abode and there devoured. 
Audubon relates that he had one or more otters in confinement 
and when no fish could be procured, were fed upon beef which 
they always preferred boiled. "During the last winter we ascer- 
tained that the collection of feathers of a wild duck were taken 
from the banks of a rice field reserve-dam. It was conjectured 
that the duck had either been killed or wounded by the hunter 
and was in this state seized by the otter." 

Their fondness for speckled and brook trout causes them 
to frequent clear water and rapid-flowing streams. The animal is 
also known to travel on land for long distances in search of 
lakes or streams or to habitually migrate from one lake or 
stream to that of another. Quite often in these travels they 
become victims, being killed by hunters, farmers, or are cap- 
tured and devoured by such animal as the wolf. Mr. Richard- 
son, one of the earliest authors, in writing about the Canadian 
otter, states as follows : 

"In the winter season it frequents rapids and falls, to have 
the advantage of open water ; and when its usual haunts are 
frozen over it will travel to a great distance over the snow in 
search of a rapid that has resisted the severity of the weather. 
If seen, and pursued by hunters on these journeys, it will throw 
itself forward on its belly and slide through the snow for sev- 
eral yards, leaving a deep furrow behind it. This movement 
is repeated with so much rapidity that even a swift runner on 
snowshoes has much trouble in overtaking it. It also doubles 
on its track with much cunning and dives under the snow to 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 139 

elude its pursuers. When closely pressed it will turn and defend 
itself with great obstinacy." 

Its numerous slides are seen on banks of rivers, and, in some 
cases, on lakes, and it formerly afforded great pleasure to the 
Indians and the early hunters to watch the otter sliding down 
these embankments, diving and swimming sometimes a short 
distance while at other times a long distance, only to regain the 
shore and the uppermost portion of the slide to repeat the oper- 
ation. 

Some naturalists claim that the breeding season is not speci- 
fic or timely. Others claim positively that the mother brings 
forth her young during the month of April or May. By close 
observation and inquiry it is found that the season varies con- 
siderably, especially in the different climates, but seldom is 
beyond the loth of May and likewise before March 15th. 

THE SEA OTTER. 

(Gcr. Scc-Ottcr, Lat. Enhydris liitris.) 

N all the many years I have devoted to "Fur Bear- 
ing Animals and their Skins," I have not laid eyes 
upon a living sea otter and to speak or write 
from personal observation or experience is denied 
me ; the information following is second-hand, 
excepting that individual skins were viewed, and 
that the contrast between such was observed and noted. 

The sea otLcr is found in northern latitudes along the coist 
of Alaska, the Aleutian Islands, then across to Kamchatka, 
following the coast line of the latter peninsula up to Cape 
Olutorsk, then along the coast to Cape Navaria. In some of 
the above sections they are known under the name of "Kalan." 
The animal's existence was brought to light by Steller in 1751. 
but was known to the natives inhabiting the extreme northern 
shores of the Pacific ocean and its islands, who used the skin 
for wearing apparel, etc., at the time Steller made his observa- 
tions. Probably no skin from any other animal of the entire 
animal kingdom has more merits of true value than that of the 
sea otter. The choicest skins of the black fox may command 
more money at times, but its relative value and merit is sur- 
passed by the skin of the sea otter. In value the seal skin 
is far surpassed by that of the sea otter. 

During the colder part of the year they dwell along the coast, 
and are seen on large barren rocks, evidently preparatory to 




140 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

taking plunges into the deep sea. During the warm season they 
migrate fifty to one hundred miles from the shore and live 
entirely in and on the deep sea. There is a marked difference 
between the sea otter and that of the land otter. The latter 
presents a special modification of the limbs, more particularly 
of the hind limbs, which are developed into flipper-like organs, 
not very dissimilar to those of some seals. 

The body is cylindrical in form, abrupt behind, tapering 
before to a small globose head without noticeable constriction 
of neck. The limbs are short and there is a remarkable dis- 
parity in shape between the fore and hind feet. The tail is 
short, cylindrical, gradually tapering and ending abruptly. In 
no respect does the tail of the sea otter resemble that of the land 
otter. The fore feet are remarkably small and the rear ones are 
notable for their expansion and flattened effective oars. The eyes 
are of moderate size and set rather high up into the skull. 
The ears are situated remarkably low down — far below the 
eyes, and in fact little below the commissure of the mouth. The 
whiskers are short, extremely stout and stiff. In life the skin 
is remarkably loose (rolling) ; the pelt of an individual four feet 
long readily stretches to six feet; and when the animal is lifted 
up by the skin a foot or so of "slack" gathers. 

The pelage is notable for the preponderance of the woolly 
under-fur, the longer, stouter hairs being very scanty. It is of 
the same general character all over the body, but the head, feet 
and tail are covered with a finer fur with little or no admixture 
of bristly hairs. The only naked parts are the muffle and palms. 
The animal attains a size of four to six feet, which includes a tail 
of eight to ten inches in length. The average weight is eighty 
to one hundred and ten pounds. 

J, . . From one of the Government Reports, and as noted 
by Coues, the following is extracted: "The sea otter 
mother sleeps in the water on her back, with her young clasped be- 
tween her fore-paws. The pup cannot live without its mother, 
though frequent attempts have been made by the natives to raise 
them, as they often capture them alive, but, like some other species 
of wild animals, it seems to be so deeply imbued with fear of man 
that it invariably dies from self-imposed starv'^ation. 

"Their food, as might be inferred from the flat molars of 
dentition, is almost entirely composed of clams, mussels, and sea- 
urchins, of which they are very fond, and which they break by 
striking the shells together, held in each fore-paw, sucking out 
the contents as they are fractured by these efforts ; they also 
undoubtedly eat crabs, and the juicy, tender fronds of kelp or 
seaweed, and fish. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunter s and Trappers Guide. 141 

"They are not polygamous, and more than an individual 
is seldom seen at a time when out at sea. The flesh is very 
unpalatable, highly charged with a rank smell and flavor. 

"They are playful, it would seem, for I am assured by sev- 
eral old hunters that they have watched the sea otter for half an 
hour as it lay upon its back in the water and tossed a piece of 
seaweed up in the air from paw to paw, apparently taking great 
delight in catching it before it could fall into the water. It 
will also play with its young for hours. 

"The quick hearing and acute smell possessed by the sea 
otter are not equalled by any other creatures in the territory. 
They will take alarm and leave from the effects of a small fire 
four or five miles to the windward of them ; and the footstep 
of man must be washed by many tides before its trace ceases to 
alarm the animal and drive it from landing there should it 
approach for that purpose." 

It is positively related that unlike other animals, the young, 
when born, possess excellent sight and sharp teeth. The mother 
soon takes them to sea, holding them in her mouth while she 
swims on her back. The usual position of the young is for them 
to lie on her breast between the fore-legs, she protecting one or 
both of them in this manner. Like the mother of the human 
family she kisses her young over and over again and readily risks 
her life to save the young from harm. 

Steller relates that the sea otter can be tamed and be placed 
in lakes or rivers similar to seals, although the roomy salt water 
is very dear to them. 

The number of sea otters is rapidly diminishing, while certain 
vessels containing hunters and explorers as early as 1794 cap- 
tured, in a season, two to five thousand otters, and later, in 1800, 
a few American and English vessels came into Sitka Sound, 
anchoring off the small Russian settlement there and traded with 
the natives for thousands of skins, giving in exchange firearms, 
powder and balls, etc. With the use of these arms the natives 
soon opened a systematic warfare leading towards extermination. 
In the year 1804 a Russian and American company marketed 
fifteen thousand sea otter skins and realized over one million 
dollars therefor. For mode of capturing, which is very inter- 
esting, see article under "Trapping." The value of the skins 
varies considerably and is generally between $200 to $500 each. 





Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Tr appers Guide. 143 

THE SEAL. 

(Gcr. Robhen oder Flosscnfnser, Lat. Pinnepedia.) 

HE seals, sea lions, harp seals, hooded seals, sea 
bears, saddleback seals, and other species, as well 
as the various kinds of walruses belong to the fin 
footed variety and are distinguished from other 
mammalia by the peculiar construction of their 
body, habits, actions, etc. 
They are able to swim and dive with the great- 
est ease, often remaining ten to twenty minutes below the sur- 
face of the water, and, Cuvier says, as long as one hour. Their 
arteries are filled with warm blood, and the animal possesses 
nocturnal and gregarious habits, with a highly-developed sense 
of sight, hearing, smell, and inhabits all oceans of the world. 

All species of the seal family frequent resorts of sandy 
beaches, rocks and floes, for the purpose of sleeping or basking 
in the sun, and for breeding. The body is adapted for continued 
water residence, being cylindrical and tapering gradually from 
centre backwards toward tail and tapering frontwards, terminat- 
ing in an otter-like head, the latter being small and well rounded. 
The ears on certain species are well developed, while those of the 
Alaska fur seal are sparingly distinguished and exceedingly 
small, and when the animal is in the water, same are closed by 
a valve, which terminates the inward flow of water, but does 
not retard the animal's sense of hearing. It is remarkable that 
the seal is able to detect slight surface noises while at a depth 
of ten to twenty feet below the water level. Their nostrils are 
completely closed when under water, and the eyes are large, and 
pleasiVigly set off the animal, as well as their intelligent nature. 
The mammae (teats) are on the lower rear portion of the belly, 
and their feet are as indicated on the illustration. 

From a commercial standpoint seals are divided into two 
groups — hair seals and fur seals. The latter produces a skin 
that is worn by thousands of ladies in this country and Europe, 
also a quantity of oil. The hair seal is caught for the value of 
the oil and skin — the latter is largely converted into leather. 
The latter species of seal inhabits Newfoundland, Labrador, Gulf 
of St. Lawrence, and portions of the White Sea, Arctic, Caspian 
and North and South Pacific oceans. 

The Alaska fur seal inhabits the ocean along the coast of 

Alaska, and the rookeries which they frequent are situated on the 

islands of St. Paul and St. George, known as the Pribilof islands. 

The body of the Alaska fur seal is covered with a layer of 



144 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 

coarse outer hair, while the inner coat consists of dense, soft, 
silky fur fibres. The roots of the outside guard hairs penetrate 
deep into the skin, while the fur fibres are imbedded and ter- 
minate immediately beneath the grain formation of the skin* In 
the process of tanning, the coarse hairs are easily loosened in 
the operation of "fleshing," without disturbing the adherence of 
tne tur fibres. 

A full-grown Alaska bull seal measures about seven feet, and 
is about equal that number of feet in circumference, and will 
weigh about five hundred to six hundred pounds. He attains 
his maturity at the age of about six years. The females attain 
their maturity at the age of about four years, and are about two- 
thirds the size of the male, but in weight they rarely exceed one 
hundred fifty pounds, usually about one hundred pounds. Their 
longevity varies considerably usually from sixteen to twenty 
years for a bull and ten to twelve years for a female. The 
mother brings forth a pup usually at the age of four years, and 
in rare cases at the age of three years. 

The Alaska seal, as aforesaid, is largely captured on the 
Pribilof islands, the bull seals arriving from a southward direc- 
tion on the rookeries as early as May and by the first of June 
hundreds and thousands locate themselves in advantageous po- 
sition, awaiting the reception of the females, which usually come 
two to three weeks later. 

It is extremely hazardous and requires an unusual amount 
of grit for the individual bull seal to maintain and defend his 
position. Hundreds are annually killed in combat, especially 
those on the water line. The ifighting is done entirely with 
the mouth, one seizing the other by the teeth, inflicting deep 
wounds, their sharp incisors tearing deep gutters in the skin and 
at various times shredding the flippers into ribbon strips. 

The skins taken from the Pribilof islands principally con- 
stitute the Alaska seal skins though numerous animals are cap- 
tured along the coast of Alaska, British Columbia, along the 
Aleutian islands, and others when the animals return from 
the Pribilof islands by the pelagic sealers. 

The seals are remarkably tenacious of life, but are easily 
killed by a bullet piercing the brain, or by a sharp rap over the 
head. 

The seal has other enemies besides man. The monster killer 
whale, the polar bear, and also certain species of large fishes, 
which usually overtake the young, but seldom attack the full- 
grown seal. 

The killing of seals is carefully regulated by law on the 
Pribilof islands and within a radius of sixty miles thereof. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 145 

The Commercial Company, which has the contract from this 
government, is only permitted to kill a certain number of young 
bachelor seals. The killing of females is entirely prohibited. 
The female brings forth one pup, in rare cases two pups, which 
are born three to six days after reaching the rookeries. Strange as 
it may seem, the new companion of the mother takes kindly to 
the pup. The bull seal usually gathers about him a number of 
females, sometimes as high as eight, but usually two to five. 
These, with the offspring of the female and her previous com- 
panion are protected by him, the father of her next- pup, which 
is born in about a year. 

The skins taken from seals inhabiting the oceans about the 
Shetland islands are superior in fur qualities to that of the 
Alaska seal, while the latter is superior to others, especially those 
coming from the Copper islands, Japanese, Lobos, Cape of Good 
Hope and other sections. 

The elephant seal that is found at various portions of the 
globe, and formerly along the coast of California are monsters, 
and historians state that the elephant seal is the largest species 
of the seal family, single bull seals of the above species weighing 
between two thousand and two thousand five hundred pounds. 

Many believe that the sea lions inhabiting the rocks just 
off the Cliff House in San Francisco are animals that produce 
the fur seal skins. Such is not the case. 




l46 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



ALASKA FUR SEALS. 




,0*»P 



HE islands of St. Paul and St. George, forming 
the Pribilof islands, which are the chief seal 
hunting grounds, are inhabited principally by 
natives. Upon the former there are one 
hundred and sixty-eight inhabitants, nine of 
them being white people from this country, 
who are employed by the government. Upon 
the island of St. George there are eighty-eight 
native persons, representing twenty-two 
families. 
, According to contract, the North American 

Commercial Company gives employment to 
natives on both of these islands, attends to 
their personal wants, such as clothing, food, 
fuel, education, etc. The following are extracts from the govern- 
or's report to the Secretary of the Interior in 1902 : 

"Nineteen thousand animals (seals) were killed upon St. Paul 
and 3,304 upon St. George, making a total of 23,304. This 
number, at the contract price of $9.62!/^ per skin, together with 
the annual rental of $60,000.00, amounts to $274,676.05. The 
expense is the fuel account of one revenue cutter, the Manning, 
and the salaries and expense accounts of the treasury agents. 
Any person who visits the islands and studies these animals upon 
the rookeries can hardly bring himself to advocate their whole- 
sile destruction. We undoubtedly have a property interest in 
them, and should stoutly maintain our right by straightforward 
diplomacy. By what little branding that has been done we have 
proved that these animals migrate along the coast in the winter 
and early spring. Have we a right to protect them from the 
'pelagic hunter? What is known as the sixty-mile limit, which 
was imposed by the court of arbitration, gives some protection, 
but not enough. The nursing females are killed more than two 
hundred miles from their rookeries. The English and Americans 
who were parties to the arbitration are restricted to the sixty- 
mile limit and hunt with spears only. We refuse to clear our 
own vessels for hunting seals. Eighteen vessels are said to have 
cleared from Japanese ports this season to engage in pelagic 
sealing. These are armed with guns. Some of the crews of these 
vessels are mixed — made up of Japs, Canadians and others. 
These people will assert that they are not restrained 
by the rules of any court of arbitration in which they 
were not represented. It would be to the interest of the United 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 147 

States to have the whole seaHng question opened up anew and 
to have Russia, Japan, England and the United States agree 
upon a plan for giving these animals adequate protection. 

"They have an enemy in the thrasher or whale killer. These 
animals are the dread of the whole seal family. When the se^ 
lion or hair seal scents them he knows that their only safety is 
to make for land ; but the fur seal is not so wise. If he doVlges 
at the first onset he becomes curious to learn what is going on 
instead of trying to escape. The thrasher knows these habits to 
his advantage. He is armed with rows of teeth that come to- 
gether with tremendous energy. These animals in great num- 
bers guard the passage well and no doubt consume great num- 
bers of young seals. The agents upon the islands report that 
they frequently chase the seals at the rookeries, but when they 
discharge a rifle at them they put to sea at once. It would be 
well for Congress to authorize the Secretary of the Treasury to 
ofier an ample bounty for the heads of these sea beasts of prey. 
It should be sufficient to induce hunters to outfit vessels for 
capturing them." 

According to the contract between the United States and the 
North American Commercial Company, entered upon and be- 
tween these parties on the 12th day of March, 1890, said company 
has the sole monopoly of the seal industry on these islands, (St. 
George and St. Paul), and must exercise its power under rules 
and regulations of the Interior Department. They are restricted 
to capture a certiin number of seals a year and are obliged to pay 
an annual rental of $60,000.00. In addition thereto a revenue 
tax of $2.00 is laid upon each fur seal skin taken and shipped by 
said companv from the islands of St. Paul and St. George, and 
are also obliged to pay the United States an additional $7.62 14 
per skin and 50 cents per gallon of oil shipped from said islands. 

They are obliged to furnish the natives with sufficient and 
proper food, fuel, comfortable dwellings, schoolhouses, compe- 
tent teachers, places of worship, care for the aged and infirm, 
and give the inhabitants sufficient and proper employment, medi- 
cal attendance, etc. 

The above contract is for twenty years and subject to nulli- 
fication upon evidence of violation or at the pleasure of the Gov- 
ernment, f.nd the company is subject to all present and future 
laws pend'ng the seal fisheries. 



o-y^g^BF*V' 







Upper, Fur Seal Skin 
Lower, Marbled Seal Skin 



Upper, Sea Otter Skin 
Lower, Cleaning Drums 



Andersch Bros.' Hun ters and Trappers Guide. 149 

ALASKA FUR BEARING ANIMALS. 

(Extracts from Government Reports of Seal and Salmon Fish- 
eries and General Resources of Alaska, i8p8.) 

The Fur Seal (Callorhimis iirsinus). Tlie only hauling' or 
breeding grounds of the fur seal known in Alaska are on the 
Islands of St. Paul and St. George, with the addition perhaps of 
the adjoining Otter Island, where these animals occasionally haul 
up but do not breed. From early spring until late in the autumn 
fur seals are met with in all portions of the North Pacific in- 
closed by the Alaska coast, from latitude 54° 40' to Mount St. 
Elias, and thence westward along Prince William Sound, the 
east side of Kenai Peninsula, and along the Aliaska Peninsula 
and its continuation, the Aleutian chain of islands. In Behring 
sea the animal has not been observed to the northward of lati- 
tude 58°. In the spring of the year only fur seals are found in 
large numbers in the vicinity of the Strait of Fuca and along the 
coast of Vancouver and Queen Charlotte Islands. During the 
time of the general migration to and from the breeding grounds 
several of the passes through the Aleutian chain are crowded 
with adults in the spring and with young seals and yearlings in 
the late summer and autumn. The presence of large numbers of 
these animals in these secluded waters and those of Prince 
William Sound late in the season (in June and July) has often 
given rise to the supposition that some breeding grounds must 
exist in those localities, but the most minute and persistent search 
has failed to sustain the supposition. 

About fifty miles south of the Aleutian chain large numbers of 
seals are frequently seen during the summer, and for half a cen- 
tury rumors of the existence of breeding grounds in that neighbor- 
hood were launched from time to time. 

The Russian-American company fitted out numerous explor- 
ing expeditions, but these were always-unsuccessful. The last en- 
terprise of the kind was undertaken by a former employe of the 
Russian company, under the auspices of the present lessees of the 
seal islands, on the schooner "John Bright," in 1873. being the 
third expedition of the kind fitted out by the Alaska Commercial 
Company in two years. On this occasion indications of land, 
such as are accepted by all navigators, were not wanting in the 
waters included in the search. After a season of fruitless search 
the captain finally abandoned his undertaking, coming to the 
conclusion, however, that within a short distance southward from 
the Aleutian Islands there existed banks sufficiently shallow to 
serve as feeding grounds for the seals, which possibly visit them 



150 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

for that purpose even during the breeding season, as a journey 
of 300 miles is but a brief excursion for these rapid swimmers 
in search of food. 

All other expeditions in search of the supposed "winter 
home" of these seals have met with the same lack of success. The 
Pacific ocean and the Antarctic have been scoured by the sealers 
and by emissaries of trading firms, but at the present day the 
fact seems to be established that the fur seals, after leaving their 
confined breeding places, scatter over the broad Pacific to locali- 
ties where extensive elevations of the bottom of the sea enable 
them to subsist upon fish until the instinct of reproduction calls 
them again from all directions to one common goal. 

The Sea Otter (Enhydra marina). The sea otter seems to 
exist, chiefly on a line parallel with the Japanese current, from 
the coast of Japan along the Kurile islands to the coast of Kam- 
chatka, and thence westward along the Aleutian chain, the south- 
ern side of the Aliaska Peninsula, the estuaries of Cook Inlet 
and Prince William sound, and thence eastward and southward 
along the Alaskan coast, the Alexander archipelago, British Co- 
lumbia, Washington Territory and Oregon. 

At the beginning of the present century large numbers of 
these animals were also found on the coast of California, from 
which they have now disappeared altogether ; and on the coast 
of Oregon, Washington Territory, and British Columbia they 
have decreased to such a degree that only at long intervals is the 
patient hunter rewarded with the prize of one of these valuable 
skins. On the west coast of Vancouver island, in the vicinity of 
Nootka Sound, where Meares, Portlock, Dixon, and others of 
the earliest English northwest traders found thousands of sea- 
otter skins in the possession of chiefs, the animal has been almost 
exterminated, and there can be no doubt that, had it not been for 
the protection afforded under the Russian monopoly for nearly 
three-fourths of a century, this animal would be extinct today in 
Alaskan waters. The Innuit tribes alone entered understandingly 
into the measures of protection introduced by Russians. 
The Thlinket. on the other hand, a fierce and savage people, op- 
posed to system and order or control of any kind, were the most 
active agents in the extermination of the animal. From the 
time they began to understand the value of sea-otter skins from 
the eagerness with which the early English visitors purchased all 
they had, even mere scraps and rags, the Thlinket all along the 
coast, from the mouth of Copper River southward, hunted and 
slaughtered the sea-otter indiscriminately and in the most clumsy 
manner, frightened away as many as they killed. Had these 
tribes joined to their recklessness the same skill and patient per- 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 151 

sistence observed among the Eskimo and Aleut, there would be 
no sea-otters on that coast today ; but in their wooden canoes they 
can only hunt in fine weather, and at such times the sea-otter re- 
tires from the coast to a distance to which no Thlinket would 
venture. 

In the Russian possession about the Kurile Islands and the 
coast of Kamchatka but a few hundred sea-otters are now killed 
annually. At three different times during the existence of the 
Russian-American Company their agents on the Kurile islands 
and Kamchatka reported the sea-otter as extinct, and each time 
the animals appeared again after they had not been hunted for 
a few years. Along the Aleutian chain the sea-otters frequently 
change from one feeding ground to another ; for instance, for 
a long series of years the island of Attoo and several smaller 
surrounding islands furnished many hundreds of sea-otter skins 
every year, but for some unexplained reason a migration east- 
ward took place, and at the present time from fourteen to twenty 
skins are all that the poverty-stricken inhabitants sell to the 
traders. The numerous islands between Attoo and Atkha are 
each visited in turn by the hunters about once in three years, and 
under such management the numbers of the animals appear to 
remain the same. The outlying reefs of Atkha, which once fur- 
nished the most abundant supply of these valuable skins, are now 
entirely deserted, and the inhabitants undertake long hunting 
voyages to the westward under convoy of schooners belonging to 
the trading firms. 

From the island of Oumnak eastward the sea-otter becomes 
more frequent, until we find it in its greatest abundance in the 
district of Sannakh and Belkovsky. Here, within a radius of 
not more than fifty miles,, over 2,000 sea-otters are secured every 
year by the fortunate hunters without any apparent decline in 
numbers. From this point in a northeasterly direction the coast 
of the Aliaska Peninsula is lined with hundreds of islands and 
reefs, affording ample facilities for shelter and refuge to the 
persecuted animal, and though it is hunted here recklessly by 
white and native hunters, alike, using firearms in violation of 
existing regulations, no alarming decrease can be ascertained 
from statistics at hand. Still further northward, in the waters of 
the Kadiak archipelago and the southern half of Cook Inlet, 
and thence eastward to Prince William sound, sea-otters are 
found in less number than in the district described above, but still 
in comparative abundance, the annual yield being between 1,000 
and 1,500 skins. 

As far as it is possible for us to know, the only enemv of the 
sea-otter is man, with the exception perhaps of the so-called "kil- 



152 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

ler-whale." We have reports of natives only in support of the 
last statement, but as this whale is known to make sad havoc 
among fur seals there is no reason to doubt that they occasionally 
attack the somewhat larger sea-otter. Skins have come under my 
observation marked with scars produced evidently by the teeth of 
some large marine mammal. 

The distribution of the sea-otter along the coast of Alaska, as 
indicated in the accompanying map, has not essentially changed 
within historic times. Certain localities have been abandoned by 
the animal altogether, other temporarily ; but where Behring, 
Chirikof, and Steller and subsequently the Russian promyshleniks 
found the sea-otter more than a century ago, we find it now, and 
the supply of such skins in the fur market of the world is certainly 
as great now as at any time since the first indiscriminate slaugh- 
ter prior to the establishment of the Russian monopoly : in fact it 
is apparently much greater. 

The Land Otter (Liitra canadensis). The land otter is one 
of the most widely distributed fur-bearing animals in Alaska, 
ranking in this respect next to the common cross fox. The skin, 
however, is much more valuable, since of late it has been utilized 
for the manufacture of an imitation of seal skin. The skin has al- 
ways met with ready sale in Russia, where it is used extensively 
for collars and cuffs of the uniforms of army officers of the line, 
who cannot afford the more expensive sea-otter trimmings. The 
demand for it in former times was so great that the Russian-Am- 
erican Company in leasing a strip of land to the Hudson Bay 
Company was not only willing, but anxious to accept payment in 
land-otter skins. The Chinese also have a liking for this fur. 

The land otter is found on the whole coast of Alaska, from 
the southern boundary to the northern shore of Norton Sound. 
It also occurs on all the islands inside of these limits as far as 
Unimak in the west and Nunivak in the north. Within the Arc- 
tic Circle the land otter is confined to the upper courses of rivers 
emptying into Kotzebue Sound and the Arctic Ocean, such as 
the Colville, the Kok, the Inland, and Selawik. It is found also 
along the whole course of the Yukon as far as known, along the 
Kuskokvim, and all over the delta lying between the mouths of 
these rivers, in the valleys of the Togiak and the Nushegak, and 
in nearly all parts of the Aliaska peninsula and Unimak islands, 
as well as on the Kadiak archipelago, the shores of Cook Inlet, 
on the Kinik and Sushetno rivers emptying into the same, on 
Prince William Sound, and on the Copper River. The traders 
report the land otter also along the whole coast from Mount St. 
Elias to the southern boundary, with the exception of the smaller 
islands. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 153 

The Beaver (Castor fiber). The beaver was once one of the 
most important among the fur-bearing animals of continental 
Alaska, but both in supply and demand a great decline has taken 
place during the last half century. It would seem that the smal- 
ler demand would cause an increase in the supply, but this has not 
been the case. Throughout the whole interior region north of 
Cook Inlet and south of Yukon river the beavers have fre- 
quently suffered from excessive and prolonged cold during the 
winter, the ice in rivers and ponds forming so rapidly and to such 
thickness that the animals found it impossible to keep open the 
approaches to their dwellings under water, and they died from 
starvation before the thaws of spring opened their prisons. The 
Indians of the Kinik and Tennanah rivers state that after an 
extraordinarily cold winter they have frequently found the putre- 
fying carcasses of hundreds of beavers in their so-called lodges. 
Thousands of old beaver dams all over the continental portion 
of Alaska also testify to the former abundance of the animal, 
which now is thinly scattered over the same ground. At nearly 
every trading post throughout Alaska where beaver skins are at 
all secured hundreds are purchased now where thousands appear 
on former records. 

The northern limit of the beaver seems to be but little to the 
southward of that of the land otter, considerably above the Arctic 
circle being identical with the limit of trees. Skins are obtained 
from the natives living on the northern tributaries of the Yukon 
River, which have passed into the hands of the latter from the 
headwaters of the Colville and other rivers emptying into the 
Arctic. 

All the streams emptying into Kotzebue Sound are still in- 
habited by the beaver, and it is found on the east shore of Norton 
Sound, along the whole course of the Yukon and its tributaries, 
among all the lakes and streams of the Yukon and Kuskokvim 
deltas, in the lake and river systems of the Togiak and Nushegak, 
about Lake Ilyamna and the lakes and rivers of the Aliaska Pen- 
insula down to a line identical with that forming the northern 
boundary of the Aleutian tribe. On the shores of Cook Inlet 
and the rivers emptying into the same the beaver is still com- 
paratively plentiful, especially in the vicinity of the large lakes 
occupying the central portion of the Kenai Peninsula. Beaver 
skins are also obtained from the natives occupying the headwaters 
of Copper river and the series of lakes connecting the river with 
the Kinik and the Sushetno rivers. 

In the southeastern section of Alaska, west of Mount St. 
Elias, traders report the existence of the beaver on streams and 
rivers of the mainland, but it is probable that most of the skins 



154 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

obtained in that vicinity come really from the British possession, 
whence all these rivers flow. 

In the past, when the Hudson Bay company reigned supreme 
throughout the beaver country of northwestern America, the skins 
of these animals represented in trade the value of an English shil- 
ling each, and were used and accepted as common currency. 
Within the Russian possessions the value was always somewhat 
higher, and at the present time the price of a beaver skin of aver- 
age size in Alaska is from $1.50 to $2.00, according to weight. 

The Indians of the interior and a few of the Eskimo tribes 
look upon the meat of the beaver as a great delicacy ; it is a dish 
that is always set before honored guests, and is much used during 
festivities. The long incisors of the beaver form an important 
item in the domestic economy of the natives who hunt this ani- 
mal, the extraordinary hardness of these teeth making it possible 
to use them in the manufacture of chisels, small adzes, and other 
tools used in the working of wood and bone. Under the rule 
of the Russian-American Company the exportation of castoreum 
was quite extensive, but now that article meets with no demand 
outside of the Chinese market, the Celestials still looking upon it 
as a valuable part of their materia medica. 

The Brown Bear (Ursus richardsonii). The brown bear of 
Alaska, a huge, shaggy animal, varying in length from 6 to 12 
feet, is distributed over nearly every section of Alaska, but seems 
to prefer an open, swampy country to the timber. The northern 
limit of this animal is about latitude 67° north where it is 
found on the headwaters of the rivers emptying into the Arctic 
and occasionallv on the streams emptying into Kotzebue Sound, 
and in the interior of the Kotzebue Peninsula. Being an expert 
fisher, the brown bear frequents during the salmon season all riv- 
ers emptying into Bering Sea and the North Pacific and their trib- 
utaries as far as the fish will go and at the end of the annual run 
of fish the animal retreats in the recesses of hills and tundra where 
berries and small game are most plentiful. The banks of all the 
streams are lined on either side with the well-trodden trails of 
these huge animals offering better facilities for the progress of the 
traveller than do the paths of men. The brown bear is the great 
road-maker of Alaska, and not only are the swampy plains inter- 
sected with paths made by him in all directions, leading generally 
to the easiest fording places of streams and rivers, but the hills 
and ridges of mountains to the very top show the traces of this 
omnipresent traveler. He shows great judgment and local know- 
ledge, for his road up the mountain is as safe to follow as is the 
most practicable route. In greatest numbers this animal is found 
in the region between the lower Kuskokvim, the Togiak and the 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 155 

Nushegak rivers and also on the Aliaska Peninsula and the island 
of Unimak. The island of Kadiak is full of this species of bear, 
but the largest specimens are shipped from the coast of Cook 
Inlet. The skin of a bear that had been killed in the vicinity of 
the Kenai mission during last summer, which I measured, 
was fourteen feet two inches in length. On the steep sides of the 
volcanic range of mountains, on the west side of Cook Inlet, 
brown bears can be seen in herds of twenty or thirty. Their skins 
are not very valuable, and, owing to this fact and to the fierce 
disposition of the animals, they are not commonly hunted. All 
natives of Alaska respect them and it is the universal custom of 
hunters to address a few complimentary remarks to the intended 
victims before attempting to kill them. Perhaps the skins of fully 
one-half of the brown bears killed throughout Alaska are retained 
by the natives for bedding and to hang before the entrances of 
houses in place of doors. The smaller skins are tanned and cut up 
into straps and lines and the natives of the interior utilize them 
for manufacturing sledge fastenings and the network bottoms of 
snowshoes, because this leather does not stretch when exposed 
to moisture, as moose and deer skins do. 

The Black Bear (Ursiis amcricaniis). The black bear of 
Alaska is widely distributed over the continental portion of the 
territory, but is generally confined to regions of timber and 
mountains ; as far as known, it exists only on a few islands in 
Prince William Sound and on Kadiak Island. The northern 
limit of the black bear extends, according to observations made 
by Mr. E. W. Nelson, even beyond that of his brown cousin. It 
is said to exist farther down the rivers emptying into the Arctic, 
and to be quite plentiful thence southward to the valley of the 
Yukon. The western limit of the region where the black bear is 
found is perhaps a line drawn from the Selawik River southeast- 
ward to Nulato, thence across to the Kuskokvim River in the 
vicinity of Kalmakovsky. From the upper Nushegak many skins 
are obtained, and one trader reports black bear even west of this 
line, on the lower left bank of the Kuskokvim and the Togiak 
Peninsula, but as that region is not timbered the statement ap- 
pears doubtful. From Bristol Bay eastward the black bear is 
confined to the timbered regions about Lake Ilyamna. but is more 
plentiful on the coast of Cook Inlet and in the interior of the 
Kenai Peninsula. From the headwaters of the Yukon. Ten- 
nanah, Sushetno, Kinik, and Copper rivers many black bear skins 
are brought down to the seacoast,and from Prince William Sound 
and eastward the mountains and forests harbor large number of 
these animals. These skins command high prices and are still 
increasing in value, but the animals are shy, and to hunt them re- 



156 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Tra ppers Guide. 

quires much time and patience. The natives do not fear them in 
the least, and, in fact, it is considered the work of boys to kill 
them. Owing to its value, probably, the natives never use the 
black bear skin for bedding. The glossiest and largest of these 
skins come from the St. Elias alpine range and the vicinity of 
Prince William Sound; but the black bear never attains the size 
of the brown variety. 

The Red Fox (Vidpes fulvns). The only fur-bearing ani- 
mal found in every section of Alaska is the red fox. From Point 
Barrow to the southern boundary, and from the British line to the 
island of Attn, this animal is ever present. It varies in size and 
quality of its fur from the finest Nushegak variety, equal to the 
high-priced Siberian fire fox down to the diminutive, yellow- 
tinged specimen that rambles furtively over the rocky islands of 
the Aleutian chain. Its color gives variety among the uniform 
snow-white robes of its polar cousin along the Arctic shore, and 
with the unwelcome persistency of the poor relation it mingles 
with the aristocratic black and silver foxes, always managing to 
deteriorate in course of time the blood and coating of the "first 
families." Mountain or valley, forest or swampy plain, all seem 
to be the same to him. The red fox seems perfectly indififerent 
these animals. These skins command high prices and are still 
in regard to his diet, fish, flesh and fowl being equally to his taste, 
with such little entremets as shellfish, mussels, and eggs of aquatic 
birds. He has an advantage over his fellows in the fact that his 
skin is cheap, and the natives do not eat his flesh except as a last 
resort in times of a famine. They hunt or trap the red fox only 
when nothing else can be obtained : the interior tribes, however, 
make winter garments of their skins. 

Being an inveterate and intrepid traveller, the red fox is not 
above making an occasional sea voyage on the ice, which explains 
his presence on all the islands of the Aleutian chain, the Shuma- 
gin group, and even on St. Lawrence and the Pribilof islands, 
over a hundred miles from any other land. It is common prac- 
tice among both Innuit and Indian tribes in the north to make 
household pets of young foxes whenever they can be secured alive. 
The average price of red-fox skins throughout the countr)'- is 
about $i.oo. 

The Black or Silver Fox (Vulpcs fulvns, var. argentatus) and 
The Cross Fox (Vulpes fulvns, var. decussatus). The king among 
the various tribes of the "vulpes" family is the black or silver 
fox. He is found in his prime in the mountain fastnesses of 
the interior and on the headwaters of the larger rivers. Here 
he appears of large size with long, soft, silky fur, varying in 
color from a silver tint to a jet-black, the latter being the 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 157 

most rare and highly valued. These two qualities are 
found principally in the mountains on the boundary between 
southeastern Alaska and British Columbia, in the country of the 
Chilkhats and the Takoos, on the upper Copper River, the Kenai 
Peninsula, and on the Sushetno and Kinik, the upper Yukon, 
Tennanah, and Kuskokvim rivers. In the last-named regions 
the traders pay from $10.00 to $15.00 for each skin, but in south- 
eastern Alaska, where competition is more fierce, as much as 
$40.00 or $50.00 in coin are frequently paid for a single skin. 
Along the Yukon and its northern tributaries the black fox of 
an inferior quality is found almost on the seacoast and on the 
shores of Norton Sound and in the interior of the Kotzebue Penin- 
sula. The animal is also reported to exist on the headwaters of the 
Colville River up to the sixty-eighth degree of latitude. Black foxes 
are quite plentiful on Kadiak Island, and they occur on the Shu- 
magin group, Onimak Island, and on most of the Aleutian Is- 
lands as far as Atkha, but to many of these points they have been 
imported through the agency of man. On the timberless high- 
lands of the Far West the fur of these animals seems to deter- 
iorate in quality. 

Another species of the fox family is generally found with the 
silver fox, forming, in fact, the connecting link between the red 
plebeian and the black aristocrat. This is the cross fox, partak- 
ing of the distinguishing qualities of both red and black, evi- 
dently the result of unrestrained intermixture. The quality and 
'the color of the fur of the cross fox come much nearer those of 
the red, and the skin of the former exceeds that of the latter but 
little in value — from $2.00 to $3.00 being paid for the best of them. 
While the distribution of the cross fox is naturally almost identi- 
cal with that of the silver varietv, the animal is found farther 
westward on the Aleutian Islands, and is more frequent on the 
Aliaska Peninsula, though on the islands of Prince William 
Sound and on Kadiak Island both the black and the cross varieties 
exist. 

The skins of silver foxes form the most important element in 
the trade of the whole Yukon Basin, being almost the only high- 
priced skins found in that vicinity, but they are by no means nu- 
merous. The only section of Alaska where these animals are of 
the best quality and in large numbers at the same time, is in 
the mountains about the Chilkhat and Takoo rivers, and there the 
reckless competition leaves but little margin for profit. 

The Arctic Fox (Vnlpes lagopiis — bhie and white). Of the 
Arctic fox we find in Alaska two varieties — one white and the 
other a bluish oray, commonly called "blue fox" by the traders. 
The white fox is found along the coast of continental Alaska 



158 Andersrli Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

from the mouth of the Kiiskokvim northward to Point Barrow 
and the eastern boundary. Its fur is of a snowy white, especially 
in the young, and both soft and long.; but, owing to the lack of 
durability, it does not command a high price in the market. 

The animal is very numerous northward of Norton Sound, 
and not at all shy. Natives and travellers alike report instances 
of the fearlessness with which these foxes enter their camps, and 
even dwellings in search of food or out of mere curiosity. A' 
large portion of the skins secured by Eskimo and other natives 
are used by themselves for trimming their garments, and the re- 
mainder falls chierty into the hands of whalers and whisky smug- 
glers, so that it is impossible to obtain accurate figures as to the 
annual catch. They may be called omnivorous, and they refuse 
nothing that will fill their stomachs. I observed one sleek and 
apparently well-fed specimen which devoured nearly the whole 
of a large salmon, and afterwards worried down with consider- 
able difiicultv a thick leather strap with a heavy buckle attached to 
it. In the depth of winter the natives find it unsafe to leave any 
article of clothing, dog harness, or boat material within their 
reach. 

The blue fox exists now on several of the Aleutian Islands, 
where it was found by the first discoverers in 1741. The animal 
is also found on the Pribilof Islands, and here, where it has been 
possible to protect the species against intermixture with other 
and inferior foxes, the skins are of the finest quality, command- 
ing a high price in the market. Traders report the existence of 
tlie blue fox to a limited extent in the vicinity of Ooga.shik, on the 
Aliaska Peninsula and also on the lower Kuskokvim, and it oTCurs 
also on the delta between the mouths of the Yukon and Kus- 
kokvim. Captain Hooper, of the revenue marine, who com- 
manded the United States steamer "Corwin" during two success- 
ive cruises in the Arctic, reports that he saw blue foxes at Cape 
Espenberg, Elephant Point, Hotham Inlet. Point Hope, Point 
Belcher, and Point Barrow. The same gentleman also states that 
he "found the blue fox much more plentiful on the Siberian than 
on the American coast, and that all of the blue foxes in the far 
north are so inferior to those on the islands of Bering Sea as to 
suggest the possibilitv of their being a different species." Even 
on the Arctic coast Captain Hooper saw blue foxes, taken at the 
same time and place, differing very much in the color and quality 
of the fur. On the Pribilof islands, from i.ooo to 1,500 of the 
best qualitv of blue-fox skins are annually shipped, and several 
hundred of a little inferior quality from Attoo and Atkha islands, 
but it is impossible to acertain the quantity obtained along the 
Arctic coast bv whalers and illicit traders. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 159 

The Mink (Putorius vison). The Alaska mink is dist.-i- 
buted almost as widely as the red fox, but does not extend to the 
islands. It is most plentiful in the vast tundras or mossy marshes 
of the lower Yukon, Kuskokvim, Togiak and Nushegak ba- 
sins. The skin is of very little value ; the Russian- Americar 
Company did not purchase it at all, and even now the trade in 
this article is confined chiefly to the natives, who manufacture it 
into garments or use it for trimming. No m.ore than 10,000 or 
15,000 of these small skins are exported annually. The northern 
limit of the mink is but little south of the Arctic coast, and from 
thence southward it is found everywhere throughout the conti- 
nent until its southern and western limits are reached on the Ali- 
aska Peninsula on a line between Cape Stroganof and Sutkhum 
Island. The only islands on which minks are found to exist are 
those in Prince William Sound and perhaps some of those in tl:e 
Alexander Archipelago. No skins of this kind shipped from any 
portion of Alaska equal in quality or value those of British Colum- 
bia, Washington, and Oregon, the traders simply buying them 
for the sake of accomodating their customers. The region about 
Togiak River and lakes, which furnishes scarcely any other fur 
than mink, has for that reason been entirely neglected by traders. 
Until a year ago no white man had penetrated into the recesses 
of the tundras, and the inhabitants, having no intercourse with 
civilized men, are still in their primitive condition of barbarism. 
The natives living on the Yukon and Kuskokvim deltas are called 
'"mink people" in derision by their neighbors — a term equivalent 
to beggar. 

The Marten (Mustcla aincricaniis). The limits wit^:in 
which the marten is found throughout Alaska are almost identi- 
cal with those of standing timber. The animal is found occasion- 
ally as far north as latitude 68° and inhabits the vallevs of the 
Yukon, Kukokvim, and Nushegak rivers from the headwaters 
down as far as timber exists, on the wooded mountain ranges of 
Cook Inlet and the Kenai Peninsula. On the Chugatch alps, the 
Copper River range, and the St. Elias alps martens are plentiful 
and of the finest quality. Very fine skirs of this kind are also 
purchased by the traders in southeastern Alaska, a portion of these 
probably being obtained from the British possessions. The Alas- 
kan marten or sable is inferior to the Siberian fur of that name 
("sable" is simply a corruption of the Russian word for marten 
"sobol," and is by no means a distinct animal). The Russian- 
American Company considered the Alaska sable of so little value 
that they did not export it at all from the colonies, but sold the 
whole catch to officers and employes of the company. The 
price set upon these skins under those circumstances was small 



160 Andersch Bros/ H unters and Trappers Guide. 

indeed, being only lo cents each. After the transfer of the 
Territory a demand for them arose, and in a few years of com- 
petition raised the price to $4, $5, and even $6, much to the de- 
light of the astonished natives, but the inferiority of the article 
soon made itself felt, and reaction set in until at the present day 
the price of marten skins in northwestern Alaska does not exceed 
$1.50, though in the southeastern section excessive competition 
still keeps up a higher figure. 

A few more fur-bearing animals existing in Alaska may be 
mentioned, but they are not of sufficient importance to deserve 
more than a passing notice. The polar bear is found on the Arc- 
tic coast, where ice in large bodies exists, and with the moving 
ice fields he enters and leaves the waters of Bering Sea. The 
number of skins annually secured forms but a very small item in 
the bulk of trade. 

The Lynx. The lynx is found only in the wood mountains 
of the interior on the Kenai peninsula and the St. Elias range 
of mountains, the skins being used chiefly for carriage robes and 
trimming, but the fur is not durable. 

Wolves, both gray and white, are found, but rarely killed. 

Muskrats exist all over Alaska, but the skins are at most 
valueless, and but few are shipped away. 

Rabbits and marmots are killed only for their flesh, and oc- 
casionally the natives use the skins of the latter for the garments 
of the poor. 

Wolverines are rarely exported, as they find a ready market 
among the inhabitants of the coast region of the Yukon and Kus- 
kokvim divisions, who prefer this shaggy piebald fur to any other 
trimming for their garments. 




PART TWO 

Encyclopedia 

of 

Hunting and Trapping The Fur Bearing Animals 

of 
NORTH AMERICA 

Especially Pertaining to 

TRAPPING 

How to Skin Animals, Manner of Stretching Skins, Trappers Secrets, 

Preparing Decoys and Poison; How to Make Dead Falls, 

Box, Barrel and other Traps, Sliding, Spring Poles, 

Snares, Kind of Traps to Use and Manner 

of Setting Them. 

Illustrating All 
RAW FUR SKINS 

Steel Traps, Dead Falls, Box Traps, Dug Outs, Pit Falls, Etc. 

TRAPPING THE ERMINE OR WEASEL. 

The weasel and ermine kill indiscriminately for food and 
pleasure such birds and animals as it can master; chief amongst 
them are mice, rats, rabbits, ground and chirping squirrels and 
nearly all birds and fowls, both wild and domestic. Both 
of these diminutive monsters, in their ceaseless quest for food and 
to satisfy their individual irresistible craving for blood, dart 
from one opening into another, whether that be a hollow log, 
burrow, stone pile or crevice of a rock. Upon exploration, should 
the abode be unoccupied, the animal's stay is a momentary one, 
and it will immediately decamp, taking the shortest route to the 
next opening; if inhabited, a general tumult follows. The weasel 
and ermine are more beneficial than detrimental in farming com- 
munities and should only be killed when continued losses of poul- 
try occur. The animal's favorite hold is upon the neck, and it 
quenches its insatiable vampire-like thirst by lapping the blood 
from its victim. 

If the animal's capture is desired, it can be accomplished by 
steel traps placed in their run-ways, holes, crevices, burrows, etc. 
In most cases, the animal is taken in traps originally set for 
mink and marten. The same methods as are applied to mink 
and marten should be followed in the capture of these two ani- 
mals. A good place to set the steel trap is in a hollow tree, hollow 
log, abandoned hole or abode of other animals, and in the front 
or rear of small openings through which the animal enters. Wire 
traps can be used advantageously, so can tree traps ; the latter can 
be utilized in various places. Bait is unnecessary when the traps 



M I I I III I i M M I I 




WEASEL AND ERMINE SKINS "Raw" 

AU Siz^s. Scale Shows Inches and Feet, 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 163 

are set in their habitual run-ways ; at other places a piece of meat 
hung over the trap, or head of a chicken or rabbit, placed within 
the abode, will answer admirably. 

The skins should be handled similarly to mink or marten 
skins; the fur part can be on the out or inside. A three-piece 
stretcher is recommended ; the skin is very tender, and great care 
must be exercised in stretching and removing the skin from the 
stretcher not to tear or burst it. Only white-furred skins should 
be marketed as the brown skins have no commercial value, but 
should one of the latter species be captured, it is a useless waste 
of time to skin the animal and stretch the skin. 

Traps can be baited with bits of meat, hung over the trap. 
A good place to set the trap is in a hollow tree, hollow log, 
abandoned holes or abodes of other animals. Bait should be 
used. 

TRAPPING THE MINK. 

These animals are. caught in various ways, depending upon 
the location, time of year, on land or in water. Some trappers 
consider the capturing of this animal an easy task ; others con- 
tend that the animal is equally as sly and as cute as the red fox. 
The mink certainly and readily scents the hunter, trapper or 
works of man, and will shy on his approach and from things 
made by him, especially on or about his usual paths. 

The animal is captured by the use of snares, steel traps, dead- 
falls, box, barrel and other home-made traps ; also the rifle is 
sometimes resorted to, but the trapper who makes trapping a 
business, is contented with the former three methods of captur- 
ing the mink. 

Snares are resorted to by all classes of trappers, even to 
the present day, not only in this country, but also in Europe. 
The snares are made out of strong linen or silk thread, silk 
lines, linen lines, copper or brass wires; also horsehairs. The 
proper way and place to set these snares is about the paths or 
in front of the holes which the animal frequents. Some make 
an artificial abode and place bait therein, and as the mink enters 
becomes caught. Spring poles or other methods should be 
adapted or attached to the snares, which takes the animal oflf the 
ground, otherwise the victim is likely to be carried away or the 
fur badly damaged by such animals as the fox, fisher, wolf and 
wolverene, or manage to escape. 

The use of the rifle is advised, though the skins becomes more 
or less damaged. The shot-gun is detrimental to the skin, and 
the practice of killing the animal with this instrument should be 
avoided whenever possible. 




MINK SKINS. "Dressed" 

All Sizes. Northern and Northwest. Scale Shows Inches and Feet. 



Andersch Bros/ Buniers and Trappers Guide. 165 

The reader is directed to carefully peruse the article under 
marten, fox, muskrat; also to study the art of making and 
setting of the various kinds of traps, the illustrations of which 
can be found on other pages. As this animal can be captured 
in so many different ways, almost any of the styles can be 
successfully adapted in the capture of the mink as well as the 
marten. It is not an easy matter to kill minks, as trappers say 
the mink has seven lives, and naturally the animal dies hard; 
therefore, in hunting the animal with the rifle or shot-gun, the 
wound, in order to become effective, must be a severe one, as a 
mere flesh wound will only retard the animal momentarily. 

The use of steel traps is preferred, but when inconvenient 
or the supply becomes exhausted, other home-made traps can be 
resorted to ; but regardless of the kind of traps used, the chief aim 
and ambition of the trapper should be to use such traps that will 
securely hold the animal and retain the value of the pelt, also 
to cause a speedy death. Steel traps should be set along 
river banks, and generally where one creek empties into another, 
upon paths, about holes, stumps or trees and hollow logs. If the 
trapper cannot find a convenient place to set his traps it sometimes 
behooves him to dig a hole or to make an artificial abode. If the 
latter is attempted, care and judgment in retaining the natural sur- 
roundings of the former conditions is essential, and the use of 
a good bait is recommended. 

The author has set steel traps. No. ly^ and No. 2, also has 
seen experienced trappers set such traps in barricaded places 
using an old tree, stones, ground, sod, etc., to make the abode. 
The making of such an abode is simple, effective and success- 
ful, although the trapper is sometimes obliged to wait for days 
or weeks for a victim. The traps should be set at a convenient 
place about the opening, somewhat below the level of the earth, 
and covered with fine bits of loose earth or leaves ; a little cotton 
or leaves should be placed under the pan. Bits of rotten wood 
or feathers, whenever the latter are handy, should be strewn 
about the trap and within the abode. Great care should be taken 
that the animal is obliged to enter the opening left, and not to 
force an entrance in some other vital or detrimental part of the 
abode. 

If bait is used, the latter should be placed six to eight inches 
beyond the trap in the abode. The proper bait to use is birds, 
fish, pieces of muskrat, or fish oil. If meat is used, same should 
be smoked. Some trappers burn a piece of paper or some dry 
leaves in the abode after the meat bait is set, thus eradicating 
human scent, and at the same time smoking the meat. A spring 
or sliding pole should be used whenever possible, as the former 




Upper Row 
Mink Skins 



MINK and MARTEN SKINS 

Center Marten Skins 
Improperly Skinned 



Low Row 
Marten Skins 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 167 

will lift the animal in the air, the other carry the victim into deep 
water to drown. 

Deadfalls or other homemade traps working on this principle, 
are often used, especially by trappers in the far interior, who 
find plenty of time to make them. A good way to make a trap is 
to procure a two-inch plank, about one to two feet long, six to 
eight inches wide, into which a two-inch hole should be bored, 
and sharpened nails driven into the plank about the hole, in 
such a manner that if the mink places his head into the hole 
after bait, it cannot be withdrawn, as the nails will prevent the 
withdrawal, and naturally the animal is in a helpless condition. 
The nails must not be driven too close nor too far, and the open- 
ing must be sufficient to permit the animal to place his head 
through. Care must be taken that the animal will not escape by 
sliding clear through. See illustration for particulars. 

The mink as well as the marten can be successfully lured to 
the place where traps are set. Many decoys are good ; the most 
common and easiest to procure is fish oil. Elsewhere in this book 
will be found methods of making these decoys, manner in which 
they are used, etc. Some trappers smear some of this decoy on 
their boots ; others drag scented bait along the paths. 

Wire traps can be successfully used ; many trappers prefer 
them when they have an opportunity to set a trap in front of a 
hole, as a matter of fact they all recommend them in such cases. 
They are conveniently carried, easy to set and cost less than 
steel traps. Use the No. 2. 

A new trap called the "Tree Trap'' is being used and while 
some claim this trap cannot be set except on trunks of trees, 
others use them at different locations with good success. There 
are now so many makes of traps that what one trapper likes 
another would not have, but the majority, especially the success- 
ful trappers, stick to the Newhouse. 

TRAPPING THE MARTEN. 

These animals are as difficult to capture as minks, and as 
they largely inhabit extremely cold regions, the weather forces 
increased hardships^ upon the hunter or trapper. Martens are 
captured in traps similar to minks, but the traps are set more in 
the woods about bushes, hollow logs and sometimes in holes in 
the ground. 

It is seldom that a rifle can be used effectively ; however, 
woodsmen and expert hunters find little difficulty in bringing 
down this valuable fur-bearing animal. The many skins that are 
received by fur dealers show signs that death was caused by a 
penetrating bullet. The bait is usually birds, fish, wild fowl and 





No. 2, Partly Prime Skins of 

Canada FISHEBS 



No. 3, Unprime 
Michigan 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 169 

pieces of meat. It must be remembered that the bait need not 
be large; on the other hand small pieces only are required. 
Heads of various species of fish, geese, ducks and legs of rabbits 
are sufficient and suitable. 

The average trapper prefers the Newhouse steel traps, and 
the hunter his trusty rifle. It should be noted that many times 
mink, instead of marten, become the victim ; therefore the same 
tactics should be used for both animals, especially if the traps 
are set upon land and in a timber country. 

In former years the marten v^^as ordinarily captured in 
wooden traps of very simple construction, made by the inhabitants 
in the vicinity in which the animal was captured. (See illustration.) 
These figure-four arrangements are usually enclosed in a line 
of stakes driven into the ground in the form of a V or U. The 
marten is forced to enter an opening especially left for him, and 
in seeking the bait, steps upon the trigger. At other times the 
bait is attached to the trigger itself, and when the animal disturbs 
same the log falls upon his head, smashing the skull. Lines of 
such traps extend many miles. The bait used by Indians, half- 
breeds and the early trappers, was a piece of squirrel, fish, bird 
or rabbit. 

One of the greatest obstacles that the early marten trapper 
had to contend with in most parts of Canada, was the persistent 
destruction of these traps by the wolverene and fisher. These ani- 
mals, especially the former, displayed great cunning and perse- 
verence, and intentionally followed these lines of traps, not for 
the purpose of obtaining the bait but to destroy the traps and 
seemingly to make the marten hunters' life miserable. 

The marten is also captured by snares ; he being an expert 
climber, the snares can be arranged between the forks of trees 
through which the animal passes in his upward flight; at other 
times in openings of hollow trees. These home-made traps and 
contrivances have been replaced by the steel trap. As many 
as two hundred traps are attended to by a single trapper. These 
traps like the old figure four arrangement, are set in abodes and 
left there during the entire season. A Hudson Bay Trapper 
informed the author that these abodes are not specifically made 
to draw the animal into, but more so to protect the setting from 
bad weather, also to keep rabbits and birds from springing the 
traps. 

Wire traps can be used, also the new Tree Traps, but from 
best information obtainable neither of these take well with the 
old and experienced marten trappers. Set guns are now pro- 
hibited in most states and parts of Canada, and their use should 
be discontinued. 



170 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

TRAPPING THE FISHER. 

This animal is caught in steel traps similar to mink, marten, 
and often the trapper, much to his surprise, finds a fisher instead 
of the smaller animal; also traps set for foxes and wolves are 
sprung by the fisher. The fisher is exceedingly strong, and a 
powerful animal for its size, therefore the use of No. 23/2 
and No. 3 traps are better adapted than the smaller mink or 
marten traps. His food consists chiefly of small animals, 
such as rabbits, squirrels, mice, rats, birds, and he consumes 
large quantities of fish, although the former are preferred by 
him. He lives, the greater part of the time, in bushes and 
timber country, in close vicinity to water ; but is known to lie 
on shore, especially on a log that lays across a river or creek, 
for hours, watching the opportunity to capture the slick pickerel 
or trout. 

If the animal is to be lured to the trap by the use of decoy, 
the trap should be barricaded by and with logs, stumps, stones, 
earth, weeds, etc., leaving one place of access. It is advisable 
to have the trap set at least six inches within the abode, and 
the bait placed eighteen to twenty inches beyond the trap. The 
opening should be six to eight inches in diameter. Some trappers 
prefer to make a slight excavation before covering and bar- 
ricading the trap. 

While in Winnipeg I spoke to an old Hudson Bay trapper 
in regard to trapping fisher, and was informed that spring poles 
should be used in preference to any other appliances in con- 
nection with steel traps ; but the author believes equally as good 
results can be obtained by having traps attached to more 
modern appliances for lifting the animal from the ground 
and beyond harm of the wolf and other animals. For bait the 
author suggests the use of fish, rabbit, or a decapitated bird, 
and if the fisher is to be lured or attracted to the trap, beaver 
decoy mixed with fish oil and a little oil of anise, should be 
smeared in vicinity of the trap. Some trappers place this prepar- 
ation on the sole of their shoes or boots and walk to the traps, 
while others place the decoy in a buckskin bag which contains 
some cotton, the latter absorbs the decoy, and as the bag is drawn 
over the earth, the smell protrudes through the small openings 
which have been previously made in the bag. The bag should 
be drawn towards the trap, not away from the trap. The 
trapper will sometimes find a trap sprung by a fox, mink, or a 
marten, and in some instances by a wolverene, but the latter are 
usually caught by following a line of traps and while in the 
HCt of devouring a previous victim. The mink trap will hardly 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Tr appers Guide. 171 

hold fisher or wolverene, unless the trap is attached to a strong 
spring pole, and then it is doubtful, as the weight of the animal 
will cause its leg to slide through the jaws of the trap. Dead- 
fall traps are very practical and are continually used by hundreds 
of trappers, especially by Canadian Indians and half-breeds. Both 
snares and deadfalls should be set in places where the animal 
frequents. The same bait and decoy used with steel traps can be 
advantageously applied to snares, deadfalls and other home- 
made traps. It is necessary that the steel traps be buried in the 
usual manner ; spring poles or other appliances should be used, 
in preference to drag or clog, yet some trappers prefer a clog or 
drag fastened to a long chain or to a stationary object. Sliding 
poles can be adapted in some places, while sunken barrels or box 
traps can be used to advantage in certain localities. The latter 
must be strongly built, otherwise the fisher will escape unless so 
arranged that if captured he will drown in short order. 

TRAPPING THE WOLVERENE. 

This great michievous animal inhabits timber sections and 
plays havoc with lines of traps set for mink and marten. They 
are troublesome to the hunter, otherwise, by devouring pro- 
visions, stealing clothing, cooking utensils, etc., from the trapper's 
cabin. They can be captured in steel traps, snares, deadfalls, etc. 
but owing to their cuteness, great strength, peculiar habits and 
training, they will seldom fall a victim. 

A Canadian half-breed trapper relates that after a single 
wolverene had destroyed hundreds of dollars worth of his furs, 
following and releasing traps for a period of three months and 
practically the entire season, he was fortunate enough to capture 
him. He set a No. i^ steel trap in the usual way for mink and 
marten, and surrounding this trap he placed three No. 3 steel 
traps properly* arranged with spring poles. The wolverene visited 
the scene many times, and on two occasions the trapper found 
signs of his usual depredations, but the third or fourth time the 
wolverene sprung one of the traps and was lifted high from the 
ground. 

The wolverene is detested by professional trappers, who spend 
weeks following this horrid creature at the expense of other 
work. 

An aged hunter and trapper, upon his return from the civil 
war in 1865, settled in the upper part of Michigan, where he 
continued his vocation. On one occasion he relates that he cap- 
tured this marauder after a fruitless effort of three weeks' con- 
tinued watching, and at one time this wolverene led Mr. Graham 
for thirty miles, who, upon return to the cabin in three days, 



172 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Chiide. 

found fresh tracks of the animal, and upon setting six nests, 
(three steel traps to each nest), placed at intervals, baiting with 
pieces of beaver, otter, muskrats, parts of fur scented with casto- 
reum, finally captured a large wolverene. 

He invariably used deadfalls and No. 3 steel traps attached 
to spring poles, and "Of all voracious animals," says Mr. Gra- 
ham, "the wolverene is the hardest to trap, but by running him 
down and skillfully manipulating the traps for his reception, by 
no means become discouraged, and you will triumph and bring 
the evil-doer to the end of his rope." 

Poison can be successfully applied if placed within a carcass 
of a marten, mink, bird or muskrat; also small pieces strewn 
about. 

The following is borrowed from Mr. Lockhart: "At Peel's 
River, on one occasion, a very old wolverene discovered my 
marten road, on which I had nearly a hundred and fifty traps. I 
was in the habit of visiting the line about once a fortnight; but 
the beast fell into the way of coming oftener than I did, to my 
great annoyance and vexation. I determined to put a stop to 
his thieving and his life together, cost what it might. So I made 
six strong traps at as many different points, and also set three 
steel traps. For three weeks I tried my best to catch the beast, 
without success ; and my worst enemy would allow that I am no 
green hand in these matters. The animal carefully avoided the 
traps set for his own benefit, and seemed to be taking more delight 
than ever in demolishing my marten traps and eating the martens, 
scattering the poles in every direction, and caching what baits 
or martens he did not devour on the spot. As we had no poison 
in those days, I next set a gun on the bank of a little lake. The 
gun was concealed in some low bushes, but the bait was so placed 
that the wolverene must see it on his way up the bank. I block- 
aded my path to the gun with a small pine tree which completely 
hid it. On my first visit afterward I found that the beast had 
gone up to the bait and smelled it, but had left it untouched. He 
had next pulled up the pine tree that blocked the path and gone 
around the gun and cut the line which connected the bait with the 
trigger, just behind the muzzle. 

Then he had gone back and pulled the bait away and carried 
it out on the lake, where he laid down and devoured it at his 
leisure. There I found my string. I could scarcely believe that 
all this had been done designedly, for it seemed that faculties 
fully on a par with human reason would be required for such an 
exploit, if done intentionally. I therefore rearranged things, 
tying the string where it had been bitten. But the result was 
exactly the same for three successive occasions, as I could plainly 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 173 

see by the footprints ; and what is most singular of all, each time 
the brute was careful to cut the line a little back of where it had 
been tied before, as if actually reasoning with himself that even 
the knots might be some new device of mine, and therefore a 
source of hidden danger he would prudently avoid. I came to 
the conclusion that that wolverene ought to live, as he must be 
something at least human, if not worse. I gave it up and aband- 
oned the road for a period. 

"On another occasion a wolverene amused himself, much as 
usual, by tracking my line from one end to the other and demol- 
ishing my traps as fast as I could set them. I put a large steel 
trap in the middle of a path that branched oflf among some 
willows, spreading no bait, but risking the chance that the animal 
would 'put his foot in it' on his way to break a "trap at the end 
of the path. On my next visit I found that the trap was gone, 
but I noticed the blood and entrails of a hare that had evidently 
been caught in the trap and devoured by the wolverene on the 
spot. Examining his footprints I was satisfied that he had not 
been caught, and I took up his trail. Proceeding about a mile 
through the woods I came to a small lake, on the banks of which 
I recognized traces of the trap, which the beast had laid down 
in order to go a few steps to one side to njake water on a stump. 
He had then returned and picked up the trap, which he had 
carried across the lake, with many a twist and turn on the hard 
crust of snow to mislead his expected pursuer, and then again 
entered the woods. I followed for about half a mile farther 
and then came to a large hole dug in the snow. This place, 
however, seemed not to have suited him, for there was nothing 
there. A few yards farther on, however, I found a neatly built 
mound of snow on which the animal had made water and left 
his dirt ; this I knew was his cache. Using one of my snowshoes 
for a spade, I dug into the hillock and down to the ground, 
the snow being about four feet deep ; and there I foun4 my trap, 
with the toes of a rabbit still in the jaws. Could it have been 
the animal's instinctive impulse to hide prey that made him carry 
my trap so far merely for the morsel of meat still held in it? 
Or did his cunning nature prompt him to hide the trap for fear 
that on some future unlucky occasion he might put his own toes 
in it and share the rabbit's fate?" 

The skin should be cased similar to mink, marten and fisher. 
Retain its size and do not over-stretch. If skins are to be 
stretched flat or open, cut open upon the belly in process of skin- 
ning and stretch in a frame or upon some smooth, flat surface and 
dry in a shady place away from the sun and artificial heat. Fasten 
skin in frame with withes or laces. All fat must be removed. 




Gray Fox Skin 

&ltt Fox sun 



Bed Fox Skin 



Gray Fox Skin 
Swift Fox Skin' 



Andersch B ros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 175 

TRAPPING THE FOX. 

This animal, like the wolf, is hard to capture or trap. It 
belongs to the dog or wolf family, and is carnivorous in its habits. 
The different variations number as high as twenty-one, but in 
this country eight species are commonly known to the hunter 
and general public, though naturalists claim as many as thirteen 
varieties on the western continent. As they resemble each other 
closely in appearance, habits, kind of food, and all possess un- 
usually fine sense of smell, sight, hearing, and are rapid in loco- 
motion, we shall not endeavor to place the different species when 
it comes to capturing the animal for the pelt or to kill for other 
reasons, under various headings, but under one common and 
generally applicable rule. 

The fox can be caught in various ways, and with many dif- 
ferent traps and ingenious appliances, common to the hunter and 
trapper, especially of the frontier days. 

Steel traps are now commonly used ; the No. 2 trap is prefer- 
able and sufficiently strong to hold any full-grown animal, though 
in localities where such game as lynx, wild cat and wolf exist, 
larger traps should be set. It is advisable in all cases, to smear 
the trap and chain with blood, beeswax, lard, etc., to prevent the 
smell of iron from alarming the animals. The chain should be 
attached to a clog weighing about eight to ten pounds, and be 
buried the usual depth. Loose bits of earth, or what is still better, 
wood ashes, should be strewn over the excavated portion under 
which the traps are buried. The smell of the ashes, especially if 
wet, often is sufficiently strong to overcome the smell of iron. 

Traps should be nested by having three to five traps to one 
bait. It is advisable to set the traps on an elevation ; some knoll 
or high ground will answer admirably. 

Birds, skinned muskrats, or other small, freshly skinned or 
bleeding animals, will answer for bait ; the latter should be 
fastened so as to detain the fox, and should he endeavor to pull at 
the bait or walk around it, the chances of his springing a trap is 
greatly increased. Occasionally two traps are sprung in his fran- 
tic endeavors to free himself. It is advisable to set a trap slightly 
in or just before a hole or excavation to or from which tracks lead ; 
should the animal be absent, most likely he will return the follow- 
ing night. Bury the trap and clog in the usual manner, and smear 
a little of the musk or matrix from the female fox above or beyond 
the trap, but not on the trap, chain or clog. 

An experienced trapper informed me that he was very suc- 
cessful in catching foxes by tying a live bird or mouse in the 
center of a nest of four No. 3 traps. The mice were caught in 




RED FOX AND WILD CAT SKINS 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 177 

small wire traps, and then a lig:ht brass or aluminum chain was 
tied with linen thread to one of their feet, likewise to the bird's, 
one or both fastened in center of nested traps and left to the mercy 
of the game. Sufficient nourishment was left with the mouse or 
bird, to prevent starvation. It is wise to try this plan, but in our 
judgment, a chicken or a duck would be more acceptable, espe- 
cially, if the fox has frequented the roost, and the farmer or 
trapper desires to risk another fowl in order for the thief to" 
become the victim. 

Wool, moss, leaves, deer hair, cotton and the like, should 
be placed beneath the pan and around the jaws. A horse's tail 
or piece of sheep pelt should be used to brush away loose bits 
of earth from the excavation, also in visiting traps, especially 
when the trap was accidentally sprung, it is advisable to attach 
a piece of sheep skin or other fur to the boots and approach the 
traps in this manner. In handling traps or working about them, 
and in the act of setting, always wear gloves ; some trappers 
smear their gloves with blood or decoy. 

If meat be placed about the traps in small chunks, it is pre- 
ferable that same is fried. Honey bait about the trap answers 
well, and is sometimes more successful than meat bait. Some 
trappers drag a piece of fresh meat or poultry about the trap 
with the intention of leading game to it. The bait is oftei 
placed on a stick about two feet above the traps. A European 
Jager (licensed hunter) placed a steel trap near to a flowing 
spring in about two inches of water, the surroundings were cleared 
of moss, stones, etc., and the bait arranged so that the fox 
would naturally step with his front feet on the pan, which was 
covered with moss, to keep from wetting his feet, thus spring- 
ing the trap and becoming the victim. 

A spring pole can be used advantageously, especially if the 
traps cannot be visited every twenty-four hours. Some of the 
northwestern farmers are unusually lucky in ridding their ranch 
or farm of wolves and foxes, also making a little spending 
money during the dull winter months, by setting traps and 
capturing these animals. The traps are set in various places, 
and both steel and deadfalls are used. The former is buried 
In the usual manner, and instead of being covered with earth, 
leaves and the like, the excavations are covered with manure taken 
from hen coop, which is strewn about, while the musk of the 
female fox, wolf or dog, taken during the mating season, is 
smeared about the deadfall trap. 

Many farmers and trappers use the deadfall very advan- 
tageously while others prefer to snare such game in the old 



4 



S^ 








..at-rr'^*;^. ,,,,) 



Tixotui-eAJ 



A'^i'jS'i^^^ • 



Andersch Bros.' Hunte rs and Trappers Guide. 179 

fashion. If snares are to be used it is advisable to attach same to 
spring poles. 

Whenever opportunity presents the fox can be killed with 
a rifle, as the pelt is not damaged extensively, and seldom grades 
as damaged with the fur dealer. 

This animal can also be poisoned with strychnine, but as a rule 
shuns such bait, unless exceedingly hungry. The author has 
known poisoned bait to lie for twenty to thirty diys undis- 
turbed, although the fox has frequented and even watered in the 
vicinity without disturbing same, but shortly thereafter a heavy 
snow storm set in, and as food was scarce, the fox scratched 
for the bait, which he easily located, ate same, and his corpse 
was found within twenty-five yards. The poison should be mixed 
with a little honey or lard and a dose inserted in a piece of meat ; 
five to ten such pieces should be strewn about. If you have 
reason to believe that one of these pieces was devoured, look 
carefully in the vicinity and you are sure to find the corpse. 

TRAPPING THE WOLF. 

This animal is difficult to capture, being swift, cute and out- 
wits humanity in chase. In most cases they are captured by 
the use of steel traps, snares, rifle, poison, and with other do- 
mestic paraphernalia. The same tactics used in hunting foxes 
can be applied to wolves ; but one must reason and allow for 
the great strength, cuteness and habits . For trapping wolves 
No. 4 steel traps are recommended, which should be set in 
conspicuous places, usually in cattle runs, cattle trails, water- 
ing places, near corrals or wagon roads, foot paths, also in 
■ woods, brushes, about dead animals, etc. It largely depends upon 
the kind of wolf and the locality, also time of the year. 

Some set the traps right in the cattle trails, trusting to the 
wolf to walk in them, others between two trees or dead log and 
tree, also in path between and under bushes. The use of a 
grab hook (iron 4-prong hook) attached to a fifteen to thirty 
pound log (see cut) should be invariably attached to the steel trap. 
The former will make a trail that can easily be followed by the 
trapper to the location of the captured wolf, who generally drags 
the clog fifty to two hundred yards, sometimes a mile away. The 
hook will detain the wolf and increase the hardship of his travel 
and often, when the animal roams frantically about, will be 
detained by the hook becoming caught in bushes or the ground. 
Never attach two traps to one clog, neither is it advisable to 
attach the chain to a stationary object, as the victim is likely 
to tear loose, break, chew or twist his leg out of the trap. 





'^^. 







H--fiYVTvca. t>ia->r<\u5<^^ 



Andersch Bros.' Hunte rs and Trappers Guide. 181 

In setting steel traps, on cattle trails the traps should be set 
three to six inches apart, and the clog as well as the traps 
buried. One should avoid tl:e deeply worn spots and choose a 
place near weeds or bushes. Spread a blanket or large open wool 
sack near place of excavation on which throw all loose dirt, also 
stand on same while working as much as possible. When the 
holes are ready, bury clogs, chains and traps and carefully cover 
with dirt or sod. One of the chief objects to be attained is to see 
that the pan does not rest upon the earth ; if any danger ofl 
filling in under pan, place a quantity of loose cotton under- 
neath. To obtain good and prompt results, arrange the sur- 
roundings to the former natural condition. One should avoid 
artificial arrangements of appearance and remove all loose soil. 

The best arrangements or order of setting four traps on a 
cattle trail is to bury two clogs on each side and only excavate 
a few inches deep where the trap is to be set, which should be 
so arranged that the inner jaw of the trap is about one inch 
away from centre of path. (See illustration.) 

Traps should not be handled with bare hands, but with gloves 
smeared with fresh blood or smoked; the former is preferable. 
The traps themselves should be held over smoke or dipped in 
fresh blood. Tie a piece of sheep pelt or other kind of furred 
skin on bottom of shoes when visiting traps or setting them. 
Sprinkle blood about the places where traps are set, and it is 
also advisable to scatter bits of meat in vicinity thereof. Some 
smear traps with decoy oils, others claim the decoy and oil is a 
detriment to success. The author suggests, in this style of 
setting, not to use any artificial oils, whatever, but if any decoy 
is used preference should be given to the fluid from the female 
wolf or dog taken during mating season, which should be 
smeared on bushes or on a stick placed about the traps, if 
consistent, one or two feet above the trap. The latter is sure to 
be a drawing card, and wolves will be attracted from long dis- 
tances. 

Traps set about a dead carcass is a splendid idea, but one 
should note that wolves will not eat old or diseased meat, unless 
possessed with extreme hunger. However it is seldom indeed 
when this animal does not possess a good appetite, therefore, part 
of the dead carcass is consumed or carried away. 

When a wolf lacks appetite and crosses scent of food, he 
naturally follows it up until the article or body is reached. 
Should the article be small he will grab, shake and carry it away 
to his hiding place or bury same ; if large or ill-suited, he will 
turn and water upon it. 

It is common for wolf hunters to have seventy-five to one 



182 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



hundred twenty-five traps scattered, and probably in as high as 
fifty settings, but as the traps should be visited at least once a 
day, and naturally so many traps or settings cover a large dis- 
trict, it will be noted that little time will be left to skin the 
victims and handle the pelt, therefore the latter should be left 
for others who can care for the skin properly as well as 
promptly. 

In visiting traps set for wolves, one should ride horseback 
or in a wagon dragging a freshly killed animal behind, which 
should be attached to a rope, and the latter to the horn of a 
saddle or axle. 

A good place to set traps is (if one is fortunate to find a 
place) where wolves recently devoured some animal and especially 
if parts thereof remain. Mr. Wolf is sure to come again. 
Western ranchers attach the chain of the trap to a beef head 
which answers for bait as well as a clog. 

A certain western rancher set his traps in two rows, probably 
four to six feet apart, carefully burying the clogs and traps, and 
in three or four days thereafter would ride horseback dragging 
a freshly skinned and bleeding sheep or calf for miles and ride 
between the traps and drop the carcass there. Sufficient time 
had elapsed for the eradication of all human scent from the 
time traps were set to the time the bait was dropped. This 
latter method is a secret, and well worth the time and expense, 
as one is likely to rid the ranch of these howling devastators. 
The rancher sometimes got a wolf in each trap every night, and 
the traps were set in the same position for some weeks and less 
costly bait or none thereafter was used. 

Another method to catch wolves or other animals, or even 
bears is to dig a hole six to ten feet square and five to six feet 
deep and set traps along the outside of the hole about twelve to 
fifteen inches from the edge. The chains can either be secured to 
some stake driven within the pitfall or attached to some weight 
suspended upon temporary brackets. By the latter method, the vic- 
tim is usually caught by one of the fore feet and in its endeavor to 
free itself, or to decamp, the weight to which the chain is attached 
and which hangs suspended within the pitfall, descends and pulls 
the animal within the pit ; thus making him a chained prisoner. 

As far as bait is concerned, a bleating calf or a squealing pig 
lowered in the pit is probably the best. If the former are unob- 
tainable, some dead animal dragged behind a wagon, or attached 
by means of a rope, to the horn of a saddle, and, thrown into the 
pit, makes an excellent bait. The wolf or the fox will readily 
pick up the scent, follow it to the pit, and become a victim. The 
idea is to bring the wolf to the pit and then in smelling around 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 183 

in close proximity to the pit, should spring one of the concealed 
steel traps and be drawn or thrown within the hole. A dead dog 
(preferably female) also the carcass of a wolf or fox, if dragged 
in various directions to this pit, will surely be followed shoLild 
any of the animals of the dog family cross the trail. 

The noise of the captured wolf and the bait therein will 
attract other wolves who come to ascertain the trouble, and if 
they are curious or close observers, they naturally will attempt 
to get very close to the excavation and be caught. If this method 
is adopted the traps should be set about two feet apart and care- 
fully concealed. (See illustration) 

There are a great many other ways of setting steel traps 
but the foregoing will give anyone with fair intelligence, and 
those who possess the genuine trapper's sagacity, to compre- 
hend the art of setting these traps for wolves at various places. 
It should be observed that the surroundings be the least pos- 
sible disturbed, and all the loose earth removed. A blanket or open 
wool sack should be used, on which loose earth is to be thrown, 
and whatever is not used must be carried away for some distance. 

Snares can be advantageously used in brush or timber 
country, especially for gray wolves. These snares should be 
strong and so arranged that the animals are caught by the 
neck, as, if caught by the foot, Mr. Wolf may get away, not- 
withstanding the use of a spring pole. The spring pole must 
lift the animal entirely off the ground, otherwise the victim will 
escape. It is the author's opinion, that snares can be success- 
fully adopted when wolves are known to enter corrals through 
openings, and in such cases the snares should be conveniently 
placed above the same path that the wolf is accustomed to fre- 
quent. 

An Iowa farmer informed the author that he used snares 
with great success. Seemingly he had a controversy with his 
neighbor, and claimed that his dogs were in the habit of digging 
holes under the fence, get into the enclosure, bite and run the 
sheep for hours, and of course, as a natural result, some of 
them died and others were more or less chewed up. A dispute 
arose and he told the neighbor that he would ascertain the 
trespasser in a short time, and if the dogs were caught in the 
enclosure or thereabouts he would hold their owner responsible 
for all the damage done heretofore, and, in case some other 
dogs or wolves were in the habit of getting into the enclosure, 
he would grant his neighbor a certain right of way over a strip 
of land, which the latter desired, and highly prized. This was 
agreed upon between the two farmers. The informant tore or 
knocked two boards from the fence and braided four small fish 




winter Furred 



BLACK WOLF SUO 



Montana 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 185 

lines into one good strong line and arranged same into a snare, 
placed the latter at the opening made by the boards that he 
previously knocked off. The end of the snare was attached to 
a rope and the latter to a cattle hoist, which was so arranged 
that if a certain stick was pulled out the wheel would turn and 
hoist the victim high in the air. The power was obtained by 
having another rope wound around the centre shaft in opposite 
direction, on which was tied a sack of stones weighing approx- 
imately one hundred pounds. The sack was raised twelve feet 
in the air and the hoist wheel was fastened in such a way 
that when a stick was removed the wheel would turn by the 
descending weight. An additional line from the snare to the 
stick was placed, thus if the animal was caught the stick would 
be pulled out and the weight descend while the victim would 
be rapidly hoisted into the air. 

The first night nothing came, at least, the snare was unmol- 
ested; but the second night Mr. Wolf came and was strangled to 
death; on the third night the neighbor's dog was caught in the 
same manner, to the admiration of both the farmer and the 
owner of the dog. They jointly agreed that neither was to receive 
any compensation. This method is certainly a very good one, 
both the wolf and the dog can be made to stretch hemp ; thus 
farmers can get rid of sheep-killing dogs as well as the devastating 
wolf. 

The rifle should not fail to achieve credit and assist the 
eradication of these animals as much as possible, but it is to be 
regretted that opportunity is seldom presented for an average 
hunter to obtain a satisfactory aim ; hence, killing wolves by 
the use of the rifle, much less the shot gun, is not extensive. 
We urge hunters to kill wolves in or out of season, and to loot 
the homes of the young whenever possible. 

The bounty question is too often taken for deliberation, and 
the sum too often drawn by men who should feel ashamed to 
ask the county or state to pay them for something that they 
should feel it's their duty to perform. The true hunter as well 
as the farmer should cease scrambling about bounty; the former 
will be rewarded by increase of other game, and the latter from 
loss of stock. All should unite and effect as near as possible the 
capture and eradication of the timber, brush and prairie wolf. 

Wolves can be lured to death by the legitimate and proper 
use of poison, but to be successful one should distribute the 
poison at such a time when food is scarce and the animal roams 
frantically around in search of food to satisfy its hunger. During 
the winter time when the snow is deep the wolf will overcome the 
usual fondness for fresh and wholesome meat, and will devour 



186 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. _^ 

suspicious looking bits of meat in which poison has been placed, 
and naturally the corpse will be found in close vicinity. 

Strychnine mixed with lard and inserted in small pieces of 
meat often tempts the animal and, to the surprise of the farmer 
as well as to the wolf, the poison will be prompt in action, and 
the victim found with upturned toes. 

Another method is to mix strychnine with fresh blood and 
dissolved lard. Run this mixture into little holes previously made 
in the frozen earth. Others make balls of this mixture which 
are thrown in conspicuous places. As a rule wolves will not 
eat or chew poisoned meat ; hence, small pieces are preferred, 
which the animal can swallow. Extreme hunger, however, on 
the part of the wolves, causes them to tackle a poisoned carcass, 
but seemingly, are extremely cautious, nevertheless some parts 
are devoured. To the detriment of the trapper or hunter, often 
insufficient poison is consumed by the wolf, and occasionally, 
the poison is improoerly injected, or too old. 

Don't give up hunting for the dead wolves should you find 
that some of the pieces of bait were consumed, neither feel 
downhearted if you find that the bait remains undisturbed for 
two or three weeks. The author has known baits to lie undis- 
turbed for a month regardless of the fact that wolf tracks about 
the bait were numerous. Generally after a severe storm or spell 
of cold weather, or a blizzard with a large quantity of snow, 
wolves go in search of food and look up the places where they 
have buried same heretofore, and consume the bait that they 
previously neglected to devour. At such times the wolves will 
devour the bait and naturally suffer tne penalty of death. The 
poison acts promptly and generally within ten minutes. The 
author has seen a wolf snatch the bait off sticks and shortly 
thereafter, much to his detriment, drag and twist himself in 
all shapes, suffering great agony and pain. Sometimes the pain 
is so extensive and prompt that they are unable to run away, 
other times the dead body of the wolf will be found a distance 
of a mile. The proper place to put such bait is on small hills, 
which this animal, as well as the fox, frequent, to enable them 
to view the surroundings. Therefore bait placed on some 
slight hill is preferable. In a prairie country it is an easy matter 
to see the carcass for a long distance. 

Some trappers fasten poisoned bait on sticks which are driven 
into the ground, but no more than eight or less than four baits 
should be used at one place. The chief trouble and failure of 
success is the use of old or insufficient poison. We advise 
hunters, trappers or farmers to procure fresh poison from rep- 
utable drug-stores. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Tra ppers Guide. 187 

It takes a large and swift dog to tussle with an average full- 
grown prairie wolf. Often more than one dog gets torn up 
before a wolf is finally captured. For one or two dogs to 
attempt to capture a large timber wolf is almost like sending 
them against a bear, mountain lion, or lynx. If a dog is for- 
tunate to come up to a large, full-grown timber wolf, and a 
fight ensues, the dog will soon be disengaged and only when two 
or three others arrive to the rescue do dogs have a show of 
killing their enemy, and even then it's only after the large and 
heavy dogs arrive that the wolf finds his position reversed. 

A Russian nobleman relates that in a chase four to six dogs 
to the value of 1,500 rubles, became engaged with a large native 
wolf. The latter killed three and were it not for the timely 
arrival of the horseman the wolf would have escaped almost 
unharmed. 

Wolves, foxes, as well as mink, skunk, and similar animals can 
be caught by using a live rooster or other domestic fowl, rabbit, 
etc., and by placing same within an enclosure made of wire 
netting. Ordinarily small mesh wire netting answers the purpose, 
and if set for large animals such as wolf, the strength of the 
netting can be increased by inserting thicker wire and fastening 
it above as well as below. A suitable top out of wire netting 
must also be made. 

Place the fowl or rabbit within the enclosure, provide it with 
sufficient food for the required number of days and secure the 
enclosure to the ground. Place your traps about the enclosure, 

A suitable trap for above named animals is also made by driv- 
ing stakes in a snake-like circle and placing the fowl or rabbit 
within a small enclosure at center part. Adjust a .proper sized 
snare at the opening and place one or two steel traps further 
therein. The wolf or fox may listen to the peculiar sound of the 
fowl for hours without attempting to go near, but as no other dis- 
turbances are discernable he becomes accustomed to the surround- 
ings, and will finallv venture for the prey, only to become nabbed, 
and cover them in the usual way with vegetation, ashes, etc. 

It is known that wolves are about as sly as the fox, and if not 
too hungry will shy at most anything that a trapper usually pre- 
pares for Mr. Wolf's reception. It is related by an experienced 
Massachusetts trapper and traveler that if one is fortunate to ob- 
tain from a female dog the fluid or matrix that predominates dur- 
ing the period of coition, and can use this liquid before it becomes 
too old and odorless, he is sure of attracting Mr. Wolf from long 
distances and lead him to the traps, deadfalls, or even the so- 
called bait set gun. 

It is known that wolves have been successfully crossed with 



188 Anderscli Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

dogs, and as they belong to the same family it is only natural 
that the male wolf would be attracted by the liquid from the fe- 
male dog when in heat. 

Mr, Snyder, a well known sportsman, relates that he captured 
two young wolves, raised them up, and successfully hunted wild 
wolves with their assistance. He was fortunate to view a fierce 
fight between his dog Snapmouth and a large wild brush wolf. 
The fight was much fiercer than that of two bull-dogs or of any 
other fight that he had seen, but as his wolf-dog was well nour- 
ished and protected by a steel collar around the neck, he had the 
advantage, notwithstanding his enemy outweighed Snapmouth. 
After a fierce fight of about one-half an hour or so the wild brute 
gave way and Snapmouth was the victor. On examination the 
wolf was badly torn and chewed up, especially around the neck. 
The same writer also relates that he crossed and bred his brindle 
dog Nero (half bull and English mastiff) to his female wolf very 
successfully. 

Bed traps, that is a number of traps set in a line parallel with 
the path or trail are successfully used by western trappers where 
the coyote or wolf abounds. First select a suitable location upon 
some paths, or some other place where digging is easy. Keep 
away from sod as much as possible. 

Take four No. 3, No. 4 or No. 43^ traps, first having prepared 
a suitable stake and place said stake through the rings of the 
traps and drive into the ground so that the upper part is about 
two inches below the surface. Now dig out a bed for each trap 
about two feet away from stake. Place dirt on canvas or sack. 
Set so that each trap will be about one-half inch below the level 
of the surrounding ground when covered with earth. Place 
enough wool underneath pan to keep dirt out, also to prevent 
birds or other small animals from springing. Leave surroundings 
in natural condition. 

Wolves can be killed by various home-made traps, deadfalls, 
bear traps or in pitfalls and dugouts, the latter covered up with 
fresh grass, etc. If interested, see description of these traps on 
other pages of this book. 




Andersch Bros.' Hunters a nd Trappers Guide. 189 

HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP THE BEAR. 

The bear is a coward and will not molest man, even if dis- 
turbed, many times he will seek to escape the intruder and only 
in rare instances will he turn upon man without due provocation. 
To throw a stone at him, whether the stone falls short or not, is 
sometimes sufficient for Bruin to turn about, other times if shot 
and wounded he will scamper away, perhaps the latter occurs sel- 
dom, as he is known to go for the hunter, who must be prepared 
for his reception. 

One who cannot await his time for the bear to approach with- 
in twenty-five yards has no business to go on a bear hunt. Only 
those shots that hit count ; perhaps the statement made by Presi- 
dent Roosevelt when speaking of our navy "In time of war and 
in battle only those shots that hit, and hit well, count" is also true 
when on a bear hunt. 

"One of the best hunters that I ever saw was scarcely five 
feet tall, weighed about one hundred and fifteen pounds, and a 
tailor by trade," says Mr. Huntington, an experienced hunter 
and trapper, formerly a western guide, and at one time connec- 
ted with the Alaska Commercial Company. "This little fellow 
with one or two guides would go for weeks hunting in the most 
lonesome forests. At one time we struck a family of grizzlies, 
and do you suppose he would give me a shot at them? No sir! 
We followed them for some time and when within shot he bade 
me stay behind while he went forward. When within thirty to 
forty yards he darted behind a tree, rested his rifle on the side of 
the tree, took careful aim, and fired. The first shot hit this 
monster bear high on the head and glanced off ; the bear turned in 
a circle, 'like if demented, stopped for a moment, and made for 
the little fellow who had stepped aside the tree. The bear had 
gone about five yards when this tailor took aim but reserved his 
fire until the bear raised himself on his hind legs. A sharp 
report, a fall, and Mr. Bruin was done for. I rapidly ran to the 
scene and was requested not to approach the dead bear until our 
rifles were first in complete order and allowing sufficient time for 
the bear to pass through his death struggles. While I skinned 
the monster and prepared to camp for the night in the vicinity, 
the tailor went after the female bear but not being able to locate 
her returned to camp. The next morning, much to our surprise 
we corralled the mother and two yearlings which were promptly 
dispatched." 

On one occasion two Wyoming cowboys chased a black ma- 
tured bear from his usual abode out into the open where he was 
roped about the neck, each man keeping the rope or lasso stretched 




(1) Brown Bear Skin (2) 

(4) Pile of Beaver Skins 



Grizzly Bear Skin (3) Black Bear Skin 

(5) File of Marten Skins 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 191 

and bruin in the middle away from any possible harm to the 
horses or riders. In this manner and position he was partly pulled, 
dragged and run into town where the folks viewed the prisoner 
with unusual admiration. Towards evening a mock jury con- 
demned the prisoner "to be shot in the head until dead." 

Some years ago the government sent a special party to cap- 
ture alive some of the monster grizzlies still found in the Rocky 
Mountain regions in Canada. This party was successful in cap- 
turing two large specimens weighing over two thousand pounds 
each. From their report it would seem that the grizzlies were 
captured in pitfalls into which cages were lowered, and the ani- 
mals being partly starved were driven into the cages and then 
hoisted and placed aboard a ship, and brought to the United States 
at an expense of about $10,000.00. Of course, no trapper or 
hunter would care to spend such a sum fitting out an expedition. 

Deadfalls, log nouse traps, snares, pitfalls, set guns and New- 
house steel traps are commonly used for capturing these monsters. 
The large No. 6 Newhouse steel trap is guaranteed by the manu- 
facturers to be of sufficient strength to hold a two thousand five 
hundred pound grizzly or polar bear. If steel traps are used the 
clog must be twentv-five to fifty pounds for an ordinary bear, 
and seventy-five to ore hundred pounds for the grizzly or polar 
bear. These large traps should be set with clamps, and no one man 
should attempt to set these powerful devices without assistance. 
For bait large chunks of meat or carcasses of small animals are 
commonly used. These should be fastened. Honey bait pre- 
pared in various ways bring excellent results. How to make this 
bait is noted elsewhere in this book. 

If you have reason to know that Mr. Bruin is in a certain lo- 
cality and you possess a large trap and are desirous of getting the 
skin and meat — the latter being very delicious and highly prized 
during the winter months, not only by trappers and woodsmen 
but also city people (especially in large cities where steaks often 
retail from twenty-five to thirty-five cents per pound), you should 
first select a proper place to set the trap. A good location is next 
to a fallen log. The latter will answer for one part of the "V." 
Drive a sufficient number of 3-inch thick stakes, twelve to twenty 
inches into the ground ; the stakes should protrude about three 
feet above the ground more or less as the surroundings warrant 
or require. Have stakes close together. The row of stakes 
should be about five feet long and the mouth of the "V" should 
be three feet wide. When this is done excavate immediately 
within the mouth of the "V" shaped enclosure — in which excava- 
tion place the trap. Arrange the trap when covered with leaves 
and dirt so as to be even with the surrounding ground. Be sure 



192 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



and place wool or similar materials underneath the pan to prevent 
dirt from getting under or the trap being sprung by small ani- 
mals. After this is completed place bait in the narrowest part of 
the "V" enclosure. Chain should be attached to a clog, never to 
a stake or other stationary object. 




WHAT DO YOU THINK OF THAT? From a Photograph 

An experienced hunter from the "Great Black Forest" in 
Europe relates that he caught a monstrous bear in an American 
steel trap set at the widest part of a ''V" enclosure, and used a 
small squealing pig as a bait ; the latter was fastened in the nar- 
rowest part of the V-shaped pen. The trap, (supposed to have 
been a Newhouse No. 6 ) was set in an excavation between the 
widest part of the enclosure and covered with earth, leaves, etc. 
The springs of the trap nearly touched the respective opposite 
stakes of the pen. 




Andersch Br os.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 193 

HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP THE RACCOON. 

The animal is caught in traps of various kinds and often 
hunted by dogs and chased from tree to tree, and out of hollow 
logs or trees. 

Steel traps should be set at the entrance of the animal's abode 
or in their paths. Snares and deadfalls can also be advantage- 
ously used. The bait can be vegetables or meat such as chicken, 
rabbits, and fish, which should be roasted in order to extend an 
inviting smell and give the animal an appetizing relish. 

Favorable results are obtained in the late fall and early spring 
or before the water is frozen, by setting a steel trap in shallow 
water, ten to fifteen inches from the shore, with some shining 
object placed upon the pan, or the latter polished so that when the 
sun shines, its brightness is reflected to the observing coon when 
passing. The raccoon, in observing the shining object, becomes 
curious and will examine it. He will slowly step into the water, 
sniflf and smell about, place his paw on the trap and if he does 
not succeed in removing the object, will go a little further into the 
water, the nearer he goes the more weight will be placed upon hid 
foot, thus springing the trap and capturing the coon. 

At other times the trap is set the same distance away from the 
shore on some especially prepared island. The bait which is put 
on a stick is stuck into the ground six to twelve inches beyond 
the island. The coon will smell about upon discovering the bait, 
jump upon the covered trap and become a victim. The trap thus 
set should be staked and can also be attached to a spring pole ; 
a sliding pole may answer the purpose, but trappers as a rule dis- 
like the idea of skinning a drowned coon. 

A good idea is to put upon the stick a shining tin can es- 
pecially polished for Mr. Coon, which will also attract him. Other 
times a bright, shining tin can in the water will cause the coon 
to leave the shore, wade to the can and with his paw, slowly roll 
it towards the shore or abandon it if it rolls into too deep water. A 
steeUtrap set between the shore and the curious object will do the 
trick ; no bait necessary. 

Wire traps, as well as the new tree trap, have been success- 
fully used in trapping the raccoon. The former is set at the en- 
trance of some hole or cave, and the latter is securely fastened on 
some sloping tree. Both traps are very humane, killing or chok- 
ing the animal in the space of a few moments. 

It is great sport to hunt the raccoon with the aid of dogs and 
to chase him out of hollow logs and see the animal dart out of 
same, get on a tree, etc., only to be brought down with the trusty 
rifle or be captured by the dogs themselves. 



194 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Hunting this animal by moonlight is great sport. Usually 
two or three hunters, one with a rifle, the other with shotgun and 
the third with an ax, accompanied by two good dogs constitute the 
outfit and party. The dogs will usually tree the coon or discover 
him in a hollow log; then the fun begins. Of course the coon 
won't come down nor will he get out. If on a tree a fire is usually 
built so that the smoke reaches his nostrils when he will jump 
down and a fight with the dogs results. Many times the coon es- 




Missouri RACCOON From a Photograph 

capes only to be treed again, other times he is killed by the dogs or 
hunters. A long pole is used to poke him out of a hollow log; 
other times the log is cut down or into pieces. 

If the night is dark and your dogs have treed a coon an^ you 
are unable to see the animal, stand with your back against the 
moon and face tree, or build a fire close to the tree and stand 
off a ways and the fire will no doubt illuminate the surroundings 
sufficiently so when standing at a distance overlooking the fire 
towards tree you will see the coon crouched on some limb or be- 
tween some fork or crotch. Take good aim, fire, and down he 
will fall. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Chiide. 195 

TRAPPING THE SKUNX. 

This animal belongs to the weasel family, and is nocturnal in 
its habits, but unlike other fur-bearing animals of the weasel fam- 
ily, lacks alertness. It is unable to climb trees, is exceedingly 
slow in locomotion as compared with other animals, and naturally 
falls an easy prey to the average hunter or trapper. 

The only drawback and reason why this animal was not exten- 
sively hunted or trapped and the skin marketed twenty or thirty 
years ago, was the danger of being sprayed with their peculiar 
essence, which is its only weapon and upon that the animal relies 
to distract the hunter, trapper or poacher and, naturally, the 
strong odor becomes speedily effective and answers the purpose 
only too well. 

The fur is fine and eagerly sought after, especially the black 
furred skins, which bring high prices. As many as 500,000 
skunk skins are marketed in a year, and if the demand is good, 
the skins bring 75 cents to $3.00 each, depending on size and qua- 
lity of fur. 

The skins are generally divided into four or five distinct 
grades, and each grade is then assorted accordingly to quality and 
size. The black, short or half-striped, narrow or long striped, 
broad striped and white, are the common grades, but the skins 
vary considerably in value. The fur of the former is all black, 
the second, or half-striped are such skins as have two short, white 
stripes descending from the nose over the head and reach to 
about the center of body, while the stripes on the third class ex- 
tend clear along the body and run well into the tail. The broad 
striped, or fourth order, as above enumerated, is similar to the 
third order, excepting the white stripes are broader, thus lessening 
the value of the skin considerably, as the white part is not used 
by manufacturers. The fifth order, or white skunks, have little 
value, as the back, in fact, nearly all portions of the skin is covered 
with white fur, and such skins are only used after the fur is dyed, 
for cheap garments or trimmings. 

Skunks should not be killed for the pelt out of season, but 
this is true of all animals, where the furred skin has a market val- 
ue. The open season for Minnesota, Dakotas, Iowa, Wisconsin, 
Montana and northern sections, is from November ist to Feb- 
ruary 15th, varying somewhat upon the weather. South or mid- 
dle states the season opens somewhat earlier, and naturally closes 
on approach of warm weather. The fur of the skunk is the first 
of all fur-bearing animals to become prime, and is also first to 
suffer the loss of its lustre and primeness. 

There are many ways and methods in common use for cap- 




All Sections 
North America 



SKUNK SKINS 



Open Skins 
Improperly Handled 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 19? 

turing and killing this animal, but probably the best is the use 
of steel traps, though a long stick is equally as good, providing 
the one who holds it comprehends his business and uses same ad- 
vantageously. The author has known two lads to kill and skin 
forty skunks in a day. Of course, great care must be exercised 
to kill the animal without receiving a discharge of the perfume. 
A six to eight foot long stick, one and a half to two inches in 
diameter is the proper weapon and instrument to use in killing 
skunks. A smart blow on the back about, one to two inches be- 
yond the tail will readily fell the animal. This blow will paralyze 
and benumb the muscles and nerves employed by the animal to 
distribute its obnoxious fluid. An additional blow is necessary, 
and the latter should be given on top of head. 

Steel traps are used with good effect. They should be set just 
before the hole and be covered with loose bits of dirt, leaves or 
other vegetation. Some prefer to use bait, the latter can be a 
beef head, a chicken, or, in fact, any chunk of old meat or carcass. 
Drag same in various ways and drop in a conspicuous place or in 
center of a nest of traps. The trap should be attached to a clog, 
or loose bushes, never attach two traps to the same article. 
Skunks often spring traps set for mink, wolf and other animals, 
but seldom devour or even touch a victim should they come upon 
same while making their nocturnal visits. 

The usual bait for skunk is birds, bits of meat, pieces of 
chicken and rabbit, whether old or fresh. A good method and 
trap is to bury a large dry goods box ; see that the top is even with 
the surface of the earth, place light brushes, leaves, hay or straw 
across the opening, upon which sprinkle a little loose earth. Some 
prefer to make an artificial opening in top of box after same is 
buried, into which the skunk will descend, rather fall in, but can- 
not get out. Some strong smelling bait should be placed in the 
box, which is to attract the animal from a distance. As many 
as eight skunks have been caught during one night by the use of 
this style of box trap. 

Another method is the so-called barrel trap. A sugar, vine- 
gar or whiskey barrel will answer. Remove the head and securely 
fasten the bait on inside bottom of barrel. Place the barrel in a 
slanting position, open part toward the earth, and arrange by 
balancing the barrel in such a way that when the skunk enters 
by crawling up in barrel, being attracted there by the bait, the 
barrel with the skunk will tip over and Mr. Skunk fall on his nose 
inside of the barrel and be a captive. This is a good and cheap 
trap and the victim cannot get out. though only one animal can 
be caught at one time. Some trappers dig the skunk out, others 
dig until they reach the cavity in which they usually have their 




(1) Black 

(2) White 



(3) Clear White 
SKUNK SKINS 
All Tanned 



(4) Single Striped 
(5) Star 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 199 

nests and are found huddled up together in a bunch. If found 
in such a position it is an easy matter to suffocate them, thus obHt- 
erating all possible chances of the animals distributing their ob- 
noxious perfume. All that is necessary after one sees the ani- 
mals is to cover them up with soft dirt, which should be lightly 
tamped every two inches of filling and continued until about fif- 
teen to eighteen inches is securely tamped. In about fifteen to 
twenty minutes the trapper can uncover the den by removing the 
earth, and he will find the animals suffocated. 

It is unnecessary, but we recommend for the trapper, (new be- 
ginners) or hunters, to remove the perfume containers (glands) 
before skinning, as one is likely to cut into the bags and distri- 
bute the perfume, but if removed all danger of coming in con- 
tact with the liquid weapon is of the past. 

Skunks, when located in holes, can be smoked out or suffo- 
cated, either with common smoke or vapors arising from burning 
sulphur. To locate the distance of digging, insert a long switch 
or telegraph wire into the hole. The author has personally seen 
trappers dig down for a short distance and then reach after the 
animals with their hands, and sure enough they succeed in bring- 
in the animals, one by one, from their den. Strange as it seems 
no perfume was discharged. This is probably due to the fact 
that the other trapper assisted by knocking them senseless imme- 
diately after their heads appeared through the hole. A piece of 
^-inch round iron, about twelve inches in length, was used. 
Trappers relate and claim that it is a positive fact that the skunk 
will refrain from biting or discharging their perfume while in 
their holes. 

Deidfalls, figure four and other home-made traps can be em- 
ployed, though the animal must be skinned promptly, and often 
the fur becomes damaged from the instrument itself or by long de- 
lay and exposure to the weather. There are many other methods 
and ways to capture and kill this animal, but by the foregoing 
anyone contemplating to trap or hunt will have the essential 
knowledge. 

The rifle can be used whenever possible, but the use of the 
shotgun is detrimental to the skin, and its use should be prevented 
when the question of its fur is taken into consideration. The 
animal should not be entirely eradicated from any particular lo- 
cality, as the skunk is more beneficial than harmful to the farms, 
and again, the killing of skunks out of season is entirely absurd 
and uncalled for, the animal being harmless. The meat while not 
generally consumed, can be used, though when fried, it is dry 
and tough, resembling bull meat in that respect. The fat is used 
for medicinal purposes, though of recent years, substitutes are 




Various Sizes CIVET CAT SKINS Middle West 



Andersch Bros.' H unters and Trappers Guide. 201 

placed before the public and the demand consequently somewhat 
lessened. 

The druggist who formerly handled refined skunk oil, will 
now satisfy the purchaser with adulterants or cheap imitations. 
Skunk oil is highly recommended for sore throat, croup, etc. 

TRAPPING THE CIVET CAT. 

The civet cat, like the skunk, is an easy animal to trap. The 
same methods are employed in trapping the civet cat as are used 
for skunk. Use same size traps, if anything, smaller, and set same 
as for skunk. Traps are set at openings of dens ; at other times 
make artificial enclosure for the trap, so as to cover the bait from 
the weather. Wire traps are also very good. In fact, I prefer the 
wire trap to the steel trap every time when the former can be 
set in front of some abode. 

In skinning one must be careful not to cut the scent bags. 
One would hardly believe that two civet cats could be caught in 
the same trap, but such has been the case. Presumably both 
came across the bait at the same time and in their eagerness to 
take hold, stepped on the pan. As far as bait is concerned any 
old piece of meat will do. No bait is necessary when traps are set 
in front of their dens or over their holes. 

TRAPPING THE OPOSSUM. 

The opossum is an easy animal to trap, being of a lazy dispo- 
sition and does not suspect danger as does the mink, fox or wolf, 
in this respect he resembles the skunk very much. Almost the 
identical methods used in the capture of the skunk can be applied 
to the opossum. 

The best manner to trap them is with steel traps, No. i. No. 
ij^, not larger than No. 2. He can also be taken with deadfalls, 
box traps, snares and by the use of poison. In seeking to capture 
the opossum one need only study his habits, ascertain his where- 
abouts and then by placing bait along his path which usually is 
beside fences, he is easily taken. 

It will be remembered that the opossum feigns death and the 
trapper should make sure of his victim ; otherwise he may trouble 
himself carrying the supposed dead opossum home, only to find 
that "the dead arise" and leave in quick order. A smart rap or 
blow on the forehead is sufficient. Many instances have been 
reported to us where the opossum, after being released from the 
trap, he having feigned death, scampered away. 

Many prefer to smoke the opossum out if located in some 




Opossum Skin 



Badger Skin 



Opossiim Skin 



Andersch Bros.' Hunte rs and Trappers Guide. 203 

den or in a hollow tree. Take cotton waste, rags, or if in a hol- 
low tree make a fire below, and you will soon have him on the 
limb, if such is possible for the animal to reach. 

For bait use any old piece of meat as he is not very fastidious 
and cares little whether it is fresh or putrid. The skin should be 
handled similar to that of the skunk, never cut open on the belly 
but leave it cased ; preferably to have the flesh side out. The 
tail should be severed from the body and all fat removed from 
the skin. The skin is very tender and the party in charge must 
exercise due judgment in skinning, scraping and stretching, es- 
pecially if in the latter process one-piece stretchers are used. We 
recommend the three-piece stretchers every time. The skin of 
the opossum has no value out of season and low, thrashy skins 
should not be marketed. 

TRAPPING THE BADGER. 

There are no particular secrets or methods in trapping this 
animal. The steel trap is invariably used (No. 2 and No. 3 traps 
recommended), and a great many badgers, owing to their size 
and slow locomotion, are dispatched by the use of the rifle in the 
hands of hunters and trappers. 

Snares cannot , be used effectively, though if attached to a 
spring pole of sufficient strength to hoist the animal off the 
ground, a strong line or wire may be arranged for his capture. 

Deadfalls and other home-made appliances can be used, but 
the animal must be immediately killed. It would be a foolish 
hunter to use box trap or pitfall for a badger, as in the course 
of no time the animal will free himself. 

Steel traps should be placed slightly within the abode or den 
and if the latter cannot be found, the traps can be placed in his 
paths. As the badger has many holes it is quite necessary that 
all excepting one be closed up, within which a No. 2 or No. 3 
trap should be set. Bait is unnecessary though if desired, can be 
used. 

There is probably no animal that is as easily captured as the 
badger, since he can be approached without danger, and any one 
having any courage at all, can knock him on the head with a five 
or six foot stick. Quite often he is dug out the same as skunk, 
but this a tedious job, especially during the winter. Digging 
them out is not recommended, as badgers are likely to have many 
passages and quite often the skins are poorly furred, due to their 
hibernating habit. The skins of the badger are only good dur- 
ing the winter time and only from those that have exposed them- 
selves to the severe weather a good share of the time. 




LYNX SKINS 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 205 

TRAPPING THE LYNX. 

The lynx, like the mountain lion, can be caught in traps, but 
whenever opportunity presents he should be killed with the rifle. 
Steel traps and deadfalls are responsible for most deaths, and it 
is to be regretted that the animal is not as easy to trap as one 
mav imagine. 

He is not numerous in any parts of the United States, but 
formerly was found quite plentiful in the western mountainous 
states and in the timbered sections from Minnesota down along 
the Canadian border as far south as the Alleghany mountains 
and northward into Canada. As aforesaid, deadfalls and steel 
traps are chiefly used in killing this carnivorous cat. When using 
steel traps nothing smaller than No. 2)2 will securely hold the 
Canadian lynx, but instances are recorded where this animal 
sprung a No. i trap and the jaw held the brute by one of his toes 
until the hunter released him from his misery. The Newhouse 
traps are much preferred over any other steel traps — No. 3 or 3I/2 
probably best adapted. The former is a double spring trap, the 
other a single spring with four prongs. Either of them will hold 
Mr. Lynx. By all means fasten the chain securely to some spring 
pole and if this cannot be done to some limb which he is able to 
drag a short distance. 

As the lynx is found principally in dense forests, it is quite nat- 
ural that the traps must be set in some place that the animal fre- 
quent ; quite often in a trail or open place ; if the latter, choose a 
good-sized tree against which make an artificial abode. The lynx 
is known to follow lines of marten traps, and follow the trap- 
per from one place to another, anticipating a carcass, bait, etc., 
and occasionally steals the bait placed by the trapper for mink 
and marten. The traps should be covered in the usual way. 
Steel traps can also be set underneath the snow, but a sufficient 
quantity of wool, leaves or other material must be placed beneath 
the pan. He has also been caught in traps set for wolves and 
foxes. Is known to favor the smell of castoreum and many a 
trapper lures the lynx to his death by the use of this decoy. His 
presence is made known to the trapper during the night-time 
by the peculiar yell that he gives from time to time. 

The deadfall has been successfully used probably for at least 
100 years. In fact, the early Canadian trapper confined himself 
almost exclusively to this variety of trap. These were set in con- 
spicuous places and the bait so arranged that the lynx, in touch- 
ing the trigger, caused the upper log to fall upon his head, killing 
him instantly. The snare can be advantageously used if the paths 
of the animal lead through brush. The ends of the wire or line 
should be fastened to some spring pole. One shrewd trapper 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappe rs Ouide. 207 

was accustomed to set his traps in his own path, especially when 
the ground was covered with snow. He took pains that the path 
should be fairly smooth and placed a small, dry piece of a limb 
between the traps over which the animal was expected to step, 
and in so doing step upon the pan and spring the trap, thus be- 
coming a victim. The chain was invariably attached to some limb, 
or permanently to some near-by brush. He managed to trap 
many lynx in this way. At other times he made an artificial 
abode against a tree and set his trap at the entrance. To prevent 
rabbits, squirrels and similar animals from springing these traps, 
it is advisable to place some dry brush in front of the opening over 
which the the small animals will hardly climb ; the lynx, on the 
other hand, will shove this aside : so will the wolverene and fisher. 
A full-grown Canadian lynx is equal to two or three average 
dogs and in a fight, should any of the latter escape, they are 
usually so badly wounded that they die thereafter ; other times are 
killed by the owner to stop their painful sufferings. The lynx, on 
the other hand, often escapes. 

HOW TO HUNT AND TRAP THE WILD CAT. 

This animal, like the lynx, can be caught in traps but is gen- 
erally tracked by dogs and is brought to bay with the rifle. Traps 
can be set about the shores of rivers and lakes, or in paths. If 
a place is found where the cat has lately devoured its victim and 
lett a few remnants, one or two traps should be set about the lo- 
cation. Traps should be covered up in the usual manner. Any 
of the baits used for lynx will answer the purpose. Bait placed 
within hollow logs and the traps concealed in the usual manner 
will often result in his capture. One or two dogs are seldom 
equal to a cat and generally are put into misery and the cat es- 
capes. Many traps set for coon or mink are sprung by the wild 
cat and, if strong enough, detain the animal. 

Quite often steel traps are set on each side of a log, or edges 
thereof over or along which the animal is known to travel. If 
a good, strong trap is placed at the entrance of a V or U shaped 
enclosure and a piece of rabbit is thrown further into the den, 
the result quite often is favorable to the trapper. If one is suc- 
cessful in locating their habitual paths, traps should be set there- 
on. Exercise great care in leaving the surroundings natural and 
always cover traps so that nothing of the human work is visible. 

Another good place to set traps is where the animal has pre- 
viously enjoyed a former meal, and especially if some leavings re- 
main. Place three or four traps in the immediate vicinity. The 
cat will return to this place the same day, or in a few days, and 
in so doing is very likely to spring ^ trap. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 209 

HOW TO HUNT THE JAGUAR, MOUNTAIN LION AND 
COUGAR. 

Either of the above brutes can be captured with steel traps, 
but the scarcity, peculiar habits and great strength, are obstacles 
to the ordinary trapper, who like the hunter, prefers the trusty 
rifle in going against this monster cat. Should one be fortunate 
to locate a place where one of these brutes recently enjoyed a 
meal and some remnants remain, at such a place, set two or 
three No. 4>2, No. 50 or No. 150 Newhouse Steel Traps. The 
traps should be buried and covered up with loose earth, leaves, 
rotten wood, etc., suitable to the surroundings. A clog or drag 
must be attached to either of the latter traps, which must also 
be buried. Traps set in front of their dens or in paths, brings 
result. Snares can also be arranged, but one should take care 
not to under estimate the strength of these ferocious beasts. 
Dead -falls have been and are still used in remote timber sec- 
tions, not only in Canada and Alaska, but also in the Western 
States. 

A certain Mr. Saunders, formerly of the Black Hills in 
Dakota, where he gained much experience in mining and some 
in hunting and trapping, relates that he killed many a Mountain 
Lion with a Savage rifle, and captured both the male and female 
brutes in steel traps. A few years ago he moved to the Klon- 
dike and from there sent us many skins. He was quite suc- 
cessful in capturing this brute in dead -falls, but most of the skins 
received from him indicated that the brutes were killed with the 
rifle. 

A Wyoming trapper relates that he succeeded in chasing one 
of these monsters into a cave, and not wishing to wait until the 
brute came out, he partly closed the opening, arranged a snare 
out of a galvanized wash line and securely fastened the other 
end to a spring pole. The next morning he visited the den and 
found the Lion in the snare, parth' off the ground, but very 
much alive. A bullet in the chest sent the brute to eternity. 

Many difficulties are encountered in bringing this brute to 
bay. Rarely is he seen by the hunter, for he manages to see the 
hunter and makes good his escape before he himself is seen. 
Dogs are used to track and locate him, and at times sett -guns 
are conveniently placed so as to kill the monster on his next 
passage. 

The skins have no great value and are chiefly used for orna- 
mental purposes. If one is fortunate to kill or capture this 
brute and desires the animal mounted, he should preserve the leg 
bones and be very careful in skinning, especially about the eyes, 
ears, nose and lips; paws, of course, should be left attached. 



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BALING RAW FURS 

For Export 



Scene in Fur Room 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 211 

TRAPPING THE MTJSKRAT. 

The miiskrat is found in marshes, lakes and rivers, and their 
abode is principally in dome-shaped houses made by them during 
the fall months. At times, and in certain sections, the muskrat 
makes his abode in banks, other times in hollow trees, but always 
if not in the water, in close proximity thereto. 

The muskrat is captured in many ways and it does not require 
long experience to enable one to capture them. At the same 
time an experienced trapper will be much more successful than one 
who has had no previous experience and who is unacquainted with 
the many methods, kind of traps, and other arrangements in use 
by the more experienced trapper. Where one trapper may get 
ten or fifteen rats, the other may get twenty-five or more in the 
same space of time, and probably with less exertion. 

The muskrat is chiefly caught in steel traps, although many are 
shot, suffocated, speared, drowned, killed in deadfalls, wire traps, 
snares and other home-made appliances ; but probably two-thirds 
of the muskrats captured whose skins are marketed, were caught 
in steel traps. 

The use of a spear for capturing muskrats is slowly dying out, 
as the pelts become more or less dannged. and as a rule fur 
dealers class them as damaged, although if the skins are not badly 
pierced and only about the head or neck, they will generally pass 
as No. I, unless otherwise damaged or unprime. Some use regu- 
hr fish spears, others single prong spears with the usual project- 
ing hooks. These spears can be made by any village blacksmith 
or can be purchased at hardware stores. The handle with the 
spear is from eight to twelve feet long. 

Many thousands of muskrats are annually killed by the rifle, 
in and out of season, that are never skinned. Have known trap- 
pers to give up steel traps and entirely depend upon their small 
22 calibre rifle. The skin is not damaged to any great extent, es- 
pecially if the bullet should strike the head or neck. Such skins 
are much preferred over those that are speared, and no great, if 
nny, distinction is made between skins killed by such a small cal- 
ibre rifle and those that are trapped. It is to be regretted that 
many trappers, especiallv the inexperienced ones, resort to killing 
the muskrat with birdshot or shells intended for fowls. The 
skins, showing so many holes, are always rejected and bring a 
very small price, consequently the use of the shot gun is detri- 
mental to the hunter's interest, and we recommend trappers to 
refrain from killing this, or any other fur bearing animal, with 
the shot gun. 

A great many muskrats are annually captured bv robbing the 



212 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

animal of its breath. The operation is simple, and to many amus- 
ing. In this operation the trapper takes a stick, axe or hatchet 
and walks out upon the ice to their houses, and strikes a sharp 
blow upon the house. If the house is inhabited he will imme- 
diately see the muskrat depart. By following one of them, say 
a distance of thirty to forty feet, he will see the animal come 
next to the ice, place his nose against it, expel his breath which 
immediately forms into bubbles, and after a few moments begins 
to inhale the purified air. If the trapper intends to rob the ani- 
mal of his breath, all that is necessary is to disturb him before he 
inhales the air that is contained in the bubbles. On being dis- 
turbed the muskrat swims a distance of ten to thirty feet and en- 
deavors to repeat the operation. It must again be disturbed, and 
if successful, the muskrat will be unable to swim much farther 
and for lack of air, will shortly drown. The proper time to drive 
them away from their breath is when the air is expelled from their 
lungs. The trapper will know this by the many bubbles next to 
the jce. He must immediately drive him away, folloyv his course 
and repeat the operation. Having succeeded in separating the 
muskrat from his breath, the drovned body will lie next to the 
ice, when the trapper takes his hatchet or axe, chops a hole and 
takes the body out. In about ten minutes or so the operation can 
be repeated, as by this time many of the other muskrats have re- 
turned to their house : if not, other houses should be looked up. 

Deadfalls have been used, but as the value of the skin is so 
small, it hardly pays a trapper to resort to this method, as they 
cannot be moved from one place to another advantageously and 
then again the labor and time expended is too great for the pos- 
sible remuneration. These are more adapted to places where the 
muskrat makes his home in banks rather than in houses out in 
the marshes or lakes. 

What is true of the deadfall is also true of the snare. They 
do not seem to pay, since steel traps are too popular and reason- 
ably cheap. Furthermore snares cannot be successfully arranged 
due to the habits, especially at times when the skin is prime. 

As heretofore stated, two-thirds of the skins marketed, comes 
from animals captured in steel traps. Steel traps are set in nu- 
merous ways, and especially can good results be obtained in the 
spring months immediately after the ice becomes melted. No. i 
and No. lYz steel traps are set below the ice in front of the open- 
ings into their houses, or what is still better on their paths leading 
up the bank. Some trappers prefer to set steel traps in and about 
their usual feeding grounds, others at a point where the 
animal passes from the shore into deep water. If a hole is made 
in the dome-shaped house and a trap is set, either upon the shelf 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 213 

or next to the hole, through which they pass into and from deep 
water, one is quite assured of having it sprung by a muskrat and 
once in a while by a mink. The hole made into the house must 
be closed to prevent the water from becoming frozen, which 
would make the house uninhabitable. 

Many trappers prefer to set a line of traps upon some plank or 
railroad tie, which is later shoved out into the lake near muskrat 
houses. The chains are fastened to the log or plank, and when the 
muskrat springs a trap he immediately jumps into the water and 
drowns. (See illustration). At times traps are lowered into the 
water and set in their paths. Such traps must be covered and the 
chains fastened either to a stake or to a wire. It is of utmost im- 
portance that all traps set in or about the water should be so fas- 
tened or arranged that the animal will jump into deep water and 
drown, thus preventing the gnawing or twisting off of his leg 
and thus escaping. 

Bait is unnecessary in most sets, excepting if traps are set 
away from their paths or feeding grounds, in which case carrots, 
parsnips, or a piece of their own meat may be used. Decoy is 
likewise unnecessary, but if its use should facilitate matters, sug- 
gest that a few drops of musk from the female muskrat be 
sprinkled about the trap ; this musk can be procured by any trap- 
per. All that is necessary is to capture the female muskrat and 
squeeze the contents of the bag that is near the vagina, into a 
bottle. Bait should be fastened to a stick and placed 6 to lo in- 
ches above the trap. As elsewhere stated, arrange the setting 
so that the animal cannot regain the surface, or obtain air, and 
without air it must drown. 

Barrel and box traps are used by many trappers with great 
success. Sink a water-tight barrel so that two or three inches 
protrude above the level, and arrange a top or cover to swing on 
two pegs. Weight it in such a way that when the muskrat crawls 
or jumps upon the cover, he will be dumped into the barrel. The 
barrel should be weighted down in its place with stones and be 
filled about half full of water. The muskrat not being able to get 
out, will drown very shortly. (See illustration). Bait should be 
used. This is fastened on the cover. Carrots, flesh, apples, etc., 
will answer the purpose. 

The muskrat is also captured in boxes or troughs similarly 
arranged as the barrel trap, excepting that they may be floated 
from one place to another. At other times platforms are sunk 
beneath the ice or water level, upon which traps are arranged. 
The platform is held secure by being fastened to some scantling 
or pole driven into the ground. At other times small 
platforms are nailed to a scantling or stake, upon which a 



214 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



steel trap is set. Then the entire stake is driven into the 
ground. Bait is placed five to six inches above the platform 
and when the animal tries to get at the bait quite natu- 
rally steps upon the platform, thus springing the trap and be- 
comes a victim. A double platform can be arranged, but it is not 
advisable to place more than two traps to any stake. Such stakes 
should be driven at or near the muskrat house, and if possible in 
the path. 

Elsewhere in this book will be found many illustrations suit- 
able for trapping muskrats ; one interested should read the dif- 
ferent methods successfully used by trappers. 




WELL HANDLED BED FOX SKINS 



Courtesy of the National 



Sportsman, Boston, Mass. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and T rappers Guide. 215 

TRAPPING THE BEAVER. 

It was common for fur dealers to receive hundreds and thou- 
sands of beaver skins annually ten or more years ago, but of re- 
cent years the receipts are light, due to the rapid, decrease of the 
beaver in the states. Nothwithstanding the rigid laws and their 
prompt enforcement, the beaver will soon become extinct and the 
supply be drawn chiefly from Canada. We do not want to be 
understood as saying there are no beavers left, as such is un- 
true. In some states beavers have increased during the past 
few years due to the rigid enforcement of the law. The killing 
of beavers is prohibited in most states throughout the season. 
However, it is only a question of time when civilization will force 
the beaver to seek others quarters, and as the animal is not in- 
clined to migrate, quite often prevented, due to natural condi- 
tions, at other times killed by the hunter, trapper or farmer, the 
former for curiosity's sake, the latter to prevent the cutting of tim- 
Ler and to faciliate the natural flow of water, he will shortly be- 
come unknown, especially in sections whe^-e the woodsman's axe 
uncovers the natural haunt of the beaver. 

There are many ways to capture and kill this animal. The 
steel trap is preferred by trappers, while hunters use the deadly 
rifle to eradicate the beaver and often without receiving any 
remuneration. Deadfalls, snares and other home-made contriv- 
ances are sparingly used in Canada. 

To locate the beaver the trapper or hunter must look for him 
about streams, in timber that is rarely visited by man. Beaver 
dams and their houses are the true signs, and if the trapper has 
struck such a pla<:e and found dams and houses intact, he can 
feel assured that the animal is close by. He should approach 
such a place with care, especially if in the winter or spring 
riionths. Trappers who have come in contact with the animal 
for years, state that at certain periods of the year when the 
beaver is repairing the dam, building houses or playing, pickets 
are put on guard who immediately notify the remainder in case 
of danger or the approach of man. The signals given by these 
pickets are well understood by the remaining family. Such a 
signal consists of the animals giving a peculiar sound from their 
mouth, a sharp splash with their tail and feet, and immediate 
departure for their abode. On hearing such a signal all others 
will instantly take to the water and disappear. Those that hap- 
pen to be on land will leave everything and make for the water 
into which they dive and swim rapidly to their respective abodes. 
In a few moments thereafter everything is still, and one not 
familiar with such signals, would be astonished to find no sign 
of life. 




BEAVER SKINS 



Andersch Bros.' Hunter s and Trappers Guide. 217 

Some trappers have been in the habit of spearing beavers 
while in their home. Others cautiously set steel traps at such 
points where the beaver is known to come from the water. The 
usual method is to set the steel trap in three to four inches of 
water at such places where the beaver comes out or enters the 
river. Cotton or other soft material should be placed below the 
pan and the entire trap be covered with sand or earth. The trap- 
per must not leave any footprints, either upon the land or in the 
water, and to obliterate them a quantity of brush is tied together 
and such places where the prints appear are brushed over. After 
this operation the trapper usually takes his hat or cap and throws 
a quantity of water along the shore, so as to thoroughly drench 
the surroundings, which has a tendency to eradicate the human 
tracks as well as to eliminate the scent or odor of the trapper. 

Elsewhere in this book will be found original articles from 
trappers, which are very interesting and should be digested by 
those interested in hunting or trapping the beaver. The cas- 
toriums should be saved, a^ they are adapted not only for attract- 
ing the beaver, but in fact, nearly all other animals like the smell 
of castorium or beaver medicine as some call it. The manner 
of making this medicine will be found under "Decoy and Trap- 
pers' Secrets." 

Sliding poles should be used, unless one can make good use 
of a limb from a nearby tree or a young tree itself as a spring 
pole. The sliding pole, however, is the best, as the animal will 
drown in a short time, and be kept away from land animals. If 
a sliding pole is used, the pole should be dry, not green, and the 
bark should be first removed, otherwise the beaver is likely to 
carry the pole away for food purposes. 





Russian Sable Skin Northern Otter Skin 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 219 

TRAPPING THE OTTER. 

This aquatic animal is probably more hunted than any land or 
aquatic animal, due to the high price paid for their skins. The 
otter is found in many states and prefers rivers to lakes. Their 
homes are made along river banks and the animal makes a prac- 
tice of migrating from one stream to another. As the 
mother retains the young for a period of two to three years, it 
is common for trappers to see as many as 8 or lo otters in one 
vicinity. Their rambling and gregarious habits are especially 
noteworthy when migrating from one stream to another, one 
following the other in a path, and sometimes a line of march 
covers many miles, one following the other at a distance of 5 to 
20 yards. It is remarkable that the otter is able to choose the 
shortest line in his travels. 

About their playgrounds, if the banks are 8 to 12 feet high, 
one will see the so-called otter-slides, and it is generally about 
these places that the trapper sets his traps; the latter should be 
attached to sliding or spring-poles. These slides are usually 
between some trees or bushes giving protection from the sun. 
The practice of otters is never to walk on or neir these slides 
when ascending the shores, but usually choose a place where the 
bank has a gradual elevation on which to ascend, and thus walk 
to the slide. The otter will usually rest a few minutes before 
descending, and many trappers place their steel traps on the high- 
est elevation of these slides, and as the otter gets into position, 
becomes the victim. Such traps should be attached to strong 
spring-poles. The otter will usually slide down into the water 
with all available force and swim under water for a considerable 
distance, only to regain the shore and repeat the former operi- 
tion of descending the slide for another plunge. 

Trappers should not be disappointed in case otters do not 
make their daily appearance about the slides, for pqssibly they 
have migrated to other streams and will return in the course of 
five to ten days. These excursions are made quite often, both 
during the summer and winter. 

There are many ways to trap or capture them, and as they 
have subterranean passages, the entrance usually being 15 to 20 
inches below the water level, traps should be set there. Many 
trappers use claw-traps, which are set in center of slides, but 
the most experienced trappers will set their traps at places where 
the otter usually starts out of the water and makes for the slide. 
The usual method is to set steel traps, one on each side of the 
path, not in the center ; thus the otter, in passing upwards, will 
most likely be caught by the right or left foot, and sometimes 
with both. Traps placed on the bottom, where the otter comes 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 221 

out of water, should be attached to sliding poles, as the animal 
should be drowned in the quickest, possible time. No. 2^, 3 and 
35^ Newhouse traps, or other makes similar in size, are com- 
monly used for otters. All traps should be buried in the usual 
manner, some cotton, leaves or similar substance should be placed 
under the pan. 

It is more difficult to set traps beneath the ice, but by follow- 
ing closely this method one should be successful. If the trap 
is to be set about or in airholes, attach the chain to a long pole, 
which should necessarily stick out three or four feet over the ice, 
have one end securely driven in on the bottom. The chain can 
be attached by wire or by inserting the pole through the ring 
before it is driven into the ground. To prevent the chain from 
slipping off from either end, one should drive a wooden pin 
through the pole, the chain should traverse the entire length of the 
pole loosely. A suitable platform should be made on which trap 
is to be set, and covered over with evergreens ; this shelf or plat- 
form should be securely fastened to the pole so that the trap when 
set is 6 to 10 inches below the ice. Some trappers wind the 
entire jaws of the traps with evergreens, also the springs ; 
thus, when the otter comes to the hole to obtain a fresh 
supply of air, its front feet will rest on the trap, and if the latter 
is placed correctly,, the animal will become a victim. The 
otter, after struggling under water for a reasonable length of 
time, will drown. 

The pole should naturally be driven very securely into the 
ground, and it is a good policy to attach the outer end of the 
pole to a rope or wire; thus, should the pole become disengaged 
from the bottom, the trapper will be able to pull up the pole b}- 
the string, and naturally the victim will come along. 

As this animal possesses an unusually fine sense of smell, it 
is seldom indeed that a trapper is able to observe the otter at 
play or even see it plunge into the water, but if one is fortunate 
to gain the desired location, he will naturally see the otter come 
out of the water, ascend the bank, pass to the slide, and then 
with all its might and force plunge into the water, and while 
under water will swim considerable distances, its route being 
noticed by the air-bubbles. 

Steel traps should be set under water or under the ice near 
the shore where the depth does not exceed two feet. The usual 
custom is to set the traps in a nest of three to four. It is always 
a good policy to set traps below the airholes, providing the depth 
of water under the ice is from one to three feet; in either case, 
the traps should be covered with evergreens and attached to a 
sliding pole. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 223 

A certain Wisconsin trapper, during the '70's, was very suc- 
cessful in catching otters by nesting his traps about the airholes, 
he attached a stone weighing 6 to 8 pounds to each trap, also a 
15 ft. long wire to some stationary object upon the ice. The otter 
having sprung a trap, would' drag trap and stone away from the 
air-hole as far as wire permitted, and shortly drown. The other 
traps would remain intact. The trapper, upon finding a trap dis- 
arranged, would pull that particular wire, thus bringing the trap, 
stone and otter to the surface. By the use of this method he 
caught as many as three otters in one day. 

Hudson Bay trappers prefer to set their traps under water, 
and visit them in a boat. 

A certain half-breed informed the writer that he caught many 
Otters with snares. The latter were set about the inner edges 
of the air-hole, just one to two inches below the ice, being held 
in place by thin cords weighted down, also by sticks driven in 
the ice. Such snares should be attached to a stone, probably 
weighing eight to twelve pounds, and sufficient to hold and drown 
the animal. In case the water is too shallow, a spring pole 
rhould be used. If one is unable to secure a proper spring poie 
suggest the use of a weighted pole ; see illustration elsewhere. 
Heavy copper or brass wire should be used in all instances, as 
otters have been known to become caught in such snares about 
the body, just below the forefeet, therefore it takes a strong wire 
and proper weight to prevent escape. 

In the springtime, when the ice is gone, otters can be chased 
with dogs, especially where more than one otter is seen. The 
usual custom is to place heavy seines across the stream pre- 
venting escape from ascending or descending the river, and 
when the otter rises to obtain air about the seine, they should be 
killed by using a rifle. 

Mr. Richter relates that in Schottland dogs w^re used to 
drive otters for long distances. A seine is similarly stretched 
across the river, and when the dogs bring otters, up or down 
stream, as the case may be. another seine is stretched to pre- 
vent escape, thus hemming the animals with the dogs between 
two seines. Men with spears or rifles dispatch the otters in 
quick succession. The dead bodies cannot escape by floating, 
but usually the do-T^s are trained to dive and bring the bodies 
out should they fail to appear on top the water. 

During the winter time, if the paths of otters are discovered, 
it is advisable to set a bunch of traps on the paths, as the prob- 
abilities are the otters will come back the same way, and if the 
traps are properly set — that is, the pan about two inches from 
center of paths, most likely one or two animals will be secured. 
Spring or weighted poles should be used. 



224 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

HOW THE SEA OTTER IS CAPTURED. 

Peculiar methods are adapted to capturing this animal, and 
in the attempt many hunters lost their lives, but seemingly others 
are ready to assume the unfinished work of the former. 

Capturing this otter in mid-sea is out of the question, and 
as they possess gregarious and rambling habits, hunters usually 
await the opportune time, when the ramblers are about one or 
two miles from the shore, as many as 15 to 20 boats, each con- 
taining two or three men, one being provided with a rifle, the 
other with a spear or harpoon, and the third generally manag- 
ing the boat. The boats usually go out in rows, following one 
after another, stretched out as long as a mile. If any one sees 
an otter the proper signal is given and a circle about the animal 
is formeS ; naturally the otter will disappear, but on its next 
arise the riflemen will discharge their rifles, so the bullets will 
strike 10 to 25 feet from the animal, thus preventing the latter 
from obtaining fresh supply of air. On its second descent one or 
two of the boats leave the circle, these generally contain the best 
harpoonists. All are still awaiting the next arise of the animal 
when he is promptly disturbed and prevented from breathing in a 
fresh supply of air, either by the discharge of the rifles or by 
splashes of the oars. If not too far, the harpoonists will attempt 
to spear, but if unsuccessful the former method of preventing the 
animal from obtaining air will finally triumph. If not killed 
by the harpoonists the otter will drown, due to lack of fresh air. 
It often requires two to three hours to capture one animal. 

It is very seldom, in fact, extremely so, when anyone can 
approach this animal in a boat while the latter is on the shore 
and a target for the hunter. Their sense of smell, sight and 
hearing is very fine. 

During stormy weather hunters attempt to captur.e the otter 
on the windward side of the ocean, as the animal, during such 
storms, generally seeks shelter on the shore, and sometimes 
travels quite a distance from the water. The hunter is able to 
approach the otter unusually close, as the noise of the wind and 
the restless waves deafen all possible sound of their approach, 
or even the discharge of the rifle, should the aim be poor, is 
unheard or unnoticed. 

On the Asian coast, as related by Steller, as many as 75 otters 
were killed on one occasion. The otters, in this instance, 
reached shelter during a furious storm by landing on the shore. 
A number of hunters provided with clubs chased them further 
inland, and when escape was made less possible a number of 
them preceded and clubbed the otters to death, the remaining 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



225 



guarding the outward passage. While the otter is generally 
considered dangerous, these men dispatched them with remark- 
able ease ; a single, stout blow on the forehead caused the otter 
to place the two forepaws over the head, and another soon puts 
them out of misery. 

The use of steel traps is little resorted to, as the sections of 
the coast which the otters frequent is generally uninhabited, 
therefore would be unprofitable, especially as the landing of the 
animals is an uncertainty, both as to time and place. 

Mr. Anderson, an experienced seal hunter, states that the 
reason such a small number of sea otters are killed is because 
their habits, as to time and place of landing is uncertain, also 
the number of the animals is insignificant as compared with the 
seals. 




CABIB017 



TRAPPERS' SECRETS. 

How to Prepare and Use Decoys, Poison, Bait, 
Scent, Lure, Etc. 

NOTES ABOUT TRAPPING. 

The trapper or hunter who has made a study of the habits 
of fur-bearing animals is the one who will succeed. He knows 
their habits, their run-ways, distinguishes their tracks, knows 
where to look for mink, marten, raccoon, wolves, foxes, otter 
and other animals, and naturally places the right-sized trap, the 
proper spring or sliding pole, the proper size clog or drag, the 
necessary weight for deadfalls, and last but not least, knows the 
right time to capture the animals. 

Keep your eyes peeled, ears open, make least possible noise, 
be always prepared to use your rifle at a moment's notice, keep 
cool, don't get excited, examine where you go, note surround- 
ings, act promptly but not without deliberation, provide your- 
self with necessary clothing and food, don't get in too much of 
a hurry, and remember above all that your health is better than 
your wealth, and treat your brother hunter or trapper as you 
would have him treat you. 

Be on the lookout for signs of game, ascertain cause of 
flight of birds, note sudden noise or disturbances, and when you 
follow animals do so against the wind if possible. 

Ascertain where game frequents, follow tracks, as they are 
likely to lead to some den or watering place, and note carefully 
signs of a previous struggle or feeding place. By all means 
convince yourself what animal you are following. This you 
can do in many ways ; size of tracks and their nature, length of 
steps, object of animal, location of its travels, size and quantity 
of its manure, size of den, whether it can climb trees, also if 
dens are visited look for hairs on sides. After you have estab- 
lished the kind of animal and know its habits, it is an easy 
matter to set your traps. Keep in mind that certain animals 
seldom go over the same route unless something is there to 
attract them. Feeding places are visited tens and hundreds of 
times, if not by the same, by other animals possessing carniv- 
orous habits. If many tracks are visible and you are unable to 
set your traps at a suitable location, make some artificial abode, 
or set in one of the paths, drag bait or previously captured game 
in various directions leading to concealed traps, and invariably 
leave bait close to traps. By all means leave the surroundings 
in a natural state and visit your traps as often as possible, and 
if unmolested do not approach them. 



228 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

SOME RULES AND REGULATIONS ON TRAPPING. 

Prepare traps, decoys, stretchers, and pick out trapping 
grounds one to three months in advance. 

Start to trap when the weather is real cold — never before 
November — better wait until December. 

:(: H^ jj! s); :(; H^ 

Stop trapping in the spring as soon as the skins begin to 
get red, and the fur thin, pale and shedding. The skin is gen- 
erally thick when the fur is thin. 

^ ^ ^ ^ «)C «ic 

Remove the skin promptly from the animal unless the car- 
cass is found in a frozen state. 

If time permits educate fur-bearing animals to visit places 
where yon intend to place your traps. 

Post yourself thoroughly in manner of skinning, and how- 
skins should be prepared to bring best prices. 

Don't try to fool buyers by overstretching a skin. They 
know their business and are not blind, besides overstretching 
hurts the skin. 

Keep furs away from artificial heat and from the sun. 
Rapid drying by the stove or sun is not desirable, and tends to 
curl tips. Hang furs in a cool and shady place. 

Do not cut ofif ears, nose, or mutilate the skin, and if acci- 
dentally cut, sew portions together before drying in Indian style. 

Skunk, opossum, raccoon, mink, and similar animals can be 
smoked out of their abode by the use of sulphur or brimstone. 

Never dry skins by the fire or close to artificial heat, neither 
expose them to the sun. 

Never make a practice of handling traps with the bare hands, 
especially when about to set them. 

5|C * * * * * 

Scrape all fat and meat ofT the skin before drying. Skins 
should be stretched shortly after being scraped and while yet very 
green. Give the skins as much as possible their natural size and 
do not overstretch any particular part. 

****** 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 229 

Do not attempt to set large traps without two clamps ; it 
can be done but is a foolish piece of business for a trapper to 
attempt, especially if alone. 



Never go it alone, especially if you expect to be away one or 
more weeks. Share your luck and experience with a good trap- 
per. A good dog is the next best companion. 



Furs caught in season, properly handled, and marketed during 
the months of December, January, February and March will 
command best prices. 

DECOYS AND POISONS. 

(Trappers' Secrets.) 

The list below gives names . of various oils — natural and 
artificial — used by hunters and trappers. Elsewhere in this book 
will be found how the oil is used, when and where applied. 

Artificial Oils. 

Oil of Fenugreek. Oil of Amber. 

Oil of Asafetida. Oil of Lavender. 

Oil of Valerian. Oil of Rhodium. 

Oil of Anise. Oil of Cumin. 

Natural Musk. 

Oil of Beaver from Beaver. Oil of Mink from Mink. 
Oil of Otter from Otter. Oil of Musk from Muskrats. 

Fish Oil. 

This preparation is made by cutting up various sizes and 
kinds of fish into small pieces, placing into a bottle and ex- 
posing same to the sun, loosely corked. In about 3 to 4 weeks 
of continued exposure the contents should be pressed through 
a sieve, separating the oil, which should be run into a bottle 
having a small neck. The smaller the fishes the better the oil. 

If fish oil is unobtainable and the trapper should run out of 
this preparation, purchase sardines and use them as bait, or 
make oil therefrom. A small ten cent box will go quite a ways. 
Salmon is also very good. 



230 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Matrix and TJrine from Animals. 

Matrix and urine from the female fox, wolf and dog during 
period of coition makes an excellent bait for wild animals of 
the dog family. This preparation in order to retain the odor 
should be tightly corked up and used similarly to other artificial 
and natural oils. 

Matrix from the female mink or marten taken from the ani- 
mal during the copulative period is probably the best attraction 
for the male species. Capture one or more females, dip or hold 
rear parts into sweet oil or alcohol, later kill the animal, cut 
out the sexual parts, place all into a bottle which cork tightly. 
Smear beyond or about the traps. 

Poison. 

Sugar of Lead. Strychnine. Arsenic. 

Poisoned Eggs. 

To kill animals that frequent the henroost to devour eggs, 
also those that rob the nests of wild birds, as well as for baiting 
traps, snares, etc., procure one or more eggs and bore a small 
hole with a wire or gimlet in one end, into which insert strych- 
nine, and paste hole over with sticking plaster, paper or egg 
shell. 

Some animals refuse poisoned meat and vegetables, neither 
can they be caught as promptly as desired with traps, snares 
and other contrivances, and their suspicion is seldom aroused if 
these prepared eggs are laid in some conspicuous place, in a 
nest — natural or artificial — or in their paths, under bushes, out- 
houses, barns, and, in fact, any place where these animals fre- 
quent. Trappers often place these poisoned eggs under a dead 
chicken, other times in nests of wild birds. Farmers who are 
desirous of catching their neighbor's dog in their chicken coop 
can apply this method of stopping the thief and prevent a revisit. 

Capsules. 

Equal parts of the following poisons in 2 to 3 grain cap- 
sules for skunk, mink and small animals, and 4 to 5 grain cap- 
sules for wolf, fox and similar sized beasts are used with success 
by leading trappers. Insert poison into meat, also vegetables: 

One-half of powdered arsenic. One-half of carbolic crystals. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 231 

Decoy. 

Dung of any species, also their urine will attract like kind. 

Place urine and dung in a bottle, cork tightly and use small 
quantity at each setting. This decoy is especially good during 
the rutting season. 

Fox and Wolf Decoy. 

3 oz. Urine of a dog, fox or wolf (female preferred). 

I oz. Oil of valerian. 

Mix well, use 5 to 10 drops on stake, stump of tree or pro- 
truding rock. Fox, wolf, in fact all animals of the dog kind, 
are attracted by this decoy and will urinate. Set traps 12 to 
14 inches from trunk of tree. Bury and cover traps in the 
usual way. 

Mink Decoy. 

ji Musk of Mink. 34 Musk of Muskrat. 

% Matrix of Mink. % Oil of Cumin. 

Mix well. If too thick add urine of the female mink or alco- 
hol. Keep corked. Use few drops. 

Coyote or Fox Bait. 

I oz. oil of cumin ; : 

1 oz. oil of rhodium ; 

^ oz. asafetida (grated) : 

Wart of horse, size of hickory nut (grated). 

Alcohol to cut and make compound to consistency of dough. 
Place in wdde necked bottle, 6 oz. or larger; keep corked. Use 
in two or three weeks. Smear small quantity close to traps 
on some stick or bush. 

To Overcome Smell of Iron. 

To overcome the smell of iron as well as human scent, nothing 
is better than a mixture or compound made out of catnip. Mink, 
fox and nearly all other animals are familiar with the peculiar 
catnip odor; and if this compound is smeared over the traps 
and hands, all strange odors are overcome. The animals, being 
familiar with the odor are not suspicious. 

Procure a quantity of catnip and mash it between stones or 
in some old mill and add enough liquid to make a thick paste. 
Place this into a screw top can or bottle, use when you want it. 

Mink Scent. 

3/2 oz. essence of peppermint. 

2 oz. fish oil. 
2 oz. honey. 



252 Andersch Sros/ Sunters and Trappers Guide. 

Mink Salt. 

%. part musk of muskrat, ^4 P^rt musk of mink, ^A part alco- 
hol. Keep corked up in warm place ten days before using. 

Fox Musk. 

Musk taken from the glandal sac of the fox is excellent 
for attracting like species. Use this musk as you would the 
musk of beaver, muskrat and other natural decoys. It is an 
undisputed secret held sacred by old trappers that natural musk 
will attract its own kind of animals quicker and from a greater 
distance than any other preparation. It is also necessary to use 
the utmost care in trapping for sly Mr. Fox. 

Oil of Otter (Musk). 

This is obtained from the animal by extracting the substance 
from the two small glands on the belly of both sexes, often called 
oil stones. This natural oil is used by experienced trappers with 
splendid results in attracting these species. 

Manure or Dung Bait. 

Obtain manure or urine of the animal that you seek to cap- 
ture and if this is unobtainable, procure the droppings of the 
domestic dog, but what is still better, from tame foxes or wolves. 
Droppings from the sheep are also h^ndy and of good avail. 

Musk of Beaver or Beaver Medicine. 

(The following four formulas are natural baits and will fool 
the oldest beaver and other animals.) Make cold and preserve 
in a large-neck bottle. 

(i) Castors of one beaver, 
20 drops oil of cinnamon, 
lo drops oil of anise, 

Urine of beaver sufficient to make the consistency of 
mush. 

(2) Castors of one beaver, 

7 drops oil of sassafras, 
7 drops oil of anise, 
10 drops oil from the oil stone. 

(3) Castors of one beaver, 
10 drops Jamaica rum, 

5 drops oil of anise, 
5 drops oil of cloves, 
5 drops oil of sassafras, 
5 drops oil of rhodium, 

(4) Castors of one beaver, 

10 drops oil from oil stone, 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 233 

Urine of beaver sufficient to make all the consistency 
of mush. 

Mink Scent. 

A Pennsylvania trapper writes as follows : "Take two or 
three scent bags found at the root of the mink's tail and place 
them in a 3 or 4-ounce large-necked bottle, over which pour 
ly^ oz. of oil of anise; fill remainder with water. Now take 
sharp knife or chisel and cut bag into as many pieces as possible. 
Cork up and leave stand in warm place. Do not permit it to 
freeze. This is a good scent for capturing mink and similar 
animals. Have had best of luck and can recommend it to any 
trapper, and I feel confident that he will be successful in at- 
tracting mink. 

Mink Decoy. 

"This bait is especially adapted for the mink during their 
running season. It is prepared as follows : 

"During the fall months, or in fact any time that I have 
occasion to capture a mink, I remove the animal's scent bags, 
which are placed within a 2 oz. bottle into which I pour i oz. 
of alcohol and 10 drops of oil of anise. Cork and let stand in 
a warm place. Two scent bags to i oz. alcohol and 10 drops of 
anise is correct; larger quantities in same proportion can be 
made." 

Secret Method. 

"My method and secret of success is to wrap the jaws, springs, 
pan and every portion of the steel trap except the trigger, with 
withes (hemlock preferred). Even the wire traps are wound 
around with these withes by me. On the ends and edges to hold 
withes from coming off. I tie with waxed thread. This method 
removes the smell of iron and I do not have to cover up sets so 
heavily with earth, as the traps already resemble the surround- 
ings very much. Of course, I remove the newness of my work 
with damp dirt which is rubbed or smeared into the covering. 
Probably if smeared with wax tallow and a little castorium, the 
setting would require no bait or other decoy, but I have never 
tried it. 

Jess McArthur. 

Natural Mink Scent or Lure. 

If one is successful in capturing a female mink when the 
animal is In heat, do not injure or kill her, especially if the ani- 
mal's scent to attract the male to the trap is desired. Obtain 
a pint of pure sweet oil, and dip her hind parts into the oil and 
hold her therein for 10 or 15 minutes. Immediately thereafter 



234 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

place the oil in a bottle which cork tightly. A few drops 
sprinkled on the twigs or in the vicinty of traps, or place four 
or five drops on a leaf and place it in abode beyond the trap or 
in a hollow log. 

The trapper who favored us with the above claims to have 
had success, and gives good reason for believing that thisj 
natural scent is much stronger than that obtained from the 
dead mink. No alcohol is to be added and if the preparation 
is to be kept over the summer months, it should be placed in 
an ice house and kept there, otherwise in the lowest possible 
temperature. 

Perhaps after obtaining the natural scent from the animal 
in the above method, it would be advisable to kill the mink and 
by removing that portion of the animal and placing it in a bottle 
in connection with alcohol, one would be able to ascertain more 
positively, especially if used in connection with the first named 
preparation, as to which is the best. If the latter preparation 
is to be made place parts into a wide-necked bottle, holding 
three to four ounces, and fill with alcohol. 

Fred O'Flynn. 

My Favorite Fox Scent and Bait. 

"I prefer skunk, woodchuck or muskrat for bait. These I 
cut into small pieces about as large as an egg. This preparation 
is made during the summer months, placed in a clean screw-top 
can and exposed to the sun so as to Ijecome tainted. The scent 
that I use is made out of pure skunk glands, pure strained honey 
(not sugar-fed honey, but clover and flower honey.) This scent 
is especially good for the fall months. During the winter months 
I obtain the matrix from a female fox taken during the animal's 
running season, and in addition to this I take the musk of two 
or three muskrats and a small quantity of pure strained honey. 
Mix these well together and I assure you that same will attract 
the male fox and is probably the strongest scent in existence. 
I have also had good success in trapping foxes with scent made 
out of frog eggs ; mix with the musk of muskrats and glands of 
the skunk. I wish my brother trappers best success." 

G. W. O. 

How to Make Decoy to Capture Foxes, Wild Cats and Other 

Animals. 

Mr. J. H. Van Ness, a Michigan trapper, gives us the 
following secret and claims to have been very successful when- 
ever the bait or decoy as stated below is used: 

"Remove from the legs of horses a piece of cork. A piece 
the size of an ordinary hickory-nut is sufficient to make one 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Chuide. 235 

pint. Cut or shave this piece of cork into small shavings and 
put same into a pint of lard, also place a piece of asafetida as 
large as a bean therein, and cook these three articles together. 
Let them boil for several hours over a slow fire. Stir contin- 
ually and keep shavings from settling. A peculiar, strong odor 
will arise just as soon as boiling begins ; the women folks will 
leave the room and the dog and cat will begin to sniff and smell. 
After it has boiled for two or three hours remove from the 
stove and permit to cool. 

"Smear this preparation above or about the traps, but never 
upon them. The fox, wild cat, and even the domestic dog as 
well as cat, is likely to enter the trap. This bait will attract 
these animals from long distances. It is very powerful, and, 
as aforesaid, has always been very successful. 

'T usually wear gloves in handling traps preparatory to set- 
ting them, also boil my traps or bury them for a few days in 
order to remove the smell of iron." 

We are indebted to Mr. C. A. Beeh, an Iowa trapper, for 
the following decoy that he claims to have used and continues 
to use for trapping mink, wolf, fox, skunk and other carnivor- 
ous animals. The following formula is based on a pint of 
preparation : 

"Take a pint fruit jar and fill one-third full with blood. 
Blood from domestic animals will do, especially from calf, dog 
or hog. Add the following : 2 teaspoonfuls or 2 fluid drahms 
oil of cinnamon ; 2 teaspoonfuls of powdered asafetida ; 2 tea- 
spoonfuls oil of cloves ; grind a nutmeg or pound it between 
rocks so that it is very fine, and place in the mixture ; fill the 
remaining part of the bottle with alcohol or whiskey ; mix 
thoroughly. Boiling is unnecessary. Keep bottle corked up for 
at least 5 to 10 days and then run through a cloth or thin sieve. 
After it is strained, return the liquid in any kind of bottle and 
throw away the thick stuff. Before throwing away the thick 
stuff be sure and squeeze all the liquid therefrom. 

"This preparation should be used in similar manner to other 
good preparations by smearing above or about the traps. Being 
very powerful, it will attract animals for a great distance." 

Honey-Bait. 

This bait is commonly used for bears. Save Mr. Bear the 
trouble of climbing trees and give him his heart's delight. Place 
this bait near the steel trap, snare or deadfall, or within and 
about the dugout. Take a quantity of honey, place in a vessel, 
add one-tenth part of beeswax and a few drops oil of anise. 
Place pan upon a stove and allow to come to a boil. Stir fre- 



236 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

quently to prevent burning or becoming settled. This prepara- 
tion, after it is cold, can be used in various ways. Some trap- 
pers cut up a dried sponge, attaching each small piece to a wire 
or string and permitting the sponge to become soaked with the 
preparation. The object of attaching the wire or string is that 
the sponge may be conveniently tied to trap or thereabouts. 
Never smear traps with this preparation, unless you want to 
catch the bear by the head, and that certainly is not desired. 
If traps are set close to brush, smear the bait on latter, about 
four to five feet above the ground. 

How to Kill Wolves and Foxes with Poison. 

In the Dakotas, Montana, Wyoming, Colorado, Idaho, 
western and southwestern states in general where wolves are 
still in large numbers and often roam in herds, and where hun- 
dreds of cattle, sheep, colts, and other domestic as well as wild 
animals are annually killed by the wolf, it is the prevailing 
custom that an entire dead carcass be poisoned. Usually the 
carcass is dragged out upon the open prairie on some high knoll 
or hill. Thirty to fifty incisions at various places on the body 
are made with a knife into which pure strychnine is inserted. 
It takes a large amount of stychnine to poison an entire carcass, 
so that when wild beasts partake of a few mouthfuls of the 
poisoned meat sufficient poison will get into their stomachs to 
produce death. It is also advisable to cut off small pieces of 
about one inch square into which a small quantity of strychnine 
is placed, and the pieces strewn about the body. The bodies of 
the wolf and fox are usually found at a distance of 20 to 40 
rods, sometimes in the immediate vicinity of the bait. 

Other trappers cut the carcass into small pieces and in- 
sert strychnine in good-sized quantities therein, then distribute 
the poisoned bait on the open prairie where wolves and foxes 
are known to run. 

If strychnine is inserted in chopped meat — the latter made 
into round forms and then permitted to freeze — and strewn 
about, the fox or wolf is very likely to swallow the entire bait, 
resulting in almost immediate death. 

Trappers who are desirous of using poison to affect the 
death of game generally procure rabbits, birds and other small 
animals which they cut into small pieces. A liberal quantity 
of strychnine or other poison is placed in the middle portion 
thereof. The pieces need not be large, usually one to one and 
a half inches round or square. The fact that bait smells strong 
and rapidly decays is no great detriment, sometimes the wild 
beast will prefer these decayed pieces to fresh bait. While some 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 237 

trappers insert the strychnine in capsule form, others beUeve 
that strychnine will act more promptly and with better results 
if inserted in the old-fashioned way. As foxes, wolves and 
other animals are very suspicious they will often water upon 
the bait, other times smell it, but generally when possessed with 
severe hunger will partake of some — much to their detriment. 
Usually these animals visit some knoll, hill, or high elevation and 
scrutinize the surroundings with the utmost care. Therefore, 
if the bait cannot be strewn upon their paths, it is advisable 
to place same on some high elevation as above stated. 

Decoy for Wolves. 

If you have tried everything and cannot get the wolf to the 
trap, try the following : Obtain the bladder from a dog or 
wolf (either sex) which empty in a jug or bottle. If your 
traps are already prepared in the form of a cluster, take a piece 
of porous wood and pour the contents of the jug over it, saturat- 
ing same thoroughly. A Montana trapper assured us that he 
has succeeded in capturing hundreds of wolves in his time. 
After he caught the first wolf he always saved the water from 
the animal and used it in his next set. This same party caught 
enough wolves to help him pay off the mortgage on the ranch. 
The bounty and tbe skin, not only in Montana, but in other 
states, amount to considerable money. This method is certainly 
worth trying. 

Fox Bait. 

A mixture made of the following has been successfully used 
by various trappers. Take all or part of a muskrat carcass 
and place within a screw-top jar, one holding two quarts pre- 
ferred. Then take the fat of the skunk, also the scent bags. 
Procure three field mice and place entrails of same within the 
can. Screw lid on can, not too tight, and place in a pile 
of heated manure and leave for two or three weeks. This mix- 
ture should be well stirred before it is placed in the pile, but 
thereafter the can should be kept closed as much as possible. 
When one has occasion to use this preparation, take a stick and 
smear this within the abode or at other convenient places to which 
the fox or wolf is to be attracted. 

Mink Bait. 

Mr. O. G. Wells states that he ties a live crawfish with 
thread to the pan of trap. Tie thread to each arm, close to 
the body, but not in the joints. Then tie both threads together 
and fasten body to pan so that the fish will be able to move 
but not off. the pan. The trap should be set in shallow water 



238 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

close to the shore, and the bait should almost reach the level 
of the water. As the mink travels along the shore in search 
of food he will see the bait, and in endeavoring to remcJve it 
with his foot will spring the trap and become a victim. 

THE SLIDING POLE, SPRING POLE, CLOG, DRAG; HOW TO 

MAKE AND USE THEM. BY EXPERIENCED 

TRAPPERS. 

The Si'd' ^"^ ^^ ^^^ ^^^^ methods employed to pre- 

Pole ^^"^ aquatic animals from escaping, either by 

gnawing or twisting their feet off, or from being 

devoured by other animals, is to use a sliding chain or a knotted 

rope. To use either of them the water must be deep. 

The sliding pole, which is made out of a green sapling, 
securely fastened on shore, the smaller end being in the water, 
is very good. The weight of the chain and trap is sufficient to 
drown the animal after his first struggle to free himself. 

Sd n ^ green sapling or limb of tree, to which the 
p I chain is fastened and the end firmly held to the 

ground by a notched stake, is preferable to any- 



thing else for land trapping. 




/P/?A(7 



Should be used when spring pole, sliding pole 
Drags. 



or chains are unhandy or cannot be obtained. On 



some of the larger traps one will find a three or 
or four pronged hook to act as a drag, attached. The weight of 
drag or clog entirely depends upon the size of the animal and 
that of the trap. An old limb of a tree makes an excellent 
drag, one which can be followed very easily. Quite often the 
animal becomes tangled up. Stakes should not be used unless 
on the open prairie where wood is scarce and drags of that 
kind unobtainable. 

\Ai ■ h* A*t u H A successful trapper knows the im- 

_ portance of drownmg the anmial after he 

has sprung the trap at the earliest possible 

moment. To do this is a connumdrum and many trappers pay 

insufficient attention to this important item. If traps are set 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 239 

on a log there is nothing easier than to attach a stone to the 
chain. This should be attached as near as possible to the trap, 
and so arranged that when the animal springs the trap and jumps 
into the water, the stone will follow him. At times, if the end 
of chain is attached to a rope or wire and placed over limb of 
tree, with the other end weighted so when the animal springs 
the trap he will jerk the rope, and by so doing the weight that 
rests on the fork will descend, lifting the victfm up in its descent. 
These appliances are sometimes called gallows. 

Anything to drown aquatic animals and to raise land animals 
off the earth, will do. The trapper who knows the different 
ways and can choose the best one in any given locality, is the 
boy that will be crowned with success. 

Sliding Pole, Spring Pole, Clogs, Drags, etc. 

_ For animals such as mink, muskrat, raccoon, badger, 

opossum and similar animals, a light drag, to which 
the trap is attached, is often preferable to having the chain fast- 
ened on some permanent object. A branch of a tree that ha? many 
sub-branches is preferable. Do not have it too heavy and see that 
ring is securely fastened. 




Sliding 
Pole. 



A sliding pole in the capture of mink, muskrat, and 
other aquatic animals is often preferable to that of a 
drag, spring pole or stakes. Such a pole should be 
eight to ten feet long and the additional limbs trimmed so as to 
permit the ring of the trap to descend, but not to come back. The 
end, of course, should be driven into the bank or weighted down 
by stones so that the animal w'/ll be unable to withdraw it. The 
other end should be in deep water. In the animal's desire to 
escape he will gradually go into the water and not being able to 
come back will drown. 

y. -,. "Some powerful and violent animals, if caught 

in a trap that is staked fast, will pull their legs off 
or beat the trap in pieces, but if allowed to drag the trap about 
with a moderate weight attached will behave more gently or at 
least will not be able to get loose for want of purchase. The 
weight used in such cases is called a clog. It is usually a pole 
or stick of wood of sufficient size to correspond with size of 
animal As the object is to encumber but not hold it fast, the 



240 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

chain should be attached to one of its ends so that it will not be 
liable to become fastened among the bushes for a considerable 
time. The usual way is to slip the ring qver the large end of the 
pole and fasten with a wedge. The weight for a black bear 
should be 30 pounds, and for a grizzly bear 80 pounds." 

- . "In taking several kinds of land animals, such 
pring ^^ ^^^ marten and fisher, it is necessary to pro- 
vide against their being devoured by other ani- 
mals before the trapper reaches them, also against their gnaw- 
ing off their legs or breaking the chain or the trap by violence. 
The contrivance used for this purpose is called a spring pole 
and is prepared in the following manner: If a small tree can 
be found standing near the place where your trap is set, trim it 
and use it for a spring as it stands. If not, cut a pole of suffi- 
cient size and drive it firmly into the ground, bend down the 
top, fasten the chain ring to it, and fasten the pole in its bent 
position by a notch or hook on a small tree or stick driven into 
the ground. When the animal is caught, his struggles, pulling 
on the chain, unhook the pole, which flying up with a jerk, 
carries him into the air out of the reach of prowlers, and dis- 
ables his attempts to escape by self-amputation or other violence. 
The size of the pole must be proportioned to the weight of the 
game it is expected to lift." 

"Animals of aquatic habits when caught in 
*p ' ' ^ traps invariably plunge at once into deep water 

° *■ and it is the object of the trapper availing him- 

self of this plunge, to drown his captive as soon as possible in 
order to stop his violence and keep him out of the reach of 
other animals. The weight of the trap and chain is sufficient 
for this purpose, in case of the muskrat. But in taking the 
larger amphibious animals such as the beaver, the trapper uses 
a sliding pole. It is prepared in the following manner: Cut 
a pole ten or twelve feet long, leaving branches enough on the 
end to prevent the ring of the chain from slipping off. Place 
the pole near where you set your trap in an inclined position, 
with its small end reaching into the deepest part of the stream 
and the large end secured by a hook driven into the ground. 
Slip the ring of the chain on to this pole and see that it is free 
to traverse down the whole length. When the animal is taken 
it plunges desperately down into the region towards which the 
pole leads. The ring slides down to the end of the pole at 
the bottom of the stream and with a short chain prevents the 
victim from rising to the surface again or returning to the 
shore." 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and T rappers Guide. 241 

HOW TO SKIN FUR BEARING ANIMALS, MANNER OF 

STRETCHING RAW FUR SKINS, HOW TO MAKE 

FUR STRETCHERS, MANNER OF PREPARING 

SKINS FOR THE MARKET, DRYING 

SKINS, ETC. 

The Handling of Furs. 

Not only is it necessary for the trapper to possess the knowl- 
edge of setting traps, snares or other contrivances, or in what 
manner to poison, also the proper manipulation of the rifle or 
shot-gun in hunting or trapping fur-bearing animals, but he must 
also comprehend and master the proper care of skins in order 
to realize full market value and to prevent spoiling. 

To be successful a trapper should visit his traps as often 
as possible. Every twenty-four hours or every other day is 
generally sufficient. If the victim lies too long in the trap 
the skin is likely to slip or taint. Also other animals may damage 
or devour the victim. The skin should be removed just as soon 
as the animal is dead or the fur sufficiently dry. It is poor policy 
to remove skin while the body is in a frozen state. If the body 
is warm, it is often advisable, especially in larger animals, to 
start the blood by cutting, permitting the blood' to flow as freely 
as possible. 

Proper Way of Skinning. 

In the skinning of animals that require the skin to be dried 
in a cased shape, such as mink, marten, otter, muskrat, red fox, 
wild cat, lynx, wolf, badger, opossum, etc., it is necessary to 
begin with the knife at the hind feet and slit down to and around 
the vent, strip the skin from the tailbone, in case of an otter 
cut the tail open but on other animals simply pull the skin over 
the bone. Then peel the skin from the body by drawing or pull- 
ing it over, leaving the fur inward. Use the knife as little as 
possible. One should have no difficulty if above method is used. 
Leave all claws attached to the skin, also care should be taken 
not to mutilate the skin around the mouth and eyes as some 
skins are used for mounting purposes. Heads must be com- 
plete. 

Skinning Beaver. 

Take a regular butcher's skinning knife and slit from center 
of lower jaw down over belly to vent. Skin out jaw and care- 
fully remove skin from head. Do not cut legs open. Remove 
skin from body without further cuts in skin. Be sure and scrape 
all fat off. (See directions for stretching beaver skins on page 
244.) 




nmtt li FOX Stretcher 



J-TRETCHER JEUEP WITH VITHE^ THfRZOW. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 243 

Lightning Method for Skinning Muskrats. 

Cut off front feet and tail with a hatchet, with knife slit from 
hind legs to vent, skin around hind legs, attach a strong cord to 
both legs and pull skin over body. 

Skinning a Bear. 

Some trappers prefer to skin a bear similar to taking of hides 
from cattle. This method is O. K. For the benefit of those not 
familiar the following suggestions will be in time. 

Take knife and slit from hind legs to vent. Then from 
inner part of fore legs to brisket down to center of lower jaw. 
Then open skin by cutting straight over the belly to vent. Re- 
move the skin from head with care. Leave ears, jaw, openings of 
eyes intact. 

Another method resulting in Indian style handled skins, 
is to remove the skins similar to that of beaver, excepting the legs 
should be cut open so as to permit the skin to be stretched in 
proper shape ; bear skins must not be stretched in a round shape 
like the beaver. 

Skinning Deer, Elk and Moose. 

The skin of the above animals should be removed similar to 
cattle, calf and horse hides. The hides should be in like shape 
excepting the head should never be slit open as is the practice 
of butchers in taking off cattle hides. 

Skinning a Wolf. 

To remove a wolf skin from the carcass properly, it is neces- 
sary to follow and use the same methods employed in skinning 
the fox, mink, or other animals whose skins should be cased and 
not cut open on the belly. In western states it is the practice 
to remove the skins by cutting clear across the belly and by fol- 
lowing the method used in skinning bear, and removing cattle 
hides, though not as good as if left cased; the price for the skin 
is about the same. 

Stretching Skins in a Frame. 

The skins from such animals as the bear, beaver, raccoon, 
wolverine, deer and dog can be best stretched in a frame. The 
frame is made out of four pieces. The latter can be scantlings 
or one-inch boards. If these cannot be had, take saplings, which 
make excellent frames. The skins, however, must be green, as 
a part dry skin will not stretch sufficiently. After you have made 
a frame of sufficient size for the skin, take a large sack needle 
and some strong twine and sew by making stitches every one 



244 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

or two inches, each stitch encircHng that particular portion of the 
frame. 

Do not cut off the feet or ears ; that would make holes in the 
skin. If same are cut off, sew such openings together before 
putting skin on stretcher. Some remove all meat and fat before 
stretching, others proceed to scrape after skin is stretched upon 
the frame. One can suit himself, but we believe all surplus meat 
and fat should be removed first, and when skin is on the stretcher, 
finish the work with a dull knife, hardwood stick or spoon. Shape 
skin with your hands before sewing in frame; do not over- 
stretch, but make allowance for the natural shrinkage in process 
of drying. 

Bow Stretchers. 

The use of the bow stretchers is dying out and it is well for 
trappers to discontinue stretching their skins in such a careless 
manner. A few Indian tribes and occasionally a trapper who 
has no tools for making other stretchers, use the bow stretcher, 
but only for muskrat. We recommend the discontinuance of its 
use altogether. 

Hoop Stretchers. 

In sections where beaver are plentiful it is well for the skins 
to be stretched on a hoop made out of a stick of hickory or other 
flexible wood. If a single stick is not long enough, two small 
ones can be spliced together ; tie over-lapping ends together with 
withes. See that the hoop is round, and not too large in size 
for the skin it is intended. 

In skinning rip from center of lip to vent, gradually skin, 
peel and fist around the lips, eyes and ears, continue until you 
have reached legs. Do not rip lengthwise on legs but gradually 
pull them from the skin and cut so as to have smallest possible 
opening when skin is finally stretched. (Some prefer to sew 
leg holes together). When skin is off, begin at the head and 
fasten to hoop with twine or withes inserted about an inch apart 
and continue until entire skin is stretched round and as tightly 
as a drum-head. 

Formerly bears, wolves and raccoons were stretched in this 
way, but of late years beavers are the only skins stretched in 
round shape. 

Skinning and Handling Raccoon Skin. 

"As I have given the main points of my experience in trap- 
ping the raccoon, I will now tell how I skin and stretch the hides. 
If you wish to case the skin, cut the skin around the hind legs 
near the heels, then slit along the back part of legs through the 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

anus from heel to heel. Peel the skin down the legs to the root 
of the tail, pull the bone out of the latter, strip the skin toward the 
head, cutting it loose at the fore feet, and around the mouth 
carefully. Be very careful in skinning the tail for if it is broken 
the sale is injured. Take two small, square edged sticks about 
four or six inches long. Place the bone of the tail between them 
and pull steadily. To case, get a board of length and width to 
suit the size of the skin, the thianer the better. It should not be 
too sharp at the nose nor too broad at the rear. Make it nicely 
rounded at the nose, slip the skin, on with fur inside, pull the nose 
over end of board to lap on chin, tack through both, then pull 
for length, and tack both hind legs and root of tail. 

"To remove skin with intention to leave it flat or open, slit 
hind legs as described above, slit fore legs across the breast from 
foot to foot, then entire length of belly to chin, strip skin from 
hind legs and tail as above ; then strip to head, leaving the ears en- 
tire on skin and cut carefully around mouth and nose. To stretch, 
cut holes near the edge of skin along both sides from hind leg 
to foreleg, across the bottom, and across the top just below the 
ears ; then insert four sticks in the four rows of holes, the length 
depending upon size of hide. The hide should be square or nearly 
so. Place a stick across the middle with the ends swallow forked 
to keep it in. Place another from the root of tail to end of nose. 
I prefer splitting the head to the back of the ears and sewing 
the jaw and foreleg together. This makes a beautiful figure 
The holes should not be more than two or three inches apart and 
all particles of flesh and thin pelt should be stripped off before 
stretching. Hang in the shade to dry with fur to the wall. When 
ready to ship take out all sticks, boards or stretchers, pack the 
skins with two fur sides together and two flesh sides alternately, 
as the flesh might grease the fur and give it an oily feeling. Bale 
or sew up in burlap and they are ready for market. 

M-.^ir -^^ "Opossum and mink are skinned the same as rac- 
Mink and *^ _, . . , , , . 

Opossum coons. Prepare for casmg, and stretch on boards 
as described for cased raccoon. The tail of 
opossum should be cut off, that of mink left on. A slit should be 
made in the end of tails of raccoon, mink, otter, etc., to let out any 
foul matter that may gather in the cavity in warm, foggy weather. 
A perfect skin of a raccoon when ready for market should be 
nearly square. If mink, otter, or opossum, it should be nicely 
rounded at the nose, not too sharp, nor too wide at the tail. If the 
ears are hard and dry it is not a perfect skin. If the tail is hard, 
kinked or crooked, it is not a perfect fur. If blue behind the fore- 
legs or under the chin, it was caught too early. If it has been 
whitened by salt or alum, it is not a perfect fur." O. Pullnow, 



246 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

To Skin the Wild Cat and Red Fox. 

T Sk"n a ^^ sooii as possible after the animal is dead or 

killed, it should be skinned and the skin stretched. 

In warm weather a dead animal will turn black or 

blue on the belly in fourteen hours. The animal should be skinned 

while the warmth is in the body. All skins of animals smaller 

than a bear can be cased more conveniently by the trapper. As 




The Result of Knowing How to Hunt and Trap 

to hoop stretcher and bow stretcher, I do not favor them. A bow 
stretcher can be made in a pinch for such as muskrat. 

''Hang the animal by one leg and commence by cutting down 
inside the hind leg to the vent and up the other leg. Cut around 
the leg above the claws, (I do not leave the hind claws unless for 
special reasons, except the mountain lion), and make a slit up 
the tail a little ways, pulling tail out by the help of a split stick. 
(Tails are worthless on beaver and muskrat, and the tail of the 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 247 

otter should be cut open and spread out). Skin or peel down 
to the forelegs, break off below knee and leave paws in the skin. 
Cut around ears, eyes and mouth and the skin is then ready to 
be put on the stretcher. Always have the fur towards the 
stretcher and the skin part outside. The stretcher should be made 
in the following manner : 

^tretchina "Get a board one-half inch thick, three feet long, 
nine inches wide at the wide end, tapering to about 
four and one-half inches wide at small end, rounded and notched 
out for the head. The illustration (elsewhere in this book) will 
give an idea of how the stretcher will look. I don't use a single- 
piece stretcher unless I have to. 

"By ripping the above stretcher into three pieces and making 
a wedge or three-piece stretcher therefrom, the result will be 
nicely shaped skins which can be removed without danger of tear- 
ing. I take a rip saw and cut from center of stretcher a wedge 
of about one and three-quarters inch to about two inches wide at 
lower part to a point at head of strethcer. This forms a nice 
wedge, and if necessary, this wedge can be run through the 
mouth of the skin in case the animal is a large one, and if smaller, 
it need not be placed clear down. This stretcher is excellent for 
otter, wolf, wild cat, foxes, and if made smaller, for all other ani- 
mals of the weasel ,or marten family. The skin is pulled over the 
stretcher and when fairly tight, drive four nails, two on each side, 
into the skin to hold same firmly, and then take wedge and slowly 
insert until the skin attains its proper size and becomes smooth. 
Then take more nails and fasten skin on rear part of stretcher 
and wedge. 

"Always stretch belly on one side and back on other side of 
stretcher and see that tail is exactly in center of wedge. Before 
putting the skin on stretcher, take a hatchet, sharp stick or 
knife and scrape fat from skin ; when on stretcher smooth out 
with the same tools and remove every bit of grease, wash and 
wipe thoroughly dry, and then hang skin away in a shady place 
for five to ten days. When firmly set, stretcher can be removed. 
Never take stretcher off too early as skins will crumble up and 
get in bad shape. 

"Be careful and not get fat on fur and tail. When skins are 
thoroughly dry and you are ready to ship, pack in burlap and ship,^' 
by express. If skins are only partly dry, they will mildew and 
possibly spoil ; therefore, the skins should be thoroughly dry." 

To Skin "The body should not be frozen, if it is, thaw so 
_ that the outer portion of the body is thoroughly 

thawed out. The fox should be skinned while 
hanging up. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 249 

"Take a small, sharp-pointed, thin-bladed knife and a large 
skinning knife — both should be very sharp. Cut crosswise on 
inside of hoof, leaving claws attached to the skin, then open 
hind legs by inserting small knife between the skin and body 
from claws to vent, following the peculiar furred line indicating 
the innermost portion of leg. Now skin out the legs; use the 
knife to start with and pull to free the skin, in preference to cut- 
ting. Pull skin upwards so as to free the second joints of the foot 
before severing the skin with the claws from the leg at the joint 
indicated above. 

"When legs are freed get spreader or gamber stick and place 
in position through the cords, and hang carcass up. 

"Now skin on belly down about live to seven inches, then 
about the sides and back, leaving the tail portion unmolested 
until you come up from bottom. 

"Now comes the most delicate job. Get an eight or ten-inch 
stick, three-fourth or one inch thick, split in center to about half 
way down. Put the body on the ground. Take split stick and 
place at root of naked tail, then with left hand take body and with 
right hand hold stick, pull steadily and you have skinned the tail. 

"Now hang up again, and pull skin down over belly. Use 
knife as little as possible, and be very careful on belly portion as 
the skin is very tender and you may tear it. 

"When at forelegs, take knife and open about knee and slit 

down to the body; but if one wants the skin of the legs left on 

pull skin with one hand, holding the body, and with your knife 

assist until you come to knee or foot, which dislodge, one leg at 

a time. Then pull the skin down to the head, cut ears close to 

the skull, pull down to the eyes — cut about same way at the nose. 

Always leave ears, eye part, lips and nose on skin. 

e«.--*^i,:-« "This requires little work. Get two thin pieces 
stretching. r i i i i 11 1 i 1 • 

of boards, have them planed smoothly, thmner 

on one side than on the other, also taper from one-half inch to 
three inches. Procure wedge one-sixteenth to one-half inch wide, 
same thickness as other two boards and about as long or longer. 
Some place fur inside and others outside. A nice prime red fox 
looks better if fur is outside. Place skin over stretcher, then take 
wedge and insert, smooth out, nail skin at tail and on belly por- 
tion, and hang up in high, shady place in the barn to dry. In a 
few days remove stretcher, and hang skin up until perfectly dry." 

From G. Halvorson, Arvilla, N. D. 

How to Skin and Stretch Mink Skins. 

Take a small, sharp, thin, narrow-bladed knife, and slit down 
where the fur comes together on the inner part of the leg, from 



250 

Andersch Bros/ Hunters a nd Trappers Guide. 

heel to anus. Now take thumb and forefinger and peel the hide 
off the legs ; take knife and slit from anus to end of tail. With 
your thumb and fingers loosen tailbone from skin. Some only 
open tail one inch from anus and then take two flat, 'notched 
sticks, fitting around the tailbone, which grasp firmly in one hand 
and pull skin off bone with the other. Now proceed to further re- 
move skin from rear legs, scarcely using the knife. Pull skin 
over body, using your thumb and hands. When at fore legs 
continue to use fingers and pull forelegs out. Another pull will 
bring you to the ears when a knife should be used in cutting them 
ofif close to the skull. A slight pull will bring the skin off body 
and the knife should be used for the last time in cutting off the 
nose and trimming around the lips. 

c4.„^t„L,:«^ Stretching mink skins and making them look nice 
stretching. , _ ° , ° , . . 

and fine is more miportant than skmnmg, and, 

in fact, next to trapping the animal itself. Three-piece stretchers 
are used exclusively by me, unless in a pinch I use a one-board 
stretcher with a small wedge on top to take up the slack and to 
assist in removing the skin from the stretcher. The belly and 
back part of the animal should be on opposite sides and exactly 
even. Stretch out legs and ears, but do not tack permanently 
until skin is scraped. 

c^..,^:.,- Take a dull case knife and remove all surplus fat 
and meat. If there is too much meat on a skin, 
it cannot be stretched right. After you have removed surplus 
fat and meat, start to stretch the .skin permanently. 

Use pains in stretching out all parts of the skin, especially 
legs and tail. Take especial pains with the tail so that same is 
stretched, or use coarse, hollow straw, which insert so as to per- 
mit the tail to dry. Now take a dull case-knife and scrape off 
all fat. Don't let fat run on the fur. Wipe it off with a rag. 
If fat has a tendency to run in the grain of the skin, cut close with 
a sharp knife. Having removed all fat take a sponge or woolen 
rag, dampen with water, and proceed to work all grease out of 
the skin. All large filaments, which present a rough and ragged 
appearance should be removed. After skin is cleaned, put in a 
shady place to dry ; never close to a stove, neither pile one skin 
on top of another. If you have occasion to force drying, put 
the skin in a warm room where there is good circulation of air. 

N. C. A. 
Stretching Skins, Flat and Open. 

Begin at the head, nailing at the nose. Stretch lengthwise, 
until fairly tight and tack through the tail. Now place one nail 
through each leg at the foot, but not too tight. Stretch cross- 
wise, placing nails about one inch apart. Be careful not to 



Anderscli Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 251 

over-stretch the hides, as it gives them a thin appearance and 
deducts much from their value. Fred Abbott, 

Method of Skinning Muskrat and Stretching Skin. 

A few remarks on skinning and stretching may not be amiss, 
as on the speed and thoroughness depends much of the trapper's 
success. Make two hooks from stout wire or tenpenny nails, just 
large enough to fit tightly over the smallest point of the musk- 
rat's hind legs. Tie a stout cord to each of the hooks and fasten 
to some object far enough apart so as to have the hooks six inches 
apart when the muskrat is hung up. Now take your knife, 
which should be slim bladed and at least 4 inches long, and in- 
sert it under the skin of hind legs, letting the point of the knife 
come out at root of tail. Give one quick jerk and rip the hide 
the whole length. Insert the knife in the other side of the tail, 
letting it come out at the other hind foot, and repeat the opera- 
tion, but do not cut around the feet, as by so doing one is likely 
to cut the flesh which will come off with the hide and cause in- 
convenience. Take the hide between the thumb and fore-finger 
and pull the skin around the feet. " With some practice this can 
be done quickly and is better than cutting. Pull the skin over 
the body down to the forelegs and pull them out without cutting 
them. On reaching the ears, take knife and cut around eyes, 
ears and nose. 

c*....* u--« Make your stretcher out of thin boards about five 
ttretcning. . , - . , , ,, , 

mches wide and tapermg well to the small end. 

Plane and sandpaper until you have a smooth surface. Use one- 
piece or three-piece stretchers. For fleshing and to remove fat 
and surplus meat, take a large tablespoon and use the bowl for 
scraping off this fat and flesh. By this method there is abso- 
lutely no danger of hurting the skin, or damaging same by cutting, 
as is often the case if a knife is used. The skin is also of smooth 
appearance. Do not let any fat get on the fur. If you do, wipe 
it oft' with clean rag or use dry hardwood sawdust. 

T. GULLICKSON, 

Proper Manner of Skinning Mink and Stretching Skins. 

First cut down the back of hind legs from heel to anus. Now, 
with thumb and fore-finger peel the hide off the legs. Next, 
slit from anus towards the end of the tail one inch ; loosen with 
fingers as before around butt of tail ; then get a couple of flat sticks 
and notch them to fit around the tail bone. Grasp these firmly 
in one hand and pull the skin off the tail. Proceed with the knife 
to carefully remove hide from the hind-quarters. Having cut 
past the navel, you can, with a single pull, rip the hide past the 



252 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



shoulder. Now place your thumb between hide and fore-leg, at 
elbow joint, and pull fore-leg out. Another pull will bring you 
to the ears, where the knife comes into play again. Cut ears at 
the base, close to the skull and proceed to carefully skin to the 
end of the nose. 

Board being of proper length and width, proceed 
to pull hide over same, hair inside, belly on one side 
and back square on the other flat side of the 
board ; not on the edge. If there be much flesh on hide, as some- 
times happens with an old mink, pull hide tight, securely fasten 
with a few small wire nails, putting nails in the end of legs and 



How to 
Stretch. 



MUSK RAT house:. 




one at root of the tail. With a dull case knife scrape oflF the sur- 
plus flesh. This will enable you to stretch properly as a fleshy 
hide will not stretch well. This done, you may pull out the nails 
and proceed to stretch out legs, nailing at edge of board on belly 
side. Have both legs even. Put at least half a dozen nails in 
each skin, so that they will not give way when the hide dries up. 
On the other side, put a nail near the edge of the board, taking 
care to keep the back even as it looks much neater than if long 
(Cornered, and cuts better when it comes to making up. Always 
place your nails near the edge of the hide. If you use a three- 
piece stretcher, shove the wedge as far as it will go, but do not 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Chiide. 253 

use too much force as you may split the hide and ruin it. Now, 
tack the belly and the back, pull the tail straight, and tack on 
the middle piece. In this position, it will dry nicely and not 
kink up as they are sure to do when not nailed. 

My choice, is a flat board stretcher, with two tapering cleats, 
one for the belly and one for the back, the latter being long 
enough to allow the tail to be tacked to it. Put a nail in the 
belly cleat, so as to keep the hide and the cleat in place. Next, 
pull fore-leg up, tie with thread or twine close up to body. With 
a sharp knife cut about three-eighths of an inch above the string, 
press down with the finger, having care to turn hair out, forming 
a sort of rosette. 

Now put away in a warm room, but not near the stove. 
After 8 or lo hours, or when half-dry, it is ready to clean and 
polish. Use a dull case knife, scrape gently, and the fat will 
readily come off. If any filaments have a tendency to run into 
the grain of the skin, cut close with a sharp knife. Having re- 
moved all fat, we are ready for the finishing touch or polish. 
Dampen a small sponge or woolen rag, don't soak, and rub all 
over the hide. This will lay low all the fleshy filaments which 
give such a ragged appearance to a skin, and will give it a neat 
and glossy appearance such as I have never been able to obtain 
by any other process. Now put away to dry, but keep away 
from the fire. Let it dry thoroughly, before taking off the 
board, as a partly-dried hide will shrink, consequently decreasing 
in value. When dry, always hang (don't pile up) in a dry, cool 
place, where mice cannot get at them. A good way is to hang 
them to the ceiling with a string. J. A. Despardins. 

To Stretch a Mink Skin. 

To stretch a mink skin on a three-piece or wedge stretcher, 
take the skin, which should be green and clean, and insert the 
two sword shaped pieces with the smaller ends toward the nose. 
To prevent nose from slipping off ends, drive a tack or small nail 
in each end of the board. Always have flesh part of the skin 
on the outside and the fur part next to the stretcher. 

Now pull skin up as far as possible. Be sure tail is in center, 
drive two tacks, one on each side to hold skin up, then insert 
center piece (wedge) between the two side stretchers, shove 
wedge down Tmtil skin is the required shape and all parts proper- 
ly stretched. 

Use ordinary judgment and care and be sure not to over- 
stretch the skin. Drive tack through tail in wedge. This com- 
pletes the stretching. A medium sized northern or north-west- 
ern mink skin (not including tail) stretched in this way should 
be twenty to twenty-two inches long, three and one-half to four 



254 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

inches wide on bottom and gradually tapering down to the nose. 
How to Make Mink Stretchers. 

Take two pieces of pine wood about thirty inches long, one 
and one-half inches wide and five-eighths to three-fourths inches 
thick. Taper edges from one end so as to be about three-fourths 
inches wide when about two inches from the other end. This 
again taper to one-third inch to the extreme end. 

When this is done plane off from the sides so as to leave the 
pieces in a sword-like shape. The thickest portion when finished 
should be 7-16 to 9-16 of an inch on the edge while the other end 
about 3-16 of an inch and also tapering to a point more ab- 
ruptly when about two inches from the end. Sandpaper and 
smooth the thin edge, also sides. Then take a piece of wood thirty 
inches long, the same thickness as the thickest part of the side 
pieces, about one and one-half inches to two inches wide and 
taper so as to make a wedge of about one and one-half to two 
inches on one end to about one-fourth or three-eights of an inch 
on the other end. This completes the so-called mink stretcher. 

HOW TO SKIN A HEAD THAT IS TO BE MOUNTED. 

Many trappers often kill horned game, also fur bearing ani- 
mals which they desire mounted, but in skinning invariably spoil 
the skin for the purpose intended. Even when skins are not de- 
sired to be mounted by the hunter, it is well to skin animal, hav- 
ing in view that someone else may want the skin mounted, in 
consequence thereof the value of the skin is increased. This 
is especially true in skinning the wolverene, mountain lion and 
cougar, also in removing the skin from horned game, such as 
deer, elk, moose, antelope, mountain sheep and mountain goat. 
In removing the skin of the latter, it is necessary to cut from the 
base of one horn to that of another and from center between the 
horns down the back of neck to the shoulder; this forms a cut 
resembling a "T," and the only one necessary. Never cut the 
skin open from the lip running along the neck to the breast as 
that spoils it for taxidermist purposes, and even if it does not, 
no taxidermist can make a good job therefrom. Great care 
should be taken in skinning about the eyes, and be sure and leave 
on all parts of the lip ; special care should be exercised about the 
corners of the mouth and eyes. Leave considerable of the gristle 
of the nose attached to skin. If you can, turn the ears inside out. 
All surplus fat should be removed and the skin immediately 
salted. If this cannot be done, hang in a shady place to dry. 
All parts should be stretched so as to be exposed to the air; 
otherwise that portion lying next to another will become tainted. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 255 

Horns, in fact, the entire skull, should be saved and these, if good 
sized and well formed have always a commercial value. 
ADDITIONAL REVENUE FOR TRAPPERS. 

It is well known that the large beef and pork packers in the 
operation of their plants, utilize every part of the animal. There 
is no waste or offal that is not turned into account ; even the 
manure in the pouch of the animal is sold ; in fact, everything 
is utilized excepting a "stray kick" or the "squeal" of a pig. 
Hair, blood, ears, tail, sinews, toes, horns, intestines, hoofs, etc., 
all find their way to market and bring good prices. All of these 
articles, as well as the flesh and bodies of fur bearing ani- 
mals, could be utilized, if concentrated, as is done by the packers. 
Alas ! it is impossible. Therefore the trapper must be satis- 
fied in saving as many parts of the body as possible, and for which 
he can find a market. 

... It is well known amongst old trappers that the 

Indians used dried intestines in sewing and patch- 
ing their clothing as well as in the preparation of their furs. 
These were also used in the manufacture of ropes, lariats and 
snares, and particularly in making bow strings. Of late years, 
intestines, after they are cleansed and partly dried are used for 
musical strings. 

Bear G II These have a commercial value, bringing from 

$3.00 to $5.00 per pound. Prevent leakage by 

tying the ends with a string and hang up to dry in a shady place ; 

when dry, market. We have a demand for these. If you have 

any, write us. 

Beaver Ca - These have been saved for the last 50 or 100 
. . years. There is a commercial demand for them 

and of late years the demand is greater than the 
supply. These castors are found in both the male and the fe- 
male beaver. The contents are of a deep orange color when dry. 
Hang up in a shady place and when dry, market. The oil bags 
that are immediately attached to the beaver castors have no com- 
mercial value. Trappers, however, use them in the manufacture 
of decoy. 

Sk nk Gi d ^'^^ perfume out of these glands, as predic- 
ted by certain naturalists and scientists, will 
soon have a market value. If the contents of the containers or 
glands, are squeezed into a bottle, there is little danger of having 
the fluid distributed over the operator. This should be done in 
the open air ; keep the bottle corked up. We expect a demand 
for this article. 

Sku k 0"l formerly there was a good demand for this oil, 
but of late years manufacturers have used other 



By ^. W. ^ffATrUCM'. ff&^uc , N. V. 

-Natural wa/k, even register, no hops or jumpi , every step registered J8 to 20 inches .. 

^^©^^^^ ^^^^^© 

Track of a Buck , normal walk, even register, ratiier s/ow progress, 15 toJdinches apart. 
■^ -^ 

•^ :^ :^ ■•' ■«' :£ 

Easy iope 10 to J^ feet , ground fairly fevel. 



.A good gait 10 to 16 feet . . 



-Going at his best , bad/y frightened , or slightjy wounded . ■ 



Wa/k of a wounded deer, uneven register, wounded in hip or shouider. 



JNounded in hip or shoulder but not broken , leaps average 6 feet . - 

~;^Z- -.«?— ■;**^::: -«^'- ^.,m^... "^,^~ 

- Trail of deer, tracks indicate slight drag in snow of 6 to 8 /nchei . 



■ Trail indicates deer Jias his right hind le^ broken . 



.Trail indicates that the deer has his foreleg broken rather /ow down . 



Trail indicates that deer is shot just back ofsAouIden wiffsoonhe down if not loo closely followed . 

>^=- '^ i^* .*>■ 

"^^ -^^ 1^ \c 

-■^^ ^^ -V -•«=» ^^ 

j^» j^^ ■.^>- -^^ \^gr 

•-\^^ '\m^ *,«^ 

Trail indicates that deer is shot low down in shoulder, bone broken or badly fractured. 



Trail indicates that animal is shot through the intestines and liver, bullet probably 
entered side slanh'ngly , passing through body, out near shoulder. Shortlived. 



Badly wounded internally, will soon be found fyiag down ■ — 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 257 

oils which are much cheaper and always obtainable, therefore the 
demand and use of skunk oil has become less and less every year. 
Of late years the surplus has been sold at prices comparing 
with aged lard or tallow. 

■^^^ ^^^^ ^^^ medicinal and manufacturing 
purposes. Save them, and when you have a 
quantity, write us. 

The bags obtained from muskrats are salable, 
some years the demand is so great that the sup- 
ply is exhausted and used up before half the summer is over. 
Handle them the same as you would beaver castors. 

, -, The claws of bear, mountain lion and other 

Animal Claws. - . . , ' i ^ i td 

ferocious animals have a market value. By 

no means should they be removed from the skin ; if animals of 
this kind are killed during the summer months when the skin is 
of no value, they should be cut ofif, cleaned, and marketed. 

T th Certain teeth of this animal are in very good 
demand and persons having any can dispose of 
them by communicating with members of the "Elk Lodge." 

A ready demand for skulls exists. Trappers should 
save them.. If skulls are saved, remove meat by 
boiling head in water. All fat and meat must be eliminated. The 
skulls from bear, .mountain lion, lynx, wild cat, cougar, and oc- 
casionally those of the smaller carnivorants are wanted by taxi- 
dermists, naturalists, and others. Skulls with horns from elk, 
moose, deer, mountain sheep, mountain goat and smaller ani- 
mals are salable, but buyers insist that the skin should accom- 
pany the skulls. Thousands of artificial skulls are annually 
used, while the natural ones go to decay. 

TO STILL HUNT OR STALK A DEER. 

An old buck is very wary, cunning or frail, as the case may 
be. If he is followed by one or more hounds, he runs at the first 
yelp making over hills and down to the brook in which he plunges 
and goes down stream for a mile or more, until he feels it is safe 
to go on shore. He listens : no dogs within hearing ; he walks up 
on a knoll away from the brook, so he can hear better, but 
listening for some time. He finally decides that everything is 
all right, the dogs are off the trail, and he walks upon the ridge 
takes a bite and lies down to rest, seeking a position that may 
be as safe as possible. He looks up the hill, notes that the wind 
is blowing sideways of the mountain ; he goes up wind for half a 
mile then tacks down wind for forty or fifty rods, then tacks 
back up the hill a few rods higher, then back a little higher up, 
then with the wind and up the hill and stops and looks all around. 



258 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Now, if there is a hunter out looking for deer he is going 
along that acorn ridge, knowing they are fond of acorns, and as 
he comes to this track he looks it over; he knows that it is an 
old buck for the tracks are large and the toe is round up: the 
bucks do more travelling than the doe and on rocky gravel their 
toes become rounded. He finds where he left the ridge ; he takes 
the trail and follows at a lively walk all the way until he finds 




We Were Seven 



Nat. Sportsman 



Courtesy of 

where the deer tacked ; from there he goes slowly, and at the next 
tack slower. Finally when he goes down wind he turns off and 
takes a large circle up the mountain, coming down very carefully 
and slowly, his eyes taking in every inch of ground as fast as it 
comes into view; working along the edge of every ledge that 
affords a lookout, moving very slowly, no quick motions or noise, 
no breaking of s'ticks ; if he does he stops short, looks in every 
direction. He knows if the deer heard the noise he would get up 
at once and stand till he saw something move. He goes on 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 259 

down the ravine and up the next raise to the top of ridge, coming 
up purposely behind a large tree standing on top of ridge, keep- 
ing as low down as possible until he reaches the tree, then raises 
himself up full height against the tree and very slowly looks 
around. After looking the ground all over he says to himself, 
"That buck is in that little thicket, I believe." He gives a low 
whistle and looks short. In an instant the old fellow comes on 
to his feet and looks straight at him. The hunter was prepared 
beforehand, his gun was in line and ready; now for the point of 
his shoulder just in front where all the muscles from the neck 
come together. The gun cracks, the buck drops but is not 
dead. He throws up his head, 'but is unable to get up. The 
hunter goes down and setting his gun against a tree takes out 
his hunting knife, steps one foot over his neck and front of his 
forelegs and with his left hand takes hold of a horn and with his 
right hand he drives the knife in to that little curve just above the 
brisket and the job is done. The deer is dead in a few moments, 
— now to hang him up. 

He rolls the deer on to his back, and makes an opening from 
the point of breast bone, cutting away the mid-ribs and removing 
heart, liver and lungs. He now takes the liver in his hand and 
makes two cuts across it ; from two to four live blood suckers 
fall out ; there is no gall here to cut away. Now this is not 
known to all the hunters of the world, but nine out of ten deer 
have them. 

Now to hang up this deer ; he is a big one — 250 pounds. He 
cuts a pole with his axe (always carried by a good hunter). 
This pole is straight and 12 feet long; he lays it along the deer's 
belly between his legs. Then he cuts a stick about 2^/2 feet long, 
13^ inches in diameter, cuts a hole through and puts the stick 
through both legs and over the pole ; he cuts a notch in pole to 
keep it from slipping ; then he cuts two crotches about 9 feet 
long, he sets them up to end of pole just behind the deer and 
then lifts the pole and crotches up till the lower end of crotches 
catch ; then he sets first one and then the other up a little at a 
time till the deer hangs as high as is desired. He then goes to 
the nearest water, or if not near any, snow will do, and washes 
his hands. He then fills his pipe, he could not smoke while after 
that deer, He then looks at the compass that is set in his gun 
stock, gets his bearings, and marks the farther side of a few 
trees so he can see the marks coming back and he goes home to 
tell the boys what a big buck hangs out on the side of old 
Tremble Mountain. 

J. W. Shattuck. 

Hague, N. Y. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 261 

TRAPPING THE WEASEL 

As soon as the snow is on the ground and the weather 
sufficiently cold, take as many *0' traps as you have or can carry, 
and having a hatchet, go to the woods and locate the runways 
or some abode that the weasel frequents. If you find such abode, 
set one or more traps in the immediate vicinity or therein. 
Place cotton or wool underneath the pan and see that the pan 
works very easily. Cover trap with rotten wood, etc. If you 
are unable to find a hole, endeavor to kill a rabbit. If you 
are successful, take a knife and strike the animal in the neck 
so as to bleed slowly. Now walk along dragging the animal 
behind; when you come to a convenient locality, set your trap, 
permitting the rabbit's blood to drop in the vicinity ; if advisable 
hang a small piece of the rabbit above the trap. Proceed until 
all the traps are used up. 

N. C. A. 

Trapping the Weasel. 

A few years ago I never bothered to skin a white weasel, 
because the skin was usually worth only five or ten cents, but of 
late years I have devoted as much time to weasel trapping as 
to mink and skunk. I use No. i traps which I set close to the 
trunk of a tree. On the latter I suspend my bait eight to ten 
inches from the ground so that the weasel will be able to reach it 
when standing on his hind legs. The meat is securely fastened 
to the tree, which forces the weasel to jump around. 

One funny experience I had last winter : I saw a weasel 
run into a hollow tree. The opening was no more than a good 
sized knot hole. I thought to myself "Ah, ha, Mr. Weasel, 
I've got you." I immediat«ly went to work, took my hatchet 
and made a large excavation and stapled the trap with the pan 
facing the knot hole to the tree. I was careful so as to give plenty 
of room for the jaws to close. The next morning when I came the 
trap had a firm hold of Mr. Weasel's head ; in fact the bones were 
considerably bruised after I had taken ofif the skin. 

F. C. Marsh. 
TRAPPING THE MINK. 

Mr. Leuhrs, an Illinois trapper, writes as follows : "To 
become a successful mink trapper it is absolutely necessary that 
one study the habits and thoroughly acquaint himself with the 
locality, otherwise he will not make a success. I have no par- 
ticular secrets, but have been successful and have trapped from 
the Gulf of Mexico to the northern part of Canada. Last year 
I caught 121 mink from the 4th of Nov. 1905, to 20th of Jan. 1906, 



262 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

and all within thirty or forty miles of Chicago. The rules that 
I follow in trapping mink are as follows : 

"When going over strange ground upon which I intend to 
trap I study the watery shores of the lakes, streams, swamps 
and creeks for their natural haunts. I take special notice of their 
runs, paths, dens, feeding places and dung heaps and make it 
a point never to disturb them. When placing my traps always 
disturb as little as possible and approach the place by way of 
water. Then I set my traps always level with the ground and 
if possible a little deeper, especially if the surrounding soil per- 
mits this. I excavate an opening the size of the trap which I 
pad out with leaves or similar rubbish, then place the trap there- 
in. If a water set is preferred the trap must be even with the 
ground about one-half to two inches below the level of the water. 
Some soft substance must be placed below the pan, otherwise 
sand will fill in and the trap will not be sprung. In water sets 
I prefer the sliding or spring pole or wire. When making a 
dry land set I cover trap with fine leaves or other material that 
I happen to find in the locality. Occasionally I use tip-ups. 
My three best mink sets are as follows : 

Set No. I. Dig up nice, loose ground along the bank of 
a lake or running water so that it looks as though some animal 
had started to dig a den, the pile being large enough to hold 
a No. i^ Newhouse or No. 2 B. & L. trap. I place cotton 
or wool, or the hair of rabbits under the pan ; never pack it under 
but place loosely under the pan. Of course before setting the 
trap I make an opening of the required size on top of pile and 
then when trap is set, smooth off the pile and cover trap with 
earth, etc. No bait is required. 

Set. No. 2. I find a spring or open running water. I place 
the traps so that they are covered by water about two 
inches. For bait I take three or four little fish (shiners or 
perch will do), which I fasten with wire to the pan, being careful 
not to kill them. At other times I use frog or crab. The mink 
will naturally go after the live bait and in so doing becomes a 
victim. Bear in mind that a raccoon, fox or otter may spring 
the trap, conseqently a strong trap is recommended. 

Set No. 3. When the creeks are all frozen over with ice, 
take your hatchet or axe and chop a hole about four inches wide 
clear across the creek, then take some stakes, drive them about an 
inch apart from one side to the other. In the center leave an 
opening of sufficient size permitting the mink to pass through. 
If the water is too deep, fill up partly with grass, stones or mud. 
I use three traps in this set. Have often had three minks. 1 
set one on each end and one in the middle. These stakes must 



/ 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 263 

be long enough to reach out of the ice. The bait I use is fish, 
birds, squirrels, rabbit, muskrat, etc. Bait however, is unneces- 
sary. If used, I always place it in a natural position and always 
so that the animal in order to reach it must pass over the trap. 

Trapping the Mink. 

"I will write you my method of trapping the mink, during 
the rutting season, which you may use in your Trapper's Guide," 
writes Mr. W. Snow of Boscobel, Wis. 

"During the early winter, mink should be trapped by setting 
the traps in their runways and holes, or by making a hole at 
the edge of the water where their tracks are seen. For bait 
nothing is better than the head and forepart of the fresh musk- 
rat or a fresh fish. It should be fastened in the back part of 
the hole, by running a forked stick through, and the trap set 
at the entrance so the pan of trap is about one-half inch under 
water. If the chain is then fastened to a sliding pole the mink 
will be drowned and in good condition. In case their holes near 
water cannot be found, make an artificial abode with stones, 
roots of trees, bark, logs, earth, etc., on the shore. The rust 
and smell of iron should be removed from the traps, first by 
greasing, and burning off the grease in a blaze, being careful 
not to overheat the springs, and then boiling them in a kettle 
of water and hemlock or willow bark. Place bait in hole or 
hollow log as before, and make a place with your hatchet to 
set a No. i Newhouse trap so the jaws will be about level with 
the ground. Cover all up, being careful to put very fine material 
around the jaws so the trap will spring. 

"Take all the musk from the mink you catch this way and 
save it until the last part of winter, during the rutting or mat- 
ing season. The musk is found in small bags near the tail of 
minks. Put bag and all in a small bottle and cork tightly. 
Then if there is a mild spell late in January or in February, 
take a clean trap and tie a piece of muskrat skin or half rotten 
wood to the pan of trap and put on it a few drops of mink musk. 
Go to a marsh where there are a lot of muskrat houses. By 
this time of year the mink will have holes in some of their 
houses, or find a runway in a log or along the edge of the 
marsh. Dig out a little place with your hatchet to set the trap 
in and cover spring and chain completely. The best thing to 
cover with is the moss, plants and stuff from the inside of a 
muskrat house as they like the smell of this stuff and it covers 
up the smell of iron if there is much left on the trap. Place 
a few large leaves over the jaws and pan. If a mink comes 
anywhere near he is sure to smell the musk and be crazy to 
get at it, and while scratching away the leaves is pretty sure to 



HOLLOW LOG with 2 STEEL TRAPS NOUSED. 

Protect,! traps from weatfier and iniifes 

the Tijnk to enter lotf. 



rHrfK,I^ARTEN or WEASEL TRAP. 
2 inch hole, "f horse shoenai/s . Use bait. 




'' JTEEL TRAP SET FOR LYTiX , 



MUSKfiAT TPAP. 
6inl( water ti0f)t barrel on ecf(fe of Lake where 
their bouses are numerous, so as to protrude 3 to4 

mches above water Jeyef. Arrange two Sinch tiles ,, , , , ^ , ^ m- i. re 

also trap doors as per jllustration . Bwt with Parsnips, /•Jf <^ ^'f° ^or /Garten and /link ; iffor 
Potatoes, a/so chunk o/musArat meat . The lluskrat ^ % ' -^ ^^^ 

or/fink,on stepping upon drop door, tumbles into barrel. •>'na//er. 
Coyer tiles and barret with branches. , _ ^ 3«- 




S//A/?Eahd L/FTASPAnCet^E/tr. "^-^j^^ 
Good for P//r}J{, /Garten andPacco op, ■* i^ 
l/se bait. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 265 

get a foot in the trap. Fasten the chain to a pole (not very 
heavy) about three or four feet from one end. This will prevent 
him from going under the ice; after he has pulled it a ways 
it will get tangled up in brush and he will be too weak to pull 
out." 

Trapping the Mink. 

One making mink trapping a speciality writes as follows : 

"To be a successful mink trapper it is necessary to study the 
mink and his habits." 

"i. Mink follow streams, along lake shores, are found in 
holes, excavations, dens, crevices, and in or about muskrat 
houses." 

"2. Set your trap, No. i or No. 2 steel trap, in or about 
above mentioned abodes, and use chicken, rabbit or any other 
good bait, either scented or natural ; place beyond the trap 
in the hole, also put above the trap. The animal will go in 
after the bait and becomes caught. 

"3. Take the captured mink (be sure he is dead) and use 
him as a decoy. With left hand take body about upper part 
of hind legs, and with your right hand pull tail back and squeeze 
with left hand, and allow drippings to fall about trap set, also 
rub hind part within abode. This will make a strong scent, 
and other minks will readily enter hole believing that one 
is inside, also drag mink on ground from one trap to another. 

"4. Use fine grass in covering up the trap, and always 
place cotton, dry leaves, and similar soft substances under the 
pan ; cover lightly. 

Trapping the Mink. 

My experience in trapping dates back to 1857. During this 
period I must have trapped thousands of mink and large num- 
bers of foxes, trapped and killed bears, mountain lions, and in my 
time have seen plenty of buffalo and other large game. To be suc- 
cessful, I have always studied the habits of the animal. Steel 
traps in my time were not plentiful, and I was obliged to resort 
to home-made contrivances very often. 

Some years ago, notwithstanding my long experience, I was 
unable to catch a certain mink. I tried all methods, set the 
steel trap up-side down, used snares, deadfalls, but all to no 
avail. I gave it up for the time being, and my son tried his 
hand with the same result. He finally made a box 14x16x22 
with glass on two sides ; into this box was placed a live chicken, 
and after the first slight snow, the box, chicken and all was 
carried to the place that the mink frequented almost every day. 
The traps had been set quite a number of days before, one 



266 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



securely fastened to a spring pole, the other to a drag. The 
box was set between the two traps and a quantity of loose brush 
thrown over it so as to make it look natural. The s'ame day 
it snowed considerably. 

One of us visited the box every day. Tracks were seen 
the second day, but the mink did not attempt to get the chicken 
or neared the concealed traps, but seemed to walk in a circle 
about the box. Next day, however, much to our surprise Mr. 
Mink was hanging five feet in the air. It was a large male 
mink and at one time must have been nipped in a steel trap. 
The skin was sold for $4.00. 




HOLLOW LOG STEEL TRAP SET. 

When the trapper observes mink, marten, fisher, opossum or similar 
animals to frequent hollow logs, the entrance of wliich is two to five feet 
above the ground, an arrangement as above illustrated is strictly proper. 
The steel trap should be covered with moss, leaves or grass. Place bait at 
or about opening. 

Supposing some trapper who has had the same kind of ill 
luck try this method. R. B. A. 

Trapping the Mink. 

Mr. Frank Becht, of Webster, S. Dak., sends a few of 
his ways of catching mink. 

"As I use the Stop Thief Wire Trap, I make a hole in bank 
of creek or stream, three or four inches deep, and place a small 
bird in back end of it for bait, and then put trap over hole; but 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 267 

if trapping in common sloughs where the mink's holes can be 
easily found, place your trap over hole in such a way that the 
trigger or trip of trap will be close to the bottom of hole. Then 
place a bunch of feathers about four inches away from trap 
saturated with decoy or beaver's oil, and oil of amber for bait. 
If a common spring trap is used, make a stick about sixteen 
inches high, place a roasted chicken on top of stick, and set your 
trap below. The roasted chicken attracts the mink, and when 
there he will walk about, sniffing up towards the bait, and be 
sure to step in the trap." 

Trapping the Mink. 

My favorite way of capturing mink, writes A^r. Patrick 
Laughrey, West Broughton, Canada, is to drive a row of old 
sticks across the mouth of a small stream, leaving a small gap 
at center, in which gap I set my trap. I use No. i B. & L. 
which I set about one inch below the level of the water. Trap 
should be covered in the usual way. 

I have also been very successful in setting my traps along a 
small stream where the bank is steep. I set my trap close to 
the water edge on one side with a level beach on the other side. 
I make a little wall of stones so that the end reaches the water. 
The trap is placed at the edge of the wall below the level of the 
water and should a mink come along he will invariably pass 
by the edge of the wall and of course becomes a victim. I use 
no bait or scent. The trap is covered. Caught seventeen mink 
this season. 

Trapping the Mink. 

Have had much success in trapping mink on my farm and 
in its vicinity, and on one occasion caught a wolf. My method 
is as follows : "1 take a dead chicken or any large piece of meat, 
whether old or fresh makes no difference. Bury this in the 
ground so that part of it protrudes and upon this set your trap. 
If you can spare more than one trap, set these about six to 
eight inches from the meat. The traps are to be buried and 
covered up. Be sure and put some wool under the pan. The 
animal in locating the meat will naturally become caught. 

N. C. A. 
Trapping the Mink. 

Mr. Lauersdorf, a Wisconsin trapper, writes as follows : 
"Take a skinned muskrat, tie a string about five feet long to it 
and drag it along on the ground where mink are known to run, 
and when you find a good place to set the trap, hang it on three 
stakes driven into the ground and extending six to eight inches 



268 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

above the ground ; place your trap underneath. The mink, upon 
finding the track, will shortly follow it, and when it comes to 
the muskrat will spring the trap and become caught. 

At other times a trap can be placed about two inches under 
water along shores that mink frequent. My method of making 
decoy is as follows : I procure small fish or minnows, which I 
cut up into small pieces and place them in a wide necked bottle 
and with them about one-fourth to one-third angle worms. When 
bottle is three-quarters full, fill remainder with rain water. Cork 
up and expose bottle to the sun. When rancid, decoy is ready to 
use. Put a few drops of the above decoy on the bait or above 
the trap. Mink, marten, muskrat and coon are attracted by this 
decov. 




DEADFALL. 

Another simple arrangement. Bait with a rabbit, dead fowl, or piece 
of muskrat. Bait should be fastened to the ground so as to detain the 
victim. To spring the trap the animal must either step on the spindle or 
press it down with his belly on entering the enclosure. Suitable for all 
classes of animals, especially the badger, skunk, wolf, fox, etc. A steel 
trap set in front of entrance makes the visitor's capture doubly sure. 



Ascertain a den where a mink frequents and set your trap at 
the opening, concealing it in the usual way. A piece of muskrat 
or some other bait thrown carelessly in the opening ten to twelve 
inches, is sufficient bait. Should the animal pass that vicinity the 
bait will attract him, especially if he be a strange animal, and in 
passing into the abode to obtain the bait, will spring the trap. If 
the abode is inhabited, the mink in departing is likely to spring the 
trap, as well as the one entering." 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 269 

Trapping the Mink. 

This interesting article we received from Mr. T. Wolfe, an 
Iowa trapper living at Tabor. 

"Perhaps this most valuable little fur animal found in most 
sections of the U. S. and to the far north in British possessions, 
frequenting lakes, streams and small rivulets, has puzzled more 
trappers than are willing to admit because of its keen scent and 
extremely cautious nature. I think I can say, who should not 
say it, that I have been fairly successful in trapping for mink, 
having caught as high as $436.00 worth in a single week, making 
trapping remunerative as well as a pleasure. Much has been 
said about the kind of bait, scent, etc., to be used. The best bait 
is fish, muskrat, sapsucker, prairie chicken and quail. When a 
mink will not pay attention to any of these it is evident that it is 
not hungry. Many so-called scents serve only to frighten the 
mink away. I once caught $436.00 worth in a week, and they 
were not plentiful to speak of either, but did it by diligence and 
caution. 

"Never set a trap for mink that has the scent of other animals 
on it, for that will at once arouse their suspicion. If you are 
trapping on a stream, it may sometimes become necessary to set 
in the water, although this is objectionable, for the mink in 
trying to release himself, is apt to cover his fur with mud and if 
cased in this condition is most likely to grade as damaged fur. 
The proper thing to do in a case of this kind is to carry the mink 
to camp, get a basin of warm water and thoroughly wash and 
dry the fur before casing. 

"When minks frequent lakes, if there are rushes and rat 
houses, go along the borders where they are most likely to travel 
and select a rat house well surrounded by flags and rushes, care- 
fully cut a place in the edge of the house for a trap, then 
place the bait first so the mink will have to go over the trap to 
reach it. Always turn the spring of the trap toward the bait 
or in such a manner that the mink will not be standing over the 
spring of the trap when it throws as the springs are apt to throw 
its feet out of the jaws of the trap. 

"A friend of mine once trapped for a large mink, which fre- 
quented a slough, the surrounding country being flat and more 
or less marshy. Not being able to catch it he turned it over to 
me and it was with some misgiving I undertook the job as I 
knew him to be quite apt ; but selecting a few good traps, I went 
up the slough one morning after a fresh fall of snow. I found 
the mink had been out in much evidence; following the tracks 
up I soon came to where the mink had struck across the bottom ; 
still following I soon came to where he went into a hole that 



270 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



apparently went straight down. Selecting a good strong trap 
and carefully clearing away the frost and snow, I placed the trap 
upside down over the hole, taking care to have the pan of the 
trap exactly over the hole. Next morning I had a very valuable 
mink. I have caught quite a number of minks in this way. 

"Minks like to follow old fence rows that border the banks 
of lakes and sloughs, making it easy to take them by setting a 
trap by a fence post and tacking the bait to the post just 
above the trap. This rule will hold good along the banks of 
wooded streams where the trap can be fastened to small saplings 
or trees, or to a toggle. Every sucecssful trapper should carry 
a good hatchet and wire staples as there is nothing better than 
wire staples to fasten to a toggle or other convenient things." 




DEADFALL. 

A peculiar yet successful arrangement in capturing various animals 
from the little weasel to the black bear. This deadfall is continually useJ 
by trappers, especially throughout Canada, chiefly in timber sections. 



Trapping the Mink. 

I find the mink a rather shy animal, but have never had any 
great trouble in catching him. One of my ways is to set my 
traps in old muskrat volts, pinning my bait down and well back 
in the hole with a sharp stick, using for bait rabbit, bird, and fish. 
Always have your bait fresh and clean. I also find the outlet of 
tiled drainage, which' seems a splendid place to catch both mink 
and skunk, always making a neat, careful set close up to the tile, 
and if an extra large one, set well up in the tile without bait. 

Another plan I find very good is to go to old field road bridges 
that are down low to the water and take up one of the planks. 
Set your trap in two inches of water. Leave a small nail in one 
of the stringers and hang your bait with a string directly over 
your trap, and six inches above it. Also you will find under the 
roots of large trees that have been partly washed out, a good 
place to set traps with bait. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



271 



The mink is a great traveler and hunter and he frequents every 
nook and corner and if you keep all these places well occupied by 
careful, neat set traps, you will have your share of success. You 
will find a great many of these plans to be good and successful 
ones. Also you will learn some of your best plans by careful study 
and practical experience, the same as in all other business. You 
have to adapt your plans to suit the country you trap in, such 
as a prairie trapper, or a timber, or mountain trapper. 

Charles Sessions, 

Clinton, 111. 



Deadfall 
Trigger. 



I give you herewith my method of making a 
trigger for the deadfall. This trigger I believe to 
be entirely new to the outside world, although it 
lias been in use a good many years by two old Canadian trappers 




who were the originators. I got this trigger from one of the 
trappers and have tested it thoroughly on mink, marten, etc., and 
find it so far ahead of any other that I use it entirely. 

Some animals go into a pen for nothing else than to smell 
the bait or to investigate. This trap catches these fellows, where- 
as the other triggers do not. The pen of this trap wants to be 
short so that the animal cannot get in too far. The bait should 
be stuck or hung up on back of pen, say six inches high, for 
mink, marten, etc. The animal never fails to step or rub against 
trigger in reaching up to smell bait. Always keep the guides a 
distance from the trigger to prevent jamming, or use one set of 
guides. The treadle also wants to be slightly turned in pen. 

Ralph Wolverton. 

Cascade, B. C. 
Trapping the Mink. 

To capture mink, I follow the banks of streams where the 
water nears a bank two or three feet high. I then dig a hole in 



272 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

the bank a foot wide and two feet deep. Then proceed to build 
a sort of wharf out of stones. Some of the dirt I place on top 
of the bank and when my sets are complete I take handfuls of 
the dirt and strew over the setting so as to eradicate the foot- 
prints and to make everything seem fresh. The bait is placed 
within the abode, excepting small pieces are carefully strewn close 
to the water which has a tendency to attract the animal. The 
trap is placed a few inches within the abode, the pan facing the 
stream. There is no harm in dragging the bait in the immediate 
vicinity, finally leading it into the hole. The trap should be 
securely covered with rotten wood and lastly with fine earth. 

For scent I use fish oil made by me during the summer time 
from minnows, shiners and perch. If in position to obtain a 
female mink during the running season, the matrix of the animal 
is placed in a bottle, either separate or with the fish oil. Have 
had good success. As much as possible I use spring poles, but 
if the weather is mild I arrange to fix up some way to drown the 
animal. N. C. A. 

Trapping the Mink. 

"Many years have now past but I still remember one February 
morning at three o'clock my father yelled — "Roll out Son, if 
you want to go the round with me this morning." A snow storm 
was in full bloom. After a hasty breakfast of corn bread, veni- 
son and black cofifee, we both swung out on the trail. Father 
was trapping for mink and promised to take me along. This 
was mating season and about one mile up stream, close to a pond 
where a small stream emptied into the Tygart we came to a small 
hollow log and in this log was a female mink. On the outside 
father had set three Newhouse traps and two of them were 
sprung each holding a male mink. Farther up the trap line we 
came to a hollow tree. Inside this father had imprisoned an- 
other female mink. He had set five traps on the outside and 
three of them were sprung, each holding a large male mink ; five 
minks in less than two miles trapping. I was small then but I 
learned a secret that morning that easily knocks out any method 
known to the trapping world. Brother Trapper you can readily 
understand why these minks were imprisoned. The next thing 
is how to catch the female mink, alive and unharmed. 

Get four boards six inches wide and nail them together 
forming a long box. In one end make a trap door by inserting 
piece of board nine inches long ; fasten the end of the board with 
leather hinges, thus you have a door that inclines toward the 
center of box. Take a stick the size of a pencil two inches long, 
and set upright. Now you have the door set. If you have already 
located den — which every old trapper knows is easily done by 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



273 



certain signs — insert the trap with door raised about one foot 
into the hole. If you cannot find such a den, make one, into 
which after placing the box, close up all other openings and see 
that box is solid. Let swing door rest on pencil. No bait is 
necessary. The female mink will enter in order to hide from 
the male and you have your mink as sure as shooting. 

You will ask : "Why can't we catch the male mink by this 
method?" Simply because the male mink is rarely, if ever, in 
their home dens at this season as they are travelling and seek 
drifts, etc., by day. 

Wes Ray, 

Olive Hill, Ky. 
Trapping the Mink and Muskrat. 

For trapping mink in a water set, find a shallow place about 
one or two inches deep then take your bait (a piece of muskrat, 
bird or fish is good), run a stick through it and stake to the bot- 
tom so that the bait will just stick out. Set your trap alongside 
of it and cover trap with wet leaves or grass. Do not make any 
tracks on bank but wade up the creek in order not to disturb 
anything. 

Find a stream about two feet wide that flows into a 
lake, pond or larger stream ; stake it oflf with small 
twigs or weeds, leaving a small open place in center about four 
inches wide in which place a No. i or 1^/2 trap. When the mink is 
travelling up this small stream he will go through the open place 
and get caught. 

Third" ^'^^^ ^ hollow log along the stream, and set your trap 
so it will be level with the bottom of the log ; cover 
with decayed wood from the same log so it will look natural. 
Mink like to run through anything hollow. 

A good way to catch muskrats is to make a box 
about four feet long and one foot wide with wire 



Second: 



Muskrat. 




274 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

end. A roller, or movable stick is fitted into each end and by 
grimlet hole, wires fastened thereto large enough to inline at 
forty-five degrees as shown in illustration. • 

The animal lifts the drops in going in from either end, bi:t 
cannot get out. Set this in a small stream and arrange it so 
he will have to go through the box to get past. This can be done 
by driving stakes into tlie bottom along the bo.x. I have caught 
as high as five in one night in this way. 

Fr-\xk Bander. 

S. Williamsport, Pa. 
Trapping the Mink. 

I have been vert- successful in trapping mink : I g^ve you 
herewith my method : Find a mink den ; take a rabbit, fox or 
red squirrel and a small bush or tree (the same kind that is near 
the den or hole) and run the stake through the gambrels of the 
rabbit. Drive the stake about one foot from the hole : dig out 
a place just large enough for the trap about midway between the 
bait and the hole; place another trap on tlie other side of your 
bait. Sink this trap in level with the top of tlie ground, put some 
fine grass in the bottom and place trap on the grass so it will set 
solid, and cover with leaves or grass. I prefer a Xo. ij<2 trap. 
Use a bush for a stake and only trim enough to drive it in the 
ground. 

E. N. Dabxey, 

Bristolville, O. 
Trapping the Mink. 

The best and most successful way to trap mink is to find 
where they have been running and track them to their den and 
if same cannot be found set your trap (Xo. i or ii^^ '" the 
freshest of the tracks; if they are in the sand or diggable earth. 
exca\-ate a place large enough to hold trap and chain and arrange 
to have pan level with the surrounding earth. Cover pan and 
trap with loose leaves and sprinkle fine earth over leaves so a^ 
to cover trap completely, but at the same time so that e^rth or 
leaves do not interfere when trap is spnmg. Quite often I place 
the ring through a limb, which I insert in the earth to resemble 
a small growing tree. After this is done remove all possible 
traces and leave place in natural state. Bait with fish, birds or 
part of a muskrat. If you have reason to believe that the mink 
that you are tr}-ing to capture is one that has been pinched before, 
you can take it as coming from an old experienced trapf)er. that 
a job is before you, and in this respect a ver>- good location in 
which to set your trap is in an old muskrat house, especially 
if the mink is in the habit of going in or about the house. If 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 



275 



there is no opening on the top of the house, make one. Pull 
up some of the grasses, weeds, etc., that are usually within a 
muskrat house and arrange your trap about the wall and cover 
with grasses, etc. It is preferable to place two or three traps, 
the more the better — and the quicker you are likely to capture 
the sly thief. Bait with bird or muskrat and promiscuously strew 
feathers about the traps and their immediate vicinity. In addition 
I use Oil of Anise and the scent of the female mink. 

Heixrich Bros., 

Baldwin, N. Y. 
Set for Minks, Coons, etc. 

Having noticed that where a tree or log has fallen or been 
placed across a brook or creek, any animal travelling in that 
vicinity will, more or less, cross upon it, led me to invent the fol- 
lowing device : 

The only tools necessary are a good sharp axe and a spade. 
With your tools and traps, go to the mouth of some stream or 
creek that empties into a lake or river. Take your axe and cut 
a log say eight or ten inches in diameter and long enough to 
reach across the creek, allowing about six inches to extend on 




either shore. Before putting log in place, take your axe and at 
center of log cut a notch just the size of trap and i^^^ inches 
deep. Cut two more notches, one on each side of the trap notch, 
in shape of the letter "V," six inches wide at the top and seven 
inches deep. 

When notches are cut, lay the log across the creek near the 
mouth. Take the spade and dig out each bank so the log will be 
1 5^ inches out of water. Set the trap in the center notch and 
stake trap chain to bed of the creek. It is best to set trap in good 
shape, taking plenty of time and concealing each trap carefully. 

Orrin Wicks, 

Hamilton, Mich. 
Trapping the Mink. 

I am 54 years old, and have been interested in hunting, trap- 
ping, fishing and woodcraft practically all my life. I give you 
my suggestive ideas as to trapping mink, also in another article 
as to fishing, not only for bait, but for food supply. The latter 
is very important for one away from home or civilization. 



276 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

The time for setting traps for mink depends upon the weather 
and locality. In the northern and eastern states, from the first 
to the last of October. If your first mink skin shows -dark on 
the inside, you had better leave your bait and take up your traps 
for a few days. The place to set your traps is along the banks 
of streams and on the shores of lakes and ponds. If possible 
find sriiall spring brooks that empt\- into streams and lakes and 
at the mouth of these runs, build an enclosure with an opening 
in front of same, say five or six inches wide by about ten or 
twelve high. This end of the enclosure should stand in the water 
so that your trap will be about one inch imder water. Now cover 
trap with moss or wet leaves. Never stake your trap, but use 
a swing or talley pole; if the first, drive a stake with crotch on, 
down near the trap, and place a pole in the crotch, fasten trap 
chain to the small end, and hook it down to a peg driven in the 
ground. The butt end of pole should be heavy enough to 
swing mink clear of the ground. Of the two I prefer the talley 
pole, from the fact that one will not lose a trap if a skunk or 
raccoon is caught. For this, use a sapling with all limbs left on, 
wedge chain ring on and tie the top of talley pole to a near-by 
bush or small limb. There is give enough to this arrangement to 
prevent mink from pulling out. Now place the bait on a stick 
in the back end of enclosure. I have found no better bait than 
muskrat, fish is also good. Any meat will answer. 

A good scent for fall trapping is fish oil (preferably trout) 
with three or four musk glands from the muskrat added ; put 
fish and glands into a bottle, cork and hang same in the sun, 
use a few drops of this around the enclosure, not on the bait. Save 
the musk glands of the female mink (bottle, hang in the sun as 
before) for winter and spring trapping. 

Another very good way is to set trap in a runway. If a 
natural one cannot be found, make one by placing an old log near 
a steep bank and place another log partly over this so that it 
will rest against the bank. If there is a space between logs and 
water drive down a few stakes, then they will quite likely pass 
through the artificial runway. Use no bait in this set ; use talley 
pole as before. 

Skinning. — Rip down the back side of both hind legs to vent, 
be careful and not go deep enough to cut musk glands at root of 
tail, use a split stick to remove bone from tail. Now pull skin 
off over body, cut around the eyes and ears and the skin is ready 
for stretching. 

Stretching Skin. — This is best done on a three piece fur-board, 
which is made as follows: First make the board from one-half 
inch stock, round off end and the edges. Now saw this length- 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 277 

wise into three pieces ; the middle piece should be a little tapering 
to form a wedge. Put the skin on the outside pieces first and 
stretch it as long as it will go and tack. Now insert the wedge. 
When the skin is dry, which is best done in a dark place, it i? 
ready for market. 

F. H. Bassett, 

Waterbury, Conn. 
Trapping Mink and Fox. 

I have a very good way to catch mink and fox. My method 
of catching mink is this : I use a No. 3 Newhouse trap, but 
remove one of the springs. Thus I have a trap that catches a 
mink so high that he cannot gnaw or twist out. They stay right 
there until I take them out. I never had a mink get away yet. 
But a No. 2 trap gets feet and toes. 

I use mink's musk and mink's matrix, muskrat's musk, and 
oil of cumin, well mixed, and let it stand in an air-tight bottle 
six months and shake well before using. Four to six drops of 
this scent is all I need to catch the slyest old dog mink that ever 
walked. I certainly can get them every time. I catch three 
female mink in the mating season, and get the matrix of the 
three and put into a half-pint bottle. Then I take the musk-bags 
of fifteen male mink and squeeze the musk into the bottle. I then 
catch enough muskrats to get four ounces of clear rat musk 
and from the druggist I get one ounce of oil of cumin. I put 
all into the bottle and cork it up air-tight. To bait the traps, 
I take a piece of muskrat skin and tie it on the pan of my 
trap and put four to six drops of this scent on it. Then I cover 
trap and chain so nothing is in sight but the muskrat skin on the 
pan. If there is a mink within one mile of my trap, and the wind 
blows in his direction, I know of no reason why I will not catdi 
him. It is the best mink scent and bait that any living man ever 
used. 

I have used all kinds of scent and never found any that was 
anywheres near as good as this kind. I know from experience 
what I am saying. I never had a mink get away from a No. 3 
trap yet. Anyone starting to make this scent need not make as 
much at one time. Make one-half or one-quarter at a time to 
get started. That is the way to capture the^^mink. 

Ed Brehmer, 

Spring \"alley, Minn. 
Trapping the Mink. 

In trapping the mink I have seldom used bait, although he 
will taste of almost anything that is, fish, flesh or fowl. The 
bait and trap in which I place the most reliance, is set in a hole — 



278 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. ^ 

in some bank of a stream or pond; in a hollow log, among the 
rocks ; under a root ; stranded ice or overhanging bank. A mink 
is almost certain to poke into any hole that he comes to. 

He seldom passes a hollow log or a hole in the bank without 
diving into it and exploring it to the bottom. If there is a log 
leaning from the bank into the water he will go under instead 
of over it and a Newhouse No. i or a "jumper" placed in the 
entrance and lightly covered with moss or leaves, will get him the 
first time he comes that way. I will say right here that I do 
not believe a mink cares any more for a naked trap than he does 
for a stick. If a trap is not covered, he will step over it or go 
round it because it is better footing that way. It is much better 
to cover a trap than not for the purpose of making easy footing, 
and if he is guided by sticks or stones onto the spot where the 
trap is, the catch is made more certain. 

Male minks are great wanderers during the months of Feb- 
ruary and March. During their rustling about they are looking 
more intently for the female than for food ; their errand being 
one of love, in their quest they leave no hiding place unexplored, 
and whatever caution they may have is forgotten at this time, 
and they will rush as blindly into any kind of a trap as a pig. 
The female remains more closely at home, seldom going far 
from the valley, swamp or water course that has been her home, 
so long as there is plenty of the favorite food. 

Mink feed on the cottontail rabbit more often than on fish 
and I believe prefer the muskrat to either. I have caught a great 
many in traps set in the places where muskrats haul up aquatic 
plants to eat. Where rats are at all abundant (these places are 
common along water courses and ponds) they are frequently 
caught in traps set in muskrat houses in the winter. 

A favorite set of mine has been to drive a number of stakes 
across a small stream, making a fence that is impassable except 
through an opening about six inches wide, in which a trap is 
set on a stone sunk to leave the trap about an inch under water. 
If placed where there is some current it is quite an effective set 
in cold weather. 

I seldom use the sliding pole in trapping mink as they scarcely 
ever twist off a foot even on land, and when near deep water they 
usually become entangled in roots or other obstructions and 
drown. 

Where bait is used, a good place to set your trap is at the 
junction of a small brook with a larger one; the trap is to be set 
in the water with the bait suspended over it in such a way that 
the animal must step on the trap to get at it. A hole dug in the 



Andersch Bros.' Hunter s and Trappers Guide. 279 

bank and the bait placed in the back with the trap at the entrance 
is also very good. ' 

For lure, the scent bags of the female preserved in glycerine 
has great attraction for the male, as is the case with all animals. 
Fish oil is good medicine — anything fishy attracts them — canned 
salmon, sardines, rotten shiners or other small fish, among which 
a few fresh ones are placed, is very attractive to them. 

An old mill dam is a favorite haunt of minks and there can 
usually be found a well-defined trail from the stream below the 
dam to the pond above around one or both ends. 

Chakles E. Ingalls, 
, East Templeton, Mass. 

Trapping the Mink. 

"I will tell you how I have been very successful catching 
mink," writes Mr. J. Funk of Tifiin, Ohio. 

"1 always used the No. i Newhouse trap. I did my trapping 
along a small creek and I would always try to set my trap on 
the bank where the creek made a sharp curve, especially where 
the water washed under the roots of trees. If there is a log 
near, I set my trap along this. Now I make what I call a coop. 
For this I procure a piece of bark or a flat piece of wood about 
twenty inches long and seven inches wide. Then I cut four 
small stakes and drive two of these in the ground six inches 
from the log and one inch apart; the next two I drive about the 
same distance from the log and six inches from the other two. 
Then I slip the bark down between these stakes ; get two sticks, 
lay one at each end from the bark to the log. Another piece of 
bark is needed for the roof so it will cover the coop nicely. 
Chopping should be avoided as much as possible. After this part 
is completed, I put a chunk in one end of the coop as tight as 
possible so the mink is compelled to enter from the other end. 
Then I put my bait in the back end against the chunk, and I 
always use chicken, rabbit, or muskrat for this. Now I set 
my trap. This should be set as light as possible with the spring 
toward the back end of the coop and cover with nice dry beach 
leaves. I always^ stake my trap for minks, by getting a stake 
about fourteen inches long with a branch at the top so the ring 
cannot slip off ,and driving it down at the side of the coop." 



We have the following from Mr. Ernest Havner, of Ludlow, 
Montana : 

"The mink eats fish, frogs and craw fish, and now and then 
gets into the barn and steals chickens, goslings and ducks, and 
crawls into the cellar and eats up the sausage meat, or whatever 



2 so Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

he can get his jaws on. He is a pilfering little animal and yet 
so simple and foolish that he is easily caught by a trapper that 
knows his habits. For the sake of something to eat, he runs up 
streams and crosses from one lake to another, a regular rene- 
gade. He only runs along steep banks, or under old roots and 
around rocks. The young are brought forth in May or June, in 
litters of five or si?? black looking little things. 

"To catch this animal you have only to be acquainted with 
its habits. He follows streams of water, hunting every nook and 
corner for something to eat. Place your trap near the edge of 
the water, (No. i^ is the best for mink). Have it covered with 
about an inch of water, directly in front of a steep bank or rock, 
or something on which you can hang your bait about eighteen 
inches above the level of the trap, which must be so close to 







GERMAN DEADFALL TRAP. 

This contrivance is chiefly used in Europe for killing mice and rats. 
In this country it is commonly known as the "gallow trap." Large num- 
bers of weasels, ermines and minks are annually caught in this trap, prin- 
cipally in or about the chicken coop. If made on a larger scale the trap 
is suitable for killing mink, marten, fisher and foxes. The weight on top 
of upper board must be heavy, so as to break the bones and hold the 
animal fast. Spindle is tied to center pin by a thin string. Upper board 
should fit loosely about lower pin. 

the shore that the mink cannot get to the bait without stepping 
on it. The bait should be fresh fish or frogs, or the head of some 
bird or fowl, as he is very fond of brains. 

"Another plan is to set your trap on the land about ten feet 
from the shore, covering it with a few leaves, moss, grass or loose 
dirt, or anything that will not prevent the jaws from closing. 
Hang the bait about eighteen inches above it and scent it with a 
mixture made of equal parts of honey, sweet oil, and essence of 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 281 

peppermint. About a teaspoonful of this on the bait will cause 
them to come a long distance. 

"Another good plan in which I have had good success is to 
set your traps about two feet back from the water, and from forty 
to eighty rods apart, up or down stream. Then walk over the line 
drawing after you the carcass of a muskrat or a roasted crow, or 
almost any fresh meat, and any mink that crosses this line or trail 
will follow it to the trap. 

"It is also a good plan to set your trap where the mink must 
walk over it to get at the bait. He is a great fellow to catch 
muskrats, which he loves to eat, and you may bait the trap with 
muskrat carcass and set it in a rat house where you will often 
find handfuls of little fish that the mink has brought there. 

"In the winter time he travels along springy brooks, pulling 
out frogs, and here he may be easily caught. You may also 
catch them in winter at the sides of big springs or along the 
springy sides of ponds and swamps where they like to roam." 

Poisoning Minks. 
Gentlemen : — 

Answering your letter relative to my ways of trapping, p=?rniit 
me to say that I use poison to a greater or less extent. 

The poison is put into 2, 3, 4 and 5 grain capsules and I use 
equal parts of powdered arsenic and carbolic crystals. Tl.e 
smaller sized capsules are for smaller animals and the others for 
fox and wolf. 

I place these capsules sometimes into the carcass of dead 
animals, other times in small bits of meat, especially for the 
wolf, that he can swallow. Sure death is a positive result. Neve*- 
known to fail. 

I have known and personally caught skunk and mink, as well 
as muskrat, by placing a bait on good sized fish-hook — the latter 
being attached to a wire. This may seem funny but nevertheless 
it is a fact. It is not more cruel to catch these animals tiiat way 
than it is to catch fish. Death comes just as soon as they Iry to 
escape. 

Yours truly, 

Frank Jensen'. 

Box Set For Mink. 

A British Columbia trapper, who wants his name withheld, 
states that he has had continued success for three years in trap- 
ping mink, and during that time shipped at least $500.00 worth 
of raw furs, and no small part of them were mink captured in the 
usual way, also in his favorite Box Spring Set. 



282 Andersch Bros/ Hunters an d Trappers Guide. 

Locate a spring or some junction point where the wa<"er of a 
spring- enters into a creek, and at the most suitable place build 
a box of two-inch boards, two to three feet wide, three to live 
feet long and as deep as necessary (twelve to twenty inches). 
Bore many small holes into the sides or ends, so that a fresh 
supply of water circulates at all times. Now place small live 
fish as bait therein and continue to keep this stocked from the 
early fall or even summer. The idea is to educate the mink, 
marten, otter or even the fox to habitually come after a meal. 
They will soon become accustomed to come every few days. 

I make a small shelf on one side or end of the box about three 
inches below the level, upon which the mink usually stands and 
gets into and out of the box. I set my trap on this shelf. Trap 
is attached to a stone by wire, so that when the trap is sprung the 
mink will jump into the water and pull the nearly balanced stone 
with him. The weight of the trap and stone will easily drown the 
mink. On one occasion I set two traps, one as above de- 
scribed, the other on the edge of the box nearest to the shore. 
The latter trap had a regulation chain which I attached to a 
rope. This rope was passed over limb of tree that stood con- 
veniently by. On the fork of this limb I balanced a stone weigh- 
ing probably ten to fourteen pounds, so when the fisher came 
during the night to obtain a bite or two he sprung the trap and 
evidently made a side jump, and in so doing disturbed the stone. 
When I came I found the mink dead in the water and the young 
fisher swinging five feet in the air. I killed him with my revolver. 
When I saw him hanging I just thought it was an otter, but 
his long neck and firm hold with his teeth on the chain convinced 
me that a lead pellet would put him out of misery and enrich me 
by $6.00 to $10.00. 

When nearing the set, even when re-stocking the box with 
fish, I made it a point to wade through the water and always 
from the opposite side. 

Unique Method of Capturing Mink and Muskrats. 

This unique way of catching mink, muskrats, even fisher and 
otter, is worthy of trial by anyone who finds a suitable log across 
a stream or reaching out in sgme lake. 

A strong wire is attached from one end to another on stakes 
securely driven into the ground, the wire running parallel with 
the log but at a distance of twelve to sixteen inches. Fasten 
strong fish hooks to some linen lines capable of holding the de- 
sired animal, and attach to wire. Fasten securely so as not to 
slide. Bait hooks with small pieces of muskrat, which the animal 
is able to swallow without chewing. One-half of the hooks 



Andersch Bros.' H unters and Trappers Guide. 283 

so baited should be placed on the log, the remainder just touch- 
ing the water. To prevent the victim chewing off the string, 
use guitar wire or gut strings. If hook is attached six inches 
from one end of line and to the latter a stone weighing one to 
two pounds is placed on the log, when the animal is caught he 
will jump off the log into the water and the stone will have a 
tendency to hold the animal down and of course he will drown 
very quickly. Those lines which touch the water are arranged 
for mink, muskrats and others coming up stream and become 
caught without getting on the log. 

A Montana trapper has used this method successfully and at 
one time caught an otter, on another occasion his six out of eight 
hooks had a victim — three minks, one marten, a weasel and a 
fisher. It is a very good idea to arrange a stone to pull the 
animal below the level of the water. 

C. F. G. 

Trapping the Mink. 

After trying nearly all kinds of baits and scents with no great 
results, I hit upon a bait of my own three years ago, which I have 
used exclusively since, and will say that I have had first-rate 
results. While minks are scarce in my locality, if I can find where 
one runs or a place they travel, I have nearly always taken them, 
.and I am going to give the readers of this article the benefit of 
my experience. 

I am not going to tell you how to set your traps, as I find 
nearly every trapper has his favorite sets. As for me, I use the 
pen or cobby, the hollow log, or hole ; whichever I find handiest. 
I take pains in setting and covering my trap. My favorite trap 
is the Oneida Jump trap No. 2, which I set and cover to make 
look as nearly natural with the surroundings as possible. 

Then, for bait, I use the common canned salmon and I find, 
in my locality a mink will take it when nothing else will attract 
him. The way I use it is to take a can as it comes from the 
store and empty the juice and about half the fish in a large- 
mouthed bottle with a good cork to it. After setting my trap, 
I dip a stick down in this bottle and place the stick back of the 
trap, only using what salmon adheres to the stick. This is both 
a scent and a bait. 

I have purchased different kinds of scents, paying $1.00 for 
a little bottle no bigger than my little finger, also made fish oil, 
angle worm, and all those things, but give me the canned salmon. 
It does not hurt it if it becomes a little rancid. 

F. H. Sheep, 

Montrose, Pa. 



284 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Take a box trap and line it with tin. Take a two-inch plank, 
bore a two or three-inch hole in it, drive sharp nails in about 
one inch from the top. Bore a hole a little larger than the spindle, 
insert spindle in it ; have the plank so arranged that it cannot be 
shoved in any farther. Put bait behind plank and set trap. As 
the mink puts his head in the hole to get bait, he will pull to get 
out and spring the trap, and once sprung, he is yours. 

Stop Thief traps are very good. I averaged one mink every 
day for a week by the use of these traps, which could hardly be 
possible with any other. Take essence of peppermint, honey 
and sweet oil for scent, or small fish cut in pieces and put in a 
bottle in the sun till oil is formed. 

N. C. A. 
TRAPPING THE MARTEN. 

'T will tell you how I trap marten," writes Mr. C. Anderson 
of Cape Scott. "I go up on a hill where there is cedar and find 




where they have been running up and scratching the bark oflf 
the trees. I then take sticks and drive in the ground to make a 
pen, leaving an opening where I set a No, i trap, and cover it 
up with feathers. Use fish and venison for bait. Throw the 
bait in the pen about eighteen inches from the trap. Drag bait 
when going from one trap to another as the marten will follow 
the scent." 

In trapping marten one wants to set his traps the same as 
he does for mink, excepting he must take into consideration that 
the marten is at home on trees, perhaps more so than on terra 
firma. I prefer to set my traps mostly in pens, especially con- 
structed with the idea of leaving them from one year to that 
of another. Set the traps in the den, concealing them in the usual 
way. 

When it comes to bait, I use decomposed fish ; probably noth- 
ing is better than salmon roe, especially if putrid. If this is unob- 
tainable any other meat or fish will do. No artificial oil is used 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 285 

by me, although a brother trapper of mine has used anise oil. 
No. I and i^ Newhouse traps are used exclusively by me. 
Since trapping up here, I have found that it does not pay to 
depend entirely upon marten, as some years the catch is so light 
that one would starve if he had to depend upon the returns that 
he received from the sale of marten skins. Therefore I spend 
considerable time in trapping for fox, lynx and of course mink. 
There is no particular rule where marten traps are to be set. 
One must study the habits of the animal and during the winter 
time choose the place where the tracks are most numerous. My 
marten line sometimes extends three-quarters of a mile, but 50 
traps is all I care to handle besides sets for other animals. 

E. L. Turner. 
Trapping the Marten. 

Frequently marten are met with in low, swampy ground, 
where the timber is small and therefore there will be no 
hollow logs or decayed stumps. In such case the 
trapper will have to avail himself of the boughs of spruce or 
balsam-fir to make a structure to keep out snow. Selecting a 
place where tracks are most numerous, both old and fresh, and 
where there are one or more evergreens growing, he proceeds to 
cut down a spruce and trimming off the branches cuts it into 
lengths about three feet long ; these he drives into the snow or 
mossy ground in a circle about a foot in diameter, with an open- 
ing on one side about four inches wide. The stakes slant out- 
ward, making the pen wider at top. The bait, which may be any 
kind of meat or bird, is fastened inside the pen with a peg put 
through it. The trap is placed in the opening and two twigs are 
stuck in the ground on both sides of the trap, thus insuring suc- 
cess. The twigs also should slant outwards ; next the sides and 
top of the pen are covered with spruce boughs, heavily on the 
top and letting the ends come down so as to almost conceal the 
opening. This is for keeping out meat bir^s and other vermin. 
The marten will find the opening without difficulty and of course 
when he steps in to get the bait becomes caught. 

T. GULLICKSON. 

TRAPPING THE SKUNK. 

The trapping of skunk is one of the most profitable branches 
of trapping, especially for the farmer and members of his family, 
on their own and adjoining lands, and it is only natural that the 
younger element should pursue these practices during the winter 
months. 

The fur of the skunk usually becomes prime November ist, 
and during that month, also December, his skin brings the trap- 




1 Bed Fox In a Jump Trap 

2 Young Raccoon in a New House Steel Trap 

3 Raccoon In a Jump Trap 

4 2 Skunks Caught in Steel Traps 



Caught and Photographed 
by H. O. Ingalls, 
West Haven, 
Vermont 



Andersch Bros.' H unters and Trappers Guide. 287 

per more money and probably he is caught then with more ease 
than later in the year when one has to resort to digging them out. 
The skunk can be caught with the assistance of a good dog 
during the night, also by setting traps in their dens which may 
be in some side of a hill, under a root of a tree, in hollow logs, 
under old out-buildings, barns, etc. Quite often, if such places 
are not found, traps may be set in some small enclosures made by 
stakes driven in the ground. Baiting is quite essential but any- 
thing will do for the skunk. 

During January skunks are somewhat harder to trap, but 
just as soon as the sun gets warm, which is usually the case 
during the month of February, the skunk will begin to run from 
one hole to that of another and their hibernating habits cease. 
The buck skunk will usually travel much farther, but I find that 
the female skunk does not confine herself to her abode as is the 
practice of the female mink. Should the weather be cold the 
running season does not begin until March. At that time, you 
will find skunk on the go night and day. Quite naturally the 
male skunk knows every den in the immediate vicinity and in his 
haunts visits one after another and, seemingly, he is not detained 
very long in any one of them, but passes on to another within 
a very short time. This is the time when the farmer boy should 
devote a week or two to trapping skunks, because soon thereafter 
the skins are unprime, the fur begins to shed, and the fur dealer 
is obliged to class same as No. 2, No. 3, and shedding. 

Place your steel traps in front of their dens. Don't confine 
yourself to steel traps entirely but obtain wire traps, either the 
Stop Thief pattern, or those made by the Oneida Community Co. 
Better results are sometimes obtained by using home-made traps, 
especially when you can get five to six skunks at one time. At 
this time of the year, when skunks are plenty, I never stop to 
dig them out ; time seems to be too precious. If the weather 
should turn unfavorable, then I revert to digging. 

Last year I caught over three hundred skunks within three 
weeks, besides other furs, and if any one can beat me, he will 
have to show me because I come from Missouri. 

Jack Morrow. 
Trapping the Skunk. 

From a trapper in Missouri we have the following article on 
catching skunks : 

"To find the skunk's den look for a hole at the side of a 
hill or rise of ground, or under rock piles and rocky bluflfs, and 
sometimes in old wells. Now examine the holes to find if 
black and white hairs are sticking to the entrance, which is often 
the case when the holes are too small. Skunks are lazy animals 



288 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

and when possible, they take possession of holes made by other 
animals. If they have occupied the hole long, you will find 
a manure pile near by. 

"If their den is found in the side of a hill where digging is easy, 
dig them out, but never start where there are too many rocks. 
Their bed is usually placed above the rest of the hole in such 
a manner that makes it very hard to drown them out. With 
these points in view it is best to trap them either with steel 
traps or with what is commonly known as a "deadfall" which 
consists of a lot about twelve inches each way closed on three 
sides. On the fourth side lies a pole which sets upon the "trig- 
gers" and which is baited with hog-liver, if obtainable ; if not, 
with fresh meat (preferably rabbit heads). When the skunk 
touches the bait the trigger rod releases the pole, and falling, it 
breaks the back of the animal, and consequently, when found the 
next morning, he is dead. These traps should be placed about 
five feet from the hole in the run, and baited carefully. Should 
you wish to use the steel traps rub them with hog-liver. Place 
the traps in the hole and cover all but the plate with leaves ; then 
fasten the trap securely to some clog or stake. Take the fat from 
some fish and fry it out and pour into a bottle. Leave the cork 
out and expose it until the oil decays and becomes very strong. 
Place a few drops near the hole and some on the plate of the 
trap. Cover the trap with fine leaves, fasten securely, and visit 
your traps each morning. This decoy is also good in trapping 
other animals. 

"The skinning is the next process; to do this, cut 'from the 
foot of one hind leg to the foot of the other and detach them from 
the flesh. Next cut from both sides to the root of the tail, care- 
fully avoiding the "musk bag." Then after skinning the tail, 
put your feet on its two hind feet and pull steadily until you 
have detached the hide. Be very careful not to cut any holes 
in the fur as this slightly injures its selling value. Stretch and 
dry the hide in a cased shape and always have the fur next to 
the board or stretcher, so as to keep the flesh part exposed to the 
air to dry : Scrape the fat from the skunks and render just as 
you would lard. This makes a very good medicine for people 
suffering from colds. Ship your furs to a reliable company and 
do not sell to the home dealer as he usually pays an inferior 
price. Go to your traps daily and skin as fast as caught." 

Trapping the Skunk. 

A Pennsylvania trapper, who wishes his name withheld, writes 
as follows: 

"My experience in catching skunk is as follows: The time 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 289 

to start out is during the fall (November or December) when 
there is a light fall of snow which enables me to follow the skunk 
by his tracks to the den or his feeding place, and at these places 
I set the traps. Their holes are found generally on the south side 
of a hill under stone piles, and when you have found such a 
place examine the sides of the holes and look for black and white 
hairs, that generally adhere to the sides. If you find these hairs 
you can bet that the hole is not an old one and that skunks inhabit 
the same. 

"Another way I can always find out whether the hole is 
occupied or inhabited is in looking about the opening and if I 
find a pile of their manure which has a fresh appearance, I know 
that hole is inhabited, and I set my trap on the pile or there- 
abouts. I use a steel trap, No. i or ij^, but in front of holes 
often use Stop Thief traps. 

"You will find all the way from two to twelve skunks in a 
den. They are not shrewd at all and will readily walk into 
uncovered steel traps. I like the Stop Thief trap better for 
the reason that it kills the skunk and does not leave the dis- 
agreeable odor on the pelt." 

Trapping The Skunk. 

I well remember the first skunk I ever caught, in fact, I shall 
never forget it. I had heard a lot about people catching them, 
and selling skins for a good price and as I wanted some money, 
I concluded I would catch skunks. 

One warm day in January, I started out with an axe and 
spade on my shoulder. (Skunks are nearly always dug out in 
this vicinity.) I had gone about a mile and came onto a track 
and followed it till it went into a hole under a stump. As it was 
afternoon when I started, it got dark before I got Mr. Skunk. 
I concluded to plug the hole up and leave him till morning. I 
went back the next morning, but he had gotten out, so oflF I 
went on his track, following about two miles, to where he had 
stopped for the day. I set to work again and as it was a short 
shallow hole in a sheltered place, I soon came to him. I got 
a long stick and pounded him till he ceased to struggle. Then I 
got him out and he proved to be a big broad stripe. I certainly 
was pleased to think I had got him and came home feeling great. 
Everything went fine until I got home. Then the trouble began. 
I had to change my clothes, wash my hands good, and put my 
boots outdoors. You will all know why. I sold his pelt for 40c 
and that ended my first winter's skunk-hunting. 

But I did better afterwards, as I got along without any smell 
in either killing or skinning. I will give my method for the 



290 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



benefit of those who dig skunks out. First, when you get a skunk 
tracked to a hole, look all about to see if there are two or more 
entrances. If there is only one entrance all the better. If more 
than one, run a stick down below the frost in all but one, so the 
skunk cannot get out. Then begin to dig at the mouth of the 
hole and follow right along. If there are branches off of the 
main hole, dig them out too, unless you have a good dog. If you 
have, he will soon show you where your game is. The most 
delicate part of the digging-out process is when you come to his 
skunkship. When you get right close to him, be careful not to 
disturb him, but quietly shut the hole up in front of him and dig 
over top and past him. Dig till there is not more than an 







. .o\/aw^ 



V/'o 



f:^wMu 



BOX TRAP. 



A very simple arrangement especiallj' adapted for capturing animals 
and birds alive. The cover or lid can be raised much higher if preferred. 
A similar contrivance was used some years ago for capturing a large 
African lion that was taken to England. 

inch of dirt over top, then gently begin to press the dirt down 
on him.* After you get him nicely covered three or four inches 
deep, begin to tramp the dirt in solidly. Cover about eighteen 
or twenty inches deep and leave for fifteen or twenty minutes 
and he will be dead. 

Skinning is the next operation. I always begin at the heels 
on the inside of hind legs and cut to the root of tail. It is best 
to use a very sharp knife for this. Loosen the skin around the 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappe rs Ouide. 291 

hind legs and take tail-bone out. Sharpen a stick six or eight 
inches long at both ends and tit through the large cords just 
above the heels and hang over a limb of convenient height. Then 
use your hands and a somewhat duller knife to pull the pelt over 
his head. Be careful cutting around the eyes and not leave a big 
hole as it injures the pelt. Be careful around the ears also. 

Stretching comes next in order. This is a very important part 
of handling too. I use the one piece stretcher most, although I 
sometimes use the three-piece, which I believe is a little better 
as you can stretch the skin a little more. It is hard to get the 
one-piece stretcher just the right size and the three-piece stretcher 
can be vaned a little to suit the size of the skin. There is danger 
of stretching the skin too hard with the three-piece stretcher, 
which makes the fur appear thin. 

Selling our catch is important to the most of us too. Well 
handled skins always bring a good price and everybody likes to 
buy them. Poorly handled, the buyers try to buy them cheap. 
The trapper, as well as the buyer is displeased with his returns 
for poorly handled skins. Some travelling buyers pay good 
prices and some very poor prices, so taking everything into 
consideration, it is better for the trapper to ship his own catch 
to some reliable company. Roy Abray, 

Highgate, Ont., 
Trapping The Skunk. 

Mr. A. A. Lamb, Buchanan, Mich., states that he has been 
very successful in capturing skunk. 'T sometimes use two or 
three joints of ordinary stove pipe with a swing door on one 
end, which the skunk is able to push inward ; the other end is 
closed. I also fasten the pipe so that the animal cannot roll it 
when inside. Have taken as many as six skunks in one night. 
For bait I use a piece of muskrat or part of some old stinking 
chicken. Either of these are good. A neighbor and myself dug 
a trench long enough for four joints of stove pipe and covered 
these joints up with earth and placed an old chicken for bait 
therein. One of the openings was closed, and in the other end 
a swinging door, opening inward, through which the skunk was 
supposed to pass, was arranged. A dead chicken was dragged 
in various directions leading to the opening. On one occasion 
we dragged this bait for such a distance that there was very 
little left of it. The next morning, however, we found thirteen 
skunks in the stove pipe." 

Trapping The Skunk. 

The skunk is not a very sly animal and with a little care 
can be easily caught. However, I always cover my trap well, 



292 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



first by spreading a paper over the jaws and then covering with 
loose dirt. I do not set my trap at the entrance of the den, as 
when one is caught, the rest will sometimes leave, but place it 
about a rod from the entrance, bait it with mice, prairie dog. 
squirrel, or bits of meat, and the skunk, greedy for bait, will 
seldom fail to get caught. 

After getting them in the trap, to kill them without getting 
the scent on one's person, come up, if possible, without attract- 
ing attention and give them a quick blow at the root of the 
tail. This paralyzes them so they cannot use their scent for 
some time and they can then be easily killed. 

Or, if trapping along a stream, set the trap so that a weight 
may be placed over the water, so that when the skunk is caught 
he will be thrown into the water and drown ; in this way no scent 
will remain about the hide. Fred D. Abbott. 

Ft. Pierre, S. D. 




TRIANGLE BOX TRAP. 

The triangle should be from 3 to 4 feet long, and for bottom take 
2-inch plank 14 inches wide. Lower plank should be 3 inches longer on 
each end. Securely fasten wire screening or laths on one end and arrange 
drop door as per illustration. Tie a string to door, pass over beam through 
upper portion of triangle, then slanting to staple, and fasten to figure four 
arrangement by using lower plank as a part of the contrivance. The spindle 
should be arranged to hold upright stick to which string is attached by a 
notch made into the plank. Bait should be attached to spindle. The 
animal by partaking of the bait disturbs the spindle and the door drops. 

Trapping The Skunk. 

We have the following interesting article from Mr. William 
Plummer, of Rochester. Minn. 

"I was once told that skunks were the most ignorant of all 
wild animals and the most easy to catch. Probably, that is 
pretty near the truth, for, as a rule, it does not require much 
skill and experience to catch the ordinary skunk. But like every- 



Andersch Bros* Hunters and Trappers Guide. 293 

thing else, there are a few of tliem that get wise by experience; 
at least, I have found it so. 

"During the winter of 1901, a neighbor's boy told me where 
several skunks were in the habit of frequenting. He had been 
trapping for them but could not catch them. They would get 
into his traps but always pulled out some way. He showed me 
his traps. They were No. o rat traps. Well, I told him I would 
try my hand, so I went to work with a No. i>^. The ground 
was bare at the time so I had to go somewhat by guess. I set 
at least half a dozen traps, using smoked bacon for bait. I 
kept this up for a week but got no skunk. Finally, one evening, 
there fell a light soft snow. Now, I thought, I will get my skunk. 
I was out early, found a track and followed it to within six 
feet of my trap where it turned off. I followed it further and 
found where some sheep had been killed by wolves. Just part 
of one leg and some wool was left. Mr. Skunk had feasted on 
that and gone on. I set two traps right there, covered them up 
carefully, brushed out my tracks best I could. Next morning I 
went to get my skunk but he was not there. He had come for 
another meal but having discovered danger, turned when within 
ten feet of the trap and left. Several others served me the same 
way during the week, so I gave it up. That neighbor's rat trap 
had educated them, but they are not all wise. 

'T have caught them by turning over a nail keg, placing 
a steel trap in the front end, and laying a small bit of bacon at 
rear end. I have caught them by setting steel traps in paths 
uncovered; have caught them by the neck by placing a bit of 
meat under the pan of trap. 

"Skunks will gather together in dens for the winter, a dozen 
or more in a den. Last winter I caught eighteen at one den with 
a No. 2 Newhouse trap. I kept that trap there all winter, day 
and night. Sometimes, though, one or two only will stay at one 
place. Towards spring the toms will start out on long journeys, 
stopping at every den they come to, and the man that undertakes 
to run them down must prepare for a long trip. 

"One morning last winter in going over my line of traps, 
I noticed a track going up to a den where I had a trap set 
but the skunk had turned aside when he noticed the trap, so 
I made up my mind to run him down. A soft snow had fallen 
during the previous day — the brush was covered with it — but 
I was determined to get that skunk. He stopped at a dozen 
different dens, and led me through the worst thickets in the 
forest. Finally, about three o'clock in the afternoon he brought 
up at a den where skunk tracks were coming and going in all 
directions. I stopped right there and set a No. 2 Newhouse in 



294 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



the den and two outside, and during the next few days caught 
seven skunks right there — five of them females. 

"I generally use No. 2 double spring steel traps. I find it 
pays as they sometimes pull out of smaller traps. When setting 
in dens, I use no bait and seldom cover the trap, but in paths 
away from dens, I usually cover them lightly with dried grass 
or leaves, and bait with smoked bacon under the pan or hang 
about a foot above. To kill them without scenting, I take a foot 
of fine brass or copper wire, make a loop of it, tie it to a twelve 
foot pole, slip the loop over the skunk's head, and pull him 
quickly off the ground. If caught just right he dies in a few 
minutes ; if he continues to wriggle I hang the pole over a bush, 
stump, rock or whatever is handiest, and look after the rest of 
my traps ; when I come back he is always dead." 

Trapping the Skunk. 

An Iowa trapper relates his way of killing skunk without 
the animal throwing its essence over him. 

"Take a stick three to four feet long, and when I see a skunk 




BOX TRAP. 

Especially adapted for capturing skunk, badger and similar animals. 
The box is about 18 to 20 inches long, 12 to 14 inches deep. The door Is 
conveniently hung on a rod penetrating from one side to the other, as per 
illustration. This trap is recommended only when trapper desires to 
capture the animal alive. Bait with meat or dead birds, rabbits etc. 

in the road or about his hole, I simply walk right for him, point- 
ing the stick at his nose, and it's surprising that the animal will 
stand in a hypnotized manner, and when you get within reach 
will try to grab the stick. Then is the time to give the animal 
a sharp blow over the head. This will settle him. I never trap 
or kill skunk until about the first of December, and not later 
than February." 

Trapping the Skunk. 

"Last winter I caught sixteen skunks by setting No. 13^2 steel 
traps just at the opening leading to an old graveyard. 

"I barricaded all other openings, excepting two, and set a 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 295 

trap a little on one side in the opening and every morning I had 
one or two of them caught. I killed them with my twenty-two 
rifle by shooting them in the head or eyes. 

"My brother, who makes a business of trapping each winter, 
helped me to take the skins off and I will tell you how he did 
it. He calls it 'his lightning way,' and sure enough, it didn't 
take him any time to take the skins off from the first three 
skunks. He has had great experience trapping for the last ten 
or fifteen years, and selling $300.00 to $500.00 worth of fur every 
year, all being his own skins. 

"When I told him to help me, he went into the barn, brought 
two knives, a hatchet, two knife-like pieces of wood made out of 
oak, a rope, a few pieces of strong cord, a small hand saw, some 
nails, and stretchers. This constituted his outfit for skunks. 

"He tied a string to each hind foot, raised the animal off the 
ground, hung it against a tree in which he first drove a ten- 
penny nail with his hatchet, and then took the small knife and 
made a slit from the vent to where the strings were tied on the 
legs, cut around each leg just below the string, and then pro- 
ceeded to skin out the legs. He then skinned as far as possible 
down the body, severed the tail from the body, and pulled the 
skin down, using the knife as little as possible. In no time he 
was down to the front legs. He cut the legs off just by the knee, 
and with one hand against the body, the other holding the skin, 
freed the legs, then he pulled the skin down to the head. He cut 
around the ears, eyes and mouth, and the skin was off. I don't 
think it took him five minutes. He later removed the string 
and placed it on another skunk, and proceeded the same way as 
he did before. 

"When it came to stretching, he took an ordinary single 
board stretcher and with his hatchet drove four nails — two on 
each side of the tail and two on belly portion — and proceeded 
with his hatchet to scrape off the surplus fat and later used the 
two hard-wood knife-like pieces, and in no time had the skin 
freed from fat. He also split the tail open and by attaching a 
string to the tail-bone, pulled the bone out; at another time he 
simply ripped the tail open and removed the tail-bone by cutting 
it out. When he was through with all the skunks we took the 
skins home and he placed them for me on regular wedge stretch- 
ers. After the skins were thoroughly dry, I shipped them to 
you at Minneapolis and you allowed me from 85c to $1.30 apiece 
—they being narrow striped skins — and the average price I 
realized after freight was deducted was nearly $1.05 each." 

Pedar Olson. 



2^6 Andersch Bros.* Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

TRAPPING THE CIVET CAT. 

This carnivorous animal, feeding on rats, mice and gophers, 
frequently makes a visit to the farmer's poultry yard. They are 
not very cunning, readily entering a trap. If you set the trap 
at their dens you should have the trap staked back from the hole 
so if one gets in he will not pull the trap back into the hole 
thus making it hard to kill him without getting scented. Set 
traps along creeks, hedges, fences, etc. Before setting traps take 
a piece of pork and hold it over the fire until it gets good and 
brown, also take along some fish oil (which can be purchased 
at any drug store), put a few pieces of the pork and a few drops 
of the fish oil around your traps and you are pretty sure of every 
civet cat that comes that way. I prefer a No. i trap for them, 
for if you get a skunk in a trap set for them he will stay there 
while he would be apt to pull out of a No. o. Skin them as 
you would a mink, taking care not to cut the scent-glands; it is 
best to remove them. If you take them out, commence back of 
them, cutting into the flesh underneath until you have them cut 
entirely out. Stretch your skin on a board like a mink ; always 
flesh part outside. Leave tail attached. They are ready to take 
off the board in two weeks. 

Obrey L. Wolfe, 

Malvern, Iowa. 
Trapping the Civet Cat. 

The civet cat, like the skunk, is an easy animal to trap. In 
fact, I make no distinction in setting the traps, neither in size of 
traps for one or the other. The traps are set at the openings 
of their dens ; at other times I make artificial enclosures for the 
trap so as to cover the bait from the weather. Wire traps are 
also very good. In fact, I prefer the wire trap to the steel trap 
when in quest of civet cat. 

Skinning — In skinning one must be careful not to cut their 
scent bags. One would hardly believe me when I state that I 
caught two civet cats in one trap, while living in the southern part 
of Indiana, but such is a fact. Presumably both came across the 
bait at the same time, and being eager to take hold, stepped on the 
pan. As far as bait is concerned, I use any old piece of meat. 
No bait is necessary when traps are set in front of their dens or 
over their holes. F. L. Robinson. 

Trapping the Civet Cat. 

Civet cat are as easy to trap as skunk. The only experience 
I have had in trapping civet cat especially, was some years ago 
on the farm, and having nothing to do one December day, I 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 297 

fixed up an old smoke stack from an engine, which was discarded, 
arranged a trap door at one end and the other end I pounded 
together. This I carried about half a mile and placed it along a 
fence where I had previously seen skunk and civet cat. I dragged 
an old hen, from which the feathers were previously burned 
off, along the ground in various directions and finally threw it in 
the stack. The next morning I took out three skunks and two 
civet cats and continued to catch one or two of these animals 
every day. A. L. Berrens. 

TRAPPING THE WILD CAT. 

We have the following on trapping the wild cat from Mr. 
John A. Lien, of Wisconsin : 

"The wild cat (or bob cat sometimes called) finds its home 
in thick woods or swamps, particularly dense cedar swamps. To 
trap these animals no great skill is necessary as they enter a trap 
readily if properly covered with some soft material, such as 
powdered wood, fine grass, or tissue paper is all right when it 
is slightly sprinkled with snow under the open sky. 

"This is the way I go at it : I build my camp or shanty away 
from any settlement in the centre of my trapping territory so 
that I trap four different ways. To save walking, I generally 
string my traps out four or five miles either way, and so that I 
can see them every other day. I set them about twenty to thirty 
rods apart and three traps at a place in the following manner: 
First, I cut stakes, (or logs, if more convenient) and build a kind 
of house or pen, one side open large enough for the cat to enter. 
I place three traps in the opening. Then I get balsam or spruce 
boughs and make a roof large enough to shield the traps from 
rain or snow. I clog my traps (I never stake them fast) and 
cover them with any material I find handy, — feathers are very 
well. I then put the bait in the bottom of the house or pen, and 
all is ready. I use very seldom any odors, but fish oil or any 
attraction for mink will do for the wild cat. Any kind of bait 
will do — rabbit is as good as any. I make my trail as close to the 
settings (as I call the place where I put my traps) as I can 
walk. The better I get my trail the surer I am of getting my 
cat. It is a good plan to take a proper log and drag after you 
to make your trail more even. Never make any sharp turns on 
it, as a cat will follow a trail for any length if it is fine and the 
snow is deep, and if once on your trail she will yisit every setting 
until she is caught. 

"A good plan is to place several traps where you see some 
remnants of a cat's former meal as she is most likely to return. 
Leaving a dead cat surrounded by traps is also good, for if there 



298 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



are any cats in the vicinity you are sure of a visit. The reason 
I set three traps to each setting is because there are always more 
or less squirrels, birds or rabbits coming into them and when you 
have several traps close by, you are more sure of getting your 
cat when she comes. 

"The traps I have used are various, from a poor rat trap to 
a beaver trap. I caught the most of them in mink and muskrat 
traps. I never lost one that got in the trap, and even if only 
caught by one claw it generally holds her. However, I lost sev- 
eral traps from lack of better fastening to the clog. A New- 
house trap No. I is good enough but a No. 13^ is the kind I 
prefer." 




COMBINATION STEEL TRAP AND SNARE SET. 

The snare should be slightly fastened to the log and side of tree and 
arranged to a spring pole. The steel trap must be covered with straw, 
leaves and similar vegetation, upon which throw a thin layer of loose earth. 
The above arrangement is .suitable for raccoons, wild cats, lynx and similar 
animals. 

Trapping The Wild Cat. 

From a trapper residing in Utah, Mr. Wm. R. Green, Jr., 
by name, we have the following : 

"I herewith send my experience in trapping wild cat. I first 
get a location in a canon or valley with a stream running through 
it. Then I get some sort of game meat such as rabbit, chicken 
or venison and drag it across the canon or valley from mountain 
to mountain at intervals about a mile apart. I set a No. 2 to No. 4 
steel trap at intervals along these paths about two hundred yards 
apart. I will place the trap in a pen, of a. rectangular shape, the 



Andersch Bros.' H unters and Trappers Guide. 299 

point of pen being made in some bush or bunch of willows or 
against a tree, and I then place the bait in the bush or hang it 
on a limb of the tree a little above and a little back of the trap 
and make it fast and solid with a wire or some strong cord. The 
trap should be made fast to a clog or stick of wood about three 
feet long and about three inches in diameter. This clog should 
be covered with leaves or dirt — whichever may be handiest. The 
wild cats generally travel up and down a canon or valley, 
and I will guarantee that I can catch nine out of every ten that 
crosses my path in the way above described. 

"N. B. The traps should be covered with leaves or trash so 
that nothing is visible and so that they will not freeze down." 

Trapping the Wild Cat. 

W. H. Hendershot, a trapper of twenty-five years' experi- 
ence, writes as follows : 

"I generally hunt wild cats and lynx by using a dog to 
follow the tracks of the cat. I assist him very often as the cat 
walks logs, climbs trees, etc. But when the dog starts the 
animal, one must be on the lookout and ready to shoot as the 
cat will run here and there and all around, dodging the dog, 
and in order to save the dog one must shoot the cat; otherwise 
the dog \yould become useless for further hunting, should a fight 
ensue. 

"In trapping this animal, I find, if possible, remnants of his 
former meal and set traps about his leavings, or place where 
the cat buried the remaining portion of his victim. 

"The trap, of course, must be covered with leaves, bits of 
rotten wood, and if snow around, I cover with snow but always 
have leaves, etc., under pan. If any cats or lynx are around 
you will catch them, and sometimes a wolf or fox." 

Trapping the Wild Cat. 

It is quite easy to catch these animals. They have their dens 
in cliflfs and when these are not handy, they are in holes in the 
ground where they have their young. As a rule, they stay near 
their dens the year round. Find where their tracks are quite 
plentiful, which usually, is near their dens. Now make an en- 
closure in a V-shape, or find a natural one and improve it a little, 
so there is only one side for the animal to get in at. For bait, 
take a rabbit, put him in the pen, and jerk his intestines out 
so it will cause an odor. This is the best bait a trapper can get 
out in the wilderness, with the exception of deer liver, lungs, and 
intestines, which is the best bait on earth for these animals. 
Sometimes sheep carcass is also good bait. 



300 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Now, if the enclosure is narrow, use one trap. If it is wide, 
use two or three traps. Set them in front of the enclosure two 
feet apart, and by using three traps, set them in triangle shape. 
If I trap in a country where there are mountain lions, I use the 
set with three traps, but if there are no lions, just one trap is 
plenty. 

A No. 2 Newhouse, or Hawley and Norton, will hold a cat, 
but if you trap in a country where there are lions, be sure to use 
No. 4 of the same make, for I have caught as many lions with 
this set, as I have wild cat and lynx. 

Wm. Weibel^ 

La Porte, Colo. 




SPRING POLE. 

The above is one of the best, cheapest and probably the surest way of 
raising the captured mink, fox, lynx, or even the wolf, from the ground. The 
steel trap and chain must be covered and care should be taken to have some 
leaves, cotton or other soft substance beneath the pan to prevent filling 
under. 

HOW THE LYNX IS HUNTED AND TRAPPED. 

In the first place I had one tied up by the side of my door 
so I could study their habits. I find by all kinds of treatment 
they are vicious and untamable. Will eat all kinds of game but 
no vegetables or bread or any kind of cooked food. Will eat 
sparingly of fish if starved to it. Rabbits are their general food. 
Where you find great numbers of rabbits you will find lynx. They 
will kill young deer, also young calves ; will follow a trail for 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 301 

miles. Drag a small piece of deer paunch as you walk along, or 
if you have no paunch, get five or six pounds of beef liver, hang 
up behind the stove for two or three days or a week until it gets 
tainted and the blood begins to drop out of it. Then mash up 
to a jelly, put in jar and set away, where it won't freeze. If you 
happen to be in possession of a beaver carcass, take all fat off 
of it and try out in lard pail ; do not scorch it. When cool, take 
say five or six tablespoonfuls of the beaver oil and a small tea- 
cup of the mashed liver and mix both together. Have this in a 
bottle to carry with you. Every half mile, on going the rounds 
of your traps, put a little on the soles of your shoes or mocca- 
sins ; and the lynx when he comes to your trail will never leave 
it until he comes to your trap. If your trap is properly set, you 
will have the lynx. I use four or five drops of anise oil in 
the mixture also. 

Now a lynx as a general thing is quite a genius and is also 
very inquisitive. Never try to make a lynx get in a trap if he 
has just had a good meal for he will not do it. But he will follow 
your trail for miles and look into each house you have got on the 
trail, and will keep on going until he gets hungry. In order to 
catch them while on these rounds, I have adopted the "gate on 
the trail," or the "double stick racket." I found by close study 
that lynx will always step in your tracks, that is, if you do not 
step too far. I never step over ten or twelve inches. Do not 
make your trail too wide ; keep it as narrow as you can in the 
snow. I have had as many as five to seven lynx follow me for 
over a mile, just looking into the houses and go on to the next 
one. So I made a little brush fence for a couple of yards or so 
on each side of trail ; leaving a small passageway for myself and 
the lynx to pass through. Then I lay two small sticks across 
trail, say one inch in diameter and about four inches high and 
seven inches apart ; then set a No. 3 Newhouse trap in center 
of little sticks and cover up with wild grass that I find around 
under trees. The next lynx that comes along will step over one 
of the sticks and into the trap. I caught no less than six lynx 
in one trap this way. 

I make my lynx houses out of old brush and- poles. Find a 
good tree that sheds snow as much as possible and make a lynx 
house by leaning sticks about five feet long, up against it, enclos- 
ing it quite tight and leaving an opening about fifteen inches 
wide facing the trail. Put bait back in house and tie it fast, and 
set a No. 3 trap about three inches outside of entrance and a little 
to one side. I use for bait a small piece of rabbit with three 
or four drops of anise oil and some of the liver mixture men- 
tioned before, John A. Bleeker, 



302 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Trapping the Lynx. 

Lynx are not difficult to trap. I have had pretty good suc- 
cess, and you probably know that as well as any one elsS by the 
number of skins I have sent you. I do not expect to stay in 
British Columbia much longer, therefore will give you my meth- 
ods of trapping in this section. 

As far as traps are concerned, I prefer the Newhouse, nothing 
smaller than No. 2^, larger ones preferred, although I have 
caught a lynx in a No. i. He would have escaped were it not 
for the fact that the jaws held him by one of his toes, and he 
had sense enough not to struggle. 

The lynx will follow the trail of other animals as well as 
that of the trapper. I set my traps in my own path, as well 
as those made by cattle or wild beasts. A hole is made of suffi- 
cient size to hold the trap. A piece of dry limb is laid on each 



^ea^'^oXLTroc^ ^ 




DEADFALL. 

To spring trap, animal steps upon spindle or presses it down with his 
belly upon entering inclosure to obtain bait. Suitable for wolf, fox, lynx, 
wild cat, wolverine, etc. A steel trap set in front of entrance makes the 
visitor's capture doubly sure. 

side of the trap, so when the lynx comes along he will prefer 
to step between the two pieces of wood and of course in the 
trap. At other times I make an artificial abode and set my trap 
within it. Such sets require bait. The lynx is not very particu- 
lar as to what kind of bait it is — rabbit, grouse, duck, goose, or, 
in fact, any kind of birds or animals or parts therefrom. Occa- 
sionally the traps are fastened to some drag. At other times I 
arrange chain to spring pole. None of these are essential, as 
traps fastened on a stick answer the purpose. I do not think 
much about decoy but have used beaver castors mixed with whis- 
key and asafetida. Have killed as many lynx with the rifle as 
with traps, and probably all due to the lynx coming pretty close 



Andersch Bro s/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 303 

to the cabin at night. I usually shoot from the roof of the cabin. 
Snares are also very good, but the cheapest and best, next 
to steel traps, and probably the surest, are deadfalls. In your 
first edition, you had my favorite deadfall (pages 218-227). 
You also had a good one on page 230, but in addition I always 
drove stakes about the front edges of logs, thus forcing all ani- 
mals to get in between the logs. Last year I caught one of the 
prettiest black bears I ever laid my eyes on in one of the last 
described traps. His head was flattened and he died almost 
instantly. J. H. Donnly. 

Trapping the Lynx. 

Select a large tree close to where lynx travel and fasten bait, 
which may be a rabbit or the skin therefrom stuffed ; tie to trunk 
of tree about three feet from ground and set up a few dry 
branches or stakes on both sides forming kind of shelter for the 
trap and a pen so that they cannot get the bait without step- 
ping on the trap. Set your trap about two feet in front of the 
tree, and if rabbits are numerous, throw a few branches outside 
of the trap to keep them out. Towards the latter part of Febru- 
ary trappers should have all traps out set for lynx; that they can 
possibly attend to, as at that time the lynx will go more readily 
for bait than at any other time in the year, and when one is 
caught its carcass should be thrown into the pen for bait. 

T. GuLLiCKSON. 

TRAPPING THE MOUNTAIN LION. 

"Some years ago while at home near my uncle's place in the 
mountains of Pennsylvania," relates Mr. Hassinger, "a large 
American tiger (mountain lion) made his existence known by 
peculiar cries, and later, became visible not only to myself but 
others. 

"We were often followed when returning from work by this 
brute, and my uncle prepared and set a thirty- four pound double 
spring steel trap in his path and he felt sure he would follow us 
some day from the mountains and get into the trap. 

"Some few days later his capture was made known by the 
terrible yells that caused chills to overcome those that heard 
him. My uncle, being an expert shot, visited the scene accom- 
panied by his two little boys — four to six years old. He took 
careful aim and fired, and much surprised was he in missing the 
animal. The bullet struck the trap, breaking it, and at the same 
time freeing the brute. If there ever was a time that he wished 
his second shot to count, the time had come and he prayed that 
his aim might be good and he be relieved from responsibility 
of takinsf the children with him for such a task. Before the ani- 



304 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

mal was able to use his benumbed paw, my uncle again took 
careful aim and fired, and his prayers were answered by the bullet 
striking the animal in the head and the brute reeling over to the 
ground. 

"Careful investigation showed that after the brute was caught 
in the thirty-four pound trap he made various leaps in the air 
— the greatest of them was when he cleared thirty-two feet with- 
out touching the ground, carrying with him in the air a weight 
of thirty-four pounds. 

"This tiger is the largest I have ever seen and adorns the 
back parlor of my uncle's mountain home." 

Trapping the Mountain Lion. 

My experience in trapping the mountain lion is limited, as 
I prefer to bring him down with the rifle. I came across these 
brutes many times while in the Yukon country. It seems to me 
that the brutes there are much larger than those in Colorado. 
They tell me that the animal is very plentiful in parts of Alaska. 

While in Colorado we caught one of these animals in a 
wolf trap. It was either No. 4 or 43^ trap and the lion sprung 
it with his front paw. The trap got a good hold of him, and 
notwithstanding that he dragged the trap and the post to which it 
was attached, for miles, we finally got him, though spending the 
best part of the day to find him. He was a vicious brute and 
none of us dared to go near him. We finally had to kill him 
with the rifle. 

One of the largest lions I ever killed in the Yukon country 
must have weighed 125 to 150 pounds, and measured from nose 
to tip of tail at least eight and one-half or nine feet. I would 
take my chances any time with a bear instead of one of these 
brutes. C. J. Loomis. 

TKAPPING THE FOX. 

If every other method fails, the following, if properly done, 
will crown you with success. 

In some out-of-the-way place, which foxes are known to 
frequent, away from the public road and from dogs, on side of 
small hill out of view of roads, houses and other places of habi- 
tation, drop a load of barn manure from a wagon or sled but do 
not step off the wagon or sled. In unloading the manure make 
a round pile somewhat flat on top. In a few days drive to the 
place again and drop from the wagon or sled the stomach and 
intestines from a freshly butchered hog, sheep or other animal. 
Place this on top of the pile and slightly cover with manure. 
Now take two or three fox traps and set them twelve to fourteen 
inches outside of bait. Before setting traps see that they are in 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 305 

good working order, and either have them soaked in blood or 
smoke them. Fasten chain to some drag, which may be a limb, 
piece of fence post or any object weighing ten to fifteen pounds, 
unless it be a limb, in which case it can be much lighter. Cover 
every part of the trap and chain with old manure, and take es- 
pecial pains in covering the trap with fine grass or rotten wood, 
leaves or feathers, in fact, anything that is light and yielding. If 
one prefers a few drops of anise oil or other decoy may be used 
about the trap. Have known foxes to be attracted three or four 
miles, apparently the wind taking the smell such a distance, and 
where the fox or wolf once snififs the odor he is sure to locate the 
bait and of course becomes caught. The manure has a tendency 
to overcome the human scent, and again, manure piles, such as 
above described, are natural signs to the animal. 

N. C. 
Trapping the Fox. 

Mr. Patrick Laughrey, West Broughton, Canada, uses the 
following method in trapping foxes: To trap the fox I use a 
No. 4 B. & L. trap. I usually provide a place to set these traps 
two or three weeks or a month before time to trap. My favorite 
place is to go to a small stream or spring and choose a place 
where there is no bank ; take a hoe and dig a place in the side for 
trap, so that the water will be one and one-half inches deep 
when trap is set. Place some sod on pan so as to be level with 
the remaining shore. Then I procure another piece of sod that 
has long grass on. This I place about twelve inches from the 
shore in the water. The sod should protrude a little above the 
water. After making everything natural, I leave the place. In 
a few days I return and place the bait on the little island and 
within the tall grass. It is a good policy to sprinkle water all 
over the set before you leave it the fir<?t day. Any bait will do, 
but I prefer that made as follows : 

"Take a quart screw-top jar, into which put the carcass of a 
muskrat finely cut up. Also the fat of a skunk and their scent 
bag and the entrails of three field mice. Screw on cover, not 
too tight and then bury the can in a pile of manure which has 
heated for three weeks, and leave it for several weeks ; then it 
is ready to use. I usually take a clean stick and smear part of 
this mixture on the grass or lay some of it between the grass 
on the sod. I assure the trappers that this is a very good bait. 
Caught twenty-seven foxes last season." 

Trapping the Fox. 

Sir Reynard has not only a very fine scent, but is an exceed- 
ingly acute observer. He notices everything that has been moved 



306 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 



or laid amiss and cautiously steers clear of all objects that have 
the least suspicious look ; yet for all this, he can be easily trapped 
in several different ways. By using judgment, and exercising 
patience, and as the object of this article is to tell how that can 
be done successfully, I will not dwell on his peculiar character- 
istics further than is necessary to tell how he can be caught. 

One way to bait traps for red foxes is with live rabbits. Make 
a chain two and one-half or three feet long out of small wire. 
Put a small leather strap in one end and buckle or tie this around 
bunnie's neck. Drive a stake in the ground where the fox is in 
the habit of passing and fasten the other end of the chain to the 
top of the stake, which should be on a level with the ground to 




SCREENED ROOSTER TRAP. 

An original practical and worthy contrivance, suitable for capturing 
mink, fox, wolf and other similar sized animals. If this contrivance is placed 
where wolves, foxes and minks are very numerous, it is well to set ad- 
ditional traps. A snare properly placed immediately at the opening may 
also be effective, but should be used only in connection with the spring pole. 
Newhouse No. 1 to No. 2 traps are recommended. 

keep the rabbit from winding the chain up. Set one-half dozen 
steel traps far enough from the stake that the rabbit cannot 
throw them. When Mr. Fox sees bunnie hopping around, he 
forgets all danger and makes a rush. In his effort to get the 
rabbit, he gets in the trap. This method has .its drawbacks, as it is 
difficult to keep a rabbit alive after the second night, if tied by 
the neck. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 307 

Another way of baiting for the red fox, is to go to some 
stream, where they are in the habit of travelling on the ice. 
Take a half rabbit, split open lengthwise, and nail or tie it to a 
stump, log, root, or perpendicular bank, with the lower end 
resting on the ice. As soon as the ice is sufficiently strong, 
set a steel trap on the ice in front of the rabbit. The first snow 
that falls, the fox will take to the ice, stop at your rabbit and get 
his foot in the trap. It does not matter if there is nothing left of 
the rabbit except the hide and bones. 

Another very good method is to go to some stream where they 
are in the habit of travelling on the ice. Find a rock that pro- 
trudes a few inches above the surface, or a log that lays length- 
wise up and down the stream, and half above the water. Set 
a trap at the upper and lower sides of the rock, or at the ends 
of the log. Then wait until it snows. Foxes almost invariably 
walk over the top of any object that raises above the level of the 
ice when it is covered with snow. A small log can be placed on 
the ice for this purpose, after it freezes and before it snows. The 
log should always point up and down the stream. 

Still another very successful method is to find some den or 
hole where they are, or where they are likely to congregate 
during the running or mating season. Set your traps clear out- 
side the hole, where he will have to walk up to look in. Then 
wait until it snows. Foxes examine these places especially right 
after a snow fall. Then if you have your traps set, you get 
Mr. Fox. Foxes seldom go into these dens, except the females 
after the mating season is 0"\7er. But they all visit these places, 
just before, during, and just after the mating season. 

When trapping for foxes, I always use a common No. 1J/2 
trap. I always fasten a trap that I set for a fox with wire or a 
grape vine, ten, twelve or fifteen feet away from the trap and 
two or three feet from the ground to a springy bush. Never go 
to a trap that is set for a fox, unless it is absolutely necessary, 
until you catch the fox. Pass bv near enough to see if all is 
right. Let well enough alone. Have patience and you will be 
successful. E. G. Alldredge, 

Russellville, Mo. 
Trapping the Fox. 

"I first locate their haunts, then when trapping season is 
about in (around December ist), I take a little straw or hay and 
pile it up, say fifty or one hundred yards from their dens or 
passes, and burn it. Let it lay two or three days until the burnt 
smell is gone, then set your traps in the ash pile, as many as 
you like. I use No. 15^ Newhouse traps and find they are large 
enough for fox and smaller game. Put ash piles about four or 



308 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



six feet square and five or six inches deep. This makes a good 
set in all kinds of weather. Set three or four traps in ashes about 
one or two feet apart and fasten about two traps each to a little 
pole or stone just big enough so they can move it a little; in this 
way they are not so apt to get loose. Set traps in form of circle 
in the ash pile and bait with chicken in centre of ashes, cover- 
ing your trap lightly with ashes, also your drag or weights. 
Then strew some feathers around ash pile and over traps, using 
caution not to spit or make too many tracks around your sets, 
as Mr. Fox has a cute nose, in fact, he is cute all over ; when 
set is made brush all tracks over with brush or weeds and leave 
very carefully for Mr. Fox's inspection. He will come when the 
weather gets cold and stormy, and you will get him sure ; try it, 
boys. 




• •-■ ■.■y'mr. 

CONCEALED STEEL TRAP. 

The above is an excellent set for fox, raccoon, also aquatic animals. 
Set one or two traps on some artificial island, 16 to 18 inches from the 
shore,, cover in usual manner and place bait on a stick 18 to 20 Inches 
above the set. Attach chain to spring pole or drag. One or more steel 
traps can be concealed at the nearest approach to the island from which 
the fox usually jumps to obtain a foothold upon the i-sland. If clog is used 
same must be buried. 

"I have had good luck with this kind of sets, catching twenty 
odd each winter for the past three winters. Try it, using care in 
making your sets, and you will have success in catching fox on 
the prairies of the Northwest." R. B. A. 

Trapping the Fox. 

Mr. Martin Brenner, a Minnesota trapper, favors us with 
the following: 

"I have trapped foxes, minks, wolves, etc., in Beltrami county, 



A.idersch Bros/ Hunlers and Trappers Guide. 309 



Minnesota, and I must admit lliat there is no grander sport than 
the trapping of foxes. 

"But, before continuing n.v narrative, I must say a word 
or two about myself. I an: an old trapper and woodsman 
with considerable practice. 

"In the fall of 1899 1 foui.d myself, together with a hunting 
party, in Beltrami county, and there I saw 'signs' which led me 
to believe that I could find no better place for my winter 
trapping. 

"I at once sent for a supply of traps, ammunition, etc., and 
set to work on a cabin. It was slow work, and it was Novem- 
ber 15th before it was ready. I then received a goodly supply 
of traps, ammunition and provisions. 

"I now began cutting logs and building log traps, which, as 
all woodsmen know, was also very slow work. By November 
25th I had built eight log traps, seven feet square at the bottom, 
tapering to four feet square at the top, and five or six feet high. 
I did this work almost foi nothing, as I caught only one fox in 
them all. 

"But log traps were not my only resource. I had ordered two 
dozen mink traps, one dozen fox traps and one dozen otter traps 
with teetn. These latter, though the most expensive, proved also 
the most effective. 

"I set traps around the carcasses of foxes and sprinkled there- 
on a few arops of oil of rhodium and oil of bergamot, mixed 
half and half. These oils have a wonderful attraction for foxes, 
wolves, minks, etc., and I once caught four foxes around a fox 
carcass — all within a week. 

"I also caught a great many foxes by setting traps in their 
holes. I first smeared blood on the traps, and after setting them, 
sprinkled water all around. 

"That winter I caught twenty-seven red foxes, nine cross 
foxes, nine young foxes, four wolves and seventeen minks. I 
shot one red fox, one mink, and a number of rabbits and other 
animals, which I used for food. 

"By shipping the furs to the best fur establishments in Min- 
neapolis I realized nearly twice what I could have got in towns 
near where I camped." 

Trapping the Fox. 

The following fox set has been used by me for the last 
three years and is original as far as I know. Am also sending 
you herewith two photos. Have had good success with this 
earth set and I recommend it to your consideration. 

This set can be made in a pasture, fields or in woodland. 
Choose places as free from small stones as possible; when there 



310 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

are stones, they should be carefully picked out, as they are very 
apt to catch between the jaws of the trap and prevent them 
shutting close. 

The sod and stones should be removed from a place eighteen 
inches in diameter and with a hoe, or some tool, dig, chop, and 
work the dirt until you have it fine, and free from all roots, 
sticks, etc., to a depth of six inches. The finer the dirt, the 
better. Have a piece of cloth of some sort three or four feet 
square to put sods, stones, etc., on. When the bed is finished 
take up the cloth by the four corners and carry away to a dis- 
tance, say ten rods, and dump in some inconspicuous place. 

Beds should be made several days before setting traps. In 
placing the trap, set it at a distance; have everything you will 
need with you; walk directly to bed. Dig a hole in the center 
deep enough to hold grapple, chain and trap. Place the creeper 
with one prong down on bottom of hole and press down till the 
other two prongs lie flat on bottom, coil chain top of creeper, put 
in a little dirt, and bed trap firmly in this. Put a little paper, 
leaves, or something over trap to keep out loose dirt, then gently 
level over the whole trap, about one-half inch of dirt. Smooth 
the whole bed level with bush or stick; drop four or five drops 
of decoy six or eight inches from, and on each side of trap. 
Now pass straight on to next trap. Do not move the feet, or 
step about, while making the set. Walk up, stop, and stand still 
while you work. All movements leave signs that are hard to 
efface. 

Decoy : To one ounce of pure, home-made trout oil, add 
ten or twelve drops of skunk musk, and the scent glands of two 
or three muskrats (males, and must be taken in the springtime). 

When tending traps, go only near enough to see that every- 
thing is all right. If trap is gone, there will be a distinct hollow 
in bed. The B. & L. No. 3 or 4 is especially good for this set. 

L. J. Wright, 
Collinsville, Conn. 
Trapping the Fox. 

In order to trap foxes in snow, you must first find where 
they travel or the places where their traces are most numerous. 
Look up and down old wood roads, and in and around swampy 
places. When you are sure you have found where they frequent 
most, follow along their tracks until you come to a small bush 
or tree twenty or thirty feet away from their path. Notice the 
bush and the surroundings carefully so you can find it when 
you come to set your traps. As soon as you feel a snow-storm 
coming, take three or four Blake & Lamb traps, and a hen, or 
leg of a horse or cow, and cut some limbs four to six feet long 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 311 

with the branches about three inches long to fasten your trap 
chain to for a drag. Go to the bush and tie your bait securely 
about twelve inches from the ground and about ten feet away set 
your traps forming a circle. Dig out the snow just deep enough 
to set your trap in. Put large, dry leaves in the bottom of the 
trap hole and set the trap on top, also put leaves on top of trap 
and brush just enough snow over it to cover lightly. Cover the 
chain and lay clog or drag in the snow out of sight. Set your 
traps about ten feet apart, forming a circle around the tree. 
Now about one hundred feet away put a few drops of scent on 
some old dry limb, up as high or higher than your head if 
you can. 

Take some muskrat's musk, and mix it well with foxes' 
musk and honey. This is a good scent. 

Now, when the snow comes, it will cover your traps, and 
tracks, and the scent will entice the foxes in there, and when 
they are there, they will be attracted by the bait. If they are 
hungry, they will walk around and around it, coming closer each 
time around, and are very liable to step in one of the traps. At- 
tend your traps about every other day and don't go any closer to 
the traps than you can help. The farther you keep off, the 
quicker you will catch foxes. Take plenty of time in fixing your 
traps, and use care about smoking and spitting around or near 
the setting. Ed. Brehmer, 

Spring Valley, Minn. 
Trapping the Fox. 

L. M. Pickens, Mooresville, Tenn., writes: "For trapping 
foxes around pastures and fields, the following method can be 
relied upon, and is familiarly known as the path method : 

"Look for fox tracks in stock paths, about the fields, pastures 
and woods, old roads not much used, places under fences, gullies 
and washouts, sand-bars along the streams, and chances are you 
will see fox tracks going and coming. Then select narrow places 
and dig a pit just the size of trap to be used, having the springs 
laid lengthwise in the path or trail — not across it — just deep 
enough so the trap will be a little below the surface level when 
put in the pit. Cover over the springs and around the outside of 
jaws with soft dirt, put wool, cotton, or soft dry moss inside of 
jaws and under pan, or lay flat leaves, thin paper or a small 
piece of cloth over entire trap, then pulverize fine some dirt and 
sprinkle enough over the trap to entirely conceal it, always fin- 
ishing to look natural as before the set was undertaken. Com- 
plete the set by laying a dead weed an inch or two from the trap 
so the fox will step over it and into the trap. Fasten your chain 
with bailing wire to the middle of a green cut limby brush, the 



312 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



size and length of a hoe handle, and conceal the chain. No bait 
to be used." 

Trapping the Fox. 

"Here is my method of catching and trapping the red fox. 
It may seem queer, but nevertheless it is very effective. 

"Take a common house cat — whether it is your v^rife's pet 
or not, doesn't make any difference. Tie a wire around the 




5 Red Foxes 



Excellent Result 

Courtesy of Nat. Sportsman 



cat's neck, either before you kill it or after the cat is dead. Then 
roast the cat with the skin on over an outside fire until the cat 
is fairly roasted, being brown and juicy. Then insert in a sack 
and carry it until you are in the vicinity of the place that you 
anticipate setting your trap. Then drag the bag in various di- 
rections about the trap, and proceed to make a hole about 
six inches deep, into which insert the cat, leaving part outside. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Gttide. 313 

Cover portions below the surface with earth and make a 
small mound around the other portion, leaving an opening in 
the centre, so as to make the appearance similar to a gopher hole. 
Now take two No. 2 steel traps, fasten to a stick driven in the 
ground or to a clog, both covered up and made invisible. Place 
one trap over the hole, covering up both springs and placing a 
little dirt on pan. The other trap set on windward side. The 
fox will go at bait from that side. Remember to cover the trap 
up and leave the surroundings very smooth, so as to be natural. 
In case of snow, don't go near the trap until it is sprung unless 
you have reasons to believe that the setting is not proper or 
frozen under. The trap might not be touched for some few days, 
but generally the fox seeks the bait after a little snow. 

"In my time I have caught over one hundred red foxes — 
nineteen of them last year. My fifteen years' experience cer- 
tainly amounts to something. Tell your friends about it, but 
don't use my name." 

Trapping the Fox. 

"I thought I would write a little of my experience in hunt- 
and trapping the fox," writes Mr. A. Carpenter, of Witoka, 
Minn., "as I have made it a business for several years past, and 
know something about their habits. 

"I have made a business of still hunting without any dog, and 
have made good success of it in the Southeastern part in the 
State of Minnesota, where the foxes are very plentiful in the 
bluff country along the Mississippi River and Root River Val- 
leys ; both red and grey foxes are found here. 

'T start in the morning after a new snow and go out over 
the hills until I strike a fresh fox track. Then follow it until have 
got on the bluffs, for no care is needed in being quiet while the 
fox is running on the flat. There is where he goes to hunt 
for mice, of which he is very fond, especially the common meadow 
mole or grass mole, which also makes very good bait to use in 
trapping. This is also a safe bait to put out with poison in, as dogs 
will not touch it. The right amount of poison to use is about 
one dram bottle to six baits, if moles are used for bait. As the 
mouse will freeze very hard, it takes more poison to do the work 
quickly, and if that amount is used he won't go over 40 rods 
from where he eats the bait. I killed 55 last winter this way. 

"But to go on with hunting the fox. After he leaves the flat 
and goes on the hill or brush, then some care is needed in going 
still, and if you see the fox is walking you can make up your 
mind the fox will not go much further before he lies down ; and 
he is almost sure to He down in a bunch of red grass or in hazel 
brush, if there is any to be found, and always on the south side 



314 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



of the bluff or point. If there is neither brush nor grass, he is 
pretty sure to he down behind some small stone, with his back 
against it so he can't be seen from the lower side of the hill 
and so he can watch the upper side and his back tracks. Conse- 
quently, lots of care is needed to move quietly, for they are very 
quick to hear and very cunning. I have knowTi a man to walk 
up within two or three rods of one and then scare him up and 
yet never see him sneak away in almost clear ground for 20 rods, 
and without the hunter knowing that he had frightened him away. 
If he lies down on the point, which he is quite apt to do, he will 
always lie down with his nose pointing down hill, and it is eas- 
ier to get up to him by coming down the point on him. 




UNCOVERED STEEL TRAP SET. 

An easily constructed contrivance, having a live rooster, hen, squirrel 
or rabbit for bait. If properly made and placed no better all-around set exists 
for capturing the barnyard thief, as well as raccoon, skunk, mink, and is 
suitable for all animals possessing carnivorous habits. The steel traps 
should be covered, also the clog. Use No. l^^ Newhouse traps. If set for 
wolves or foxes, a larger size trap must be used. 

"In trapping them the best way is to take a sack of oat straw 
or chaff and throw down in their paths or where they run fre- 
quently, and after it has been there for a week or so, the foxes will 
be sure to come there to play and look for mice. You want to set 
the traps in the chaff and cover them and the clogs with i:haff, 
and you will be sure to catch some foxes this way. Powdered 
fetty is a very good thing to put on the traps and around the 
chaff, as they like the smell of it. About the first of January 
catch a female fox and cut the entire sexual part, which smells 
very strong and drag it along over traps and around the bait, and 
the male fox will be sure to follow it. 

"Well, I have written about all the main points I have found 
out through experience in my hunting and trapping the fox for 



^ Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 315 

the last six or seven winters, and what I write here I know to be 
true and I hope it will prove to be of some value to my fellow 
friends." 

Trapping the Fox. 

Mr. G. Halvorson, of Arvilla, writes that he has been very 
successful in trapping. Read what he says below : 

"Have been very successful in trapping foxes. Procure a dead 
horse or colt, drag it to a place where red foxes are known to 
roam. Leave it there for a time until you have evidence of foxes 
partaking therefrom. Then is the time to set your traps about 
the animal; attach each trap to a clog or drag (must not be too 
heavy). Cover with weeds, grass and snow. I'll bet my farm 
that a No. i imitation Newhouse trap will not hold him every 
time. 

"Other times when setting traps, I use ashes from burnt 
wheat straw. I take a piece of newspaper, just enough to cover 
the trap, and sprinkle ashes about one inch on the paper which 
covers the steel trap. On top of this I take snow and just suffi- 
cient to make everything look natural. 

"I've caught foxes in traps set in a pile of ashes. They come 
to a burnt straw stack because large numbers of mice are gen- 
erally found there, and these the foxes eat with a relish." 

Trapping the Fox. 

Elsewhere will be found his article on skinning the r;d fox. 

Note the article below from G. Miller, of Conway, about 
red foxes. 

"The trap should be well smeared with blood or beeswax to 
destroy the odor of the iron. Set it in soft earth, packing moss 
or leaves lightly around the pan and jaws. Bait with fried meat. 
To make the allurement doubly sure, obtain from the female of 
the dog, fox or wolf the matrix in the season of coition and pre- 
serve it in alcohol, tightly corked. Leave a small portion of \* 
on something near the trap, also when visiting the traps put 
some on your boots. 

"Another method is to make a bed of chaflf in the open field in 
a locality the fox frequents, but when it will be least likely to be 
visited by passing hunters. Visit it daily and stir into chaff 
every old scrap of meat made fine or toasted cheese, using utmost 
caution not to clringe the appearance of the bed or its surround- 
ings, and make as few tracks as possible. The materials of which 
the bed is composed should not be handled any more than is ab- 
solutely necessary. Too much care cannot be taken in making 
the beds, for if foxes are plenty and you get several to visit it, 



316 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

it will last for sometime and will afford you a great deal of amuse- 
ment. As soon as you are satisfied the fox has visited the bed 
regularly for five or six nights, you may put in your trap. It 
should be fastened to a clog light enough for a fox to drag, but 
heavy enough so that he cannot get too far away, though if there 
is no snow on the ground there will be some difficulty in finding 
him if he goes some distance. He may be caught the first night, 
but more likely than not, will dig out your trap or show his con- 
tempt in some other way, compelling you to bring into force all 
your ingenuity before your efforts are successful." 

Trapping the Fox. 

J. Stephen, of Hart, writes the following on foxes : 

"I will give you my two best methods of catching Reynard, 
The Fox. 

"First find a place in\he woods where there is a fox run-way 
and follow it until you come to a small knoll or where there has 
been a tree turned out and rotted away ; then as a fox most al- 
ways leaps over it, set your trap just under the snow on the oppo- 
site side, and as he jumps over he is quite likely to jump into 
one of your traps (it is a good plan to have about three). 

"Another good method is to take about four good traps (I 
'use Newhouse), and go where there has been something killed 
(the slaughter house is a good place), and soak your traps in the 
blood. Then take a hen (one that is dead will do), and drag 
it along the trail until you come to where he goes through some 
bushes. Then hang the hen up by a wire around her head ; set 
your traps under the snow, or under the ground, and cover them 
with leaves or grass so that all looks natural. When the fox 
comes along he sees the hen ; he lies down on the ground about 
five minutes and watches the hen, then jumps for her neck, which 
he gets, and the hunter gets the fox." 

Trapping the Fox. 

From Sherwood Shattuck, of Pepperell, Mass., we have the 
following : 

*T find the senses of foxes are acute, especially those of hear- 
ing and of smell ; their limbs are exceedingly pliant, and their tail 
is so flexible that they can roll it around their nose. They are 
shy, cautious, exceedingly cunning and patient. 

"This is the way I catch the fox : One of the most attractive 
objects to the four-footed midnight marauder is a well-stocked 
hen-roost, and its attractiveness may be turned to good account 
by turning the tables on the fox, mink, skunk, or, indeed, any 
animal that has a constitutional predilection for poultry. The 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 317 

following ingenious but very simple arrangement will be found 
entirely successful in not only fully protecting the chickens, but 
also rendering the capture of the intruder sure. The contrivance 
consists of two parts, independent of the trap. The first is a 
box without a lid, and one of its ends taken out. This is inverted 
as seen in illustration, and a piece of the bottom cut away at 
one end, corresponding in size to the inside measurement of 
another similar, but smaller, box ; this latter is also without lid, 
open at one end (see illustration), and large enough to furnish 
a place for a dead hen. This smaller box constitutes the second 
part of the affair; instead of a lid it is fitted with laths or slats 
across the width, the ends of the slats being secured to elects 
nailed one on each side along inside of the box. To make these 
arrangements available, the larger box is placed on the ground 
inverted, with its open end against and inclosing the entrance 
to the hen-roost — the latter being allowed to remain invitingly 
open. Inside the box, and just facing the entrance, a steel trap 
is placed, set for effective service, and lightly covered with buck- 
wheat shucks. Smoke trap by burning hens' feathers to prevent 
smell of steel, as foxes have a keen scent, as has already been said. 
The chain of the trap is attached firmly to the ground. A 
chicken is next placed inside the smaller box, and this inverted 
exactly over the hole which has been made in the bottom (now 
the top) of the larger box. Any enterprising fox, or other hen- 
roost thief, passing by will take advantage of the open entrance, 
survey with feelings of unmixed satisfaction the chicken over- 
head, take just one step nearer to secure his prey, to find his 
whole energies enlisted in fruitless endeavors to depart, without 
his anticipated feast, his captivity rendered almost unendurable 
by the tantalizing sight of his supper 'so near and yet so far.' 
I use No. 3 Newhouse traps for foxes." 

Trapping the Fox. 

How an Idaho trapper captures the grey fox : 
"Find some trail where the fox is most apt to pass along, 
empty a gallon of wood ashes out in a round pile and set your 
trap in the centre of the pile. The fox is sure to step in the ashes 
for I have never seen it to fail. The only kind of bait I ever 
use for trapping fox is burnt meat skins ; that will attract their 
attention for a long distance. The kind of traps used for fox 
are the No. i^ single spring Newhouse trap; if smaller than 
i^ trap is used don't fasten trap solid, but fasten to small stick 
or block of wood, so when the fox leaps it will give without pul- 
ling off his foot." 



318 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Trapping the Fox. 

"My favorite dry land set for fox is to find some stump or 
some opening V shaped on the bottom, which I carefully clean 
out ; and into which I set my trap. For bait, I generally succeed 
by nailing a piece of meat, such as muskrat or bird at the farthest 
end. Leave the surroundings in the most natural condition and 
always place some cotton or fleecy material beneath the pan. 

My favorite water set for the fox is to find some spring, 
make an artificial island lo to 15 inches from the shore. This 
I sometimes makes as early as July or August. The reason I 







DEADFALL FOR WILDCAT, LYNX, RACCOON, FOX AND WOLF. 

The above log trap is inclosed with sticks driven into the ground, with 
an opening of sufficient size permitting the entrance of wild cat, lynx, rac- 
coon, fox, wolf, and, if log is of sufficient size and weight, for bear. Set 
figure four arrangement with care and place bait on spindle. For bait use 
meat, honey, and, if consistent, smear spindle with some of the preparation 
elsewhere noted in this Guide. 

choose a spring is that the water is about the same level the year 
round. Trap should be set on a flat stone and on top of this 
stone place sod two or three inches thick, but remove sufficient 
to hold trap so that when the trap is covered it is just even with 
the upper part of the sod. Place some soft material below the 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and T rappers Guide. 319 

pan, and cover trap with grass which can be weighted down with 
small quantity of earth. Springs can be covered with a thin layer 
of sod. The entire island thus formed should not be more than 
six to seven inches wide and everything below the water as much 
as possible excepting the pan. For bait I use piece of muskrat 
or bird, freshened up with some fish oil or natural scent of the 
female of the fox or dog. This I place on a stick beyond the 
trap so that the animal in endeavoring to get at the bait places 
his forefeet on the island where the trap is set. 

J. C. O'Reilly. 

Trapping the Fox. 

Another good way to trap Mr. Reynard, especially if he is 
bait shy, is to set a trap near some tree or stump, if you happen 
to find the path of the fox and there is no tree or stump in the 
neighborhood, drive in a stake or a fence post a yard or two from 
the path. Set your trap 14 to 16 inches from the stump, tree or 
stake. Prefer to use two or three traps. 

Now obtain from the dog a quantity of urine, which pour on 
the stake. The fox being of the dog kind, has the same habits 
as the dog, and when passing along will run up to the stake, tree 
or stump to urinate, and of course becomes a victim. If a tree, 
stump or stake is unhandy, use a boulder or flat stone ; the latter 
should be set in the ground edgewise. After you have succeeded 
in capturing one fox, especially if it should be a female, after 
skinning, save the animal's urine, which you will find in the blad- 
der; run it in a bottle and use same at the various places where 
traps are set. E. L. S. 

After you have satisfied yourself of the kind of decoy to 
use, take an auger (^^ to i inch), and start out to where foxes 
are known to run. Ascertain some old stump that has been sawed 
oflf, into which bore a hole and fill with the prepared scent or de- 
coy. This hole is usually bored in center of stump. The fox 
will naturally put his front feet on the stump and endeavor to 
procure the decoy with his mouth or lick same with his tongue. 
The steel trap should be about a foot away from the stump, and 
he will either spring it with his front or hind feet. It is a good 
idea to have numerous sets in a vicinity of this kind, and if a 
stump cannot be found, bore a hole in some log or tree. 

M. C. A. 
Trapping the Fox. 

Many trappers will laugh at me when I tell them that in 
my experience of trapping, on more than one occasion have I 
set my traps upside down. They may look funny, but it is true 
nevertheless. 



320 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



I remember distinctly 12 or 15 years ago the first time I had 
trouble in capturing a fox. I found his den and set a No. 3 trap 
in the usual way, only to find every little while the trap dis- 
turbed, either by being many feet away from the place where it 
was set or turned upside down, and quite a number of times the 
fox watered upon it. The fox on that morning had thrown the 
trap on one side of the hole and evidently had tried to cover it 
up with earth. I asked an old grey-headed trapper what to do, 
and he told me to set the trap upside down in the locality where 
I had set it previously, and sure enough the next morning the 
trap held the front foot of a red fox. Of course I did not see 
how he disturbed the trap, but I reasoned that he uprooted the 
trap with his nose and then pawed it away. There was no sign 
on the animal that he was captured before. Have heard other 




STONE DEADFALL. 

This arangement was used by our forefathers, and history records its 
use many hundreds of years ago. It is very simple, and if properly arranged 
becomes one of the surest methods of killing small animals that we know of. 
Now sparingly used. 

trappers say that occasionally they have the same trouble with 
mink, and by turning the traps upside down, are able to capture 
them. Have set Newhouse traps over a hole with pan down- 
wards and more than once caught mink that way. Would re- 
commend trappers who have experienced like trouble to try this 
method. 

Will Hendricks. 

TRAPPING THE WOLF OR COYOTE. 

"I will relate a successful way to trap the coyote," writes Mr. 
Lothamer, a Canadian trapper residing at Heather Brae. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 321 

"The coyote is a very cautious animal, and is hard to trap, 
yet he can be caught in several different ways. The trap should 
be hid in a small pile of ashes or leaves, and should be smeared 
with lard or blood. Fasten the trap to a small clog or log, so 
that he can move about when caught. Obtain from the female 
of the dog, the matrix, in the season of coition, and preserve it 
in alcohol, tightly corked, when it can be had. Leave a drop here 
and there around the trap and put some on your shoes when vis- 
iting the traps. Take a piece of raw flesh and draw it in several 
directions from the trap and squeeze the blood out every little 
while. Leave everything as natural as possible near and around 
your traps. 

"Here is another method. Find a place in the woods or in 
the brush where the coyote has made a trail and set your trap 
in it. Then hang a piece of meat off to one side of your trap to 
draw his attention away from the trap. The reason why I hang 
the meat to one side is because a coyote never goes directly to 
the bait, but circles around it first, and in making the circle will 
naturally follow his old trail, at the same time keeping his eye on 
the meat, and walks into your trap. Use your ow.i judgment 
to advantage, and you will be successful. Use Ne»vl ouse traps 
No. iy2 or No. 2." 

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

We quote a trapper, H. Miller, living at Redding, Cal., who 
writes an article on the coyote : 

The coyote is a very shy animal, and it requires considerable 
care and attention in setting the traps. This is one of my plans 
and is nearly always successful if the coyote is pretty hungry. 
I first find out about where he runs ; then take the entrails or any 
part of the sheep, deer or goat (entrails from hogs will sometimes 
do). Select a place where there are a few brush, near a trail or 
road ; fasten if you can the bait to the bottom of a tree or spread- 
ing bush ; fix a pen with brush on both sides of bait and joining 
the tree at the end ; must be old brush, make no new work that 
will show when brush is in shape. Then set our trap about four 
feet from bait and near the entrance of the pen ; cover nicel\ 
and leave no part of the trap in sight. Chain can be fastened 
to the butt end of a large limb or bush sunk in the ground so a^ 
to admit of being smoothly covered. Pen should be about a fcot 
wide at the entrance. If work is done well and trap rightly set, 
when he comes — whatever he is — and is hungry, you will catch 
him. No need of smoking traps to catch such animals ; that is 
nonsense. 

"I have tried all plans in my 13 years of tictpping and can 
safely say that I never could see that smoking or huidling with 



322 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



gloves did any good, as the scent on traps will go away of its 
own accord in a few days. This plan is the best I have found 
when meat for bait is used." 

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

"In trapping for wolves," writes Mr. Chamberlain, "take en- 
trails of a hog or beef to a place where you know wolves fre- 
quent, and throw upon an ant-hill or some mound, and set steel 
traps about 3 to 6 feet away on some other high elevation if pos- 
sible. The wolf will go around and around the bait, sniffing and 
gradually reaching closer and closer, until he gets caught. At- 
tach chain to a 5-pound, not heavier than lo-pound clog." 
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

The way I trap wolves is to find where they hang out. One 
will find them near some river, creek or lake. Horse manure or 
old barn yard litter will take away the scent of traps. I cover 
traps with manure or chaff. To attract wolves, I kill some ani- 



, .!■ -„> ^^-V"-)^ . . 










PITFALL. 

Suitable for prairie wolves. Set traps 15 to 30 inches beyond pit, attach 
30 -pound weight to chain and arrange weight upon pegs driven into the sides 
of pit. Attractive live bait is preferable to dead carcasses. The victim afte- 
springing trap will release weight which with the animals falls into pit. 

mal and roast the carcass ; this is done at the place where I expect 
to set my traps. The carcass will roast and smoulder for quite 
a while and the odor therefrom is smelled by the fox or wolf 
at a great distance and I am sure will attract these animals for 
niiles. Before starting the fire, have your traps set in the man- 
ure and hide them in the usual way. Where there are plenty of 
wolves I set from four to six No. 4>4 wolf traps about the bait. 
My reason for using No. 4>4 traps is on account of the long chains 
and pronged drag. If a wolf springs the trap he will try to get 
away and in the space of time will become tangled up. The trail 
made by these pronged hooks is very easy to follow. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 323 

The wolf is a cunning rascal and very suspicious when he de- 
tects any artificial arrangement. At the same time he is so in- 
quisitive that he will shortly investigate everything and will come 
to the same place right along for a period of weeks. If you cannot 
prepare a roast for the wolf obtain fish ; these even if Dadly de- 
cayed are better than if fresh. The stronger the scent the greater 
the distance it will be carried by the wind. I never go to my 
traps on foot, usually look over the line on horseback. The ad- 
vantage of placing such a set upon some slightly elevated place, 
especially during a snow storm, is to be taken into account. I pre- 
fer to place such sets close to cattle trails. 

I hope the brother trapper will get many pelts and enrich 
his pocketbook by the bounty which the state oflfers. 

Chas. H. Zeigler. 

"In a level country it is sometimes more difficult to set traps 
during the winter months when snow is drifting and the wind 
has sufficient power to disturb even haystacks as well as piles 
of manure that may be hauled in the open prairie. In starting 
out to trap wolves, I pay particular attention to my traps. In- 
stead of smoking them I use a compound made out of tallow, 
spruce and cedar needles. These I boil up together and then pour 
contents into a fruit jar. When I have located place that the 
wolf frequents, I drive or ride in the vicinity where I intend to set 
my traps and scatter a few branches smeared with this prepara- 
tion. My favorite place is to set traps around a straw or hay 
stack. In a few days thereafter I take the stomach or intes- 
tines of some calf, sheep, hog or beef, and throw it close to the 
stack. I now take two No. 4 or 43^ double spring traps and set 
thern 12 to 14 inches on the outside of the bait. These traps 
are set level with the ground, and concealed with earth, rotten 
wood, etc. The chains are securely fastened to some old limb, 
or loose fencepost. The latter makes an excellent drag. If traps 
are skillfully set and concealed and if there are any wolves or 
foxes in the neighborhood, you will get them. Do not be dis- 
appointed if you are not successful the first few days, as the fox 
and wolf are both suspicious and sometimes will loiter in the 
vicinity for hours at a time and two or three days before they will 
approach the bait. 

The funniest experience that I have had was in Manitoba 
along the Red River, where two of the aforementioned sets were 
placed on the opposite sides of a haystack. In one trap I got a 
large bufifalo wolf and in the other a stray dog. During that 
same season and with the same three traps, I caught 6 wolves, 
8 foxes (for one of these skins I received $85.00) and one dog. 

J. R. Barton. 



324 



Anderscli Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

A favorite set is to bury part or all of some dead carcass on 
an elevated mound or hill. From 15 to 20 inches on each side, 
place one or more steel traps, which are to be buried and covered 
in the usual way. Occasionally I place poisoned pellets of meat 
in the immediate vicinity. 

Just before leaving I obtain one or two armfuls of straw, 
which I place four or five feet away from the center of bait, 
start it afire, and just as soon as I am sure the fire is all out, go 
away. The wolf or fox will come the same or next night, and 
if the set is a natural one, he may go to the bait the first day. If 




« V 



BEEF HOIST STEEL TRAP SET. 

This original and unique set has been tried and proven a success. Suit- 
able for all kinds and sizes of animals. Weight must be one-fourth to 
one-third heavier than the proposed victim. When trap is sprung, animai 
pulls trigger, releasing weight which descends and furnishes the power to 
hoist the victim in the trap off the ground. 

not, he will go in two or three days. The wind has a tendency 
to distribute the ashes and by so doing overcomes any and all 
human scent that the trapper may have left. R. B. A. 

Went Fishing For Wolves. 

A Nevada youth, not having any traps, caught many wolves 
by promiscuously baiting three pronged trolling fish hooks with 
small pieces of meat attaching them to ordinary baling wire fas- 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 325 

tened on limbs of trees, so as to hang four feet from the ground. 
The wolf in jumping for the bait snaps just like a dog, and the 
prongs very readily find themselves imbedded in his upper and 
lower jaws. 

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

Coyotes, unlike the wolf, are not very great travelers. Gene- 
rally unless driven out, they remain in the vicinity where they 
were raised, and on their range, are as familiar as a clerk in a 
store. They travel on trails, wherever they lead, in the direc- 
tion they are traveling. It is as natural for them to travel on a 
trail as it is for a cow or horse, because their feet get sore from 
travelling over rough ground covered with rocks. 

Find a cow trail where you see coyote tracks quite often. Lo- 
cate a small bush about 2 to 15 feet from the trail. Now take 
three traps. No. 3 or 4 Newhouse or H. & N. Always use large 
traps, for there is no telling what kind of an animal is going to 
get caught accidentally. Have a grapple on each trap. Now put 
a trap on 3 sides of the bush. Put the grapple of each trap in 
the center of the bush and cover with leaves. Bury each trap 
down level with the ground. Put 2 or 3 grass stems over the 
jaws, then put a piece of paper over the jaws, and cover lightly 
with fine, dry dirt. Treat each trap this way. Everything should 
look so natural that you, yourself, cannot see the slightest altera- 
tion. Now put some cracklings in the center of the bush and 
over all sprinkle fish oil, especially on top of the bush so the wind 
can carry the smell a long ways. A coyote can smell this set if 
the wind is blowing in his direction, for one-half mile and will 
then come straight for it. 

Always use clean buckskin gloves when handling your traps. 
Traps for coyotes should be set horse-back. Take along a piece 
of hide large enough to stand on. Tie a 6-foot rope on it, 
throw this on the ground, step off and set your traps. When 
through, get on your horse, and pull the hide up with the rope. 
If you are trapping in a country where there are deer or ante- 
lope, use their hides in place of a beef hide. This leaves no 
human scent on the ground and fools the smartest coyote. 

The way I make my fish oil is to cut up fish and put them in 
a bottle, cork up and let stand in the sun for two weeks. It is 
then ready for use. 

This is the best set I have ever used and is used by the best 
and most successful trapper in Wyoming, known as Rattle- 
Snake Jack. I have taken 3 coyotes at one set, in one night. If 
this set is used in the vicinity of a dead horse or cow, a person is 
sure of success the first night. Wm. Weibel. 

La Porte, Colo. 



326 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

Will herein give you my experience and method in trapping 
the wily coyote and grey wolf, which are very troublesome to 
the stockmen of the country, or other stock-raising countries. 
The bounties paid for these friendless animals by state, county, 
and stockmen, pay the trappers very well for pursuing them both 
winter and summer. The county bounty, is $6.00, state, $3.00 
and the bounties paid by stockmen in different parts of the state 
vary from $5.00 to $20.00 on a single wolf ; so between the bounty 
and his skin, it is worth while looking after Mr. Wolf. But let 
me tell you, boys, the trapper has to deal with an animal of al- 
most human intelligence and sometimes it seems to be more so 
than that of man. I have, before now, set my traps for wolf 
and on going back afterwards have found the trap taken up and 
thrown out of concealed place, not even being sprung. 




DEADFALL. 

This is a very simple arrangement not much used of late years, but 
formerly used by frontiersmen in the capture of wolves, lynx, wild cats and 
other large animals, even the black bear. Bait should be securely fastened 
to the spindle or on the ground within the enclosure. 

For trapping the wolf, always use the Newhouse No. 4 beaver 
trap. Instead of using a drag, I use an iron pin, 2 feet long, 
driven into the ground out of sight. This is not so heavy to 
pack and does just as well. 

First, have your traps smoked over cedar boughs or feathers 
of any kind. This kills the odor of iron. When setting traps, 
always dig out a hole in the ground about two and one-half 
inches deep to fit a trap, with springs a little bit turned to let jaws 
down even. Now place your trap and cover with a piece of 
paper large enough to cover jaws of trap and cover all with 



Andersck Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 527 

fine, dry dirt one inch deep. Also cover chain and pin. See that the 
latter is just even with the ground. The idea in using paper is 
to prevent dirt getting under the pan of the trap, then when any 
animal steps on the 'pan, your trap is sure to spring. If the dirt 
taken out of the hole is too lumpy, have a sack or something 
to carry the lumps away, and bring good dirt. Leave everything 
looking just as it did before you came. When covering traps, 
never use your bare hand, always have on mittens or gloves and 
brush riway your track, or you will get no wolf. 

This, in my experience, is the best method for catching the 
foxy old wolf. When looking after traps, keep from lo to 15 
rods away, unless you have something in your trap, or it is 
sprung. 

After catching a wolf, always clean and change ygur traps, 
because you will never catch two wolves in one place in this 
country where there are so many cattle. I set my traps in trails 
where cattle go and come from water. I set them at cross trails 
or in forks of trails. This makes lots of work as the cattle often 
spring your traps. Where there are lots of rabbits, cattle and 
stuflf for wolves to eat, no bait is necessary as this would only 
arouse the wolf's suspicion and cause him to walk away. 

Another good way where bait is to be used: Find a place 
where there are a few mounds. Now, conceal your trap as 
before stated on each mound and throw your bait between 
mounds. He is certain to get upon these mounds to look around 
and you will get him, or the trap will. 

When you think a snow storm is near at hand, don't cover 
the traps deep, as the snow makes a good covering with just a 
little dirt under it. 

I think this method of concealing the traps will also answer 
for taking other land animals. But the trapper will have to use 
his own judgment in covering the traps, with regard to the size 
of the animal he expects to capture, as a small animal would 
not spring a trap with so much dirt on it. I have caught skunks 
and badgers in this manner. 

I never use the chains that come with the traps, as they will 
not hold a wolf in cold weather. I remove same and make chains 
from chain tugs, and have same a foot long. 

Robert Roberts, 
Harding Grove, S. D. 

Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

The wolf is the most cunning animal with which the trapper 
has to deal and to trap him successfully takes both care and 
patience, but with my method, I have good success. 



328 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

First, if the traps are rusty or stained, boil them in willow 
bark and water. This will remove any odor, rust or blood. When 
handling, use buckskin gloves. Set the traps where there are 
liigns of wolves. 

I use No. 4 Newhouse traps, and for scent I use, 
I oz. Anise Oil. 
^ oz. Skunk Scent. 
I oz. Essence of the Wolf. 

Mix and apply to pan and spring of traps. 

Now, cover the trap first, by placing a paper over the pan and 
Jaws, then cover with dirt enough to remove all traces of the trap 
and chain. 

For bait, I use squirrel, prairie dog, rabbit, or birds, and alive 
when possible. To fasten the bait, bury a stake in the ground 
and fasten the bait to it by means of a short chain attached by 
one end to the stake and wire the other end to the les: of the bait. 




DEAD FALL TRAP. 






Now, set a trap on each side of the bait, and about six feet 
from it, and when the wolf sees that the bait is fast, he will begin 
to sniff and walk in a circle around it and so get caught. 

I have seldom known this to fail when the wolf came near 
vMiough to see the bait. 

F. Abbot, 

Ft. Pierre, S. D. 
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote, 

In such states where a good bounty is offered it is more 
l>/ofitable to capture young wolves for the reason that they are 
more plentiful and easier captured. When they are three or 
four months old they can be seen going away quite a distance 
from their abode. Then is the time to bring some dead carcass 
In the vicinity and to place No. 2, No. 3 or No. 33^ traps 
thereabouts. Nine times out of ten the mother will be suspicious, 
but she cannot prevent the cubs from nearing the bait, due to 



Anderscli Bros/ Hunters arid Trappers Guide. 329 

their over-zealous desire to satisfy their carnivorous appetites. 
The cubs, as they become captured, will of course make a big 
disturbance, and the mother will approach them timidly. Some- 
times will carry them away, trap and all. On one occasion four 
cubs and three full grown wolves were captured at one setting, 
presumably the larger ones went to the assistance of the cubs 
or probably for pure deviltry. At other times, notwithstanding 
the suffering of those captured, others will come and devour 
parts or all of the bait. 

N. C. A. 
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

The wolf is probably the most cunning animal of the dog 
family. If he was as easily captured and killed as is the buffalo 
he would now be extinct a hundred times. It is a well-known 
fact that a wolf is not as cunning in a new country as he is in 
an old settled community, and he does not feel out of place to 
travel in good society in an old settlement. What methods are 
good in one place may not be worth the paper written on in 
another. 

I was fortunate enough to catch one of the slyest wolves that 
ever lived in southern Minnesota. He was known for years as 
the "three legged wolf" and seemingly had had an encounter 
with a double spring trap years ago. Since then he baffled 
everything in the trap line and no one in the vicinity was able 
to bring him to bait. There was no use to set traps around a 
dead critter; for such, it was better to have kept the traps at 
home as it would have saved many the worry and trouble of look- 
ing after them. I took the bones of an old carcass and hauled 
them out in the open and left them there for some time. Mr. 
Wolf came and smelled round the bones for two or three days 
and then watered upon them. Probably the wolf had no idea 
that a man would be so foolish as to expect him to eat dry 
bones, or that one would place traps thereabouts ; but neverthe- 
less I got him. 

To set your traps when going into a wolf country, drive if 
possible; tie a big piece of meat (lung or liver is good) behind 
your wagon and drag it along. Smear the drag with three parts 
of asafoetida, beeswax one part, and thirty drops of anise oil to 
one pint of mixture. If you get off the wagon smear your soles 
with this preparation, also your gloves. I usually take along a pail 
of blood which I sprinkle in the immediate vicinity in places where 
I set my traps. I also dip the traps in the pail before setting them. 
Traps should be set in some cattle trail near some bush, and if 
possible at some intersection of another trail or road. Traps 
should be covered with leaves and grass and make the setting 



330 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

look quite natural with the surroundings. Occasionally I cover 
my traps with rabbit fur. At other times when the weather is 
real cold, I dip the traps in water and roll them in loose feathers 
or rabbit fur, which of course becomes immediately attached to 
the trap. If the weather continues cold, set this trap in the trail 
without any additional covering. The wolf will come along, 
and ninety-nine times out of a hundred, paws at it. 

Young cubs are easily caught. Place traps around their 
feeding place and if you cannot locate the feecling place, make 
one by bringing some dead carcass there. The cubs are not very 
shrewd and in their over-zealous desire to satisfy their craving 
appetite, they near the bait and of course become a victim. 

Andrew Davidson, 

Bathgate, S. D. 
Trapping the Wolf or Coyote. 

A wolf is the most cautious and keen animal I ever tried to 
trap. A person has to go some in order to fool him. The only 
successful way to trap him is to use a blind set at a dead horse 
or cow, for he will not go near it as long as there are any live 
cattle on the range. A wolf travels in a large circle and manages 
to get around this circle once every four or five days. They 
generally, unless very hungry, lay around in cliffs and washouts 
in the daytime and when night comes, come out of their dens 
and prowl about all night in search of prey. 

Find a place where you see his tracks in a cow trail or old 
deserted road. Watch the place where you have seen his tracks 
and see if they occur there more than once. If they do, you have 
found a place where he travels regularly. Now take five No. 4 
Newhouse or Hawley & Norton traps, with an eight-inch chain 
and a good swivel, and a twelve or fifteen-inch pin if the ground 
is frozen, and if not a twenty-inch pin is none too long. Use 
one pin for each trap. Take a calf, antelope, or deer hide, tie 
a six-foot rope to it. Do not touch the hide or traps with bare 
hands, but use very clean buckskin gloves. They will leave no 
human scent on traps. Now take your traps and hide and get 
on a horse and go where the set is to be made. When the place 
is reached, throw the hide down on the ground, step off on the 
hide. You should also have a small piece of hide, one foot 
square, so you can stand on it with one foot and move the other 
hide to a convenient spot. Under no conditions get off the 
hide, as you will then leave a scent. Take the traps and drive 
the stake of each trap so that when the traps are set they will 
cover about thirteen feet of the trail. The stakes should be 
driven so deep that they will not show. The traps must all be 
buried level with the ground. Put two or three straws over 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters a nd Trappers Guide. 33J. 

the jaws, then a piece of paper. Now cover them with fine dirt. 
Cover enough so the paper will not show. When you are through 
take fine dirt and throw it up in the air so it will light on the 
covered traps. Make everything so natural that it looks no dif- 
ferent where the traps are than it does fifteen feet away from the 
traps in the trail. 

Use no scent. Experience has taught me not to, as it will 
make him suspicious and he will walk around your traps and 
your work is all for nothing. 

When all is ready, get on your horse and pull the hide up. 
Now the next time he walks along you have got him for it is 
impossible for him to walk over this set without stepping in one 
or more traps. This is the only successful set I have ever used 
or have seen used and works when all others fail. 

Wm. Weibel, 

La Porte, Colo. 




332 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



HOW THE BEAR IS HUNTED OR TRAPPED. 

"A Wisconsin lumberman relates an interesting story of the 
capture of a three-year-old black bear without gun or trap. 
and without previous preparation for the capture of bruin. 

The cabin that this bear visited during his nocturnal prowls 
was located in dense forest, near a stream, inhabited by woods- 
men. Being winter, the ground was covered with snow and the 
night of the capture or detention of the thief with his plunder, 
was clear and cold. 

The men were accustomed to see game and carnivorous ani- 
mals not only in the woods, but about the cabin, picking up scraps 




LOG PEN TRAP. 

The old-fashioned log pen trap is still used by hunters and trappers, but 
owing- to the large amount of labor required in its construction only those 
trappers that live far in the interior, chiefly in Canada, Alaska and in 
Siberia, construct them. 

of food that were thrown out from day to day. A small emptv 
pork barrel was rolled out during the day, and no one dreamed 
that this barrel with its many protruding nails would make the 
best kind of a bear trap. The bear, in seeking food, placed his 
head and neck far into the barrel, and being unable to get the 
barrel off by shaking, rolling and tearing through the dense 
bushes, knocking against trees, was obliged through loss of 
blood and exhaustion to give way to the inevitable. When the 
body was found two or three days thereafter it was frozen stiff'. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 333 

and it was necessary to break the barrel to remove it from the 
animal. The barrel being rather small and with its many nails 
did the work. The bear roaming about with such a mask must 
have terrorized all animals in the community. 

Many bears are annually dispatched by Minnesota, Wisconsin, 
Michigan and Canadian woodsmen by the use of an ax, and, as 
a matter of fact, these men much prefer to meet a full-grown 
bear, either in the woods or on denuded land with an ax instead 
of a Winchester rifle. 

While this is true with bears, it is not so with lynx, wild cat 
or other members of the cat family, who pounce upon the victim 
from some lofty place (many times unknown) and in the hunter's 
unpreparedness a hunting knife is about the only weapon in 
close quarters, unless a test of brute strength becomes apparently 
necessary. 

How the Bear is. Hunted or Trapped. 

Bears are probably as much hunted as trapped, in fact, think 
more are captured with the rifle than by steel traps. There is 
probably nothing better than live, noisy, squealing bait to attract 
a bear. Personally I think a small pig would make a dandy bait, 
but up here in Canada the closest one comes to a pig is to get 
some eastern bacon, and this is a better bait for the trapper than 
for bruin. 

If one owns one or more No. 5 or No. 6 Newhouse bear traps, 
he .should proceed to make a V or U enclosure ; either of these can 
be made out of three or four-inch stakes about five feet long : 
drive sharpened end into the ground about two inches apart. The 
opening should not exceed three feet for large bears and two 
and one-half feet for smaller ones. Set trap at entrance, and 
cover in the usual way. Bait should be put well within the 
enclosure, usually in the narrowest part. A little anise oil will 
not hurt. Whether the peculiar, or the strange odor, is the 
attraction, I cannot say, but know from experience that the anise 
oil does the work. Log pens with drop-doors are also being used 
in some parts of Canada, but up here bears are not very plentiful, 
not worth the time to build such strong dens. 

A very good yet peculiar trap arrangement that I saw used 
by a friend of mine trapping in the Blue Mountains in British 
Columbia, and useful not only for bears, but for other large game, 
was a pit with a trap door. The pit was about six by seven feet 
square and five and one-half to six feet deep. The dirt was held 
in place by long stakes driven into the ground. The top was 
covered all up ; in the center he had arranged a trap door, about 
five feet square, hinges on the inner side. The catch was arranged 
to the bait, also if a lever were stepped upon, door would dro]) 



334 Andersch Bros.' Hun ters and Trappers Guide. 

and with it the victim. This pit was in the woods adjoining a 
spring where animals came to water. It was level with the 
ground and the first time that he took me there, I would readiK 
have walked into the trap had he not pulled me back, so well was 
it arranged by him, that no one could perceive the arrangement. 
This was in the summer time, and while there one morning, an 
innocent deer was taken out. He claimed to have caught five 
bears the preceding season. 

4. / ' 




).ii... \> 






BEAR PEN. 



Steel trap is to be set just within entrance. For a set gun arrangement 
bore a hole slantingly into trunk of tree and arrange trigger with a string to 
bait or some artificial treadle. 

In skinning a bear, I always take particular pains not to Ci;t 
the skin and to leave everything including ears, nose, eyes and 
feet with claws complete, attached to hide. One thing I do, 
which perhaps other trappers do not, is to ship the skull of the 
bear along with the skin. The buyer will pay a little more for the 
hide, as he may have some customer who will want to make it into 
a rug and the natural skull is preferred over an artificial one, 
which I understand is made out of plaster paris. 

A. R. Edwards. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 335 

TRAPPING THE RACCOON. 

Southern methods as used by R. W. Riggs in the swamps 
of Louisiana — The bait used and the way to set traps : 

The bait : The castor sacs of a beaver put into a httle alcohol 
to keep it. A little of this put on a stick six inches high and 
placed so that he will have to go over the trap to get it, is a sure 
coon exterminator. Next to that, something good to eat — fish, 
squirrel, persimmons and corn are my favorites, the first two 
preferred. In January and a part of February, I set many traps 
on logs. I look for old logs ; cut in a place for my traps and cover 
with whatever is on the log. Then place two round sticks about 
one inch thick on each side of the trap. On logs I use the 23^ 
Oneida Jump trap, in most other places the No. 2 Newhouse. I 
make mostly water sets and think them the best in this section. I 
set where anything forces the coon to take to the water, at the end 
of a log, behind a tree, by steep banks and like places. But my 
best set is at the clay roots of a tree that has blown down out in 
the water. I fasten all of my traps to a good-sized stake, driven 
into the ground at quite an angle. My stakes are two feet out 
of the water. I put mud on them to make them look old. To 
fasten the traps I slip the chain through the ring and put the loop 
over my stake. Set the trap between the stake and the bank in 
about two inches of water if possible. Cover well and put bait on 
stick eighteen inches above trap. Set around clay roots and you 
will get the coon. 

Trapping the Raccoon. 

"To catch Mr. Raccoon," writes Mr. J. Hight, of Samoth, 
111., "one of the surest and best ways is to hunt at night with 
dogs, a gun, and if the night is dark, a lantern is needed. The 
success and profit in hunting with dog and gun lies in the fact 
that several will be put upon the same tree. I have known as 
many as seven to be found up an oak eating acorns before the 
hard frosts came. When up a tree, if the night is dark hold the 
lantern above your head and imitate the sound of a fighting coon 
or one worried by dogs, by putting the forefinger in the mouth 
and squealing. Zip will look down in the direction of the noise 
and his eyes will shine like balls of fire ; then with a shotgun he 
can be brought down. I have made them jump out of the tree 
with finger in mouth where they were easily caught by the dogs. 
If the moon is bright you do not need a lantern, but you can 
"Moon" Mr. Rack by placing yourself so that the coon is between 
you and the moon. I have shot them on a full moon with a rifle. 

"In trapping, I use the Newhouse No. 13/2 trap and select 
a swamp or slough if I see any sign there. Place the trap 



336 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



under water three or four inches from the edge and secure it 
by a stake driven through the ring in the chain or drive the 
wedge into something the coon cannot drag. I bait by. dropping 
a few grains of white corn in and around the trap, or by placing 
a small piece of white china on the trigger plate. This latter 
seems to have a fatal fascination for Mr. Zip, as it seems he will 
investigate every one he sees. If there are logs in the swamp, I 
look for logs they travel on, which is indicated by their excre- 
ment, being voided on certain logs in crossing. If I set on a log 
above water, I chip out a place large enough to hold the set 
trap. I put in the bottom of this under the trap a piece of chicken 
or bread soaked in syrup or fish, if I can get it. I sometimes 
use the sexual member of the female, also asafoetida. All these 
are good baits, and by using different baits on different traps, 



6av\ Y\^6ViXe.o\ 




HOLLOW LOG DEADFALL. 



The captured raccoon in above illustration tells the story. The bait 
is placed within the log. It is best to leave both ends open, permitting the 
animal to see through. This arrangement is also suitable for mink, marten, 
fox and fisher. 

you can learn a great deal of Ringtail's habits. The best place 
I ever set a trap is on a log, some part of which goes down into 
the water. When he comes to the water he is sure to feel for the 
depth ; there put your trap, log chipped as above, and you will 
get the coon. The coon is a Benjamite, that is, he is left-handed. 
Seventy-five per cent of all I or my companions ever caught were 
caught by the left forefoot. 

"Another good way to catch Zip is with the 'deadfall.' Find, 
as before, the logs they cross the water on, and lay a pole four 
or six inches in diameter across a log, fastened at the other end 
between two stakes withed or nailed together at the proper height. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 337 

To make level, chip a flat place on the end across the log for the 
upright trigger to stand on, fasten a string to the rear end of the 
'fair pole, let it be secured to the upright trigger, being drawn 
tight enough that a slight push on the string will throw the trap. 
Use triggers similar to the figure 4 triggers, the string being 
the long trigger. Or I sometimes use a small switch about three 
feet long for a long trigger. The poles must be weighed by 
crossing poles above the log, which will compel cooney to go 
between tlie poles, push the string and die. Deadfalls cost no 
money, and there will be no gnawing the foot ofif or pulling out 
and getting away. 

"Another simple device used in the swamps of Illinois is 
the two-inch auger hole, bored three inches deep with four horse- 
shoe nails, driven slanting so that one-quarter of an inch of the 
points will be in the hole ; put sugar, frog, fish or broken china 
in the hole, and when coon tries to withdraw his foot he is caught. 

"One other thing I forgot to mention in the beginning of 
this article, is in hunting with dogs, if I cannot 'shine' his eyes, 
I build two or three bonfires under the tree, which will make it 
so light that the whole body of the coon can be seen, and shot. 
This is better than cutting timber and paying fines. This has 
been my experience." 

Trapping the Raccoon. 

Mr. Chamberlain, a South Dakota trapper, writes "that in 
trapping raccoons, he always sets traps at foot of a tree, and 
securely nails a bird or rabbit about two and one-half feet above 
the trap on the tree, so that the raccoon has to get upon his hind 
legs to get the bait. By the animal tramping about he will get 
into the steel trap. I use a clog of about three to five pounds, 
unless you can arrange to fasten trap to limb of tree, so that when 
trap is sprung it will lift the victim up in the air." 

Trapping Raccoons and Stretching. 

I herewith give you my method of trapping the raccoon and 
stretching the skin: First go along the sloughs and look for 
their tracks and set your traps in the edge of the water: cover 
them uo with a little thin mud. Drive a stake a little distance 
back of your trap on top of which place a small piece of honey, 
and I assure you if you have a trap strong enough to hold him, 
he will be there when you go back. 

Now for the skinning and stretching: First lay the coon on 
his back. Rip across back part of hind legs from one end to 
the other: then across from one fore-paw to the other: then rip 
straight through center of bellv to chin and take off hide. Lav 
the hide on a table and stretch it both ways with yotir hands, until 



338 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



you get it a little longer than it is wide. Straighten out legs, 
then cut ofif hind legs even with the hide ; sew up the upper edges 
of fore-leg along side of the skin that comes off the lower jaw. 
Cut sticks about one foot longer than the hide ; take darning 
needle (large size best) and common wrapping twine and sew in 
the same as a woman sews a quilt in the frames. Take dry sticks 
(about size of little finger) — dead hedge sprouts are good as they 
are stiff. Trim off thorns ; when the side sticks are sewed in 
well, which must be stitched about one inch apart, cut your end 
sticks with a "V" shaped notch in each end so they will not slip 
out. Cut long enough so as to be fairly tight, but not tight 
enough to make the hide wider than it is long. Place lower one 
just below the end of the hide, sew in same as side sticks ; place 
top stick in just above and across the ears ; sew hide to stick 




from outside toward center until you reach the neck which sew on 
each side alike. Now, put on the stretcher sticks, one on each 
side running lengthwise the hide. Split a hole in end of nose 
and hang up. Take a coarse comb and comb the hair down nice 
and straight, taking out all burrs, mud, etc. Put all sticks in 
on the flesh side of the hide. 

Ira Braden, 
Beardstown, III. 

Trapping the Raccoon. 

An Ohio trapper gives his method of capturing raccoon in the 
following two paragraphs : The raccoon is not a hard animal to 
trap. If I have occasion to believe that a raccoon is in a given 
vicinity, I pass along the shores of creeks and rivers and am 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 339 

always on the lookout for signs. Should I come across a log 
that is partly under water and extending to the shore, I take 
my hatchet and chop an opening large enough in which to set a 
No. I, No. 13^ or No. 2 trap. This I cover up with leaves and 
moss, and to keep the wind from blowing the leaves or moss 
off, I usually load them down with sand or dirt. If the water is 
of sufficient depth I arrange chain to a large stone so as to pull 
the raccoon into the water where he will drown. A few drops of 
anise on top of the moss or along the log is an attraction. 

At other times I place the trap within four to five inches of 
water, placing a shining piece of nickel or tin on pan of trap. 
The raccoon seeing the reflection of the mirror-like object, will 
come and investigate it, and most likely when he attemps to dis- 
turb the mirror with his paw he will spring the trap and find 
himself a prisoner. The chain I always attach to the limb of some 
tree, or piece of wood, and if convenient I use the spring pole. 
If the trap is staked fast the raccoon is likely to twist until he 
gets his foot out, or have seen cases where the foot or paw is 
left in the trap. For that reason I prefer a large limb that the 
raccoon can drag awav and enables me to follow the trail. 

R. B. A. 
Trapping the Raccoon. 

We have the following article from William Plummer of 
Rochester, Minnesota : 

"Three years ago I went to trapping on a small scale. I 
borrowed a few traps from my neighbor. No. i and ij^, having 
located several dens in the rocks on the south side of a bluflF. 
Coons will always go into rockv dens for winter quarters in 
preference to anywhere else. Well, I set my traps. Next 
morning several traps were sprung, coon hair was on the traps, 
but the raccoons were gone. They would pull and chew until th^y 
would get out. Finally, the one den became so covered with blood 
from their crippled feet that they wouldn't go in it any more, 
nor have I ever known a coon to go in there since. Well, some- 
thing had to be done — I must have those coons. So I invested 
in two No. 2 Newhouse and set them in the other den. I man- 
aged to catch two small coons there during the winter. 

"Last winter I made up my mind to do better at the business. 
So I bought half a dozen No. 3 Newhouse, and went to work at 
those dens. At the first den I could get nothing. They seemed 
to think that was a dangerous place. At the other den I did 
better, and caught eight during the winter. I used no bait, but 
simply placed the trap in the mouth of the den. One old fellow, 
however, got the best of me for a while — he would turn the left 
jaw of the trap over and walk by. So I placed another No. 2 to 



340 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



one side and a little behind the first one. I covered the second 
trap up with leaves and the next morning I had several toes, but 
Mr. Coon was gone. Well, that was rather disgusting,' but I 
was bound to get him. About every other morning my traps 
would be sprung, and nothing there but a little fur. I got two 
No. 3 traps, and took the No. 2's out, putting larger ones 
in their place. The next morning both traps were sprung, and on 
the outside ; Mr. Coon had got out, but left quite a chunk of 




COMBINATION STEEL TRAP AND SNARE SET. 

This is a very successful steel trap and snare arrangement. Bait with 
meat, etc. Suitable for raccoon, badger and other carnivorous animals. 
Bury trap, also attach chain to spring pole. X is where trap is to be buried. 

his flank in the trap. How he got caught in the flank I am not 
able to tell unless he rolled over the traps to spring them. About 
a week afterward I found the coon in the trap and dead, but his 
fur was badly damaged. 

"This winter I concluded to try a new scheme. I had posted 
myself during the summer on the different kinds of bait for coon. 
I read up 'Trappers' Guides' on the subject, and went to work by 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Chiide. 341 

placing a No. 3 trap in each path approaching the den, covered the 
traps nicely with chicken feathers, placing over each trap a bit of 
smoked codfish and scattered a little oil of anise and rhodium 
around. Well, the next morning I had three of the neighbors' 
tomcats, but no coons; so I found that would not do. Then I 
went at the old plan, placing traps in the den. During the first 
week I caught two young ones, but no old ones. Then, again, 
my traps commenced to be sprung every night. Sometimes a lit- 
tle fur left but no coon. I placed a trap in each of three different 
paths within six feet of the den, covered them up with feathers 
and leaves. The feathers would be pulled off the traps and the 
traps in the den sprung. Well, I hardly knew what next to do, 
but thought I would try still another plan. I placed a No. 3 just 
at entrance to den, covered it up carefully, leaving the two traps 
on inside uncovered, and in five days caught one young coon and 
two of the largest old coons I ever saw. I have tried all kinds 
of bait I ever heard of, but never succeeded. Well, with it I have 
caught coons in paths by placing a stone or pole on either side 
of trap to make them step over and covering the trap carefully, 
but if they become pinched a few times they become wary." 

Trapping the Raccoon. 

"I caught hundreds of raccoons in my time," writes Mr. 
Hammond, now retired and living in Albany. "My trapping 
grounds were along rivers, creeks, canals and close to lakes in 
Ohio, near Deshler, and later in Missouri, south of Jefferson City. 
I was always upon the alert, and while fishing one spring day and 
sitting among bushes on the river bank, I noticed a coon on the 
opposite side coming up the river, and suddenly stretched his 
neck in direction of square oyster can (used in those days) that 
was about three feet from the shore in four or five inches of 
water. He stayed around for about fifteen minutes, at various 
times reaching out after the can and even moving it from one 
place to another, and scrutinizing it very closely. As my cork 
went down. I pulled in a fish, and, naturally, the coon went skip- 
ping into the woods. 

"The following winter I bought a dozen coon traps, took 
them to the machine shop and had two small holes drilled in 
each pan. Then I took from an old alann clock the nickel case 
and made small round disks in size resembling that of the pan. I 
then riveted these nickel plates thereon and polished same with 
wood ashes, and set the traps along the river banks, two to five 
inches under water. I also riveted gold plated disks upon the 
pans with equal results. On one occasion I placed a small pocket 
mirror fastened on a piece of wood slanting and shining towards 



342 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



the shore; and set a common steel trap just between the shore 
and the looking glass, but out of the water. I covered other 
parts of the trap with grass, leaves, etc., so when the coon tried 
to examine the looking glass, he stepped upon the protruding 
covered trap and was caught. 

"I cut the skin open on the belly and stretched same in square 
shape. Keep grease from the fur and always pull the tail-bone 
out. Nicely handled and seasonable skins bring twenty-five per 
cent more, and that's where the profit lies for the experienced 
trapper. 

"Before closing my letter let me relate how I captured wild 
cats, coons, rabbits and other animals with snares. In tramping 
through the woods, I often came across tracks that I did not know 




UNCOVERED STEEL TRAP SET FOR RACCOONS. 

The mirror and bait form double attractions to the raccoon. A double set 
of this kind should be arranged near the bank of some stream or lake, or 
near the places the raccoon frequents. The steel trap as well as the clog 
should be buried. 

by what animal they were made. I set these snares, made from 
gut strings, wire, also cotton or linen lines, at various places, such 
as in front of hollow logs, passages, under brush or fence rails, 
and other favorable places. Arrange to lift the animal off its 
feet and away from harm of other animals by pulling down limbs 
or small trees, and if these were not conveniently situated, I often 
threw a long rope across a distant limb, attached a ten to twenty- 
pound stone on end and raised it high up ; the other end I fastened 
to the snare in such a way that if pulled by the animal the fastener 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 343 

would break or pull out ar.d the weight descend and hang the 
victim before he knew what was up. The animal would some- 
times get away if caught by front foot, but never if caught around 
the neck or hind foot." 

Trapping the Raccoon. 

"The raccoon is not a very difficult animal to capture. The 
traps should be set either in the paths in some woods that the 
animal frequents, or along the shores of a stream or lake. One 
of the most successful ways is to make a U-shaped enclosure at 
the edge of the water. This can be done by driving sticks in the 
shore; not necessary that the open part should be exposed to the 
water. Set trap at entrance and place some bait at the farthest 
end of the pen. Cover the trap with water-soaked leaves which 
can be held in place by a light covering of earth. I usually fasten 
the trap to a brush drag. The latter I throw in the water, and if 
light put a stone on top of it to keep it from floating away. Quite 
often if the raccoon springs the trap he will get tangled up in the 
drag ; consequently you do not have to hunt him up. This set 
is also recommended for mink. If the water happens to be fairly 
deep, the chain will become tangled up in the brush and the 
weight of the trap will drown the mink in short order. Caught 
thirteen raccoons and about twenty-five minks a year ago. Was 
unable to trap last year." R. B. A. 

TRAPPING THE OPOSSUM. 

"Below I give in a brief manner my way of trapping and 
taking the opossum : 

"I find out where the opossum runs, then cut some sticks about 
one inch in diameter, about eighteen to twenty inches long, and 
drive them into the ground three to four inches apart, in a circle 
formation of a diameter of eighteen to twenty inches, leaving an 
opening of about six inches wide. 

"Then take one or two steel traps and set at opening, using 
pieces of rabbit or chicken as bait which I place about twelve 
inches beyond opening inside of coop. I always cover the trap 
with leaves, bits of rotten wood and earth, having first placed 
loose leaves beneath pan of trap to keep dirt from falling beneath 
it. I also throw small bits of meat outside the enclosure. 

"The best place to set this kind of trap is at the edge of a bush 
or thicket, bordering an old field or creek, lake or any place 
where the opossum comes for food or water. 

"Have used snares advantageously, but always attached same 
to a spring pole or limb of a tree, or a young tree itself. A 



344 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



fiddle-string or horse-hair noose is better than copper wire, at 
least I always prefer it." John D. Knoll. 

Trapping the Opossum. 

"The opossum has a habit of going around at night, visiting 
henroosts, if there are any near. If not, it catches birds, or what- 
ever it can find, until it gets fat. Then it goes into its hole which 
it digs or takes from other animals. There it stays until it gets 
hungry and poor. 

"1 have had success in smoking them out. I took waste cotton 
rags, tearing them into small strips, putting them loosely over 
the hole ; then setting them on fire, blowing them until they burn 
well. Then I put my hand or something over the hole to smother 
the blaze and drive the smoke into the hole as far as possible. 

"Then set the trap as you would to catch it without smoking, 
and you will have the opossum, as the smoke will drive it out. 

"The kind of a trap I use is a No. i Victor, which always 
holds them if it is in good working order." R. B. A. 

Trapping the Opossum. 

The opossum, like the skunk, is an easy animal to trap. Hav- 
ing found out where he runs I set my line of traps on his path. 
Any kind of meat bait will do. Traps, however, should be covered 
up, and be sure and put some cotton under the pan to keep sand 
and dirt from falling beneath it. To keep him from twisting out, 
I generally attach trap to a spring pole. 

A good place to set your trap is where you have seen him 
drink water. Also in front of his hole. I never resort to snares, 
although I have seen a lot of negroes catching them with ordinary 
fish lines. On one occasion a negro brought past our house a 
large male opossum that he claimed to have caught with an 
ordinary fish hook. He suspended the bait over a fence rail and 
the animal in his eagerness to devour the meat, swallowed hook 
and all. When the time came to go away, he found there was 
something tickling. -;>. Cxtrxtvaxv. . N. C. A. 

rat). 




Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 345 



TRAPPING THE MUSKRAT. 

I have trapped muskrats since I was twelve years old, and 
have had good success. I will give you my rule. Trapped more 
than i,ooo the first month this year after the water was frozen. 

Chop a small hole in the south side of the house large enough 
in which to set your trap. Dig away a little moss on the mound 
so as to set the trap under water ; the grown rats are wise enough 
to fill the trap with moss and not get caught and you only get 
the small rats. 

No. I Victor traps are good for rats. Select weak traps as the 
strong ones break the bone and they gnaw their leg or foot ofif 
and get away. Use the wet moss to line edges of the opening of 
hole, and bank up good enough to keep from freezing ; then clean 
away about 2>^ inches from the level of the water, and set trap 
and if the water freezes one-half inch, you get a rat anyway. If 
you set on the mound, you don't. First trap out the small feeding 
houses, then the larger one. Later in the winter, a person should 
get five to six rats in each house. 

If you wish to spear the rats, get on the house and jump till 
you see one and then follow him up and spear him., when the ice 
is first freezing. For a spear, use steel rod, like a wagon rod, 
sharpened to a point, tapering three to five inches, with a heavy 
handle. A person may spear loo in a day. Baits are not neces- 
sary for muskrats. 

In the spring is a good time to shoot rats. In a boat you may 
get in good shooting range. When they are pairing they are out 
all day and you can get them regularly two at a time, with good 
wages, for two or three weeks after the ice is broken up. 

Rats can also be trapped with a barrel at the level of the 
water, half full of water with some shingles floating in it. The 
rat swimming up to the barrel sees the bait on the shingles, jumps 
down, and cannot get out. Many rats can be caught that way. 

If you are unable to select weak traps for capturing musk- 
rats, you may weaken them by heating them. You lose thirty 
out of I GO by using strong traps, but you can catch them by the 
hind leg by setting about three inches in the water. 

Adolph Lien, 

Olaf, Iowa. 
Trapping Muskrats Under Ice. 

This is my method of trapping muskrats under the ice : Take 
two ten-inch boards two feet long, and two six-inch boards two 
feet long, and make a box, using the ten-inch boards for sides 
and the six-inch boards for top and bottom. Now make a trap 
door of wire for the front end of the box, which will push in but 



346 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



will not push out ; set at an angle of about forty-five degrees. 
Drive shingle nails about every inch or so around the back end 
of the trap and weave a net across it so that any mink could not 
get through. 

This cut shows the trap finished with narrow boards nailed 
to the sides, which come in handy to sink in the water for trapping 
muskrats. Find the muskrat runway under the ice, which you 
can always tell by the bubbles or riley water. Put a stone on the 
trap and sink. I have caught four rats in a trap made like this 



^^M^twm^ v'lWIf 




Muskrat Trapper Arthur B . Eastman Visiting his traps 

night after night, and I now seldom use any other trap for -musk- 
rats. For illustration see page 273. 

It is also a fine trap for trapping mink. Prop the door up with 
a short stick about 2^ inches long. Bait with rabbit or bloody 
chicken heads. Set under bridges or on the bank of small streams 
where there are stones around it, or grass overhanging sufficiently 
to partly cover trap. 

E. J. FiNEL, 

Waukegan, 111. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 347 

Trapping the Muskrat. 

Mr. A. S. Lamb, a Michigan trapper, writes as follows : "My 
method of trapping, rather capturing muskrats is as follows : 
Having ascertained a suitable location where muskrats are plen- 
tiful, I dig a hole in the ground into which I place a barrel half- 
filled with water. I place sweet apples on some laths or shingles 
within the barrel, and then lay a ten or twelve-inch board leading 
from the shore or water along to the barrel. I also place pieces 
of apples on the board and in the immediate vicinity on the 
shore, also on shingles that are fastened so as not to float away. 
The muskrat, on discovering the bait, will naturally go up on the 
board, tumble in the barrel and of course not being able to get out, 
will drown. So when I come along the following morning with 
a rake I am able to take up eight or ten drowned muskrats at a 
time. On one occasion I took out nineteen full-grown and three 
kitts. 

Trapping the Muskrat. 

"In trapping the muskrat on the Rush lakes of Minnesota 
I use a No. i steel trap. In the middle of winter when the lakes 
are frozen over, I proceed to business. 

"I approach a rat-house and thrust the muskrat spear into 
it on the south or southeast side. If it is frequented by rats it 
will be found open and hollow inside. I next take my small 
hunter's ax and chop a V-shaped hole in the house on the south 
side. When the opening is reached, I take out all the moss, 
rushes, etc., which have fallen in and am careful to leave it just 
as the rats had it. By feeling around you will find a little shelf 
or slide which the rats climb upon in coming into the house. I 
now take the trap and set it on this shelf. If it is covered with 
water, which it generally is, it is not necessary to cover it other- 
wise ; but if it is above water, I cover the trap with fine moss — 
rubbed between the hands until so fine it will not prevent the trap 
holding the rat's leg. I then fill up the hole with a few rushes and 
moss, then cover it all with snow or moss. No bait is necessary 
in this kind of trapping. I visit my traps every morning and 
am generally rewarded by a big brown rat in each trap. I leave 
a trap in a house from six to ten nights, taking care to always 
keep it well covered so it will not freeze inside. The trap is held 
by a long stick stuck in the side of the house. 

"In trapping the muskrat in open water in the spring I set 
my traps on the outside of the houses, just under the water where 
the rats climb upon the house. In this way I sometimes catch 
5 or 6 in a single trap in one day. 

"I go around to my traps in a small boat — one man can 
handle about 50 traps in this way. 










III 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 349 

"When a rat is drowned or dies under the water, I take the 
hooked end of the spear and hook it into the trap, and lift my 
muskrat on board. If aHve, take a small stick and kill them with 
it. Be careful not to get them too near as they will fight, and 
if opportunity presents impregnate their teeth in a person's limb 
or body. Don't give them a chance. 

"I take the skin off promptly, am careful in skinning, more 
so in stretching, and still greater in picking out a reliable firm to 
ship to." Mr. a. C. Cramblit, 

of Okabena. 

Trapping the Muskrat. 

The muskrat may be caught in winter by setting traps in 
their houses, by cutting a hole, preferably on the south side and 
setting traps on the inside of the houses. If the opening inside 
is not large enough to set the trap upon, enlarge it by means 
of an axe or ice chisel. At any rate the trap should be set solid 
so that it cannot be tipped over by the muskrat climbing on 
the place. The opening in the house should not be made any 
larger than to admit the trap, and should be stopped up by wet 
stuff taken from the inside, after which snow may be placed 
on top of the house, It is very important to close the opening 
and make the house as warm as possible as on this depends the 
success of the trapper. 

Another way which is very successful in the Northwest 
where muskrats have holes in the banks along lakes and sloughs, 
is to set the traps in these holes. These openings can be readily 
found by taking note of the riley condition of the water at their 
opening. The trapper now proceeds to tramp around on the 
bank opposite until the earth gives way beneath his feet, then 
cutting a hole and setting the trap in two to three inches of 
water; sometimes the holes are too deep for the earth to give 
way, when considerable digging will have to be resorted to in 
order to find them. Where muskrats are numerous lo to 15 
may be caught in some individual hole. 

J. R. S. 

Trapping the Muskrat. 

If the w'ater is too shallow and the muskrat cannot be drowned 
in the place where traps are set. attach chain to small limb which 
the muskrat will drag into deep water and becoming tangled up 
will drown. If the water should happen to be very deep in the 
vicinity, attach a fish line to the drag which will enable you 
to pull in the muskrat, trap and drag, on your next visit. 

The laws of many states prevent tlie breaking of muskrat 



350 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



houses, therefore it is difficult to trap the muskrat during the 
winter time. My method is as follows : 

Chop a hole over their run-way and lower your trap with 
two sticks. Now make a stick with a sharp point which drive 
into the bottom of the lake. On a protruding branch, tie a piece 
of apple, carrot, etc., and arrange bait 7 or 8 inches above trap. 
Ring of chain should be fastened either to a string or to a pole 
fastened to the bottom. Sometimes I place 3 or 4 traps in one 
hole ; in such cases I place the bait in the center with the traps 
all around. The chains should be staked on the outside so that 
if one muskrat is caught he will not spring the other traps in 
his struggle to get away. F. H. C. 

A 




FLOATING MUSKRAT SET. 



Chains should be stapled upon the bottom of plank. For Iralt use parsnips, 
beets, turnips or their own meat, which should be fastened upon plank. 

In the late fall and early spring, there is as much fun in 
killing muskrats as there is to sit in a boat and fish. Probably 
more. Trapping muskrat with steel traps, wire traps, resorting 
to deadfalls, also to boxes and barrels, is all good enough, but 
when these are impracticable and to get immediate yield during 
the daytime, I prefer the following: 

I provide myself with a heavy club, and my partner with a 
hoop net attached to a 6-foot pole. When I find an under- 
ground run-way that I think is inhabited by the muskrat, I hit 
the ground just above the run-way a sharp rap. If inhabited, 
the muskrat will immediately decamp. My partner then catches 
him in the net, or prevents him from coming out of the hole. 
If one gets away I usually get a chance to put a 22 in his head. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters an d Trappers Guide. 351 

If they go into another hole, I watch, and we proceed the same 
as before. 

A box trap with a shding door, that can be shoved right in 
it, or next to the hole, or placed in a run-way under the ice, is 
good. I have used the box trap repeatedly. If set below the 
ice, nail a stick to the box so that you can raise, and locate the 
trap. Of course, when the water is frozen one has to chop a 
pretty big hole, but what trapper is not accustomed to hard work 
as long as it is remunerative. 

Probably the best way to get a great many rats is to sink a 
water tight barrel into the lake so that the top protrudes two 
to three inches. Fill barrel one-half full of water. Weight it 
down with stones, but first see that the barrel rests on level or a 
solid piece of ground ; if it is not level make it so. Within the 
barrel fit a lid turning on two pegs. Weight one side so that 
lid will always close after the muskrat is dumped into the barrel. 
For bait I use potatoes, carrots or apples, and if these are un- 
obtainable, a piece of their own flesh. One of my neighbors 
does not seem to take so much trouble in preparing this set; 
all he does is to fasten the bait on a string which he suspends 
across the top of barrel with the bait in the center. The muskrat 
in trying to get at the bait jumps into the barrel, from which 
he cannot get out. 

The only time either one of us resort to steel traps is when 
the weather is real cold. Chop a hole in the muskrat's house, 
and set one or more traps either on the shelf or on the ice within 
the house. These traps are covered with grass, found in the 
house. Cover hole up before you go away. 

To prevent muskrats from twisting their legs off or getting 
out of the trap otherwise, I find the best thing is to set the trap 
on some log or railroad tie and arrange it so that when the 
animal jumps into the water, he w^ill drown. Floating sets work 
day and night and whether the water is high or low. 

About two miles from my place there is a small lake and 
some years muskrats are so thick that it does not take much 
of a contrivance or a genius to trap them. Steel traps are too 
slow work for me. During the fall months, I make a box three 
feet wide, eight feet long, and eighteen inches deep, usually out 
of two-inch planks. On the outside, I nail a four-inch board 
clear around about three inches lower than the top of the box ; 
this is a kind of shelf, upon which the muskrat climbs with 
ease if some food is there to attract him. The box is filled two- 
thirds full of water and otherwise weighted down so that the 
outside shelf is even with level of lake. I use apples, carrots, etc., 
for bait ; these are securely fastened upon shelf, thus forcing the 



352 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

animals to climb upon the shelf for the food. I do this five or six 
times before I want to trap the muskrat. During this time, I have 
boards over the box so that the animal cannot get in. When the 
time is ripe I remove the boards and suspend the bait on a string 
in center of box. The muskrat, accustomed to the shelf, gets into 
the box, and not being able to get out, drowns. 

This is a smooth water set and not good in rough weather. 
Trap doors can be made within the box. These are arranged 
so that when the muksrat steps upon the door his or her weight 
drops door and the muskrat. The door, of course, having un- 
loaded its burden, goes back. R. B. A. 

TRAPPING THE BEAVER. 

Mr. Lewis D. Bergey, an old trapper, writes on trapping 
the beaver as follows : 

"There are various modes of trapping these sagacious ani- 
mals adopted by professional hunters and trappers. In the fall 
and spring the chief method is to make a small opening in the 
dam and set the No. 4 trap in such a manner that they will 
get caught when repairing the damage. The trap should be 
fastened by several feet of chain to a pole driven firmly at full 
length of the chain into the mud at the bottom of the lake ; no 
marks must be left. Should the chain be slack, the beaver is 
almost sure to leave a toe or paw in the trap, since he has a 
chance of resting on the dam and by twisting and using his teeth 
will set himself free. It is then a labor of much ingenuity to 
catch him. The presence of beaver and their size are judged 
by the freshness of the sticks and the size of the teeth-marks 
on them, as well as the general appearance of the works. 

"Another mode practised to catch these wiseacres is to make 
an opening in the dam and set the trap at some distance where 
he is likely to get mud and sticks for repairing the mischief. 
Advantage is also taken of his roads and places where he is in 
the habit of sitting while eating. A sort of oil called castor, 
used formerly for medicinal purposes, taken from the animal, 
is used to attract them to the trap. When setting a trap water 
must be splashed freely wherever the bushes or banks have been 
touched, as a beaver is very keen of scent, and will turn away 
if he suspects anything. 

"The way to dress a fresh skin is to make a large hoop of 
birch or poplar and lace the skin tightly to it by means of holes 
cut all around the skin near the edge. The weight of a well- 
cleaned skin varies from half a pound to three pounds, according 
to the age and season of the year. 

"Beaver are found in many places in the United States, but 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 353 

nowhere so plentiful as in Northern Canada. In the great 
stretch of lakes in Athabasca, and the north shore of Labrador, 
beaver are considered superior to those caught further west. 
Beaver becomes prime about the first of October and continues 
to improve until about the first of May, when it deteriorates. 
The flesh of a fat beaver is considered by many as the most 
delicate of any to be procured in the bush. The tail also is a 
delicacy when properly cooked, and when smoked and dried it 
has the flavor of bacon." 

Trapping the Beaver. 

H. Miller, of Lewistown, Mont., gives us the following 
article : 

"The beaver is a water animal and lives in holes in the banks 
of streams, and in houses which it makes in the water out of 
mud and sticks. Its food is bark, corn, wheat, rats, grass, etc. 
It has its young once a year, generally in the month of April, 
having from two to six at a birth. They do not increase very 
fast, as it requires about four years to get their full growth. 
The beaver castor or bark sacs, and the oil stones, are found 
near the vent, in four sacs in both sexes. In taking them out, 
cut around them, and take out together with as little meat as 
possible. The bark sacs contain a yellow substance. To get 
the contents, tie a string around hole in the bark sacs and 
rub them between the hands until they are soft ; then cut them 
open and squeeze the stufif into a cup. To get the oil of the oil 
stone, cut the end ofif and squeeze it. Keep separate and mix 
according as directed. You can put this in bottles. 

"The baits for beaver are made as follows: i. Take the 
castor of one beaver, add twenty drops Oil of Cinnamon, ten 
drops Oil of Anise, and urine of the beaver to make the bait the 
consistency of mush. 2. Take the castor sacs of one beaver: 
add seven drops of Oil of Sassafras, seven drops Oil of Anise 
and ten drops of the oil from the Oil Stone. 3. Take the castor 
sacs of one beaver, ten drops Jamaica Rum, five drops Oil of 
Anise, five drops Oil of Cloves, five drops Oil of Sassafras and 
five drops Oil of Rhodium. 4. Take the castor sacs of one 
beaver, add ten drops of the oil from the Oil Stone, and beaver 
urine enough to make the bait like mush. These I call natural 
baits, and they will fool the oldest beaver that lives. 

"Beavers cut small trees and build dams in streams and when 
you see fresh work you have beaver close by. You will find 
slides where they go into the water. Set your traps at the foot 
of the slides, three inches under the water, and cover with 
mud and leaves. Put the end of the trap towards the center 



354 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



of the stream and fasten it to the » drowning pole (described 
elsewhere), and leave everything as natural as possible. Take 
your bait and put it on the end of a stick six inches long; split 
one end three or four times and dip it in the bait and stick it 
up six or seven inches above the water in the slide. Wear gum 
boots in setting traps and carry a tin cup — after setting a trap 
use your tin cup to wash away the scent. 

"Skin the beaver by starting the knife in the under lip, split 
skin to the tail, skin the front legs whole (some skin them all 
whole), stretch them as near round as possible. Use the hoop 
stretcher to stretch the beaver skin. Cut small holes close to 
the edge of the skin and use twine or bark. Stretch the skin 
until it is tight. Use a jutting-pole and knife to take off the 
grease and meat from the skin before it is stretched. 

"I like the Newhouse trap best for catching nearly all kinds 
of animals. I have two faults to find with them, first, the pan 




BARREL TRAP. 

Suitable for muskrats. Sink so tiiat top protrudes 4 or 5 inches above 
water. Fill barrel half full of water, weight down with stones. Bait 
swingini: drop door as per illustration, with potatoes, apples, carrots, beets, 
etc. 

is too small ; second, the chain is too long — but they stand the 
weather. 

"To set a trap for beaver, cut a pole eight or nine feet long 
(described hereafter), push the small end into the bottom of the 
creek where the water is deep enough to drown a beaver, put 
the chain ring over the big end of the pole, push the pole the 
length of the chain to one side of the slide, and sink the pole 
under the water and put your husk or stake straddle up the pole 
and drive it down solid; see that the ring can travel the pole 
when a beaver is caught. If he can get on land he will bite his 
feet off and go. 

Trapping the Beaver. 

Southern method as used in the swamps of Louisiana by R. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 355 

W. Riggs — The bait used and the way to set the traps: 

"The bait used : First mix one-half ounce of alcohol, fifteen 
drops oil of sassafras. Use ten drops of this mixture with the 
castor sac of one large beaver. 

"For a set, use two No. 4 Newhouse traps. Tie the traps 
together by one of the springs of each trap. This is to make 
more weight and also to help to tangle the beaver up when 
caught. Now set your traps in three to six inches of water. Set 
so the beaver will have to come over the loose jaw of the traps. 
Now whatever the distance is to deep water, tie a piece of rope 
to the rings of the trap chains, long enough for the beaver to 
get into deep water when caught. If you have a piece of iron 
in camp you can tie that also to the traps. The stake that the 
rope is fastened to should have a hook to it. Drive it down in 
the mud all out of sight. Coil up the rope and cover it up also 
with mud. Cover your traps so that nothing shows. Now take 
a small dead stick and stick it into your bait about an inch. 
Then stick it up in the water about six inches from your traps 
on the land side, with just the bait end sticking out of the water. 
I also tie the bait sticks to the traps with a string so when the 
beaver is caught he will take the bait stick with him. For if the 
bait stick was left after the beaver was caught, other beavers 
would come and smell of it and then that kind of bait would 
have no attraction for them for some time. I mix up bait from 
both the male and female, so that I will have a change. Set 
your traps away from their houses or holes. Do not disturb 
their dams. In setting your traps wade in on one side of the 
place where you are going to set your traps and do all of your 
work from the water side. Never walk on the ground in front 
of your set. When you have your set made, throw water over 
everything near you. If there are any bushes within five or 
more feet of you throw water on them. If you will use care and 
have a little patience you can catch every one in that colony and 
you need not smoke your traps or use gloves either. 

Trapping the Beaver. 

C. Steele, a trapper residing at Altamont, Mo., gives us the 
following good article on beaver : 

"The beaver is a very shy and cunning animal, always on the 
guard against danger, thus making it hard to trap him unless 
one understands his ways and habits. 

"My experience has been on the Pacific Coast, in the State 
of Washington. The beaver lives along streams or lakes ; if 
streams, he dams them, thus forming a kind of reservoir or lake, 
and even at the outlet of lakes he places a dam, thus raising the 



356 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



water of the lake. After he has prepared his dam and built his 
home, he commences carrying food. This is chiefly branches 
of trees or bushes, and even smiU trees themselves. He always 
chooses tender green ones. These he places in the bottom of the 
lake to use as desired, or in his hut or lodge, and should he be 
disturbed at any time he will stop work for several days and live 
off the boughs already sunk in the bottom of the lake or lodge, 
thus making it impossible to trap him until he again commences 
work. He usually does his work among young sprouts along 
the bank of his lake or stream ; sometimes he will go for some 
distance up a small stream and float boughs down to the main 
lake or dam in the stream where he has his hut. 

"There are many ways to catch him, but I will only give 
two or three of the best ways. The first thing is the trap ; the 
best kind is a strong steel trap, the Newhouse, or some other 




FLOATING BOX SET. 

For description see page 351. 

good brand. Then the best way to trap the beaver is to pro- 
cure some castoreum (which is an odorous liquid carried in a 
small pouch by the male beaver). Then cut some small twigs, 
one for each trap, and having selected the dam of the colony of 
beaver you wish to trap, procure a pair or rubber boots, or re- 
move your boots and wade up the stream along the shore of the 
lake or stream where they have been at work upon the sprouts, 
but be careful and do not step out on the land where the beaver 
can see your tracks or scent you, for if he does he will stay in 
his home for several days. When you have selected a spot 
where the bank is steep, secure your trap by a strong stake be- 
neath the w-ater, then fasten a heavy rock to your trap and dig 
a flat place in the bank a few inches beneath water, placing your 
trap thereon. Then dip the end of your stick in the castoreum 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 357 

you procured and stick the opposite end in the ground, just out 
of the water and leaning over tl e trap. Then your trap is ready 
for him. He conies out as daikness approaches and starts to- 
wards his ground where he p.ocures food, and as he swims 
along he smells the castoreum and thinks a strange beaver has 
con:e into his pond or lake. He swims up to the stake or twig 
to get a better scent, and as his foot touches the ground the trap 
is sprung. Then finding he is f.st he springs backward into the 
water and displaces the rock which is fastened to the trap, and 
the heavy rock pulls him down and drowns him. This prevents 
him from making any noise to scare the rest away or from gnaw- 
ing his foot off to escape, as he frequently does if left long m 
the trap. In this way you can sometimes catch the entire colony. 

"Another way is to cut a hole or crevice in the top of the 
dam, and set the trap just below the surface of the water directly 
beneath the hole. The beaver at once starts to repair the dam 
and thus gets in the trap ; but this method is rarely used by ex- 
perienced trappers unless they cannot procure ci^storeum, and in 
this way they procure it, even at the expense of frightening the 
rest of the colony sometimes entirely away. 

"Another way is to cover the trap neatly in the path of the 
beaver leading from the lake to his feeding ground, but this has 
the same disadvantage as the last plan. 

"I could write you more about their ways of living, houses, 
etc., but think that I have told all that would be necessary to 
know to make a success at trapping them." 

Trapping the Beaver. 

To trap beaver in winter when the water is frozen : Select 
a place close to their houses and close to a bank where the water 
is not more than two feet deep under the ice. If the water is 
too deep, cut away part of the dam and lower the water to the 
right depth. Now cut a hole in the ice two or three feet across, 
according to thinness of ice and the size of bait. Next cut the 
bait, which should be the top of a poplar or birch about four 
inches through at the big end ; shove this under the ice and fasten 
with a stake which has a hook on it. A trap may be placed on 
the bottom right below where bait is fastened by the stake, or 
the bait may be left without trap for one night when in the 
morning the bait is usually all taken away. Now set three or four 
traps in the following manner, and as close to the former place 
as possible. Cut a number of stakes (dry) and drive into bottom 
in half circle about fifteen inches across, put a few green sticks 
of poplar inside of this half-circle and drive into bottom ; set 
the traps on the bottom just outside of the green sticks, resting 



358 Andersch Bros/ Hunt ers and Trappers Guide. 

firmly so that it cannot be tipped over by the beaver gnawing 
at the bark. The trap should be fastened to a dry stake set slop- 
ing towards the deepest part of stream. The beaver trapper 
should endeavor to catch as many in as short a time as possible, 
as the remaining beavers will soon become shy of the place. 

T. GULLICKSON, 

Canada. 
TRAPPING THE OTTER. 

The habits of this valuable fur bearer are less generally known 
than are those of the mink and others of the fur bearing animals 
pursued by amateur trappers. They are very shy, which fact 
taken with their nocturnal habits render them seldom seen, even 
where they are fairly common. Their sign is unmistakable after 
one has had his attention called to it. The excrement, consists 
almost wholly of the scales of fish, and when fresh a large mixture 
of slime. The track very much resembles that of the mink but 
much larger. In snow the track has been well imitated by drag- 
ging a meal bag filled with hay or sawdust and then leading a 
hound along the trail thus made. The otter and hound however 
do not walk alike. Their playful habit of rolling and plunging 
through the snow and sliding down steep banks into the water 
have been often described by other writers, but I do not re- 
member to have ever seen in print their habit of going on land 
to deposit their excretia which they do in regular well defined 
situations, and then rolling about in much the same way that a 
dog rolls in carrion or other ill-smelling things. And now right 
there in the midst of the pile is the best place to set a trap, which 
should be a Newhouse No. 3 or 33^ carefully concealed from 
sight and ever}'thing left as natural as possible. I have caught 
foxes in my otter traps set as above as they came to roll in the 
"fragrant" bed. 

Another good place to set is where they come out of the 
water to go to the slide. An otter will invariably cross a point 
of land in a long bend of a stream when traveling, in preference 
to going around, and in all streams frequented by otters in their 
well known habit of journeying from one stream to another, a 
well defined path will be found across these "oxbows" and here 
is another good place to set a carefully concealed trap without 
any bait. In fact an otter will very seldom touch bait of any 
kind, but their bump of curiosity is highly developed, which will 
usually lead then near enough to investigate through the sense 
of smell, any unusual object about their haunts. For instance, 
a dead fish placed just beyond a trap will sometimes lead to their 
capture although they never eat dead fish. 

Otters are very regular in their wandering habit. After the 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Chiide. 359 

young become large enough to follow the mother, the whole 
family start on the wandering life, going over again and again 
practically the same route, and the trapper may confidently ex- 
pect them to appear at a certain slide at quite regular intervals 
during the fall and winter. This is kept up uiitil the breeding 
season comes round again when the female retires to her nest 
in some inaccessible swamp to bring forth her young. 

Sometimes the route is varied for some reason and their con- 
spicuous trail in the deep snow is found in unexpected places, 
even going over elevated ridges seemingly just for the fun of 
wallowing through the snow. In single file they go, one after 
the other, resembling with the characteristic rising and falling of 
the arched back, a huge serpent. 

The best trap in my estimation is the Newhouse No. 3^ — 
the teeth being a great advantage in holding him, as when caught 
he exerts his great strength to the utmost in his efforts to get 
away. Where possible a heavy stone or properly constructed 
sliding pole should be employed to drown him as quickly as 
possible. 

Charles E. Ingalls, 

East Templeton, Mass. 

Trapping the Otter. 

Mr. D. H. Smith, a man of experience in trapping ptter, re- 
lates his method. 

"In trapping for otter I go along banks of running streams 
or lakes. The otter is seldom found around ^nds, as he lives 
principally on fish. The otter raises a litter of three to five pups 
every year. A successful otter trapper must study the otter and 
have considerable experience before he is able to set his traps 
and capture the animal within a reasonable length of time. 

"I use No. 3 and No. 4 steel traps with a chain of four to 
five feet — the longer the better. As otters are travelers and run 
up and down streams, stopping at various places from three to 
six miles, a trip of that kind takes from one to two weeks. They 
have what trappers call 'slides,' which are found along the banks 
of rivers and lakes, where the bank is four to six feet high and 
fairly steep. They will come from the water, go up the hill, turn 
around, lay flat down on their belly, spread out front and rear 
legs, and slide rapidly into the water. This operation is re- 
peated time and time again, and the slide becomes very sleek. 

"Now, when you want to near these slides to set a trap you 
must go to them in a boat. I generally attach my chain of traps 
to poles ten to fifteen feet long and set the traps under four to 
six inches of water. I always turn the two springs of the traps 



360 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



towards the center and never leave them sticking out. The 
trap will work just as well. The end of the poles which has the 
chain attached is stuck into the river bed for about two 'or three 
inches to hold it securely, and the other end I attach to a willow 
or limb of tree. At other times I use the limb of a tree or a 
small tree itself, willow, etc., as a spring-pole to pull the animal 
out of the water if captured. The trap is securely covered up 
with a thin layer of dirt, and always have leaves, cotton or similar 
matter under the pan. If you disturb the river bottom always 
arrange to the natural state but never get out of the boat. In case 
I have no boat and am compelled to set trap this way by wading 
into the water, I am always careful to obliterate my tracks and 




TRAPPING THROUGH THE ICE. 

A well-tried arrangement for trapping through the ice. Cover trap 
and chain with moss, evergreens and similar light vegetation. The string 
or wire should be loosely wound around the chain. Experienced trappers 
usually have two or three traps set about the hole, all attached to the 
same pole. Especially good for the otter, beaver and other aquatic animals. 

leave the surroundings in as natural state as possible and splash 
water from a distance over places that I disturb if out of the 
water. 

"In visiting the traps never go close to them unless you want 
to remove them. 

*Tf the otter caught is still alive, take a stick and with a smart 
blow hit across the head. One blow is generally sufficient. Never 
hit upon the body as it will hurt the skin. When the otter is 
dead take him in deep water and wash the fur so that the animal 
is thoroughly clean. Lay body belly upwards, and with a sharp 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 361 

knife split from point of rear foot or heel to tail, skin out the 
hind legs and strip the bone out of tail or cut tail open and skin 
out — whichever way suits me best. Then cut around forelegs 
and if convenient hang body four to six feet above the ground 
and pull skin over body. I then begin to place the skin on a 
proper sized stretcher, about five feet long, ten inches wide on 
one end to about seven inches on the other. The upper portion 
of the stretcher, however, is tapered to fit the head of the skin. 
I then take a drawing knife or steel case knife, and scrape the 
flesh and fat off and wash the skin with warm water and soap. 
The fur part must always be next to the stretcher. After the 
skin is thoroughly washed and free from meat and fat, I pro- 
ceed to put it on the regular stretcher to dry. The latter is made 
out of three pieces, the middle one being a wedge. Stretch the 
skin as long as you possibly can, but do not overstretch it nor 
make it too narrow. The end and tail should be securely tacked 
on the board. After the hide is on the stretcher, I hang same, 
head portion uppermost, in some shady place to dry. Never 
use a single board stretcher for otter as the skin will shrink so 
much that you will be unable to get the board out. The follow- 
ing is the size of stretcher I make and how to use it. 

"Take a board five to six feet long, three-quarter inch thick 
and eight inches wide. Both sides must be planed smooth and 
then shape board so that it will be six to seven inches wide on 
furthest point down to four inches wide on other end. Then I 
taper the head portion of the stretcher to about five inches to one 
and one-half inch or two inches. After smoothing the edges to 
the required thickness and slanting, I proceed to rip the board 
in center so that it will make two pieces of exact width. Then I 
prepare a wedge equal length of stretcher, two by one and one- 
half inches wide. I then proceed to place the first two pieces 
within the skin and pull the skin tightly upon it. Also fasten the 
skin at a few places with four-penny nails. I am very careful 
to have the belly portion in the center of the wedge. Then I 
proceed to insert the wedge and give the skin the proper shape 
and stretch. Pine or basswood boards are the best to use, and 
the time to trap is from November to the first of April. Otter, 
during the month of February, are the best." 

Trapping the Otter. 

Earl Mooney, a trapper living in Illinois, gives us the follow- 
ing interesting article on how he caught his first otter : 

"One day in February, about three years ago, I was going 
down the river in my boat. I was looking over my traps and 
watching for signs of game. I saw where an otter had been 



362 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



sliding down a small maple pole, which was lying partly in the 
water and partly out. I set a No. 3 trap where he had been 
coming out of the water, being very careful not to disturb any- 
thing or leave any scent behind. Three days after I had set my 
trap I caught my otter. I had caught him by the left hind leg, 
pretty well up. I killed him with a small stick, hardly big 
enough, I thought, to kill him, but I found out my mistake, for 
he was very easy to kill. I skinned him, and sold his hide for 
ten dollars." 

Trapping the Otter. 

The otter is a wary animal and the trap should be carefully 
secreted and placed on the side of the runway or otter slide at the 
highest point ; the aim being to catch the animal by the legs which 
are located on the side of the animal, and are very short. A 




SLIDING WIRE OR ROPE. 

Take a telegraph wire (some take a %-inch rope), fasten to some heavy 
object, which sink 15 to 25 feet from shore in deep water. Pass the other 
end through ring on trap and fasten to some tree or stake. The steel trap 
should be set at the edge of the shore or under water. Cover trap in the 
usual way. Good for otter, beaver, mink, etc. 

small cavity should be made in the earth, and the trap inserted 
so as to be about level with the path under the pan. Around 
the jaws and springs make a light packing of leaves or moss; 
cover the trap carefully with rotten wood pulverized very fine, 
brush off smooth to give it a natural appearance. Cut a small 
tree the size of the chain ring ; set upright near the path to guide 
the game into the trap, fastening it and securing the trap and game 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Ouide. 363 

by tying the top to some other tree and the chain can be shpped 
on and fastened with a wedge at the other end. Then take a dry 
brush and drop in such a way as to turn the game towards the 
trap, then thoroughly drench the surroundings with water. Pour 
a few drops of the oil of decomposed trout or minnows on a 
piece of wood and drop near the trap as a draw to attract the 
animal. The musk of the otter may be used in conjunction, or 
alone, for the same purpose. Keep as far away from the trap 
as possible in making the rounds. 

Another way : Set the trap close to the land where the otter 
comes out of the water to go on the slide. Place the trap about 
three inches under water and a little on one side of the path so 
that the pan is three inches from the middle of the path. Fasten 
the chain ring of the trap to a pole fifteen feet long, about one 
and one-half inches through, then fasten a stone of about ten 
pounds weight to the chain close to the pole for an anchor. When 
the animal is caught he makes for deep water, the stone drags 
him to the bottom and he is drowned. In case the water is not 
deep enough to set the right depth, dig the earth away until it 
is. If the water is too deep fill in under the trap. Always set 
the trap level. The anchor stone and pole must be sunk under- 
neath water. 

Albert Rosenbush, 
Turtle Lake, Wis. 
Trapping the Otter. 

W. H. Smart, Crete, Nebraska, gives his ideas as to trapping 
otter in the following words : 

"The proper place to set a steel trap is where the animal comes 
out of the water. They always leave a trail which any trapper 
with experience can locate. After setting the trap, cover with 
mud or leaves and leave the surroundings as natural as possible. 
I use the drowning pole in connection with the above set. 

Another way is to find a log in the water, into which cut a 
deep niche and set the trap. Cover trap with mud and leaves and 
fine chips of wood ; all suspicious articles are to be removed and 
the place left in its natural condition. The above setting is of 
course slightly under water. Before leaving the place I sprinkle 
a few drops of musk of skunk on the log. At times I set the 
trap at the bottom of the river or lake and to the pan of the 
trap I tie a dead fish. Make the fish look natural and so that 
the otter will observe it while swimming past the locality where 
the trap is set. 

Trapping the Otter. 

Southern methods as used by R. W, Riggs in the swamps 



364 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



of Louisiana : The bait used and the way to set traps : 

"For Bait : The muskbags of a skunk put in a Httle alcohol 
to keep it. I use the bait only where otter could or do come 
out on logs, with one end in the water. Cut a place in the end 
of the log for your trap, three inches under water. Drop some 
of the bait on top of the log a foot from the trap. My best set is 




TRAPPING THROUGH THE ICE. 

without bait where they come out of the water. Otters come out 
in many places, but they have some places they always come out 
at year after year. These are the places I set my traps. I never 
set in their slides or at the top of them. I make only a water set. 
I use the No. 3 Newhouse trap and use two or more to make a 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 365 

set. I want to catch them in two traps and then they never cut 
out with me. 

"To Set the Traps : Cut a stick with a hook on it. Have the 
stick just large enough to go through the rings on the trap chains. 
Now wade in the water above or below where you are going to 
make the set, and do all of your work on the water side. Set 
your traps in three or four inches of water. If the space will 
take two, three or four traps, put them in. Put three traps to a 
stake and drive your stake into the mud out of sight. Cover 
traps with leaves and mud that you get from under the water. 
Do not put on anything that will float on top of the water. Leave 
everything in under the water in front of the set, looking as it 
was as much as possible. Then throw water on everything near 
you and your set is O. K. If you do not get him in a night or 
two, do not get discouraged. They may be oiif on a trip. That 
in Louisiana will take them about nine days on an average to 
make. But keep away from in front of your sets, and you will 
get him and maybe two of them if the space is large enough for 
them to come in together and you use plenty of traps." 

Trapping the Otter. 

Mr. O. G. Wells, formerly a Minnesota trapper, now located 
m Canada, writes us as follows : "The best deep water set for 
otter that I know of, is to take a live crawfish, tie a coarse thread 
to each arm close to its body but not in the joint. Tie both threads 
together under its body, then fasten to pan of trap, permitting the 
fish to move about, but not to get ofif the pan. Now take a forked 
stick or pole, slip spring of trap under fork, let cross bar of trap 
rest on end of fork ; now lower trap to bottom of water and 
remove the pole. The short chain of the trap should be attached 
to some object of sufficient weight, either a stone or piece of iron. 
Wide jaw traps are the best for this purpose, as occasionally the 
otter is caught by the head. 

"Crawfish is the favorite food for otter, raccoon and fish and 
quite often fish will bother the set and spring the trap. Should 
you find that fish disturb this set, then make another set, using 
the same kind of trap and place this near by. This method has 
been very successful, and I know positively that mink, otter and 
raccoon frequently visit these sets as I have seen their droppings 
in the immediate vicinity. When the otter is in search of food 
he goes to the bottom of the river and moves slowly, keeping a 
sharp lookout for food. Their movements are sometimes so slow 
and noiseless, that a school of minnows remains undisturbed. The 
otter can see everything around him, but while under the water 
is unable to smell, consequently sets of this kind are not suspicious 



366 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

and here is where the secret of success Hes in my deep water set. 
Bait as used in the above must be kept aHve. 

"My other method of capturing otter in deep water is as fol- 
lows : "I choose their playground and place my trap in a con- 
venient location. Upon the pan I place a bright, mirror-like 
object, either of gold or silver. This glistening object attracts 
the otter ; he will play in the immediate vicinity and will dive 
for the object and with one of his feet spring the trap and be 
captured." 

Trapping the Otter. 

Undoubtedly the otter is the hardest water animal to trap that 
we faithful trappers have to contend with, for in addition to a 
sagacity and cunning second to no other animal, he is of a roving 
habit. 

The male otter, in particular, has no fixed home except for a 
short time in the breeding season, but meanders aimlessly from 
one lake, swamp or stream to another, pausing for a short time 
whenever he finds comfortable quarters and ample diet, then 
pushing on again at his pleasure for "pastures new ;" always idle 
and inconsiderate of the rights of others — in a word, he is the 
veritable "tramp" of the fur bearing kingdom. The female is 
less of a wandering disposition, usually remaining with the young 
until the arrival of another mating season; the trapper who 
chances upon a domestic circle of this kind has a good thing in 
store if he but manages rightly. But he must be cautious, for the 
otter's eye is sharp and his nose surprisingly quick to catch the 
dreaded man scent. Its head is broad and flat, with very small 
ears set far apart. Its legs are hard, short with feet webbed, and 
are apparently set upon its side, which gives it an awkward and 
waddling appearance when travelling on land, which they do 
very little except when travelling from one water system to 
another. When there is a good tracking snow, these land trips 
afiford the trapper a good opportunity to learn their crossings, 
and to know just which lakes or streams they are using. Watch 
close to see where they leave one stream and where they enter 
another for there is a good place for your trap. Although a 
great rover, an otter will seem to have a certain beat, miles m 
extent, which he covers with more or less regularity, returning 
time after time to the same spot unless trapped. 

It would be useless to try to give all the successful ways of 
trapping the otter, for they are as many as the dififerent circum- 
stances under which they are met. 

A good method of setting for otter, whether there be one 
about or a dozen, is to find an old log crosswise a narrow stream 
about four or five inches under water, then drive old stakes and 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 367 

brush, taken from the bottom of the stream, along beside it so 
as to completely barricade the stream except for a space of about 
six inches at the center, where a No. 3 or 4 Newhouse trap should 
be placed, the log having been flattened sufficiently to afford it a 
secure resting place. Swamp grass or moss caught among the 
stakes and brush and allowed to float over the trap will usually 
be a sufficient covering. It would be well to prepare the places 
several months before the trapping season. Whenever possible 
make your sets by deep, dark pools, and arrange by means of 
the sliding pole to usher your victim under water immediately. 
If you have left a few stubs along the pole, so that the ring can- 
not slip back after passing over them, and firmly secure it to the 
bottom or under some rock or root, he will soon drown, causing 
very little disturbance. 

If your set is so situated that it is inconvenient to use the slid- 
ing pole, drive a good solid stake beneath the surface of the 
water, and loop your chain around the stake. Last, but not least, 
get an old water-soaked pole from the bottom of the stream, and 
lay across the trap chain, between the stake and trap. He will 
get the trap chain entangled around the pole and stake, which will 
be a great help in preventing him from digging or pulling out the 
stake. 

If you have used a good heavy trap, and have plenty of water 
he will drown, which is always desirable, for one animal spend- 
ing several hours struggling to escape from a trap will do more 
to create alarm among its brethren, whether it free itself or not, 
than will half a dozen properly disposed of. The great difficulty 
in trapping otter arises from the fact that he is so long in body 
and so short in the legs, and travels by sliding much of the time, 
instead of walking, that he is likely to spring the trap with his 
body, or else slide over without springing the trap. 

A very good set for the otter is where they leave the stream 
to go around an obstruction, such as a mill-dam or bridge, or 
where they leave one stream to cross over to another. A trap 
properly set at a place of this kind is about sure to catch, as an 
otter always lands feet first. In winter, they will be found 
around falls, rapids, airholes, and spring water where the open 
water affords them a chance to fish. If you know of such places 
to be much used, place several traps around it, just when a 
storm is coming up, and if the otter does not get along until the} 
are covered with snow, you stand a good chance of getting one. 
A few of the young and less cunning may be taken at airholes 
by putting a trap in the holes, resting it on stakes driven into 
the bottom ; but very few of the old fellows will be fooled in this 
way. Every one knows their habit of making slides. If you 



368 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



attempt to trap them on these, find where they leave the water. 
Fish is the best bait but get along without bait if possible, and 
in every and all cases use the utmost caution. 

A good size otter will weigh twenty pounds or a little better ; 
will be all of four feet in length from tip to tip, will stretch six 
inches in width at the neck and about nine at the root of the tail, 
and will stretch about five feet five inches in length. They are 
cased about the same as a mink with the exception of the tail, 
which is split the entire length, and is stretched out in the shape 
of the letter V, being about two-thirds of the width of the body 
at the root of the tail, which will be a little better than a foot and 
a half in length when stretched. 

A good prime northern otter of the above description is worth 
in the neighborhood of twenty dollars, so you see, brother 
trappers, the otter is a valuable piece of fur, but do not be in a 
hurry to count your money. Better wait until you have caught 
your game. Ever remember the word ''caution" and success will 
crown your efforts. 

H. E. DiLLE, 

Ridgeway, Ohio. 







Miscellaneous Articles. 

From Experienced 

Hunters and Trappers. 

Hunting and Trapping. 

WOLVES. 

Mr. Phillips, a Minnesota trapper, writes: "I set No. 3 steel 
traps for wolves in furrows about one and one-half foot apart, 
and place an eight to ten inch in diameter short log between 
traps, so that the wolf when stepping over the logs will step into 
the trap. The reason of my placing the traps in the furrow was 
because I found his tracks there, also that of the wild cat, re- 
peatedly. 

Hunting and Trapping. 

RACCOON. 

In trapping for raccoon, I find the place where he frequents 
and attract by tying a piece of bright shining tin upon pan of 
steel trap, and set two inches below clear water in some lake or 
stream. The coon will try to examine the shining object with 
his paw, and if trap is lightly set, will spring it anti be captured." 

RACCOON. 

"For the raccoon I take a brightly polished tin can and hang 
it on some tree or stake about twenty inches high. On the 
bottom, 12 inches from the stake or tree I set my steel trap, 
taking particular pains to set it right, and cover every part of 
the trap excepting the pan, on to which I tie a small piece of 
bright red flannel. I also hang some kind of a bait, either 
rabbit or chicken, just below the can on the tree or stake. The 
raccoon will be attracted by the can and place his paw on the 
flannel and be captured. Either the tin can or the bait is not 
necessary, but I generally use the two and have better luck. 

MINK. 

"For mink, if trapping about muskrat houses, I generally cut 
a hole in the house and set the steel trap about four or five inches 
from the hole. Cover the trap up and place a piece of muskrat 
just at the hole. At other times I set a steel trap on the river 
bank and use a piece of muskrat for bait. 

Chas Herd, 

Henning, Minn. 
Hunting and Trapping. 

SKUNK. 

"For skunk I use No. 15^ steel trap, and for a sure catch place 
the trap within the hole or den, but on one side and not in centre, 



370 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

as some do. I find the skunk along river banks, lake shores, also 
in the hills where the grass and weeds are plentiful and high. 
Cover the trap with grass, then a thin layer of dirt. To set traps 
on their paths, place some soft material under the pan and a 
small quantity of grass above the trap, then cover slightly with 
snow. Drive a twenty to twenty-five inch long stick into the 
ground, to which attach piece of rabbit or chicken, about fifteen 
inches up. Attach some kind of clog or brush to end chain." 

MINK. 

"I have caught many minks in my experience, but in recent 
years have used the Stop Thief Trap entirely. I proceed to 
places where mink are, generally along river banks and ponds, 
and at or about places where the muskrat lives. In setting Stop 
Thief Traps for mink dig a hole in the bank eight inches, and 
put a piece of a fish in the hole ; set the trap at the opening, and 
cover traps lightly with grass, so that it will look natural. I 
caught forty-eight minks this way in eight Stop Thief traps in 
one month. I consider fish the best bait and Stop Thief Traps 
the best for minks." 

Mr. Griswold,. 

Milford, la. 
Hunting and Trapping. 

MINK. 

"This is the way I catch mink successfully. Set the trap at 
the mouth of their holes, and cover smoothly with light earth, 
but if the ground is frozen then cover with rotten grass. If 
their holes cannot be found, select a place where the mink fre- 
quents and make a barricade around your trap. Leave an en- 
trance for the mink to pass. Put your trap in the entrance. Bait 
in the back so that the mink has to put his feet in before he can 
get at the bait. 

SKUNK. 

"Skunk can be taken in the same way as the mink, either 
by setting the trap at the mouth of their holes or by a barricade 
as commended for minks. 

MUSKRATS. 

"A funny way to trap muskrats is to take a plank, two by 
four, and chisel a den out, according to the size of a small trap 
(No. I is the proper one to use), and place the trap securely 
in the excavation, covering both the trap and plank with light 
earth. Then place the plank across the stream where the rats 
come. They love to run over the plank, and on being caught 
plunge headlong into the water and drown in a few minutes, 
so that they will have no time to bruise ,or twist their legs. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 371 

WILD CAT. 

"Wild cat are taken in the same way as raccoons, by baiting 
with meat and covering the trap smoothly over. The best way 
is to find a place where they have killed some kind of game and 
have left a part of the flesh for a second meal. Set your trap 
there and you will be sure of a visit. 

FISHERS. 

"Fishers are taken in traps with the same method employed 
in capturing mink and marten. However, the barricade around 
the trap should be stronger and the entrance larger, and baited 
as for mink. 

FOX. 

"One of the most successful methods of catching the fox is 
the following: To prevent the smell of iron from alarming 
the game, the trap should be smeared with blood, which can best 
be done by holding it under some bleeding animal and allowing it 
to dry. It should be set near their haunts. A hill of ashes, chaff 
or light earth should conceal the trap and it should be fastened 
to a clog of six to eight pounds. Wool, moss, leaves, or some 
soft substance should be slightly packed around the pan. The 
surface of the earth in the neighborhood should be brushed with 
some article, so that everything seems natural. Small pieces of 
meat should be scattered around and over the bed of the trap. 
Care should be taken to erase all footprints; so as t^ make allur- 
ment certain." 

. "Years of experience in hunting and trapping, not only in 
Massachusetts, Maine and in Canada, but elsewhere, and the 
fact of my realizing many thousand dollars for raw skins taken 
off by myself, puts me in a position to intelligently advise my 
brother trappers of one of the secrets of my success. 

"Every trapper knows that most animals shun the smell of 
iron ; to overcome this, traps are smoked, washed in weak solu- 
tion of lye, greased, also painted with a preparation of fat and 
blood. This is all good, but what I consider better is that the steel 
or iron part should be wrapped as much as possible with withes 
( removed from the bark of tree : it makes no difference from 
what kind of tree). I use. Newhouse traps. I consider them 
the best traps for all-around trapping. Last year I bought some 
Stop Thief traps ; these I also wrapped about with withes, and I 
was surprised at the success. Of course, the latter traps were 
used entirely for mink and marten, and only where the New- 
house traps could not be used advantageously. 

"M. A. O." 



372 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Hunting and Trapping. 

RACCOON. , 

"A good way is to take a steel trap, size No. 2 or 3, and 
set it on the edge of the water about one and one-half inches 
below the surface. Stake the chain carefully, hang any kind of 
bait, such as fish, part of a bird, squirrel or rabbit over the foot 
plate of the trap about two feet high. When the raccoon sees 
the bait he will jump for it and when he comes down will in- 
variably get his paws in the trap. The bait can be scented with 
a few drops of Oil of Anise, which can be procured at the drug 
store. 




HORSESHOE NAIL TRAP. 

Bore a 2 or 3-inch hole in a thick plank and drive slantingly 3 to 5 
horsehoe nails. Set in a convenient place or in front of some opening that 
mink, marten, weasel or similar animals are known to pass through. The 
animal will put his head past the nail points and not being able to pass 
clear through, and unable to return, becomes a victim. 



MINK. 

"Mink frequent the banks of streams, ponds and lakes, and 
can be caught in almost any appropriate trap — size No. 1^2 is 
used the most. When used in the water traps should be placed 
in shallow places where the water is from one to two inches deep. 
The bait should be a piece of bird or rabbit placed about two 
and one-half feet above the trap on the end of a stick, or so that 
the mink is compelled to stand up on its hind legs or jump up- 
wards to get the bait. It cannot accomplish this without tread- 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 373 

ing on the pan of the trap and thereby being caught. Traps 
may be set at intervals along the bank of a stream and about 
two feet from the water, properly concealed and .baited with a 
piece of meat, and a trail made by dragging a piece of meat, or 
flesh of the muskrat well scented with oil of rhodium between 
the traps, and any mink that crosses this line or trail will follow 
it to one of the traps. 

SKUNK. 

"Skunk are not cunning and are easily caught in a steel trap — 
size No. i^ or 2 are mostly used. The box traps are not so ef- 
fective on account of the stench which such traps are likely to get 
and retain after being used for this purpose. The steel trap, 
baited with a few small pieces of meat, fowl or dead mice 
around the pan of the trap is sure to be aflfective. A good way 
to avoid the awful smell that it throws is to approach as stealthily 
as possible and deal a blow upon the backbone near the tail, 
which will produce paralysis of the parts, and prevent the 
animal using his offensive powers. 

FOX. 

"The best way to trap fox is to make a bed about three feet 
in diameter of most any kind of chaff. Make it deep enough to 
cover the trap, size No. 2 is mostly used, and have some under 
the trap to keep it off the ground or snow. Make it smooth and 
level ; bait with a piece of fowl on the inside of jaws of trap ; 
also place some bait around outside of bed. Bait should be 
scented with oil of anise and put some on pan of traps. This 
will induce the fox to come up to the bed, and in seeking the 
attractive odor he will commence to paw and will step into the 
trap and get caught. It is important that the trapper in setting 
his traps for fox should use buckskin or fur gloves so that the 
traps will be free from human odor. A piece of fresh meat 
dragged along the ground will attract the animal from a great 
distance. 

WOLVES. 

The wolf can be trapped in the same way as the fox, being 
careful to cover traps in both cases. 

Ray Birdsell, 

Ossian, Iowa. 

Hunting and Trapping. 

RACCOON. 

Mr. O. G. Wells, Okotoks, Canada, states that he has been 
very successful in capturing raccoon. He attaches a live craw- 
fish to pan of proper sized trap so that the fish will be able to 



374 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



move on the pan, but not get off. Set the trap near the shore 
and if water is not deep enough, scoop out a hole into which 
set the trap. Arrange the crawfish so as to be partly under the 
water. When Mr. Raccoon is in search of food he usually 
travels along the shores of rivers or lakes, and in passing by 
one of these sets is quick to see the crawfish and as this is one of 
his favorite foods, he will readily reach out for it and in so doing 
springs the trap and becomes the victim. 




\t-\}Jl..-y. ,,,,.,.. 

,Jm<. Wife ^-1 




SNARE SET. 



The above illustration shows a snare properly arranged. Many wolves 
and foxes have been captured by this arrangement. The victim will en- 
deavor to get away, and. in so doing, throw the weight off the scantling; 
the latter pulls him oft his legs. The wire should be strong and the weight 
one-quarter to one-third heavier than the animal. A No. 2 Newhouse trap 
set at the opening may be an additional assurance of security and capture. 

OTTER. 

Take a tunnel set net twelve to fourteen feet long, with wings 
angling forward according to width of river in which net is used. 
The largest hoop should be 14 inches and the smallest five to six 
inches. The meshes at the smaller end should be one to one and 
one-fourth inches and those of the wings one and one-half to two 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trapper s Guide. 375 

inches. The net should be made of coarse, strong twine. Set 
tunnel of net in channel of stream, with wings apart, just as you 
would for fish. Place weight at small end of net. Keep all parts 
of net below the water. As the otter travels up or down stream 
quite regularly, should he chance to come the right way he is 
bound to get into the net and not being able to get out becomes 
a ready victim. 

THE FISHER. 

My method for trapping fisher is as follows : "Take a piece of 
fresh meat pork, beef, venison or chicken, roast it over an open 
fire until about half done; then smear or dip into pure honey. 
When cold, give it another coat of honey; tie a rope to it and 
drag it along the ground where you have reason to believe that 
fisher are likely to travel. Any fisher that comes across this path 
will follow it. It is preferable to have the traps set a few days 
before this bait is dragged. Place trap in some hollow log or 
stump, which has an opening at the base or make an artificial 
abode. Set trap at entrance and place bait within the abode. 
Smear honey at two or three places within the abode as the 
animal is very fond of this article. This is one of the best 
methods for trapping fisher. I discovered this in i860 when I 
found a fisher robbing honey from the bees in a tree. 

PORTABLE FLOAT FOR MUSKRATS. 

The float is a great success in trapping muskrats in early 
spring time. To prepare these portable floats, I cut chestnut, 
hemlock, pine or cedar logs that are from eight to twelve inches 
in diameter into pieces from three to six feet in length, according 
to diameter. The greater the diameter, the shorter the float 
may be made. I take the piece of timber to the water and im- 
merse it. Now I carefully mark the side that lies down, as 
nearly all sticks seem to prefer to rest on one side more than on 
the other side. This bottom side is flattened a little to make it 
all the more steady. We now proceed to cut a notch in the top 
side and in the center of the float. This notch is wider on each 
side than in the center and is cut down within one and one-half 
to two inches of the bottom of the log. A steel trap is set in 
this notch. When Mr. Muskrat comes along looking for some 
place to climb upon, he spies the float. This float is housed when 
not in use to keep it dry. When we place them we carry them 
in a boat. A staple with a ring is driven in one end of the float. 
A stake is stuck through the ring into the bottom if the water is 
shallow ; if not, a cord is attached to the ring and anchored with 
a stone to the bottom. O. E. Bartlett. 



376 Andersch Sros/ Bunters and Trappers Ouide. ^ 

Hunting and Trapping. 

BEAR. 

"After selecting a place to set your traps, build a V shaped 
pen and set your trap in the opening. Never fasten the trap. 
Secure it with a clog. Any short piece of timber will do, for 
black bear the clog should weigh about forty pounds; grizzly 
bear from ninety to one hundred pounds. Place bait in pen 
beyond trap. I find the best bait to be a good sized piece of 
fresh meat. Drive a stake through it to prevent it being taken 
away without an effort, and the bear in trying to get the bait is 




C. N. Dahney 



A Nice Collection 



Bristol ville, O. 



certain to get into the trap. A good plan is to smear the bait 
with some honey. A piece of cod fish placed near the trap is a 
most effective draw as the scent can be detected by the bear for 
a long distance. If possible, take a string of fresh fish and make 
a wide circle dragging them behind to as wide a radius as 
possible; after completing the circle place the fish in the pen; if 
any bear are near you are pretty certain to get them. 

COUGAR. 

"This animal may be trapped by the same method employed 
in trapping bear, by using only fresh meat as bait. But the surest 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 377 

way is to find where they have killed some animal and left a part 
of it uneaten. Secrete your traps near the remains and you are 
reasonably sure of catching your game when it returns for a 
second meal, as they hardly ever leave the neighborhood of a 
kill until the carcass is all eaten. 

Albert Rosenbush. 

Turtle Lake, Wis. 

SUFFOCATING SKUNK AND MINK. 

Have dug out many skunk, but digging them out is like work- 
ing in a mine on a profit sharing plan. Hard work, long lasting 
hours and small results. Probably this is alright for southern 
climates, but up here in South Dakota where the thermometer 
reaches thirty to forty degrees below zero during December, 
January and February, the ground is frozen too hard, especially 
if it happens to be in clay. During the last part of November 
or fore part of December if the frost in the ground is not too 
deep, it is no trick to dig three to five holes containing all the 
way from one to ten skunk each, in a single day. Here are m) 
methods : 

_. Take a pick and shovel, an eight foot pole and a gunny 

sack. Start for the holes in the morning, but not too 
early as the skunk does not always get home until it is good day- 
light. Have seen them come from their nocturnal visitation as 
late as 8:30 a. m. 

Arriving at the hole, I look for fresh signs, such as hairs, 
tracks, dung, etc. Having assured myself that the den is inhabit- 
ed, I put my shovel and pick in the hole and look for other open- 
ings, as quite often there is more than one opening, especially if 
the skunk should happen to be in a badger hole. H there is only 
one opening I immediately proceed to dig until I can see the black 
and white hair of the skunk. Then I slowly sprinkle earth all 
over the skunk, pressing it closely to the animal with my hands. 
I continue this process until I have four or five inches of dirt 
over the skunk, then trample more dirt in the opening with my 
feet, and this process continues until I have fifteen to twenty 
inches of dirt over the hole. I then depart for another opening. 
Having found another hole and assured myself that same is in- 
habited, I proceed as on the first den. After the process is com- 
pleted, I return to the first den, where the dirt that I trampled 
is removed, and with my hands I take out the dead animals. 
Second' Sometimes it is easier to smoke out a skunk than to 
dig him out, especially if the hole has two openings. 
I usually take a bee-fumigator or bee-blower as it is sometimes 
called, and blow sulphur fumes into the holes. Quite often I am 



378 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

compelled to cover the opening up just so that the hose enters it 
freely. If the den is inhabited, the skunk will come out on the 
other end, in preference to being suffocated ; but once in a while 
the skunks are too lazy to move and become suffocated, much to 
my sorrow, because then I have to go to work and dig them out. 
Have suffocated many badgers, foxes and wolves by the use 
of the bee-blower, and on one occasion captured a live bear in 
the Black Hills. He was not very much alive by the time I got 
to him, but I immediately put a collar and chain around his neck 
and a pair of hobbles on his fore feet, loaded him on a buck-board 
and started for home. He slept in a hollow log and of course 
it was very easy to get the sulphur fumes to his nose. I tell 
you when he came to I had a time. I was about two miles from 
home and having only a buck-board I had great difficulty in 
getting him to remain with me. I finally reached home and there 
is where the picnic started. But that is another story. 

R. B. A. 
GOOD POINTERS. 

TO MAKE DECOY. 

Obtain from the female of the dog, wolf or fox, the matrix 
during the season of coition and preserve in alcohol ; keep bottle 
tightly corked, and when you set traps be sure and take it along, 
leaving a little of the liquid on something near the trap, on a 
bush, rock, etc. ; also put some on the soles of your shoes. The 
animal for which you are trapping will come across this decoy 
and walk around and around and consequently will step into a 
trap before he knows it. 

USEFUL HINTS TO TRAPPERS. 

First : Make a trail in dift'erent directions around the traps. 

Second : A piece of raw fish dragged about, will sometimes 
help to draw the animal, for the reason that if you are careful, 
your tracks will be covered and the animal will stop to see, as 
he will think that there has been some other animal around and 
will not fear. 

Third : Be sure to leave everything as natural as possible 
around your traps. 

Fourth : Be careful to visit your traps often enough so that 
the skins will not have time to get tainted. 

Fifth : As soon as the animal is dead and dry, attend to skin- 
ning and curing skin. 

Sixth : Be sure to scrape off the superflous fat on the skin, 
but be careful not to scrape or cut deep enough to cut the fibers 
of the skin, as in this way many skins are practically ruined for 
market purposes. 



Andersch Bros.' Hun ters and Trappers Guide. 379 

Seventh : Never dry a skin or hide in the sun or by the fire, 
but in a cool, shady place, sheltered from rain or snow. 

Eighth : Never wash your skins. This is a mistake made by 
many. Simply dry tliem as taken from the animal. 

Ninth : Never use preparations in curing your skins ; you will 
only ruin them. These have never been found to be any good. 

Tenth : A good way in trapping animals such as the fox, 
iynx, etc., is to conceal your traps in a bed of ashes, leaves, chaflf, 
etc., being careful that the trap can spring. 

Eleventh : Always be sure that your trap is set so that the 
animal will go to it, and that it will secure him when he comes 
and that he shall not release himself. 

Tzvelfth : You should always smear your traps in melted fat, 
blood, or beeswax, except when trapping rabbits or like animals. 

Thirteenth : In most cases it is generally best to induce the 
animal to come for a few nights before setting the trap. 

SPRING POLE. 

A good way which I have found very useful in trapping 
animals that are liable to be devoured by other animals, or de- 
vour a part of themselves in order to escape, is to have a spring 
pole as it is commonly called. First cut a pole (green so as to 
bend easily), then drive one end in the ground, bend it down from 
the top and fasten the trap to it ; then fasten the pole by a notch 
or hook to a small tree or rock. The trapped animal in its 
struggles will unhook the pole and the pole will fly back lifting 
the animal in the air and out of the reach of other animals. 

HOW TO TRAP OTTERS. 

Go along a stream, look for the deepest holes where the 
fish are sure to go when pursued. Look about and you will 
see the tracks where the otter comes out of the water and up the 
bank and often you will find a small tuft of grass greener than 
the rest. Open and examine this and you will find the dung of the 
otter, full of bones and scales of fishes. Then dig out a place up 
the bank, the form of the trap, set the trap slanting so that the 
otter will tread on the springs, cover over with rotten wood, 
leaves, etc. Set the trap level with the ground. When done, go 
back as far as you can and throw water on the place where the trap 
is set and all round to take away scent of your hands, etc. To 
fasten trap, cut a pole, size of chain ring and set upright and drive 
in ground or tie with chain to a rock or tree. Before leaving pour 
a few drops of fish oil over the trap. 

Ralph E. Guscetti, 

Loyalton, Calif. 



380 



Andersch Bros* Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Hunting and Trapping. 

SNARES. 

One of the best snares in existence is the ground snare. It 
is made as follows : First find a sapling about ten feet high and 
original thickness so that there will be enough spring in it. 
About four feet from it drive a piece of board about four inches 
wide, one inch thick and four feet long. Next make a notch in 
the upper end of the flat side of the board and another notch in 
the side of same board. Now take a stick one foot long and 
make it one inch square and put in the notch No. 2. Then make 
a notch in your stick the same as the notch in the top of the 
board and make your trigger holder. Beginning at the post, 
drive stakes into the ground pretty close together and three inches 
high so as to enclose a circle in front of the post a foot in 
diameter, taking care so the tops of the sticks lean inwards so 




the wire noose will slide freely over it. The next is the snare. 
Get some strong, limber brass wire and tie securely to the top 
of the sloping. The wire should be about five feet long. Bend 
the sloping over and tie one end to the trigger holder. Now 
make your snare and put around the stakes and your set is ready. 
When the animal comes along he will have to get on his hind 
legs to get the bait and when he touches the bait the limb is set 
free and the snare catches the victim by the body and throws it 
up in the air; it cannot use its legs to get loose. 

MINK. 

Mink live along streams, rivers and lakes and feed upon fish, 
frogs, etc. The female mink does not run about like the male, 
but stays around the den and the male mink has to get the food. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters a nd Trappers Guide. 381 

They are restless and travel almost all night in their search for 
food. They form regular beaten tracks by their crossing and re- 
crossing, and a trap in such a place will nab a mink any time. 
A good place to set trap is under pile of drift wood in the mouth 
of small streams. 

A good set is to find a shallow box, having a weather worn 
appearance and bore half inch holes in the sides so that the water 
coming through will cover the bottom to a depth of three inches. 
Drape the sides with moss and dirt and put some live fish in 
the box and a few traps with them. The mink are fond of taking 
their food alive and here you have a set that gives them a good 
invitation. 

Another good method is to put two traps side by side and 
surround each by a circle of rock, the traps being in the water. 
Hang a bird about one and one-half feet over the traps. Make the 
bird look as natural as possible and you are pretty sure of getting 
a mink. 

Another method is to find a log, hollow in one end, and place 
in the water so that 'the hollow end will be about one foot from 
the other bank. Stake it down with stakes ; put some bait in the 
log and stuff up the end with leaves. Put your trap right out- 
side the log about one and one-half inches under water. When 
Mr. Mink comes along he stands a good show of getting caught. 

Another good way is to find a place where there is a little 
strip of land between the land and the water, drive stakes along 
the water side so they come together ; just outside the stakes set 
your trap and when the mink comes along and goes on the land 
the sticks will guide him directly into the trap. 

A good set in water is to cut a strip across the brook (if there 
is ice on it) about one inch wide and drive stakes across leaving 
a space about four inches wide in the center. Now build up so 
that there will be about two inches of water above the mound. 
Place a trap upon the mound and then cover up everything again. 
This set I can recommend. Other good places is to put at holes 
in the ice ; where you think there is a mink scrape off the snow 
and put a trap right by the hole, cover with rabbit fur, feathers 
or muskrat fur and place a rabbit under trap. When you have 
done this throw snow over all. 

Sometimes it is preferable to use bait and sometimes not, be- 
cause when a mink is hungry he will take almost any kind of 
bait and when he is fleeing he will take no bait. The best kinds 
of bait are fish, muskrats, birds, hens, rabbits and partridges. In 
the fall or spring it is preferable to smoke the bait as then it 
keeps longer. 



382 Anderscli Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Skinning Mink. 
In skinning a mink, rip with your knife a line from one hind 
leg to the other, and then rip it to the root of the tail. Skin all 
the skin off, even the claws, as they will then demand higher 
prices. Then take the tail bone out and proceed to skin down to 
the nose. Do not cut a ring around the leg with your knife half 
way or by the knee joint and then tear it off; skin all the skin 
off. Do not cut too many holes in the skin as the more you do 
this the less you get for your skin. Take plenty of time and do 
it right. Take off all fat and then proceed to stretch. 

STRETCHING SKIN. 

Get a board about four inches wide and one-quarter inch 
thick and three feet long. Make it narrower at one end, so it 
comes to a point. Make another board one inch thick and three 
feet long ; take the small board and put on the center of the large 
board and then put on the skin. If you do this you will have a 
nice skin when it is dry. 

THE SLIDING POLE. 

The sliding pole is very good to use when you want to drown 
animals. Find a smooth pole of sufficient length so it will reach 
deep water, drive in the bottom of the stream and fasten to the 
bank with a stake. Put your trap ring around the pole and fix 
it so that it will slip smoothly along the pole, the pole slanting 
from shore to deep water, you understand. When the animal is 
caught it dashes for deep water and the weight of the trap keeps 
it from coming up again. 

Morris Thompson, 

Blair, Wisconsin. 

FISHING FOR BAIT AND FOR FOOD. 

When a trapper goes many miles into an unbroken forest for 
a season's trapping, he is sometimes put to his wits' ends to 
know how to procure bait enough to supply a line of traps, 
especially if he has always trapped near a settlement where he 
could go to a near-by meat or fish market for refuse. Follow- 
ing is my method : 

In making up my outfit for trapping, I put in five hundred or 
six hundred feet of cotton cord about one-eight or three- six- 
teen inches in diameter. This is to be used as a set line during 
open water in a lake or pond. Next take say fifty to seventy- 
five taper shank hooks that will measure about one-half to five- 
eight inches across the curve. Now from a hank of linen fish 
line cut some leaders, four to six feet long, to be used suspended 
from set line, from twenty to forty feet apart. Now add one 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 383 

spool of black linen thread and a little piece of shoemakers' wax 
for lining the hooks, which is done by warming the taper shanks 
in a lamp or candle flame and rub them on the wax, then wind 
the third spirally around the shank. Now lay the thread on and 
wind thread back over line and hook to place of beginning, then 
form a large loop of the thread winding one part over the other 
two or three turns ; then take hold of loose end and pull the 
loop through. Wax the whole winding a little and you have a 
finished job, one that can be used on live bait mentioned later. 
All this can be done at home or in camp as preferred. It is al- 
ways well to take along an extra hank of line as you may need 
a bobbing line to fish through the ice with later on. There are 
two things more needed to complete our outfit, that is a minnow 
net — a piece of mosquito netting will answer very well, and an 
ice chisel — a two inch framing chisel will answer. And by the 
way, it is well to fasten a cord to the end of chisel handle and 
loop the other end around one wrist to avoid dropping through 
the ice, as the writer did the first winter he was in the woods. 
Think of cutting holes through thirty inches of ice with an axe, 
and a good ice chisel only forty feet away lying at the bottom 
of the lake — and you will use the cord. 

Now let us supppse we are in camp, many miles from civiliza- 
tion with outfit unpacked ready for business. We want a good 
mess of fish to eat, and some for trap bait. First of all we must 
have some fish bait ; there are no fish worms to be had, so we 
must do the next best. We start out with axe in hand and find 
a dead hardwood tree, preferably a hard maple. If a portion of 
that tree is well decayed, cut it down and you will find in the 
rotten section white grubs enough to fill the immediate needs ; 
that is to say, for enough to locate some minnows and fish 
enough for breakfast. Perhaps a word here about fish for food 
will not be out of place. 

The gills and entrails should be removed soon after being 
caught, then lay fish in a cool place over night; that gives them 
time to wilt (repent as it were) ; then they will lay still in the 
frying pan and not break to pieces. Now our fish are prepared 
for morning, and we have located a school of minnows and we 
have still a little sunshine. We cut a brush from oflf the branches 
and bend it into a hoop, say four feet in diameter and fasten our 
net to same, put in a small stone for sinker, attach three cords to 
hoop and lower it in water that is from four to six feet deep, 
either from shore, boat or raft. The net is now ready to be 
baited with bread crumbs thrown on the water and allowed to 
settle in the net. Chezv the bread well before putting it into the 



384 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

water and it will reach the net before the minnows knock it 
away from over the same. If bait fish are plenty, the first haul 
will give you all you will need for one week, as we do not pro- 
pose to have many hooks robbed as you will soon see. If we 
have a little daylight left, we run out our set line, using our boat 
or raft as the case may be, fasten the line to a tree on shore and 
anchor other end or run it across to another tree or bush and 
fasten. On our way back over the line we loop on our leaders and 
bait the hooks. If you hook the bait through the back as most fish- 
ermen do, you will have more hooks robbed than you can keep 
supplied with bait. Hold the bait fish in hand with head towards 
you, catch point of hook in skin on one side close to tail, run 
the point under the skin from one-fourth to one-half inch ac- 
cording to size of bait. Now turn shank of hook from you and 
take hold of curved part and draw shank and a few inches of 
line through hole under skin made by hook ; now catch hook in 
under lip and draw back slack line, and the first fish that swallows 
this bait is yours. If not taken by fish your bait will live from 
one to two weeks. When the ice freezes over, get out your ice 
chisel (with cord attached) and make a few holes in the ice near 
the shore, and use your longest set line leaders, if water is 
shallow ; but if water is from ten to twenty feet deep you will 
have to use some of that extra hank we brought along with hooks 
fastened on as already described. Cut some bars and crotches 
from the bushes ; the bars should be at least three feet long 
and three-quarters to one inch thick and lay across holes in ice ; 
the crotches about same thickness and tapering down to one-half 
inch and long enough to reach a little more than through the ice, 
say twelve or fourteen inches. Fasten line well up on crotch and 
if fish are large it is well to give it a turn around the bar also. 
These lines are to be baited just as we baited the leaders on our 
set line earlier in the season. You will find fish enough in a 
country that is worth trapping, to supply food and bait in 
abundance. 

F. H. Bassett, 

Waterbury, Conn. 
In Case of Animal Bite. 

If bitten by an animal, press or bandage tightly the part 
above the wound until it quits bleeding; then with the mouth 
suck out all remaining blood. Wash the wound with carbolic 
acid and water. Don't stop wound from bleeding too early, a 
bleeding wound is safer than one that does not bleed. 

A TRAPPER'S OUTFIT. 

To go away loo to 200 miles from any railroad and from the 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and 'Trappers Guide. 385 

next living soul, as I and my partner have done for a period of 
years, requires some forethought as to what to take along, espe- 
cially if on the first trip. The requirements of course, depend upon 
the locality, season of the year, and what is necessary in one sec- 
tion is undesirable in another. I am thirty-two years old and my 
partner forty-five. Both of us have trapped and hunted in the 
States before coming here. The first time we started we had, or 
purchased what we didn't have, the following : 

Hardware. 



I Axe. 


I Kettle. 


I Hatchet. 


I Bucket. 


I Rifle. 


I Frying pan. 


I Shotgun. 


2 Pocket match safes. 


I Revolver. 


2 Pocket knives. 


Supply ammunition. 


I Skinning knife. 


I Hunting knife. 


I 6x8-ft. tent. 


200 Ft. linen fish line. 


50 Steel traps. 


Fish hooks. 


4 Window glass, 8xio-in. 


50 Ft. rope. 


2 Table knives. 


I Camp stove. 


2 Galvanized iron cups. 


3 Lengths stove pipe. 


Needles and thread. 


2 Spoons. 


2 Watches. 


I Covered pot. 


I Calendar. 


2 Plates. 






Groceries. 


18 Pounds bacon. 


6 Boxes matches. 


15 Pounds flour. 


3 Bars soap. 


10 Pounds beans. 


I Box pepper. 


5 Pounds salt. 


3/2 Pound can baking powder, 


2 Pounds ground cofifee. 


yi Pint flask alcohol. 


3/2 Pound green tea. 




EXTR.J 


I Clothing Each. 


I Suit underwear. 


I Pair woolen blankets. 


I Top shirt. 


2 Pair socks. 


I Coat and pants. 


I Pair mitts. 


I Pair shoes. 


I Hat and cap. 



Such articles as were not required on our journey were per- 
manently packed in canvas bags suitable to be placed on the 
horse's back. The others were made in smaller packages, some 
of which were carried between us and the remainder loaded on 
the horse. 

We followed a Hudson Bay Co.'s trail for many miles, then 
chose a river which we followed for three days. After ten days' 
journey we arrived at the spot which we had decided upon, 



386 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

and were both glad to get there. We pitched our tent the same 
afternoon and the next day started to make a permanent log 
house. This we had fairly completed by Oct. 20th. The house 
was 12x14 ft. We lacked lumber for a door, anJ material for a 
window. On Oct. 25th my partner left for the R. R. station with 
the horse, for an additional supply of provisions, some lumber 
to make a suitable door, also lumber for stretchers, and 100 
additional steel traps. During his absence, I kept busy laying out 
trapping grounds, storing vension and other meat supplies, also 
getting a good supply of winter fuel. 

The question of food supply is an easy one in this section, 
especially since both of us are good shots. On November i6th he 
came back with provisions, traps, and a dog. 

Mink and marten were what we were after in particular. We 
took all the lynx and fox we got hold of, but neglected wolves, 
wild cat, and other low priced fur bearers. Before going much 
farther, I want to say it is a very good idea to take along a small 
supply of medicines as they come in very handy. 

The first part of February I took my turn to go to town with 
what furs that were dry, which were shipped to you at Minneapo- 
lis. When going back, I took along such provisions as flour, 
coffee, and a few more cooking utensils, matches, bacon, and an 
additional supply ammunition and traps. We did not entirely de- 
pend upon steel traps as we found them very bulky and as we had 
plenty of time, we made deadfalls, snares, etc. 

Everything went smoothly and we had no particular trouble 
or hardships the first year. It may be interesting to relate that 
just after a severe blizzard, we were obliged to take the horse 
into our house to keep him from being devoured by packs of 
wolves that surrounded the house one night. 

I would suggest and recommend all new trappers, especially 
those who want to locate in the upper part of Canada to choose 
trapping grounds pretty well in the timber, but always along 
some stream or lake which affords a supply of fish and better trap- 
ping on account of the easy access and habitat of fur bearing 
animals. Do not go it alone, but take someone with you. Neither 
wait until the last minute to start ; on the other hand, start as 
early as August or September. 

We have been up here now the fourth year but probably will 
have to change our location before next winter. The country 
is becoming slowly settled up. Furs are still plentiful and at 
these high prices a trapper can make as good wages in the four 
or five months as he can by working the year round in the states. 

We want to suggest and recommend to all trappers who start 
in this country, never to go away far from the cabin unprotected. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 387 

and when going away close and securely fasten the door. Do 
not wait too long in the afternoon before going home. A com- 
pass comes handy. Always pitch your tent or make your cabin 
close to a river or lake, and if possible near a spring so that you 
have fresh and wholesome drinking water. 

J. B. Johnson. 

Mark Stevens. 

Hunting and Trapping. 

A POINTER ON TRAPPING. 

Before setting out to trap one should examine each trap. They 
should be smeared up with grease or other fat and just before 
setting start a small fire and partly burn off the lard or fat, 
which will leave the trap just as soon as the steel is sufficiently 
hot enough. Some trappers prefer to smoke the traps in pref- 
erence to greasing and burning the grease off. After this is 
done the trap should not be handled with bare hands, and should 
be immediately set. Some trappers scorn the idea of smoking 
traps, smearing them with blood, grease, etc. By preparing 
traps the above way and handling them with gloves, the latter 
possessing odor of some musk (especially beaver or muskrat) 
animal's suspicion is certainly decreased, perhaps resulting twenty 
to thirty per cent, more strikes and victims than if traps were left 
natural. 

TRAPPING WITHOUT BAIT. 

In trapping without bait with snares, steel traps or home- 
made traps, it is necessary that the paths of the animals be the 
least possible disturbed or walked about, that the traps and 
snares be carefully concealed by being covered with leaves, bits 
of earth, rotten wood and other similar substances. The idea 
is to leave the place in a natural appearance. Unnecessary hand- 
ling and removing dirt, excavations, etc., are to be prevented as 
much as possible. 

LEADING ANIMALS TO BAIT. 

One of the most successful and often called Indian style of 
trapping is to drag a fresh killed, still warm and bleeding animal 
about lOO yards, in some instances, a mile, over the ground to 
the previously concealed trap or traps. The carcass is generally 
buried to a reasonable extent or fastened in one manner or 
another so as to detain the victim, which may be a wolf, fox 
bear or other similar game. Sometimes a hole is dug and the 
carcass (bait) thrown therein and the traps set about the hole. 
The Indian usually drags the bleeding bait on a rope or stick 
while riding a pony, thus avoiding human tracks or scent. 



388 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



SETTING TRAPS IN WINTER. 

"In the winter when there is a frequent fall of snow, with 
occasional thawing and freezing, I have experienced some dif- 
ficulty in covering traps so as to retain them in good working 
order. Quite often a thick, stiff crust has formed over the set 
and naturally small animals will not spring the trap,, and if sprung 
the jaws will not hold them due to obstruction. To overcome 
this difficulty I tried the use of white tissue paper with satis- 
factory results. Of course this can only be used when ground 




is all covered with snow and should be large enough to cover 
trap completely. To keep from blowing off, I usually put snow or 
ice on the corners. I always approach trap from same side and 
never approach closely unless the trap has been disturbed. 

Lewis Olsen, 

Hunting and Trapping^. 

The important feature in trapping is to set the traps 

_ where the animal is most likely to come and get into 

it, second that the trap will hold the victim and third 

that the trapper get best results in skinning, stretching and drying. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 389 

It is very necessary to have your traps free from human scent 
and iron odor. To overcome this smoke the traps over a fire of 
burning hemlock or cedar boughs, or dip traps in fresh blood, 
melted fat or beeswax. 

An animal, such as the fox, wolf or raccoon, should be in- 
vited to come to the same place several times before traps are 
set. Arrange this place with sawdust, hayseed, chaff and chicken 
feathers ; scatter bait adapted to the animal which you seek to 
catch. For the fox and wolf use the offals of chickens, bones, 
waste meat, fish heads, etc. For the raccoon use nubbins of corn. 
After leaving the above for a few days, and indications point 
to the animal having visited the place, proceed to set your traps. 
Scatter plenty of food, and see that traps are well fastened. 
Another way is to set your traps several inches under water. 
Then hang your bait directly above trap on a sapling or spile so 
as to make the animal stand directly above the trap ; in trying to 
get at the bait he will fall into the trap. This method can be 
used in many places, by having the traps well covered. In the 
water set, have a weight or stick arranged so that the animal will 
drown. 

Every trap should have a strong short chain attached to it, as 
animals will gnaw other like materials and release themselves. 
Traps should be so arranged that the animal cannot work around 
with trap and destroy its fur. 

Mink Set ^^^ mink set traps near a stream. If you cannot 
find any mink holes, make some, then set your trap 
in the cavity. Build up the three sides with bark and stones, and 
cover traps with grass and mud. In setting a trap, always have 
loose jaw of trap away from where the animal enters, for in many 
instances the loose jaw will raise up and the animal will walk 
over the trap. Arrange so that animal will walk into trap from 
the side ; turn your trap in this manner wherever possible. 

(For Illustration See Page 388) J. J. StORM, 

Preparing Traps. 

"All new traps which I purchase, or all old ones before start- 
ing out to trap, are boiled in hemlock or spruce water. Some- 
times I use hemlock bark, at other times their boughs, which I cut 
up in small pieces, and when the water is boiling the trap and 
chain are dipped therein for a few minutes and then permitted to 
dry. This removes the varnish and cleans the traps otherwise. If 
the traps are rusty I take sandpaper or a file and remove the rust 
before boiling traps. I have done this for years and find that the 
traps are not injured, as some claim that boiling has tendency 
to weaken the springs. J. C. Z. 




Prize Drawing of American Raw Fur Skins 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 391 

TO ERADICATE THE DISAGREEABLE SKUNK ODOR FROM 
CLOTHING AND BODY. 

To remove the disagreeable odor from the person, clothing or 
skins, is quite a conundrum. Following are the best methods. 

First — Hang the clothing up on a line and give garments 
necessary airing. 

Second — Rinse clothing so affected in a bath of moist hard- 
wood sawdust. If the sawdust is perfumed, so much the better. 

Third — Rinse clothing affected by the disagreeable odor of 
the skunk stink and civet cat in gasoline or benzine. Immerse 
them numerous times, then rinse and hang out on line to dry. 
While doing this never smoke or permit any fire in the im- 
mediate vicinity. If you can obtain naphtha, so much the better. 
Obtain sufficient to cover clothing and rinse two or three times. 
Hang on the line and the naphtha will evaporate in very short 
order, and with it the odor. 

Fourth — Wrap affected garments up in hemlock bark or place 
in moist crumbs of bark. Within twenty-four hours the clothing 
will be ready to put on. 

Fifth — Hold affected garments over fire of red cedar boughs 
and when they are saturated with the smoke and odor coming 
from the burning boughs, hang up on a line to air out. 
If cedar is unobtainable, use hemlock boughs or burn large 
quantities of pine needles. 

Sixth — To eradicate this disagreeable smell from the body, 
especially the hands, one can use naphtha, gasoline or kerosene 
and finish by eradicating odor of these oils, as well as the 
original odor, by washing the hands or other portions of the 
body with tar soap. Strong soapsuds from tar soap will remove 
the skunk odor quite frequently alone. 

At the tannery, skins are packed in moist hemlock sawdust, 
washed in soapsuds, or at times the odor is counteracted by the 
use of perfumes. If skins are not badly saturated, no attention is 
paid, as in the process of cleaning in the large revolving drums 
which contain fine, dry, hard-wood sawdust, the skins come out 
free from odor. These drums make about twenty revolutions 
per minute and the furs fall on pegs ; at every revolution they are 
submerged in the sawdust, which not only tends to eradicate all 
odor, but also cleanses the fur thoroughly. After this process the 
furs are freed from sawdust by shaking. 

Never use chloride of lime as that destroys the clothing. 
Neither is it a good policy to bury the clothing in the ground, as 
that tends to keep the nuisance within them, unless the pieces are 
spread out and then covered with fine, damp earth. 




SKUNK FARM. 

MANNER OF STARTING A SKUNK FARM; SIZE ANB 
LOCATION; NUMBER WITH WHICH TO START; 
BREEDING ; FEEDING ; TIME AND KIND 
TO KILL; DISEASE, ETC. 

BUSINESS of raising skunk for the pelt is 
not much different from the one in which any 
farmer is engaged when raising domestic ani- 
mals, either for food or show purposes. It has 
been established that the raising of skunks is 
profitable and legitimate ; and the outlook 
promises a fair remuneration. 

The skins of these animals will always command a market 
and it is reasonable to believe that the value of a prime skin at 
no time will fall below fifty cents and from that up to $2.50. A 
fair average price of $1.00 can be reasonably assured, and not- 
withstanding other valuable by-products, the skin alone is suf- 
ficient to make the business a profitable one. 

T St t ^^ °"^ should attempt to raise skunks unless he 
has studied their habits and willingly contributes a 
large share of his time in caring for them ; likewise 
must he be prepared to expend quite a sum of money in arranging 
a suitable location. Having accustomed and informed himself of 
the ways, habits and food of the animal, likewise the question 
of propogation and breeding, he should then look around for a 
location such as below described. Not to fancy the animal, to 
dread its existence, to get frenzied in coming in contact with their 
odor, and not to have patience, would naturally result in failure. 
The skunk needs as much attention as chickens and other do- 
mestic birds and animals. Their pens must also be cleaned, 
and a good supply of fresh water must be constantly before them. 
. Apparently this is an easy matter, but nine out 

^ " of ten give this important subject insufficient at- 
cat I onoT 

tention, acting hastily, and start without due 

deliberation. A small island, one that is not 
likely to be flooded in the spring time, is the most practicable. It 
need not be fenced in as the only danger lies in the skunks de- 
parture during the winter time when the water is frozen, but if 
properly fed and provided with a reasonable sized scampering 
ground the skunk will not migrate ; and if he does, nine times out 
of ten he will return to his den of his own accord. If an island 
cannot be secured, the next best place is a plat or location facing 
some lake or stream where the banks are somewhat steep in pref- 
erence to a sandy shore. Endeavor to secure a location on some 
point where two streams, or a lake and a creek come together. 



394 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



This makes an ideal location, especially if wooded. The size of 
the location depends entirely upon the number of skunks that are 
to be raised ; also somewhat upon the land, whether all parts can 
be utilized in making the smaller enclosures, such as breeding 
pens, pens where the female are to be placed while raising the 
young, scampering grounds in which large numbers can be placed 
together, etc. One not having at least an acre of ground should 
not attempt to start. Endeavor to have plenty of fresh water in 
each pen, and if consistent have the large pens in which the female 
are enclosed the greatest part of the time, open to flowing water, 




Skunks and their abode on a Skunk Farm 



From a Photograph 



or enclose portion of the lake front so that they may be able to 
obtain fresh water at any and all times. 

One not having had any previous experience 
should start in a small way. Twenty to thirty 
females is sufficient. It is unnecessary to have 
pairs, as one buck is sufficient to serve ten fe- 
males, and as the males are of no particular value excepting dur- 
ing the breeding season, it is unprofitable to feed a larger number 
than is absolutely necessary. With the exception of during the 
breeding season, they should be kept separate from the females. 



Number with 

Which to 

Start. 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 395 

No more than fifty females should ever be together and we believe 
twenty to thirty will get along nicer and with better results to the 
breeder. If you have more than this number, subdivide them into 
separate enclosures. 

It is important not to place immature males or females with 
the older animals ; neither is it advisable to retain undesirable 
broad striped species, as such .are unprofitable and should not be 
retained by any breeder. Only such as are robust, healthy, of 
good size, and of the black or short striped species, should be 
raised. 

Obtain their good will and at no time punish them. Skunks 
will not do well in domesticity if scared of the feeder and are 
afraid to be in his presence. 

P .. The breeding season starts during the month of 

March and seldom continues beyond April ; in 
about nine weeks thereafter, generally during the month of May, 
the mother brings forth a litter of from 8 to lo which she nour- 
ishes and retains until they are able to shift for themselves. As 
elsewhere stated, only strong, robust, well-formed, and as near 
as possible, black-furred skunks should be raised. During the 
period of coition the females should be placed in a breeding pen 
8 to lo at a time, with which put one of the bucks. If you find 
they are getting along nicely and not fighting, let the buck re- 
main for two days, after which time another buck should be 
placed with them. After the rutting season is over the females 
can be placed in the large scampering pen ; in about seven weeks 
they should be separated and placed into smaller pens, not more 
than two or three females to the pen, and if possible, only one. 
Hay, straw, grass, etc., should be given them so that they can pad 
their abode and make it warm. At this time they should be well 
fed, especially after the young are born. The female, even if 
penned up, alone, will not become very lonesome, being that she 
is able to see the others in the adjoining enclosure. 

As soon as the offspring are of sufficient size where they are 
able to feed without the mother's assistance, they should be penned 
up separate. It probably makes no difference how many there 
are in one enclosure as long as the pen is large and roomy. Give 
them a chance to make holes in the earth and become accus- 
tomed to scrambHng for their own food. During the fall months 
separate the male from the female and feed the former with meat 
and other well nourishing food stuff so that they will mature 
quickly. It is unprofitable to feed a large number of male skunks, 
therefore when December or January comes, or just as soon as 
the young males are large enough they should be killed and their 
skins marketed. 



396 Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trap pers Guide. 

It is of utmost importance never to permit any of the male off- 
spring of your farm to cohabit with the female ; on the other hand 
seek new bucks every year and take pains that the wild cues are 
not more than two years old, and that they are strong and robust, 
and if possible all black furred. All sickly looking male or 
female skunks should be removed from the others and penned up 
separately. 

. There is no reason to feel any anxiety as far as food 
is concerned, especially when one starts m on a small 
scale, thus educating himself as to the quantity and kind of food 
necessary, also feeding time. It is very desirable that the diet 
be confined as much as possible to vegetables. One should re- 
duce their carnivorous habits to the minimum ; probably only once 
in a week give them meat and even then endeavor to have them 
eat it cooked or partly cooked in preference to raw. At the same 
time if you find a rotten chicken or a deceased animal, give them 
parts of it at such times as in your judgment is advisable that 
they should have such food. Could hardly expect anyone to cook 
or bother to cook such decayed flesh. It is also essential not to 
over-feed the animal, for by so doing they are liable to die over 
night ; on the other hand it is of utmost importance to give them 
plenty of fresh water. The quantity of food is probably much 
more important than quality. 

The skunk will eat fish, eggs, nearly all kinds of vegetables, 
fresh or putrid meat of any kind, also bread and milk. The latter 
should constitute his principal diet after they are educated and 
become accustomed to it. 

Much of the food can be obtained for little or nothing by 
making arrangements with hotels in the city to keep such leavings 
separate, also with butcher shops, bakeries, etc. If one should 
make a habit of visiting such cities every other day during 
the summer and probably once a week during the winter time, 
he will be able to obtain all the food that fifty or one hundred 
skunks require, besides such as he should have in constant supply 
at home. 

Skunks will eat the following articles : Fish, eggs, bugs, 
birds, fruit, melons, apples, sweet corn, rabbits, chickens, musk- 
rats, decayed meats, scrapings from the table, meat and vegetables 
in general, and particularly milk and bread. 

Have been unfortunate in satisfying ourselves of 
any periodical or known diseases to which the ani- 
mal is subject. The great danger is from over-feeding; the 
greatest danger, however, must be avoided by keeping the males 
away from the females, and whenever the mother is inclined to 
shun her offspring they must be immediately removed, otherwise 



A ndersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 397 

they will be killed or starved to death. More deaths are traceable 

to over-feeding and to contact either by the male or female than 

to anything else. 

_. ... , In captivity skunks become quite tame 

Time and Manner of 1.111 r^ 1 i- 1 j. 1 

^.,,. _, , and the breeder is often obliged to shove 

Killing Skunks ,, ,. • 1 • 1 ^ j 

, T^ . them gently aside in order to pass in and 

out of the gates. When the weather is 

real cold, not before December ist, they can be killed, but it is 

well to kill one as a sample and if the skin is thoroughly prime 

others may be picked out for slaughter. 

Provide yourself with a long stick to which a wire is attached 
forming a snare. This should be placed over the animal's head 
and when the wire is at the proper place, pull it tight around the 
neck, lift the animal off the ground and in a few minutes he 
will be dead. Another plan is to take a stick about four feet 
long to which attach an iron knob. After you have chosen an 
animal for slaughter, with your stick strike the animal a sharp 
blow on the head ; seldom more than one blow is necessary. Lift 
the animal away from the others, either placing it in a sack or 
small wagon that should be handy for that purpose. It is needless 
to state the importance of skinning the animal promptly and 
that the skins should be properly scraped and stretched. Save 
the fat of the animals, which should be rendered, into clean jars 
or bottles. The gall and their scent bags should also be saved. 
The other portions of the body can be gradually fed to the other 
skunks. 

jj P It is advisable, notwithstanding you have located 

Sh Id your farm on an island, that same should be fenced 

. in. Especially is this true if one or two sides are 

_ . exposed to the water. The proper way to fence a 

farm of this kind is as follows : 

Plow a trench three to four feet deep and four to six feet wide. 
Set the posts six to seven feet apart in center of trench and at 
least twenty inches into the ground. The wire netting should be 
of a close mesh and not of the chicken variety, but the stronger 
kind used for fencing in pigs, gardens, etc. Dig another trench 
along the posts which will enable you to place the bottom of the 
wire at least twelve inches below the level of the ground (fourteen 
to sixteen inches preferable) . After such a fence is made, saw top 
of fence posts either flat or slanting, upon which nail pieces of 
two-by-four ; under these pieces a thin mesh of chicken wire 
should be nailed so as to prevent the animal from climbing over 
the fence. To make it more compact, nail a piece of one-by-four 
or one-by-six on the edges of the two-by-four extensions. This 
makes a very durable, comi.r.ct fence, over which no animal will 



398 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



climb. In making the fence along the creek or lake it is neces- 
sary that the posts should be set four or five feet from the shore in 
the water. The wire need not extend to the bottom, as the skunks 
are not in the habit of diving, therefore no opportunity is pre- 
sented whereby the skunk may become liberated. 

Amongst the various letters received we have quite a number 
who have tried skunk farming and have made it a failure. One 
party in particular who desires his name withheld, started in 
raising skunks on a large scale, paying $2.00 to $3.00 for the 
live animals regardless of sex, and invested a large sum t>.f money 




Section of a Skunk Farm 



From a Photograph 



in suitable grounds, fences, etc. The chief trouble as related by 
him was, that skunks did not multiply fast enough and that many 
died without sufficient cause and some were killed by the others. 
This party in particular, retained the skunks in a large enclosure, 
paid no attention to breeding, and probably had as many males 
as females. The food that was supplied the animals consisted 
of chickens, deceased meat, principally pork, beef and mutton 
and at times entire carcasses of young lambs were thrown into 
the enclosure. This same party writes us that fish made excellent 
food, but that all food of any nature was cast aside for fowl, 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 399 

either chickens, turkeys, ducks, etc. This party gave the skunk 
plenty of water, having troughs distributed at various parts of 
the enclosure. He is positive that a great many of the young 
were killed by the male parent. 

It is evident that the above mentioned party had little or no 
experience, and started in this without due deliberation and as 
stated in the first part of this article, no one should go into 
this business unless he likes it, and only then after he has studied 
the habits and ways of the skunk. 

SKUNK FARMING. 

I beg to acknowledge check, and here is my article on Skunk 
Farming ; trust it will be worth the money. I have given you my 
experience, and hope prospective skunk farmers will be benefited 
by it. Have had three years' experience in raising skunk. 

The first year I started with ten females and two bucks, and 
I thought that I found the secret of raising skunks, but in this 
I missed my guess, for when the young were two or three weeks 
old, they died, or were killed, just which I did not know at that 
time. All I had left of the increase was twelve young out of the 
possible sixty or seventy. 

I felt discouraged and like giving up, but the fact that the 
old ones would bring $i.oo or more next fall and the skins 
of the young ones just as much, I decided to try again, especially 
since I had devoted much of my time and spent quite a little 
money in fencing, etc. The following morning I removed the 
two females that had their young left and placed them with their 
own legitimate offspring each in a separated enclosure. No other 
skunks were permitted therein, and in this way I succeeded in 
raising eight out of the ten. When the little ones were three 
months old I let them loose and they did well. 

During June I increased the inhabitants of my skunk farm 
by twenty-six young captured by me in box traps, also got seven 
old ones. These I divided into four groups. Eight of the young 
were turned loose, the remaining eighteen were equally divided 
and placed into separate pens. All seemed to do well. The old 
ones were confined with the two bucks until such time that J 
could separate the males from the females. This I did a few days 
thereafter, and the new bucks, evidently only one year old, were 
held together in a pen. I was able to still further increase my 
inhabitants by capturing wild skunks, both young and old, by 
September 15th. During the months of July and August I lost 
six skunks (four old and two young ones). These evidently 
died through some disease. 

When fall came I had sixty-five to seventy skunks ; I was 



400 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

getting along nicely but felt I was devoting more time than was 
necessary or that the possible revenue permitted. Nevertheless, 
I was much interested and refused an offer to sell out for $200.00 
and $25.00 annual rental for my ground. 1 turned the offer down 
and put more energy in the business. During the month of 
December I killed twenty young and old skunks. From their 
pelts I realized $23.00. The skunks I killed were either broad 
striped or sickly looking, excepting a few of the bucks for which 
I had no use. The greatest part of this money was spent 
in wire fencing, and a little lumber. 

The season for mating was soon to start. The bucks were 
separated, each in his pen, I then took ten females and had one 
buck serve them. The next day I removed the buck from the den 
and put in another. In this way I was sure of an offspring. The 
coming May I must have had 350 to 400 inhabitants, and it 
taxed my capacity to keep each female separate. In fact, I had 
to devote my entire time to the skunk farm. I had little 
trouble about the old killing their young. Of course I lost quite 
a number of young skunks during the summer months ; but when 
fall came I realized $275.00 out of the pelts that I sold, and in 
addition to that I trapped outside so that my net revenue for that 
winter was between $425.00 to $450.00, and I had about 150 
skunks, most of them females, left on the farm besides. 

My farm consisted first of an acre of ground, which I later 
increased to three acres, and the third year before I quit the 
business, had six acres all fenced in. My location was an ideal 
one. I had a regular triangular piece of ground, having a lake 
•on one side and a small creek on the other. As above stated it 
was all fenced. I used a five-foot small mesh wire fencing, with 
posts six feet apart. The posts were cut by myself from adjoin- 
ing timber and were seven to eight feet long. The fence on land 
was set in center of a ditch, which I made by plowing about three 
feet deep and about five feet wide. The wire was one foot 
below the level of the ground and I left part of this ditch filled 
with water throughout the season. The posts were sawed off 
even on top, and on each one I nailed a strip of board, 1x6 six- 
teen inches long on which I fastened a twelve-inch wide wire 
netting, nailed flat and level with the top. On top of the fence 
which stood in the water I did the same, excepting that I did 
not run the wire clear to the ground, but managed to have the 
wire six to eight inches below the level. On the top the posts 
were sawed even and the twelve-inch strip of galvanized wire 
fencing was stapled on the cleats so as to keep the inhabitants 
from gaining their liberty if they succeeded in climbing the 
fence. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 401 

As far as food is concerned, the skunk eats most anything, 
but it is not advisable to give them too much meat. I think ani- 
mals fed on a meat diet are the ones that kill their offspring. 
Corn, apples, carrots, and similar vegetables were the chief diet 
during the summer months. There was an unusually large num- 
ber of frogs in the ditch, and of course those skunks that were 
near the fence helped themselves. Every week I arranged to 
give them some meat, which I procured from the butchers and 
hotels in the neighboring town. From the adjoining creamery 
I obtained skimmed milk and I always had a good supply of old 
stale bread from the town, which I got for nothing. The skunk 
will eat fish, eggs, etc., besides the vegetables heretofore men- 
tioned, and everything in the meat line, whether fresh or putrid ; 
the latter, however, should be avoided as much as possible. One 
of the main things is not to overfeed and always have a fresh 
supply of water for the skunks. 

The majority of the skunks were tame and no matter into 
what enclosure I went I had no difficulty, and only on a few 
occasions was I unfortunate enough to get a few sprays of their 
perfume. The skunks soon came to know me, even the' wild 
ones knew me after a few weeks, and I was able to go amongst 
them with my pails in which I carried the food to them. If I 
had any occasion to go into their pens not having any pails, I 
always carried some bits of food, especially meat, which I cut up 
into one-half inch chunks. When the skunk came about me, I 
distributed a few of these pieces. When I did not have any pails 
I always carried a stick and many times was I obliged to shove 
them aside so as to keep them from getting into or out of the 
enclosures as I opened the gates. The dirt that I plowed out of 
the ditch was scraped into large piles in various parts of the farm 
and into these the skunk burrowed. In one corner of each den I 
placed a box with two enclosures, which I covered up with earth, 
probably four to five feet high. I also arranged an opening which 
enabled me from the outside of the fence to look into their dens 
direct. Many times I congregated fifty or more females together 
and I found, much to my surprise, that each one knew their own 
place of abode, which they entered in the early morning hours. 
However, there were exceptions ; at times when large numbers 
were congregated, fights ensued and afterwards I never permitted 
as many to come together. 

When fall came I paid especial attention to the feeding of 
the animals. I also supplied them with more meat and those that 
did not do well were kept separate and not permitted to mingle 
with the others. During the first part of December, if the weather 
was cold and the fur thoroughly prime, I took a small two-wheel 



402 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

wagon and four-foot stick, which had an iron on the end, and 
went into the pens to kill such skunks that I picked out for 
slaughter. When I came to a skunk that I wanted to kill, I hit it 
a sharp rap over the head; very seldom was I obliged to give it 
another rap. I then picked him up and put him in the wagon 
and continued this practice until the wagon was pretty well 
filled. I managed to take care of twenty-five skunks a day, and 
always skinned, scraped the fat off and stretched the skins my- 
self. At first I did not save the glands or the fat; afterwards 
these were all saved including the galls, from which I obtained 
quite a revenue. 

The question of breeding and the result of inter-breeding does 
not always bring forth the same species. This reminds me of one 
particular female skunk that only had a small white star on the 
forehead and was bred to a black furred skunk, but the little 
ones were altogether differently furred. Some were short striped, 
others long striped and only two skunks resembling the father 
or parent, were in the litter. From my experience am under the 
opinion that if skunks are bred right, in a period of years the 
individual species and kind will be perpetuated. 

I also obtained bucks from a different section, and if possible 
larger in stature than my native skunks. New blood, coupled 
with strong, well-formed bodies of the desired species, and those 
that are very healthy, are essential, and I further believe that 
bucks should be changed every year. I never permitted the male 
offspring to serve any of the females on the farm. 

When I sold out last year I had things nicely arranged and 
by increasing the size of the farm could have had 1,200 to 1,500 
skunks at this time. If I should go into the business again, I 
should prefer Minnesota, Wisconsin or Michigan, and certainly 
not further south than Iowa, Ohio or Pennsylvania. The skunks 
in the north are larger, more robust, and the weather is more 
favorable to this business. I herewith give you a sketch of the 
farm as I left it, but I honestly believe the man to whom I sold 
will not make a success, in fact he and the skunks cannot get 
along. I am so situated now that I cannot take up skunk farming 
for a few years. Please withhold my name. 

OPOSSUM FARMING. 

Opossum farming is a legitimate business and a profitable one. 
They have been raised on a small scale as far back as 1873 and 
in one instance a southern financier raised these for a period of 
years quite extensively. In going into this business, one should 
study the habits of the opossum and choose a location that is 
quite natural and where the wild opossum does well. One not 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 403 

having any previous experience, must resist the temptation of 
going into the venture on a large scale, and like in all other in- 
dustries, sound and good business judgment must be exercised. 

Location ^^^^ place should be well situated; have running 
water and plenty of trees. To retain the opossum 
in captivity on a large scale requires a heavy expenditure. An 
ideal fence can be made out of six-foot galvanized wire fencing. 
The meshes should be close and the posts not farther than six 
feet apart. The fencing should be at least twelve inches below 
level of ground. Top of posts should be sawed off slantingly with 
highest part of incline towards the inside of the enclosure. Upon 
each post nail a two-by-four, eighteen inches long ; upon the under 
side fasten small mesh chicken wire fencing. After you have 
squared the inner edges of the strips that are nailed on the posts, 
nail a one-by-six board clear around the fence perpendicularly so 
that the protruding edge looks downward. Should one find that 
the opossum, after climbing the fence, can still get out, a piece 
of tin nailed on the inner part of this board clear around the 
fence will prevent him gaining his liberty. 

Food '^^^ opossum will eat most any kind of fruit, vege- 
tables, fish and frogs, but his principal diet is meat. He 
is not particular as to the kind of meat, whether old or fresh. As 
elsewhere explained, he consumes large quantities of frogs and if 
opportunity presents, many of the weaker rodents. In captivity 
he is fed with sweet corn, leavings from the table, melons and 
fruit and gradually becomes accustomed to a milk and bread diet. 
A small quantity of meat should be given him every day. This 
may be liver, lungs or other offals obtained from the butcher. A 
fresh supply of water is very essential and almost indispensable 
with the opossum. In addition to this one must be careful and 
not overfeed, especially the female. By constant feeding the 
opossum becomes overburdened with fat, extremely lazy, and the 
female seemingly inclined to shun the companionship of the male 
during the mating season and quite often no issue results. To 
do well the opossum must be active and not overly fat. 

D-^„, «,♦:«» The male must be kept separate, but there is no 
Propagation ...... '^ ^ ' ., 

and objection m placmg as many as twenty females 

Breeding together. After a time they become tame and 

being of a playful disposition, one can amuse 

himself by watching their maneuvers in climbing trees, fences, 

etc. The opossum is very reproductive, but I cannot intelligently 

describe the manner in which the young are born, as they are 

retained for many weeks in the pouch, but after three or four 

weeks begin from time to time to relax their hold on the teats 

and now and then are occasionally seen to poke their heads outside 



404 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

the pouch. A little later on the young venture to steal from 
their snug retreat in the pouch and are often seen on the mother's 
back, securing themselves by entwining their tails around hers. 
In this way she moves from place to place in search of food, car- 
rying her whole family along. It cannot be denied that the 
mother is much attached to her offspring. She also exhibits a 
considerable degree of courage, growling at the companions 
should they approach too closely, and as a Louisiana gentleman, 
who has experimented in raising opossums for the last two years, 
states, "that it is quite essential to keep the females separate as 
much as is possible when the mother with her young begin to 
inhabit the enclosure regularly." The same gentleman states that 
during the period of gestation up to the time the young are able 
to take food independently of the mother, she should be pro- 
vided with an abundance of good, wholesome food and water; 
as during this period the mother becomes very lean, due to her 
giving sustenance to so large a family. 

At this period the enclosure can be very small, as there is 
little danger that the female will endeavor to escape. Each female 
should have a separate abode. This can be a hollow log or box ; 
if the latter it should be covered up with ground so as to be cool, 
and if consistent large quantities of brush should be thrown in 
the enclosure and about the abode so as to resemble a natural 
haunt. One reason for having many trees in the enclosure is for 
the purpose of having the animals exercise themselves. 

The opossum can probably be raised more successfully in a 
smaller enclosure than can the skunk. It is only a question of 
time when the raising of skunk, opossum, mink and fox will 
become more extensive, and those who have the proper location 
and devote considerable time and patience to this industry, will 
be able to make it remunerative. The foundation of any business 
should be started on a small scale and increase gradually. The 
business is such that one can make a good living and in connection 
with such a farm, a good garden should be cultivated, partly for 
home consumption and the remainder to be marketed. One must 
not forget that the revenue derived from opossum farming is not 
alone from the pelt, but the meat is salable, especially in the larger 
cities. 

MINK FARMING. 

Mr. Schultz, a Canadian trapper, has lately tried mink raising 
with fairly good success. He writes as follows : 

I have chosen a place in which there are four large oak trees 
and on the side of a small rivulet. The size of the enclosure is 
about ICO by 140 feet ; I had this all fenced in. I was careful 
in making the fence ; I took eight-foot poles and set them three 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and TrappersGmde. 405 

feet in the ground. I then dug out a trench six inches wide 
between the posts and inserted twelve-inch boards on each side 
and filled this up with stones over which I poured cement. The 
cement I made out of five parts coarse sand and one part cement, 
well mixed. The inner board I left in the ground and upon this 
I nailed the lower portion of the five-foot high, thin-meshed wire 
fence. The posts were five feet apart, the top sawed off slantingly 
four feet and ten inches from the ground. On the posts I nailed 
boards six inches wide all along the fence. On top of these 
boards and immediately over the posts I nailed eighteen-inch 
long pieces of two-by-four, pointing inward to the enclosure. I 
was very careful that the inner edges of these strips were even. 
After this was all completed I started to nail the wire fencing 
on the posts, also on the board that was sticking twelve inches 
in the ground and as the wire was three inches wider than the 
length of the posts, I had sufiicient for a lap which I bent and 
securely fastened on the six-inch top rail board. After this was 
completed I procured eighteen-inch wide, close-meshed chicken 
wire fencing which I nailed on the inner part of the two-by-four 
strip, finally finishing the enclosure by nailing a six-inch board on 
the edges of the two-by-four, so that the four inches clear pointed 
perpendicularly into the fenced field. I have not found a mink 
that would get out. This six-inch board keeps them from getting 
on top of the over-hanging wire. The fence is so strong that no 
matter what kind of a wind comes along, it will withstand it. Of 
course the mink try to get out through the meshes and often 
succeed in twisting the meshes with their mouths. 

I sub-divide this enclosure into smaller ones, but am not so 
careful in the construction of these thinner fences as I am on the 
outside one, with the exception of where I keep the male minks ; 
this is made equally as good. Last spring I started with six large 
females, one large iDUck and thirty to thirty-five young cubs. One 
of the females disappeared and even to this day I do not know 
what became of her. The females were placed in two separate 
enclosures and the buck was fenced up all by himself. For the 
greatest part of the time until fall the young were put altogether, 
but at that period I found they were fighting considerably and I 
was obliged to separate the males from the females. This necessi- 
tated my putting the large females together into one pen so as 
to be able to have a place to receive the twelve young male minks. 
The season passed without any of them dying off. During the 
fall I w^as able to increase my holdings by capturing in a box 
trap another female. 

I fed the mink almost entirely with meat and to those away 
from the rivulet I carried two pails of water every day and during 



406 A.ndersclc Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

the summer months four pailfuls each day. In the intermediate 
time I also fed them with milk, bread, fish, etc. 

I dug a deep hole into which I placed a box, having ooie par- 
tition in the center with an opening through which the mink could 
travel. After setting this in the ground I made it fairly level, 
excepting the box which protruded about ten inches above. Over 
this I carried a large pile of brush, using care to leave a small 
opening through which the mink could get into the box if they 
so desired. A large part of the time was employed by the mink 
in climbing trees. On one occasion I fed them with live perch. 
These I permitted to swim in their troughs, but just as soon as I 
was absent the mink came eagerly to the trough, evidently smell- 
ing the fish. Watching them from a distance, it appeared to me, 
that they acted just as hogs do in grabbing for food. Evidently 
they did not use their paws but grabbed the fish with their mouths. 

During the latter part of December I killed nine of the young 
bucks. The skins were pretty fair but not as well furred, nor 
were the guard hairs as perfect, as on those that I caught in the 
wild state. However I realized the same price for them. 

When mating season came, I obtained a large number of wild 
females, also three males, which I dug out of their dens and put 
into two enclosures. Knowing the habits of the animal, I pre- 
pared additional abodes for the females. I then went to work 
and placed a buck in each pen where the females were and left 
them there a few days. I changed the bucks every other day and 
in about ten days put the bucks in their enclosure. Not wishing 
to keep the old bucks for a longer period, I killed them and sold 
their skins and realized a fair price. The season progressed fairly 
well and I have had no particular trouble except once in a while 
a few fights. During May each female brought forth from three 
to five young, with the exception of one which did not become 
pregnant. You can readily see that I had my hands full then. I 
expect that these will summer through all right and when next 
winter comes I will have at least fifty to kill besides retaining 
seventy-five or more young and old. 

Had I permitted the males to remain with the females after 
they had their young, I am sure the latter would have been 
killed. Have not observed any particular disease, and as a 
matter of fact do not see the mink very much during the day time 
unless in the early morning or towards evening, when they get 
on the trees. Many times I observed when one or more birds 
had lit on the trees, especially the larger kind, one or more of the 
minks would sneak towards the trunk, gradually climb up and 
try to capture the bird. In this they are quicker than a cat and 
probably more successful. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 407 

I make a habit of setting wire rat traps near the stables in 
which I capture house rats. Having succeeded in capturing one, 
the door is opened and the rat jumps into the enclosure, and in a 
few moments one of the minks will grab it by the neck and 
carry it away. Think that a large house rat stands less show of 
getting away from a mink than from a house cat. 

In killing the mink I find that a small 22 calibre rifle is suffi- 
cient. In fact a good air gun would kill them; of course I can 
get within a few feet of the mink and the bullet must strike side 
of the head; otherwise the small BB shot would not penetrate 
the skull. 

Mink Farm. 

I give you my successful method of domesticating and raising 
the mink. Also how to capture the old and young so as to get a 
start. 

The time to secure the young mink is in May or June when 
they are beginning to run with their dams. The stream along 
which they run must be quietly watched until you have located 
their trail and tracked them to their den. When you have located 
the den, you must be careful to capture or kill the old one first; 
otherwise she will carry them away. Either proceed to dig them 
out or capture them in box traps. 

A successful breeder stated to me that he does not attempt to 
tame the wild animals, but only aims to supply them with such 
necessities as are required. The food, as we all know, consists 
chiefly of fish and meats, and especially the meat of the musk- 
rat. The mating season begins the first of March and lasts about 
two weeks, never varying much from that date in any one locality. 
The female carries her young about six weeks. In the minkery, 
where the diet, water and conditions in general are more even, 
the mating season is more periodical, and in consequence the 
young of the different females are born the same day, or at 
farthest a day apart. One party who had six females stated 
that the young were born within twelve hours. The young are 
blind from four to five weeks, but very active and playful as 
kittens. The mother weans them from eight to ten weeks; after 
four weeks the mother begins to feed them meat which the young 
suck until they have teeth. The nest is made in some old stump 
or hollow log and is nicely padded out with soft materials and 
always in a locality where the nest will remain dry. I have seen 
the mother remove the young from the nest for the simple reason 
that the nest had become foul ; she finds another suitable place in 
which the young are deposited, she carrying one at a time in her 
mouth. The mother will care for them until they are three and 
a half to four months old. There are usually four in a litter. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trap pers Guide. 409 

Towards fall the mother separates them into two pairs, or if the 
number be odd, the one is left in the nest and the other pair or 
pairs are placed half a mile from each other and she decamps 
and looks for them no more ; on the other hand gets a different 
abode altogether. 

When the young are six weeks old they should be taken from 
the mother and put in a pen by themselves. After a few days 
they become accustomed to their surroundings and begin to play. 
The inner shelter should be in a box five to six feet wide and three 
to four feet high, somewhat raised from the ground. The box 
should contain at least one partition with openings through which 
they can enter. This box should be placed within a thin meshed, 
but strong enclosure. On top of the posts boards should be nailed 
so as to over-reach at least fifteen inches from the fence. If 
you find that the mink is likely to get away by getting his claws 
into these boards, line them with tin underneath. The pen should 
also contain a large trough which can be made by nailing three 
boards together. Have one side of the trough higher than the 
other so that the animal can get into the water if it wants to. It 
will also enable you to draw the water off as often as desired. 
Each enclosure should contain a small box in which the animal 
can be driven and shut up during the time the pen is cleaned. 

It is quite necessary to have an abundance of pure soft water, 
also plenty of shade. . This can be obtained by bringing the en- 
closure below a tree or to have parts of the trunk of the tree 
inside the enclosure. Unless the mink has a shady enclosure the 
fur will be pale and not become dark. 

A quart of milk once a day with some wheat bread broken 
fine in it, is sufficient for twelve to fifteen minks, but each mink 
should have some meat besides the above mush, at least once a 
day. In captivity one must ke^p the male away from the female 
most of the time, and especially after the young are born, as the 
buck will kill the young if he gets a chance. 

June 3, 1906. ' Louis Shook, 

Sperrard. W. Va. 
FOX FARMING. 

The fox can be successfully raised in captivity ; this has been 
demonstrated numerous times and with satisfactory results ; no 
less than fifteen farms are in operation, or were during 1905. 

To obtain definite and inside information from the most suc- 
cessful breeders is hard to do ; those that raise black, silver and 
cross foxes for their pelts, are close-mouthed, resulting in little 
information from such sources. Another reason is that 
the farms are located in some obscure part of the country, many 
in Canada, Alaska and on islands in the Pacific ocean. 



410 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Near Edmonton there resides an old man who has devoted 
ten years or more to raising the silver fox. On being ap- 
proached, he disliked being communicative, especially since the 
information was to be published. The following is the essence of 
his explanations : 

The silver fox can be raised in northern climates, but must 
not be confined in any unnatural enclosure. No attempt should 
be made to tame the silver fox as he cannot be tamed in a period 
of years unless forced to live in some artificial abode when the 
skin would have little or no value. 




• silver. Cross and Red Fox 



Time Well Spent 



From Natl Sportsman 



His farm was on an island of 400 to 500 acres and that was 
much too small in his opinion. He declined to state where his 
farm was, but recommended any small uninhabited island oflf 
British Columbia or Alaska, in the Pacific ocean. His reason was 
that the fox taken there cannot get away as the salt water does 
not freeze. Islands between the Slave Lake and the Great Slave 
Lake in the Northwest Territory are also good, but one must 
drive the fox, when extreme winter sets in, into some large fenced 
enclosure ; otherwise they will escape off the island. 

The fox should not be molested in the least. In fact, avoid 
them as much as you can. Do not let them know of your exist- 



Andersrh Bros/ Hunters and TrapppTS Guide. 411 

ence. Do not hunt, or try to see how they are getting along ; let 
them go it alone. Let them depend upon the food of the island, 
but if you find that game is getting short and food scarce, give 
them fish and meats of various sorts which place in some con- 
spicuous part where the foxes are likely to come up to it. Fish 
and fat in connection with some flour boiled together, makes good 
food for the fox. Always have a supply of dried fish, venison 
and rabbits stored for them, so as to provide them with food 
during a severe storm. 

As to raising them he had little to say. "Let them t ^ it 
alone," was his favorite reply. Nevertheless when the pelts w\:re 
prime he took pains to kill only the males. He also imported two 
or three male foxes from the mainland every year, which he 
captured in dug-outs, besides females, if they were of the right 
kind ; otherwise he killed them for their pelts. 

His ideas relative to the various species and uneven results 
from breeding, also manner of breeding, were different from those 
observed by others up to date. "Let them have their natural way ; 
disregard as to whether there are more males than females. They 
will mate themselves, and if they do not, you should not be the 
wiser. The more you try to find out the less you will know," and 
other similar answers were given to questions. Never kill a fox 
for his pelt until he has passed a part of his second winter. Kill 
the off-colored ones first ; do not let them breed with the black or 
silver. 

Summing up in substance he believed that the silver fox can 
be domesticated but that in so doing one must give them a wide 
strip of territory in which to travel and not molest them in any 
way. He had an idea that no different or like results can be ob- 
tained in breeding so as to result in one species right along until 
a period of years has elapsed, when all off-colored specimens were 
removed and kept separate, so that no other male would have 
access to the female at any time of the year. He also thought that 
the silver and cross fox were not a true species, but the result 
of interbreeding between the red and black foxes. 

Silver fox breeding has not been successful on an island in 
the upper Mississippi river, probably for the reason that the fox 
decamped during the winter time. Some returned, others did 
not. 

The silver and cross fox are bred in numerous parts of 
islands off of Alaska and British Columbia, also on some of the 
islands along the Alaskian peninsula and off the mainland between 
Dixon sound and Cook inlet. It is claimed that silver and black 
foxes are domesticated on the numerous islands north of the 
Hudson Bay and west of Baffin Bay. 



412 Anderscli Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Would not recommend anyone to try to raise silver and cross 
foxes even in Minnesota, unless in the extreme northern part of 
the state, probably in the vicinity of the Lake of the Woods, or 
along Rainy River, Rainy Lake and to Port Arthur. Undoubt- 
edly the mountainous regions in the western part of Ontario are 
very suitable, due to the numerous lakes, and very likely islands 
of sufficient size can be found where the fox undoubtedly would 
thrive. 

Red foxes like the wolf, can be domesticated with ease, but 
the skins usually are of little value due to their being badly 
rubbed ; but if the animal is not confined to a small locality but 
permitted to roam at will, the fur does not become matl^ed and 
rubbed, consequently the skin brings a fair price. 

THE LETTERS BELOW REPRODUCED ARE 
SELF-EXPLANATORY. 

Note — Letters Were Written Five Years ^go. 

Minneapolis, Minn., May 7th, 1901. 
Mr. M. L. Washburn, 

Manager Semidi Propagating Co., 
Kodiak, Alaska, 
Dear Sir: — 

We have more or less inquiry as to the manner of breeding, 
mode of living and the general character, behaviour, etc., of 
cross, silver and black foxes, and are often in the dark as to 
the corect answers. 

We handle 100 to 500 cross, silver and black fox skins every 
year and we draw our supply chiefly from Canada, therefore, are 
thoroughly conversant with the valuation of such skins and the 
general use same are made of both here and in Europe. 

As you have had long experience and are familiar with the 
manner of breeding, etc., will you kindly favor us with such 
information to clear our minds of the uncertainty. Some of the 
following questions are often asked us. Will you kindly favor us 
with correct and proper answers? 

Can silver, cross or black fox be successfvilly raised in cap- 
tivity ? 

What kind and how many foxes have you ? 

On what do the foxes live? 

How do they retain their identity if living together, that is 
silver, cross and black foxes? Or are they kept apart? 

How often do foxes bear young ones and how many at a 
time? 

Do you know the respective relation of a silver fox to a 
black fox or are they entirely distinct species? 



Andersdi Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 413 

Is a cross fox the result of breeding betwten a common 
red fox and silver or black fox? 

For what purpose do you raise the animals? 

Do you raise them for the pelts entirely or do you sell them 
alive, and if you do, how much do you offer them at? Any and 
all information that you can favor us with will be cheerfully re- 
ceived and we shall certainly feel under obligations to you. 

Should you desire any information pertaining to the fur trade, 
or any other industry located in the Northwest, we shall be pleased 
indeed to answer any and all such questions in our power. 

You will, herewith, enclosed find stamped envelope. Kindly 
favor us with a prompt reply. We are. 

Very respectfully, 
(Signed) "Andersch Bros." 



OFFICE OF 



SEMEDI PROPAGATING CO. 

Andersch Bros., Kodiak, Alaska, July 29th, 190 1. 

Minneapolis, Minn. 

Gentlemen : — We have to apologize for the delay in answering 
your favor of May 7th, as the writer was absent at the time and 
the letter awaited his arrival. Having been in the fox propaga- 
tion for fully fourteen years, — and during that time it has as- 
sumed considerable proportions — we are still at a loss to answer 
many of your questions as we feel sure you would like them 
answered. 

Question No. i. We are free to confess that with us the silver 
and black fox have never been successfully raised although some 
of the members of our company have and are successfully raising 
them in the east. 

Question No. 2. We are now raising the blue fox exclusively 
on the islands of North Semedi, South Semedi, Ukamok (or 
Cherikoff), and Long Island, also Whale Island, and at a rough 
guess, after the usual precaution of marking and killing has been 
taken, it is safe to say we have in the vicinity of six thousand 
foxes. 

Question No. 3. Besides the food that nature provides in the 
way of "beach wash" and birds, the artificial food furnished them 
is of a varied sort — dried fish, salt fish, fresh fish (in localities 
where it can be had), corn meal, tallow, salt sea lion and whale, 
etc., etc. — although the best food has been found to be a sort of 
mush made from corn meal and tallow with dried fish for the 
breeding season when they can't transport the mush to the bur- 
rows for the young or the female who always stays by the young 
for several days, being supplied by the male fox at such times. 



414 Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 

Question No. 4. We have never allowed them to run to- 
gether, as they are so closely allied that they would easily lose 
their identity, that is, they would interbreed until neither of the 
original bloods remained, or at least we are led to believe so from 
what we have observed and read. 

Question No. 5. Foxes breed once each year, begininng about 
February ist to mate, and bearing young in early May and June. 
They have been known to have as many as ten young in one 
litter, but three to six is the usual run. 

Question No. 6. The silver fox is said to be a cross between 
the Arctic or white fox and the black, the cross fox tc be a cross 
between the black and red fox. 

Question No. 7. We raise the foxes for their pelts, but are 
also willing to sell them alive, holding them at $110.00 per pair 
at owner's or purchaser's risk in shipping. A better rate might 
be made on any number of them by writing the secretary of our 
company on the subject (the officers of which will be found 
below). 

Fox raising in general has become a great industry, and while 
in its infancy as yet, it bids fair to become a profitable one. The 
islands used for the breeding of foxes are leased from the gov- 
ernment, and prior to the passing of the homestead act for Alaska, 
were exempted for the sole purpose of the industry, that is, all 
islands leased prior to 1898. Any further information in our 
power will be cheerfully given. 

V^ery truly yours. 

Signed "Semedi Propagating Company. 

"A. C. Goss, Manager." 

Fox Farming in Alaska. 

The following is an extract from the Governor's report of 
Alaska to the Secretary of the Interior : 

"This is being tried at many places. Most of those who are 
trying it confine their efforts to the blue fox. Those who are 
trying the black and silver fox have not met with much success. 
The habits of this animal seem to defy domesticity. The blue 
fox is more easily dealt with. They do fairly well upon the Pribi- 
lof Islands. This last season 232 were taken up on St. George. 
Mr. Applegate, of Unalaska, has succeeded better than anyone 
else. The skins, which he sent to London, were the best and 
brought the highest price. His ranch is west of Dutch Harbor, 
near Umnak Island. Some of those who are experimenting in 
this business feed the foxes and ship in tons of meal and other 
food. It is quite certain that the same care and energy given to 
the stock raising would bring in sure and richer returns to most 
of those who are engaged in it." 



How to Obtain a Copy of the 

STATE GAME AND FISH LAWS 

of the Various States and Territories. 

STATE AND NATIONAL GAME AND FISH LAWS are subiect to 
K.fnTprt tnT ^?,^'" ^° \^.^' ^""^ f"'- ^his and other reasons It fs advisaWe tir 
S hunt fa^'liarize themselves with the existing laws before starting out 

„„P^^^' ^'-'5' ANTELOPE and similar animals are protected in all Stites 
^"'Imo" ^S'J'J^t.'^^^"^' '^'"'^^ fo'' a Short period in each year 

FUR BEARING ANIMALS, excepting Beaver and probablv a few nth^r 
animals, can be be legally killed during the winter season in most S7 StSis 
and Territories as very few animals are protected by law and the skins nf 
^%^^Pi^^^^%^^S^}]y J^^Pturea can also be"^ shipped out oF the State. °^ 

..rpZJ^ Ef;;^ lnd*oM.erf^^S^ciot^a^n!;;iafe^?n^-nSfy Sv^^ry^st^te^a°n"d 

Dro?ePt^p|^<J„?VK'^5',v^"'^*^^'^®' GROUSE and other feathered birds aVe 
most StitP? T^rn^ni''"'''^ regulated by law in all States. The Game Laws in 
most States provide severe penalties for the killing, capturing or intention 
LirPM^'c.rc''*^^' °'' ^^^'"S possession of same out of season ^'^^^^^'on 

LICENSES are required in nearly every State for hunting- birds and v.io'V, 
game. Fur bearing animals can be legally trapped in most all State! and lo 
25c "to s'loTaT^^*";, ^"^T? privilege of hunting^'^an be hid by residents fo? 
itt'nn Aa- and up. Non-residents are usually compelled to pay $5 00 to 
*25^00. and in certain States non-residents are debarred by law fr^om hunting 
5>MIPPING GAME OR HIDES out of the State is reeulated hv law tho 
slTves^^Iori XZl''^ '^'7 ^tate-and Hunter! shoull^famllia^iJe^'Ijrem- 
ont nf mnc?«ff ^^^™^1°'" shipment. Deer skins can be legally shipped 
Pnr «li^= 1' States during the season if accompanied by a License coupon 
Pur skins can be shipped in and out of the various States though sornpi^' 
cStured!' "^^^^ *° """'^ "'^'"^ *h^* ^'''"^ from\'nrr^all%haTfre'Tneglllj; 
to t^hp''pnv^rnL"J.?'^'^^ i-AWS in pamphlet form can be had by applying 
Fish Warden or thl^^=!ta?i'^^a"''^ State or by addressing the State Game "^Sd 
the State or TerrUorvTh^??^«^"n ^'^^ Commissioners at the Capitol of 
Game T a w<r rifthi^' ■ ^^%V\ ^- Government issues in pamphlet form the 
fTS3?i1 T ^^ °Lt.^® various States carefully tabulated as well as the TCa 
tional Laws. The information contained in these bulletin! i^s vervror^' 
nwn^l'fl'yf ^l^ complete, and any one contemplating hunt n| outside of W^ 
'J^e(slpepfa' h^oTi:Lres°ir?rbtaS."a"n^d ^^^ t^B f£ 

rth^-a^.-KirSr^L-^?h'e^^^^^^ 

^^:^^^i^^ --rkti^s.-^ orm-L-^-^re 

State Fish and Game Commissioner Auerusta Main*. 

Commissioner of Fisheries and Oamo •• -Augusta, Maine. 

g=if of'SatY^^"" - : ::::::::::::::::::::: :iii^,- wis^^SSt 

cSS ^Z^, »' ?fn>e ani Fish ComralWlonera ::::: ::::%f''pluf' Se'Swl' 

State Game and Fish Commissionprs ~^ , ^."y- Utah. 

State Game and Fish Comm llionir -lOr • V ^o umbus, Ohio. 

State Game Commissioner Montpelier, Vermont. 

State Game "Warden v," ^oscoe, Illinois. 

Fish and Game Commissioners d ' " rHagerman, Idaho. 

State Game and Fish Warden Boston, Massachusetts. 

Forest, Fish and Game Commission • -Helena, Montana. 

Game and Forestry Warded Albany, New York. 

Fish and Game Commissioners t ■^- ' Poj;*^ajid, Oregon. 

United States Department of AgricuituVV °"^ Branch, New Jersey. 

Game and Fish Warden nvi'-C. ••••--.Washington. D. C. 

vvaraen Oklahoma City, Oklahoma Territory. 



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UNITED STATES GAME LAWS 



THE LACEY ACT. 



31 Statutes at Large, pp. 187-189. 



CHAP. 553. — AN ACT to enlarge the powers of the Department of Agriculture, 
prohibit the transportation by interstate commerce of game killed in 
violation of local laws, and for other purposes. 

Be it enacted by the Senate and House of Representatives of the United 
States of America in Congress assembled. That the duties and powers of the 
Department of Agriculture are hereby enlarged so as to include the preserva- 
tion, distribution, introduction, and restoration of game birds and other wild 
birds. The Secretary of Agriculture is hereby authorized to adopt such meas- 
ures as may be necessary to carry out the purposes of this act and to pur- 
chase such game birds and other wild birds as may be required therefor, 
subject, however, to the laws of the various States and Territories. The 
object and purpose of this act is to aid in the restoration of such birds in 
those parts of the United States adapted thereto where the same have be- 
come scarce or extinct, and also to regulate the introduction of American or 
foreign birds or animals in localities where they have not heretofore existed. 
The Secretary of Agriculture shall from time to time collect and publish 
useful information as to the propagation, uses, and preservation of such 
birds. 

And the Secretary of Agriculture shall make and publish all needful 
rules and regulations for carrying out the purposes of this act, and shall ex- 
pend for said purposes such sums as Congress may appropriate therefor. 

IMPORTATION! Sec. 2. That it shall be unlawful for any person or 
persons to import into the United States any foreign wild animal or bird 
except under special permit from the United States Department of Agri- 
culture: Provided. That nothing in this section shall restrict the importation 
of natural history specimens for museums or scientific collections, or the 
importation of certain cage birds, such as domesticated canaries, parrots, or 
such other species as the Secretary of Agriculture may designate, a 

PROHIBITED SPECIES: The importation of the mongoose, the so- 
called "flying foxes" or fruit bats, the English sparrow, the starling, or such 
other birds or animals as the Secretary of Agriculture may from time to time 
declare injurious to the interest of agriculture or horticulture is hereby pro- 
hibited, and such species upon arrival at any of the ports of the United 
States shall be destroyed or returned at the expense of the owner. The 
Secretary of the Treasury is hereby authorized to make regulations for 
carrying into effect the provisions of this section, h 

SHIPMENT: Sec. 3. That it shall be unlawful for any person or per- 
sons to deliA-er to any common carrier, or for any common carrier to trans- 
port from one State or Territory to another State or Territory, or from the 
District of Columbia or Alaska to any State or Territory, or from any State 
or TeiTitory to the District of Columbia or Alaska, any foreign animals or 
birds the importation of which is prohibited, or the dead bodies or parts 
thereof of any wild animals or birds, where such animals or birds have been 
killed in violation of the laws of the State, Territory, or District in which 
the same were killed: Provided. That nothing herein shall prevent the 
transportation of any dead birds or animals killed during the season when 
the same may be lawfully captured, and the export of which is not pro- 
hibited by law in the State, Territory, or District in which the same are 
killed. 

MARKING PACKAGES: Sec. 4. That all packages containing such 
dead animals, birds, or parts thereof, when shipped by interstate commerce, 
as provided in section 1 of this act, shall be plainly and clearly marked, so 
that the name and address of the shipper and the nature of the contents may 
be readily ascertained on inspection of the outside of such packages. 

PENALTIES: For each invasion or violation of this act the shipper 
shall, upon conviction, pay a fine of not exceeding $200; and the consignee 
knowingly receiving such articles so shipped and transported in violation of 
this act shall, upon conviction, pay a fine of not exceeding $200: and the 
carrier knowingly carrying or transporting the same shall, upon conviction, 
pay a fine of not exceeding $200. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



419 



Game Laws— Continued. 

IMPORTED SPECIES SUBJECT TO LOCAL LAWS: Sec. 5. That 
all dead bodies, or parts thereof, of any foreign game animals, or game or 
song birds, the importation of which is prohibited, or the dead bodies or 
parts thereof, of any wild game animals, or game or song birds transported 
into any State or Territory, or remaining therein for use, consumption, sale, 
or storage therein, shall, upon arrival in such State or Territory be subject 
to the operation and effect of the laws of such State or Territory enacted 
in the exercise of its police powers, to the same extent and in the same 
manner as though such animals or birds had been produced in such State or 
Territory and shall be not exempt therefrom by reason of being introduced 
therein in original packages or otherwise. This act shall not prevent the 
importation, transportation, or sale of birds or bird plumage manufactured 
from the feathers of ba rnyard fowl. Approved May 25, 1900. 

a On September 13, 1900, the Secretary of Agriculture (Circular No. 30, 
Biological Survey) extended the list of species which can be imported with- 
out permit, as follows: 

Mammals. — Anteaters, armadillos, bears, chimpanzees, elephants, hippo- 
potamuses, hyenas, jagaurs, kangaroos, leopards, lions, lynxes, manatees, 
monkeys, ocelots, orang-utans, panthers, raccoons, rhinoceroses, sea-lions, 
seals, sloths, tapir.s, tigers, or wildcats. 

Birds. — Swans, wild doves, or wild pigeons of any kind. 

Reptiles, — Alligators, lizards, snakes,, tortoises, or other reptiles (ex- 
cept in Hawaii — see Circular No. 36, Biological Survey, issued May 22, 1902.) 

6 See Circular No. 101, Division of Customs, issued June 28, 1900; for 
regulations of the Department of Agriculture see Circuia'r No. 29, Biologi- 
cal Survey, issued July 13, 1900. 

TABLE SHOWING WHAT RAW FUR SKINS ARE TO BE CUT OPEN OR LEFT 

CASED. WHETHER FUR OR FLESH SIDE OUT. ALSO ADDITIONAL 

REMARKS INDICATING COMPLETENESS OF SKINS AS 

DESIRED BY THE FUR TRADE- 



Kind of Skin. 



Bear 

Badger ' 

Beaver I 

Cat, Wild 

" Civet 

" Ringtail . 

Fisher 

Fox, Black 1 

" Silver . . , 
" Cross . . . 
" White ... 

" Red 

" Grey 

" Kitt or 
Swift .. 

Lynx 

Marten 

Mink 

Mountain Lion 

Muskrats 

Opossum 

Otter 

Otter, Sea 

Raccoon 

Skunk 

Weasel 

Wolverene 

Wolf 



Indicating 
whether skin 
should be cut 
open on the 
belly or left 
cased. 



Open 

Cased or open 

Open 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 



Indicating how 
skins are to 
be turned be- 
fore permitting 
them to dry. 



Additional Remarks. 



Fur side out. 



Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Open 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Cased 

Open 

Cased 



Flesh side out. 
Flesh side out. 
Fur or flesh out 
Fur or flesh out 
Fur side out. . 



Fur or flesh out 
Fur or flesh out 
Fur or flesh out 



or cased 
or open 



Leave head, feet and claws at- 
Feet off. [tached. 

Stretch round. Feet and tail off. 
Leave head and claws attached. 
Feet off. 
Skin should be complete. 



Flesh 
Flesh 
Fur or 
Fur or 
Fur or 
Flesh 
Flesh 
Fur or 
Fur or 



side out 
side out 
flesh out 
flesh out 
flesh out 
side out 
side out 
flesh out 
flesh out 



Tail and feet off. 

[feet off. 
Skin should be complete except 
Skin should be complete, [feet off. 
Skin should be complete except 
Skin should be complete. 
Skin should be complete. 
Skin should be complete. 
Skin should be complete. 



Take advantage of bounty. 



Preference, if any, denoted by heavier type. 



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ioooo 
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t^.-(\OvOaN^iOCOOrvJvo f^^fOt 
^'\dr^ "^ cm" ro vo 



>000000i000000000000»00 
)OOOOOO^iOOOOOOOOOOOCMO - - - 

)lOly-JCMO-TlOlO^OlOOC^OOO^^OOO>00 OOOfO 



o o o in 



r-•^Ol00c^^Dl^»lOaooc^oo^-.^^^lO\ooo' 



f-H i-H ro lO 



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.-H lO ro 



oooooooomooooooooooooo Qooo 
O O O O O O O O r^ lO o o o o o o o o o o o Q ooom 
OuOu^O'^JOiOOCO'^OOrCCOOO^OOtOuOO OOOCM 



JC-O 



ooo 



O O lO ^ 



30000000000000000000100 
O OO OO O OO O O O OO OO O ooo O CM o 
^ ON lO O O O O O lOO 00 O lOO^GO o o^o o__o O^uO rr) o 

* "^ -^ -tfl^CiOTrO^O O^VO' o'--^ 1^0*0*10 Tj-'o' in ri o" 



ooooooooooooooooooooo 

OOOOOOOOONOOOOOOOOOO oo 

in o o o^o o fo o^fo GO o o ^^in o o o o o^o^no 
fOincoc'inf^r^in^inodin^'inino^ o'om 
CMCMt^i-t in to o^ON com^o oo^^ 



00 ON CM ^ 



o OQ ooo OO O O O O OO O OO O OOOO oooo 
o oo oooo o ino oooo o oo o o o mo oooo 



00 r^ CO ^o c-i 



m UO rH ON 



oo oo o o oo o o o oo oooo ooo oo oooo 
ciooooooomoooooooooooino oooo 



.-no OfO 



o oooo oo oo oooo ooo ooo oo o oooo 
o ooo o o oo inmo o oo o o o o oor^o ooom 
o inmo ooo vo o o^foooo oo ocM ooo mo ooor^ 



oot^romfOoot^o.-immoofovommc 



) 00 in o o m 1 



.-( m mcM 



> Gr/ 



.^5«. 






o 



^a 



CD <; «> cd: 

mnnu 









X at; a^2o ij ijo-S a 



II o o 



«' eg 

S s 
0*0 



g« 
Si! 

s-s 

C3& 
S Ji 

cdA 
«< •' 
« a 

•<-' D 
U S 

T o 

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cd {I, 

rt * « 

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ago 

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a-o- 
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a 



KEY 

1 Animal is numerous. 

2 Animal is rather scarce. 

3 Animal is in sections only, 

4 Animal is scarce. 

5 None exist or unknown. 

6 Animal is nearly extinct. 

7 Animal is extinct. 



Geographical Distribution 

of 

Fur Bearing Animals of North 

America 



KEY 

* Regulated by Law. 
t No Law. 

X Panthers, Gaugars or 
Jaguars. 

I State or Co. pays Bounty. 

II Special Park Law. 

11 Special Laws in Various 
Provinces. 














_^ 










cd 










U 




u 






CO 


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b£ 












n 


0/ 


& 


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o 

b 

o 


o 
u 


X 

o 
b 

o 


o 

11. 

•a 

III 


o 


iZ 


oa 


rr. 


o 


OS 


O 


5 


5 


5 


5 


2 


2 


1 


1 


1 


1 


1 


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5 


5 


5 


5 


1 


1 


5 


5 


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2 


1 


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5 


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4 


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5 


5 


5 


6 


2 


5 


5 


5 


5 


4 


2 


4 


.5 


6 


3 


1 


4 


5 


5 


5 


5 


*2 


*2 


5 


5 


5 


5 


2 


2 


■; 


,S 


.5 


5 


4 


1 


t5 


t5 


t5 


t5 


t2 


+2 


5 


5 


5 


5 


2 


1 


5 


5 


5 


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2 


2 


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5 


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1 


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6 


4 


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6 


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6 


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4 


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5 


5 


5 


5 


2 


2 


5 


5 


5 


5 


2 


2 


6 


.S 


4 


4 


1 


.S 


t5 


t5 


t5 


t5 


t2 


+3 


.5 


5 


.■> 


.5 


2 


2 


*4 


6 


4 


4 


2 


5 


7 


5 


5 


5 


2 


6 


5 


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2 


1 


6 


*5 


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*4 


*1 


*5 


5 


5 


5 


5 


2 


2 


.■5 


5 


4 


4 


1 


5 


5 


5 


5 


5 


3 


3 


5 


5 


5 


5 


3 


1 


4 


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5 


3 


2 


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6 


5 


5 


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(!2 


f!3 


7 


5 


5 


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(i2 


(!4 


5 


5 


5 


5 


2 


2 


5 


5 


5 


6 


1 


4 


5 


5 


5 


5 


9 


1 


5 


5 


5 


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3 


1 


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.■> 


5 


•S 


2 


1 


*4 


5 


6 


6 


(*2 


5 


5 


5 


5 


5 


3 


3 


4 


5 


6 


4 


1 


5 


,S 


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2 


1 


*4 


5 


(!4 


f!4 


i!2 


5 


7 


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7 


6 


1 


4 


3 


3 


3 


3 


1 


5 


5 


5 


5 


5 


3 


2 1 



^1 



Alabama I 1 

Alaska *j 3 

Arizona f 3 

Arkansas 1 

California t 2 

Colorado * 1 

Connecticut * 1 

Delaware *i*l 

Florida t 1 

Georgia t 

Idaho * 

Illinois * 

Indiana t 

IndianTerritoryt 



Iowa **1 

Kansas + 

Kentucky t 

Louisiana t 

Maine .* 

Maryland * 

Massachusetts..! 
Michigan * 



Minnesota 

Mississippi t 

Missouri t 

Montana * 

Nebraska * 

Nevada * 

NewHampshire* 

New Jersey + 

New Mexico *|t3 

New York **1 

North Carolina. t 1 
North Dakota..*! 1 

Ohio **1 

Oklahoma * 

Oregon * 

Pennsylvania, .t 
Rhode Island., .t 
South Carolina. f 
South Dakota...* 

Tennessee t 

Texas * 

Utah * 

Vermont * 

Virginia t 

Washington t 

West Virginia. .* 

W isconsin * *1 

Wyoming II 1 

Canada 1! 1 

Mexico. ? 2 



6 


1 


2 


4 


3 


3 


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5 


2 


li 


3 


4 


2 


3 


1 


4 


4 


1 


2 


3 


*4 


1 


2 


,"> 


6 


2 


2 


5 


6 


6 




.■5 


4 


3 




2 


4 


3 




6 


*3 


1 




5 


6 


4 




.■5 


6 


4 




5 


7 


2 




S 


*4 


t4 


tl 


t5 


6 


3 




5 


4 


3 




5 


4 


2 




1 


*4 


2 


5 


5 


4 


2 


2 


5 


■6 


(!4 


5 


.■) 


*4 


(*2 


5 


S 


*4 


3 


5 


5 


6 


3 


1 


3 


4 


3 


1 


5 


*2 


3 


5 


5 


*4 


t2 


tl 


is 


*4 


2 


4 


5 


*4 


3 


5 


5 


3 


3 


4 


,S 


*4 


(!i 


3 


4 


*4 


4 


.■> 


5 


4 


3 


2 


2 


*3 


4 


•■i 


."i 


*6 


3 


4 


5 


6 


4 


1 


.S 


*2 


1 


4 


S 


*4 


fi2 


6 


5 


7 


4 


6 


5 


3 


2 


1 


,■> 


*4 


4 


4 


5 


6 


3 


2 


7 


*6 


3 


1 


3 


*4 


2 


4 


5 


*4 


2 


.5 


5 


7 


4 


2 


.S 


4 


(!2 


.■5 


5 


6 


4 


*3 


5 


*4 


i!2 


6 


5 


*4 


1 


^ 


5 


3 


3 


5 


5 


3 


1 


: 


1 



The above table, the result of a months' exhaustive inquiry and energy gives ready information 
as to "where and where not" any of the Fur Bearing Animals are to be found. The legal regulation of 
Hunting and Trapping (Game Laws) also Bounty offered and paid are modified by the various Legis- 
lative bodies ot our states also Congress, from year to year. Therefore one requiring latest informa- 
tion should write the Game Warden or to the Governor of the respective locality. For further 
particulars see page . 



The Following Table Shows Number and Kind of Raw Fur 

in London at Time 





HUDSON'S BAY COMPANY 




KINDS 


Totals 
1900 


Totals 

1901 


Totals 
1902 


Totals 
1903 


Totals 

1904 


Totals 

,1905 


Totals 

1901 


Totals 
1902 


Totals 

1903 




655 
8,856 

42,582 

3,437 
1,851 

5,831 

317 

2,906 

4,446 

55,329 

47,560 

928,199 

'9,160 
9,058 


1,141 
8,206 

45,001 

'3.679 

1,447 



5,912 

280 

8.487 

5.701 

56,491 

57.349 

1,650,214 

's.'dis 

1.967 


824 
7.512 

49,190 

"3,223 
" 1,970 

6,266 

491 

10,717 
9,031 

78,629 
66,360 

1,488,287 

10,273 
1,024 


447 
6,969 

38,636 

"2,580 
2,208 

6,185 

422 

5.549 

19,189 

54,395 
55,455 

924,439 

6,452 
7/7 


289 
5.276 

30,056 


489 
5,483 

48,255 


7,878 
13,618 

17,655 
67.476 

57,536 


10.915 

14,030 

15,334 

102,955 

60,258 

* 2.003 

31.938 

2,669 

3,141 

2.771 

37,824 

1.327 

43,992 

826 

15,764 

12,353 

46,791 

295.702 

2,958.508 

85.866 

167.324 

11.301 

406 

235,757 

835',677 

36,502 

599 

* 13,520 


13,543 
12,834 

16,504 

73,635 

78,227 

* 4.456 

29.934 

2,535 

3,685 

2,957 

64,4511 

2,186 

62,052 

670 

20.3411 

5,828^ 

55,106 

253,001 

2,979.460 

117,412 

168,396 

14,757 

463 

268,190 

"948.447 






Cat, Civet 


" House.. 


'2.090 

""2.'387 

7J8i 

490 

4,6.34 

36,028 

35,579 

55,889 

1,056,253 

'd'.is'ss 

404 


"2,801 
"3,626 

7',682 

599 

2,752 

48,365 

41,245 

47,235 

689,611 

'9^843 
264 


" Wild 


29,621 

3.481 

5,411 

2,97/ 

29,638 

1.497 

109.449 

1.374 

19,932 

18.222 

39,630 

333,448 

2,201,121 

88,208 

215,736 

16,215 

422 

306,680 

Voo'oii 

31,839 

876 


Fox, Blue 

" Cross 


" Grey 

" KittCor Swift) 
" Red 


" Silver 

" White 








Black.. 

Opossum 

Otter 


" Sea 

Raccoon 


" Hair . 


Skunk 


6,027 
2,589 

772 


5,682 
1.347 

635 


5.206 
1,790 

695 


5.427 
1,972 

627 


6.090 
1.196 

412 


9,032 
1,555 

456 


Wolf 


47,139 




1,287 


Erniine(& Wh.W.) 


* /3,425 



* Estimated. 

Newhouse Steel Traps. 

All Steel Traps which are stamped "S. Newhouse, Oneida Community, 
N. Y." are warranted free from all defects. Defective parts 
are readily replaced by the Manufacturers. 




NO 0. NEWHOUSE GOPHER OR HOUSE RAT TRAP. 

Spread of jaws SV2 Inches; made with or without chain. This is the 
smallest steel trap made, and not strong enough for muskrats, though often 
used. Can be used for weasels and ermines. 



Skins (American) Offered and Sold at tlie Auction Rooms 
and Year Stated. 







C. M, 


LAMPSON & CO. 












A. &W. 
NESBITT 


TOT.\LS 

1904 


Jan. 
1905 


March 

1905 


June 

1905 


Oct. 

1905 


Totals 
1905 


Jan. 

1906 


March 

1906 


June 
1906 


Totals 

3 Sales 

1906 


Totals, 

Oct. 1905 

Jan. Mar. & 

June 1906 


8.625 

10,135 

16.668 

60.173 

55,542 

► 2,375 


3.351 

3.589 

4,704 

10,211 

13,860 
201 

4,158 


7,197 

3,886 

S.922 

43,586 

23,982 

804 

5,327 

2.583 

3.437 

1.951 

22,792 

2.761 

41,731 

607 

11,749 

4,303 

22,502 

82,704 

1,020,527 

10,969 

112,665 

2,207 

333 

168.662 

317.824 

20.904 

316 

20.109 


2,107 

902 

2,780 

10.700 

10,958 
//2 

3,177 


552 
941 

1,587 
77 
7,529 
none 

369 


13,207 

9.318 

17,993 

64.574 

56,329 

1.117 

13.031 

2,583 

3,.S33 

2.878 

45,340 

5.129 

63,666 

997 

23,329 

21,521 

58,961 

145.112 

3.428,505 

37.924 

273,677 

9.164 

333 

326.431 

776,933 

38.118 

588 

31,881 


2,287 
2,477 

4.309 
9.835 

24,952 
210 

2,500 


5.955 

3.100 

8,414 

94.392 

35.508 

772 

5,884 

2,211 

1.513 

3.697 

23,565 

1.404 

25,496 

992 

3,702 

7.737 

21,136 

126,161 

1,074,550 

11,655 

220.000 

2.517 

505 

135.350 


5,022 

1,830 

1,246 

13,696 

16,784 

350 

7,454 

1,627 

339 

819 

18.651 

1.332 

15,607 

204 

4,023 

3,554 

7,684 

54,928 

545,235 

15,945 

222.250 

1.052 


13,264 

7,407 

13,969 

117.923 

77,244 

/,332 

15,838 

3,«3« 

1.992 

5.046 

53.701 

3,252 

52.567 

1.379 

11,060 

20.825 

40,346 

237.981 

3,166,982 

41.329 

635,299 

5.340 

505 

260,322 


2,602 

1.126 

8,463 

11,423 

6,452 


22,065 
2,385 


2,226 
614 


3,858 




48 

373 

6.266 

/.527 

11,673 

/55 

3.740 

4,917 

7,567 

14,218 

13.811 

103,057 
60S 


48 

183 

467 

109 

1,397 

119 

4,413 

3,«5/ 

3,967 

4.270 

146.471 

2,593 

10,533 

995 


140 

530 

11,485 

5/S 

11,464 

183 

3,335 

9.234 

11,526 

56.892 

1,547,197 

13.729 

193,049 

1,771 


72 


2,929 

36,416 

4,541 

44,605 

958 

14,209 

17,657 

62.093 

235.378 

3.547,935 

76,877 


371 

15,815 
732 
8,865 
116 
3,427 
8.650 

24,925 

43,920 

1,654,735 

10.551 

47,422 

5.357 


395 

12,641 

4«7 

16,443 

79 

3,230 

4.543 

7,041 

27.256 

839,182 


99,474 
16,111 

234 


279,427 
2.758 


323,465 


86.717 

'288,109 

8.250 

144 

5.047 


64.420 

'l63,847. 

8.075 

100 

5,472 


6,632 

4,15.^ 

889 

28 

1.253 


64.606 


60.366 


26.509 


847,605 

44.821 

1,134 

> 21.920 


274,544 

11.922 

227 

18.007 


445,051 

15.843 

757 

93.735 


205.420 

16.818 

239 

18.476 


925,015 

44,583 

1,223 

130.218 


165.490 

13.525 

43 

7.985 




NO. 1. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP FOR MUSKRATS. 

Spread of jaws, four inches; made with or without chains. While this 
trap is solely intended for muskrats, it will hold a mink, but it's not a 
good idea to overtax steel traps. Can be used for skunk, weasel, ermine, 
marten and other small animals. 



424 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 




NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP FOR MINK. 



Spread of jaws, 4% inches. Is especially made to hold mink, marten, 
skunk and swift fox. Will hold larger animals, but cannot recommend its 
use for fox, badger or raccoon. Probably more animals, the skins of which 
In the aggregate foot up a larger sum in dollars and cents, are caught in 
this size trap. 




NO. 2. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP FOR FOX. • 

This trap has 4% inch jaws, and differs only from the No. 1% trap in 
that it has two instead of one spring. This trap is recommended for cap- 
turing the red, gray and other foxes; is suitable for raccoon, badger and 
fisher. 




NO 2!/2- NEWHOUSE SINGLE SPRING STEEL TRAP. 

This trap was built by the manufacturer on suggestions received from 
experienced trappers. It is set on otter slides, the teeth are very sharp, 
and the curved plate attached to the pan is higher than the teeth. The trap 
can be sprung, by the animal touching the curved piece of steel with its 
belly, foot or leg. The jaws have a spread of 51A inches. The raised plate 
can be detached if desired, making the trap one of general utility. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



425 




NO. 3. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP. 
Spread of jaws, 5% inches. Will hold otter, beaver, prairie wolf, red 
fox, fisher, wolverene. Is also used for wildcat and lynx, but is not strong 
enough for the gray wolf. 




NO. 31/2. NEWHOUSE SINGLE SPRING STEEL TRAP. 
This trap has Jaws spreading 6l^ inches. Is similarly constructed as 
the No. 2% steel otter trap, but built expressly for trappers who desire a 
stronger single spring otter trap than the No. 2%. 




NO. 4. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP. 
Spread of jaws, 6 14 inches. This trap is expressly built for beaver and 
prairie wolf, but will hold most any animal, from the timber wolf dowiv 
Trappers use this size for the Canadian lynx, also for the brush wolf. 



426 



Andersch Bros/ Hunters and Trappers Guide. 




NO. 41/2 . NEWHOUSE WOLF TRAP. 
Spread of jaws, eight inches, otner parts in proportion; is provided with 
a, pronged "drag," a heavy snap, extra heavy steel swivel and chain five 
feet long. The latter is warranted to hold two thousand pounds. As above 
shown the trap weighs eight pounds. It will hold the mountain lion. 




NO. 5. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP. 
This trap has jaws spreading 11% inches apart, and with a short chain 
•weighs nineteen pounds. It is expressly made for the black and brown bear. 
The trap is furnished with a short swivel link, and large ring, all sufficiently 
strong to detain the monster, especially when its sharp steel teeth are im- 
pregnated in the skin or bone of his foot or leg. 




NO. 6. NEWHOUSE STEEL BEAR TRAP. 

This monster bear- trap is designed for the grizzly or polar bear, also 
shipped from this country to Africa, presumably to hold the lion. One of 
these traps was on exhibition at the Minnesota State Fair in connection 
with our (Andersch Bros.) fur exhibit in 1902, and thousands of trappers 
viewed this monster trap, all feeling assured of its holding the grizzly bear. 
The jaws have a spread of sixteen inches, and the entire trap as illustrated 
weighs forty-two pounds. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



427 




NO. 14. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP. 

Spread of jaws 614 inches. Is similar in size to the No. 4 beaver trap, 
except that it has 6 sharp steel teeth. The springs are also heavier and 
rise higher, thus readily holding the animal's leg in a vice-like grip. 



iinimiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiiriii. 




NO. 15. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP. 

Spread of jaws 11% inches. Has a % inch off -set, otherwise similar 
to the No. 5. This trap was made to meet the wants of experienced trap- 
pers who claim many advantages over the old style No. 5. 




NO. 211/2. NEWHOUSE STEEL TRAP. 

This single spring trap is similar to the No. 2%, except it is minus the 
teeth and raised plate. 

No. 31%. The manufacturers also make a trap similar to the No. 3%, 
minus teeth and raised plate, known as the No. 31%. 



428 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 




NO. 23. NEWHOUSE STEEL CLUTCH TRAP. 

The above corresponds in size and spread of jaws with the No. 3 New- 
house. This clutch attachment was originally sent to the manufacturer by 
an old trapper, the inventor, who has had wonderful success with it In 
taking beaver. He sets it under water at the right depth, with the clutch 
end farthest from the shore, and sticks two small twigs upright in the 
ground just on the landward side of the trap. The beaver swims with his 
forelegs folded back against his body, propelling himself by his hind feet. 
When he feels his breast touch the bank or any obstruction, he puts down 
his forefeet. The trapper can calculate the position of the trap and up- 
right twigs so that the beaver will put his forefoot into the trap and spring 
it, when the clutch will seize him securely. Clutch attachment can be re- 
moved. 

No. 24. The manufacturers have a trap known as the No. 24, which In 
size and spread of jaws, corresponds with the No. 4 steel trap, but has the 
above clutch feature. 




NO. 50. NEWHOUSE BEAR TRAP. 
Spread of jaws 9 inches, weighs as above 11 1^ lbs. In construction 
It resembles the No. 5, except being smaller. It is intended for smaller 
bears. 




NO. 81. •NEWHOUSE WEBBED JAW TRAP. 
Spread of jaws 4 inches; corresponds in size and width to the No. 1. 
This style of trap is designed to prevent the animal from gnawing their 
legs off. 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



429 




NO. 91. NEWHOUSE DOUBLE JAW TRAP. 

A new style of trap that takes a firm grip high upon the animal's leg. 
Muskrats do not usually gnaw but twist their legs out, especially when caught 
by the foreleg which has much smaller bones and less muscle than the hind 
leg. These traps rarely break the leg bone, because of the double jaw sur- 
face. Spread of jaws S^^ inches. 

No. 91^/^. The manufacturers make a double jaw trap, corresponding 
in size with the No. 1\^ except width of jaws is 6^/^ inches. 




NO. 150. NEWHOUSE BEAR TRAP. 
Spread of Jaws 9 inches. Is identical with trap No. 50, excepting trap 
has a % inch off-set jaws, which allows the springs to come up higher, thus 
securing a better grip. Weight, as per illustration, llVi lbs. 




NEWHOUSE CLAMPS FOR SETTING STEEL TRAPS. 
These clamps are made to overcome the difficulty and danger of setting 
steel traps, especially the larger size. They are made in three sizes. 

No. 4. Clamp for traps up to No. 4. 

No. 5 Clamp for all large sizes including No. 6. 

No. 6 Clamp a still stronger clamp than No. 5, for same size traps. 



430 



Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



Victor Steel Traps. 



The most popular cheap trap made. When in want of a low priced trap, 
call for the Victor and take no substitute. 




The above cut represents the single spring Victor traps, sizes 0, 1, 1%. 
These traps are used for catching small fur-bearing animals, such as skunk, 
opossum, muskrat, etc. 




The Nos. 2, 3 and 4 Victor traps are made with strong double springs 
and are used for catching the fox, beaver and animals of similar size. All 
Victor traps are supplied .with patented wire chains. 




Andersch Bros.' Hunters and Trappers Guide. 



431 



Tree Trap. 




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P 




1 


^B^ 


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1 


mE^^' ^^ "\riM!^l 


1 


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1 



Cut shows a No. 1 Tree trap, prop- 
erly fastened to a tree, set and ready 
for business. 



Cut shows a No. 2 Tree trap hold- 
ing a raccoon in a vice-like grip. 



No. 1. Tree traps are especially adapted to mink, marten and similar 
sized animals. Traps are usually fastened on trees 3 to 5 feet above the 
ground, but can be utilized advantageously elsewhere. 

No. 2 Tree traps are adapted to capture fisher, raccoon and opossum. 




STOP THIEF WIRE TRAP. 
This trap is very effective, humane, and is highly endorsed by leading 
trappers, especially the first three sizes. 

Made in 4 Sizes. 
No. 1. Gopher or Squirrel. No. 3. Skunk. 

No. 2. Mink or Marten. No. 3>^. Raccoon or Badger. 



GENERAL INDEX. 



Description of Fur Bearing Animals. 



Badger 52 

Bear, Black 99, I5S 

Brown 102, 154 

Cinnamon 102 

Grizzly 105 

Polar 106 

Beaver 125, 153 

Cat, Civet 49 

Ringtail 114 

Wild 57 

Cougar 67 

Ermine 19 

Fisher 31 

Fox, Arctic 157 

Black 95, 156 

Blue 97 

Cross 93, 156 

Grey 88 

Kitt 90 

Red 83, 156 

Silver Grey 94, 156 

Swift ........ 90 

White 97 



Jaguar 69 

Lynx 60, 160 

Marten 29, 159 

Mink, All Sections . . 23 to 27-159 

Cotton 25 

Fish 25 

Mountain Lion 67 

Muskrat 121 

Opossum 117 

Otter, Land 135, 152 

Sea 139, 150 

Raccoon 109 

Seals, Alaska Fur . 146, 149 

Seals 143 

Skunk 39 

Weasel, Brown 15 

White 13 

Wolf, Black 74 

Brush "72, 

Prairie or Coyote ... ^^ 

Timber 71 

White id 

Wolverine 35 



Illustrations of Fur Bearing Animals. 



Badger 54 

Bear, Black ... 88, 100, 192, 246 

Grizzly 104 

Polar 98 

Beaver, Beavers at Work . . . 124 

Male Beaver 126 

Young Beaver 206 

Cat, Civet 50 

Ring Tail ...... 115 

Wild 56 

Wild, Head 57 

Wild, Northern .... 58 

Wild ........ 59 

Cougar, Rocky Mountain ... 70 

Ermine 18 

Fisher 13, 32 

F"ox, Black 96 

Grey 89 

Heads , , 93 

Kitt 84, 92 

Red . . . 84 

Red and Family .... 82 

Red, Northern .... 86 

Silver Grey 92 



Fox, Swift 84, 92 

White 96 

Jaguar 8 

Lynx, Canadian 206 

Young 64 

Marten 28 

Mink 39 

Northern 22, 206 

Mountain Lion 66, 208 

Young 68 

Muskrat, Group of 120 

Muskrat 112 

Opossum, Opossum and Family 116 

Southern 118 

Otters at Home . . ... 134 

Rabbit .......... 65 

Rabbit and Family ... 99 

Cottontail 112 

Jack 112 

Raccoon 112, 246 

At Home no 

Missouri 194 

Northern 108 

So. Western 109 



Illustrations of Fur Bearing Animals— Continued. 



Seals 142 

Squirrel 39, 206 

Skunk, Striped 40 

Weasel, White 18, 112 

Wolf, Brush 74 



Wolf, Coyote Hunt . . 

Head of Wolf. . 

Prairie .... 

Timber, Group of 
Wolverine, Canadian 



75 
69 
78 
72 
36 



Illustrations of Skins. 



American Raw Fur Skins . 

Badger 

Baling Raw Fur Skins . . 
Bear, Black 

Brown 

Grizzly 

Beaver . 

Beaver 

Cat, Civet 

Wild 

Ermine 

Fisher 

Fox, Black 

Grey 

Kitt 

Red . . . 174, 176, 

Silver Grey .... 

Swift 

Lynx 



• 390 

202, 390 
. 210 

190, 390 

, . 190 

. 190 

190, 216 

• 390 
200, 390 
176, 390 
162, 390 
168, 390 
. • 390 
174, 390 
174, 390 
214, 390 

. 390 
174. 390 
204, 390 



Marten 166, 390 

Pile of 190 

Russian (Sable) .... 218 

Mink 164, 166, 390 

Muskrat 180, 390 

Opossum 202, 390 

Otter 390 

Northern 218 

Sea . . .... 148 

Raccoon 390 

Seal, Fur 148 

Marbled 148 

Skunk, Miscellaneous . 196, 198, 390 

Weasel 390 

White 162 

Wolf, Black 184 

Prairie 180, 390 

Timber 178, 390 

Wolverine 390 



Illustrations of 
Traps, Snares, Trap Sets, Spring & Sliding Poles, Etc. 



Barrel Traps — 

Muskrat and Mink . . . 264 

Muskrat and Mink . . . 354 

Skunk 264 

Box Sets or Traps — 

Floating Box for Muskrat 356 

Animals and Birds . . . 290 

Animals and Birds . . . 292 

Mink, Fox, Raccoon, etc. 314 

Muskrat 273 

Skunk '. 294 

Skunk &i Rabbits . . . 264 

Deadfalls — ' 

All Kinds of Animals . . 270 

All kinds of Animals . . 271 

All kinds of Animals . . 328 

Fox, Wolf, Lynx, etc. . . 302 
Lynx, Fox, Wolverine, 

etc 326 

Wild Cat, Lynx, Rac- 
coon, etc 318 

Wolf, Fox, Mink, Rac- 
coon 268 

German 280 



Hollow Log 336 

Plank 284 

Stone 320 

Hollow Log Sets — 

Mink, Marten and Weasel 264 
Mink, Marten, Weasel, 

Fisher 266 

Mink, Marten, Weasel, 

Fisher 380 

Horseshoe Nail .... 264 

Drag 238 

Fur Stretchers 242 

Raccoon Stretchers 338 

SHding Chain 362 

Sliding Pole 239 

Spring Pole 264 

Spring Pole 29S 

Spring Pole 300 

Spring Pole 340 

Spring Pole 342 

Spring Pole 360 

Miscellaneous Sets — 

Bear Pen 334 

Beef Hoist 324 



Illustrations of 
Traps, Snares, Trap Sets. Spring & Sliding Poles, Etc. 



-Continued. 



Combination Bait, Mirror 

& Trap 342 

Fish Hooi< & Steel Trap . 348 

Horseshoe Nail .... 264 

Horseshoe Nail .... 372 

Log Pen Trap for Bear . 332 

Pitfall for Wolf, Benr, etc. 322 

Screened Rooster Trap . 306 

Snare Sets — 

Mink, Marten. Raccoon . 264 

Raccoon, Wild Cat . . . 298 

Raccoon ^ lo 

Wolf, Fox 374 

Steel Trap Sets — 

Bear 334 

Beaver 348 

Fox 286 

Fox, Raccoon 308 

Fox, Wolf, Min'.:. Rac- 
coon 314 

Lvnx 264 

Mink, Marten & Fisher . 266 

Mink, Marten & Fisher . 275 

Mink, Fox, Wolf, Lynx . 300 

Mink, Fox, Weasel . . . 306 

Mink . 348 

Muskrat 348 

Muskrat .:.-.... 350 

Otter 360 



Otter 364 

Otter, Beaver, Mink . . 362 

Raccoon 286 

Raccoon 340 

Raccoon 342 

Raccoon, Mink .... 348 

Skunk 286 

Wild Cat, Raccoon . . . 298 

Wolf, Fox, Bear .... 322 

Wolf, Fox 324 

Traps — 

Newhouse .... 42210429 

Newhouse Clamp . . . 429 

Stop Thief 431 

Tree Tran 431 

Victor 430 

Water Sets- 
Barrel 264 

Box Trap for Mink, 

Muskrat 273 

Floating Box 35(3 

Floating Log 348 

Beaver 348 

Fox, Mink, Raccoon . . 30S 

Muskrat 350 

Otter 360 

Otter 364 

Raccoon 286 

Log and Fish Hook . . 348 



Illustrations of Game Birds and Animals. 

(Other than Fur Bearing Animals.) 



Buflfalo 90 

Caribou 225 

Deer 19 

Deer 49 

Deer 121 

Swimming 107 



Deer, Tracks 256 

Bull Moose 226 



Quail 

Prairie Chicken 



31 
67 



Turkey, Wild 94 

Rocky Mountain Goat .... 95 



Miscellaneous Illustrations. 



Andersch Bros. Place of 

Business 4 

Author 6 

Baling Raw Furs 210 

Bear Hunter 192 

Beaver Castoriums 132 

Beaver Cuttings 130 

Beaver Generative Organs . . 132 

Beaver Pelt 216 

Beaver Tail 216 

Cleaning Drum 148 

Climbing Bear 260 



Deer Tracks 256 

End of a Coyote Hunt .... 75 

Fox Hunter 176 

Fox Hunter 214 

Fox Hunters 410 

Fox Trapper 312 

Fyr Exhibit, Minn. State Fair . 220 

Fur Exhibit, Minn. State Fair . 222 

Mink Trapper 408 

Mountain Lion Hunter .... 208 

Muskrat House 252 

Muskrat Trapper 388 



Miscellaneous Illustrations— Continued. 



Nice Fur Collection ■Ttl^^ 

Prize Drawing of American 

Fur Skins 390 

Result of Knowing How to 

Hunt & Trap 246 

Scraping Skunk & Raccoon 

Skins 248 



Scene in Andersch Bros' Fur 

Room 

Skunk Farm, Diagram of . . 

Skunk Farm ; 

Skunk Farm 

Skunk Trapper 

We Were Seven 



190 
392 
394 
398 
388 
258 



Hunting and Trapping Fur Bearing Animals. 



Badger 203 

Bear 189 

Beaver 215 

Cat, Civet 201 

Ring Tail 

Wild 207 

Cougar 209 

Ermine 161 

Fisher 170 

Fox 175 

Jaguar 209 

Lynx 205 



Marten . . 
Mink . . . 
Mountain Lion 
Muskrat . . 
Opossum . . 
Otter . . . 

Sea 
Raccoon . . 
Skunk . . . 
Weasel . . 
Wolf & Coyote 
Wolverine 



167 
163 
209 
211 

201 
219 
224 
193 
195 
161 
179 
171 



Hunting and Trapping Fur Bearing Animals. 

(By America's Most Experienced Hunters and Trappeisj 



Bear 33210334-376 

Beaver 352 to 358 

Cat, Civet 296 to 297 

Wild .... 297 to 300-371 

Fisher 371-375 

Fox 277-304 to 320-371 

Lynx 300 to 303 

Marten 28410285 

Mink . . . 377-261 to 284-369-380 



Mountain Lion 303 to 304 

Muskrat .... 273-282-34510352 
Miscellaneous Articles . . 369 to 389 

Opossum 34310344 

Otter 35810368-379 

Raccoons ^75-335-343-369 

Skunk 285 to 295-377 

Weasel 261 

Wolf and Coyote . . 32010331-369 



Game Laws. 



U. S. Game Laws 418-419 

Open and Closed Seasons 416-417 

How To Obtain Game Laws 415 

Miscellaneous Hunting and Trapping. 

Additional Revenue for Trappers 255 to 257 

Deer Hunting • 257 

Fishing for Bait or Food 382 to 384 

Good Pointers 378 

How to Skin for Mounting 254 

Suffocating Mink & Skunk zn 

To Eradicate Skunk Odor 39i 

Trapper's Outfit 38410387 



Skinning and Stretching. 



Directions 241 to 254 

Stretching Raccoon Skins 337 

Sliding and Spring Poles, Drags, Etc. 



Sliding Poles 238-239-240-382 

Spring Poles , • . 238-240-379 

Drags and Clogs 238-239 

Tables and Statistics. 



Game Laws, Open and Closed Season 416 

Geographical Distribution of Fur-Bearing Animals 421 

How to Obtain Copies of State Game and Fish Laws 415 

London Fur Sales 422-423 

Production of Raw Furs in U. S. and Canada 420 

Showing What Skins Should Be Cased or Open 419 

Trappers Secrets. 



Notes About Trapping, Decoys, Bait, Scent, Poison, Natural and 

Artifical, Musk 227 to 23S 

Raising Fur Bearing Animals For Profit. 



Skunk Farm 393 to 402 

Mink 404*0409 

Opossum 402 to 404 

Fox 40910414 




AiNDERSCH Bros. 



DEALERS IN 



iTu*e7: HIDRS ^--- FllBS 

Canacfian ill l/UU^ Fine Raw IUIIU3 
WOOL, SHEEP PELTS, TALLOW, 

Beeswax, Deerskins, Ginseng, Seneca Root, etc. 



Hunters and Trappers will realize as much, if not more, 

for RAW FURS by shipping to us 

than to any other house. 

See Our "Banic References. 

Ship us your CATTLE and HORSE HIDES, also 

CALF SKINS. Write for our price 

list, shipping tags, etc. 

Outside market prices and prompt cash returns guaranteed. 

Andersch Bros., 

411-413-415=417=419 Main St. 
MINNEAPOLIS, MINNESOTA. 

BELOW FIND LIST OF OUR BANKERS. 

First National Bank Minneapolis, Minn. 

Northwestern National Bank Minneapolis, Minn. 

Security Bank of Minn Minneapolis, Minn. 

East Side State Bank Minneapolis, Minn. 

Second National Bank Minot, N. D. 

Continental National Bank Chicago, 111. 

Des Moines Savings Bank Des Moines, la. 

Merchants' Bank of Canada Winnipeg, Canada. 



NOV 19 1906 



Press of 



Kimball-Storer Co. ) 
Minneapolis, Minn. ) 




yi«fe*_^&^ -if^jt? 



